Sewing tech talk

[Cocximus]

I want to get in to sewing. I have a couple of things I want to make, fix and modify.

For example.
Machine sewing:
1. I want to make an exterior skins pocket out of leggings. What is the best pattern and thread to close them and possibly install a pull cord
2. Bicycle saddle bags out... leggings
3. Kite patching
Probably hand sewing:
4. I want to sew loops to my ski backpack to install the BD cirque pack lid.

What machine should I look for? Where should I start with learning technique for different types of material?

[riff]

Check out alpine threadworks on youtube, he makes custom stuff in Calgary; he put up a few tutorials this spring that are dang good.


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[gregL]

Not sure why you want to make anything out of leggings; there's a reason most commercial packs and saddlebags are made of some form of Cordura and/or heavy duty ripstop fabric, but once you have a sewing machine and know how to thread it, wind a bobbin, etc. go for it, there are no rules and all you can do is waste your time. For simple repairs, any mid-weight used machine will work fine, you can find decent ones at thrift shops for $20-25. If you really get into making stuff, especially with heavier fabrics, a more powerful home machine or a used commercial machine will make a difference, but you are talking real money unless you inherit one from your grandma or something.

As for thread, technical bags and such are usually best sewn with a heavier weight (I use Tex 40) 100% polyester thread which I get in large spools from a commercial sewing store, lighter Tex 25-ish 100% polyester thread like the readily available Gutermann is OK and available in many colors. You can always sew over a seam more than once if you suspect you'll need more strength than the thread allows.

[Cocximus]

Thanks for the info.

I like leggings because they are elastic so hopefully whatever I put in them stays tight to my pack or bike. They should also self close so I don't have to worry about forgetting to close the bag.

[gregL]

Thanks for the info.

I like leggings because they are elastic so hopefully whatever I put in them stays tight to my pack or bike. They should also self close so I don't have to worry about forgetting to close the bag.

Have fun, it's a great hobby. If you end up sewing through heavy layers (like two strands of webbing and a 500 denier Cordura bag) the home machine may be a little underpowered, but you can make it work by "driving" it manually (turning the pulley wheel by hand) as long as you use a thick enough needle.

[XXX-er]

Check out alpine threadworks on youtube, he makes custom stuff in Calgary; he put up a few tutorials this spring that are dang good.


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also a good guide IME

[cravenmorhead]

Keep an eye out for older machines with metal gears. A zig-zag feature is nice, but that's about as complicated as you need to get.

Heavy-duty thread is very helpful.

If you're looking for specialty fabrics, I like Seattle Fabrics. They have all sorts of high-tech options.

Note that stretchy materials can be kind of a pain in the ass to work with. I find it easier to sew on some velcro strips than it is to screw around with stretchy stuff. The least plausible aspect of superhero stories is when they sit down to sew their own costumes.

[Cabinfever]

Subscribed. Have and old machine in the basement i would like to bring back on line. Pics to follow

[cydwhit]

Note that stretchy materials can be kind of a pain in the ass to work with. I find it easier to sew on some velcro strips than it is to screw around with stretchy stuff. The least plausible aspect of superhero stories is when they sit down to sew their own costumes.

Can't stress this enough. The hardest job I've had was putting a beacon pocket on a Skimo suit. Heavy duty stretchy fabric is a living hell in my experience (which is far from extensive). Velcro, magnets, draw cords, zippers, and roll tops are all easier than stretchy material.

That said, I'm stoked for more sewing talk. I snagged a Singer Heavy Duty a few years ago to make frame bags for bikepacking, and since then I've found myself doing three or four sewing jobs a month with it. Great investment.

[gregL]

Heavy duty stretchy fabric is a living hell in my experience (which is far from extensive). Velcro, magnets, draw cords, zippers, and roll tops are all easier than stretchy material.

This. Any very stretchy material, or two fabrics that stretch at different rates can be a big problem. A walking foot machine (and sometimes silicone spray) helps but you are unlikely to find one for a bargain. Also, any time you work with a stretchy fabric you normally will want to bind the cut edges - this requires a serger (another machine) to do properly - you can fake it with a zig zagger set to very small stitches-per-inch but it's not quite the same. My dedicated serger was just under $1,000 and it requires an engineering degree to thread it . . .

[camlax]

I'll preface this with all of my sewing training being through the forest service so I may be a little indoctrinated to old technique and to the Juki coolaid.
- For the machine, We have an array of juki machines like the 5550 and 8700 and bar tackers and they work great for everything from patching pants to building backpacks. Complex maintenance can be a bitch though.
Like most tools, buy more tool than you think you need because you will absolutely grow into it once you catch the sewing bug!
- The Juki 5550 runs about 800 dollars with a good sewing table and would be a great end of life purchase.
- Don't worry too much about computerized stitch patterns. With some practice, you can sew very sturdy load bearing things without bar tacking or pre programmed patterns.

For learning, start with hems and box x patches, move next to pouches where you need to create folds and a void between the two fabrics. From there, you'll just take off!
Stretchy fabrics are a bitch! You'll end up pulling stitches all the time

If you're in Utah, go buy this right now and be set! https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/61747616

[climberevan]

I mostly burned up a nice Janome machine by using it for way heavier stuff than it was designed for. It now shares space with a REX RX-607Z, which is one of a whole host of Chinese machines that share a design. A nicer version is marketed by Sailrite (which is a great resource as well), but the parts are interchangeable.

The REX was under $300 and is a true walking foot design with a zigzag function. It can easily do 4 layers of 1000d Cordura or a couple of layers of webbing. I leave it threaded with thick ass upholstery thread and a fat needle.

I concur with the others that sewing lycra etc is some sort of dark art.

If I were in UT I would be on my way to get that Juki right now.

Happy sewing! It's one of those skills that will really pay off through your life.





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[gregL]

I'll preface this with all of my sewing training being through the forest service so I may be a little indoctrinated to old technique and to the Juki coolaid.
- For the machine, We have an array of juki machines like the 5550 and 8700 and bar tackers and they work great for everything from patching pants to building backpacks. Complex maintenance can be a bitch though.
Like most tools, buy more tool than you think you need because you will absolutely grow into it once you catch the sewing bug!
- The Juki 5550 runs about 800 dollars with a good sewing table and would be a great end of life purchase.
- Don't worry too much about computerized stitch patterns. With some practice, you can sew very sturdy load bearing things without bar tacking or pre programmed patterns.

For learning, start with hems and box x patches, move next to pouches where you need to create folds and a void between the two fabrics. From there, you'll just take off!
Stretchy fabrics are a bitch! You'll end up pulling stitches all the time

Juki 5550's are badass and very reasonably priced; my commercial machine is a classic Pfaff 463 but basically does the same thing. Keep in mind that these are commercial machines with a separate foot pedal and knee-operated brake, and are rather permanently installed in a table so not really all that "storable." They will, however, sew through just about anything and last pretty much forever.

[m2711c]

The least plausible aspect of superhero stories is when they sit down to sew their own costumes.

ha! reminds me of watching the guys fresh out of boot camp trying to sew their new seaman/airman/fireman patches straight on their uniforms... hours of hilarity.

[Meadow Skipper]

Juki 5550's are badass and very reasonably priced; my commercial machine is a classic Pfaff 463 but basically does the same thing. Keep in mind that these are commercial machines with a separate foot pedal and knee-operated brake, and are rather permanently installed in a table so not really all that "storable." They will, however, sew through just about anything and last pretty much forever.

Subscribed. I have a semi-heavy-duty Singer HD 110 that is adequate for most of the gear repair I do - cordura, light webbing, etc. But the above post reminded me of the sewing loft in the Alaska smokejumper base - think harnesses, jump suits, line gear and packs, heavy webbing cargo straps, etc. I don’t remember what brand of machines were there (30 years ago), but I saw a guy stitch together two pieces of 1/4 inch plywood with one, just to show it could be done. I was impressed.

[gregL]

. . . reminded me of the sewing loft in the Alaska smokejumper base - think harnesses, jump suits, line gear and packs, heavy webbing cargo straps, etc. I don’t remember what brand of machines were there (30 years ago), but I saw a guy stitch together two pieces of 1/4 inch plywood with one, just to show it could be done. I was impressed.

There you have it, real men know how to sew.

[cravenmorhead]

Lately I've been putting together some rafting projects.

[XXX-er]

its way easier to glue patches on

[Westcoaster]

Subcribed.