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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    839

    F150 truck issues

    Not sure if this is the place to post this or not but here goes.
    My 2000 f150 is shaking noticeably under acceleration and generally running poorly. When I release the accelerator and let it cruise, the shuddering stops.
    Itís had a history of chewing coils and I suspect itís another one of those but donít know for sure. It sat for 4 months, and has had 1 tank of gas since green as I never drive

    I pulled codes p0401 and p1406 off of the computer. One of the downstream hoses was indeed off. I suspect the throttle body is dirty AF.

    Any tips for doing this in my own. Is throttle body fairly easy for someone who doesnít know too much about trucks??
    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    165
    Sounds like the running issue is classic bad coil symptoms, my 02 5.4 kills the number 8 coil once a year at least. The codes seem unrelated to the running condition but could be. P0401 usually means a) egr is clogged or (less commonly) b)the wiring and electronics associated with the egr are bad. Your other code is for the dpfe, a sensor associated with the egr system. The sensor could be bad causing the egr code, but having the downstream hose disconnected also causes that code, so it was very likely that. I would clear the codes and keep driving it and see if they come back, or if you get a misfire code telling you which coil pack is bad.

    Throttle bodies are easy to clean but they have a coating that is supposed to prevent buildup and you want to use specific throttle body cleaner. Its like 6 bucks for a can. Spray it on a towel and wipe it out. I doubt it's your issue but can't hurt.

    A mechanic will be able to easily diagnose your issues and replace the parts that need replaced. Yeah paying for labor is a bitch when you can run a socket wrench, but a lot of times it ends up being cheaper when you're an amateurs like us dealing with an issue like this. Chasing these codes and replacing sensors, coils, egr valves etc. that may or may not need replaced can add up quick. I have learned that lesson the hard way replacing the whole upper fuel system in a car that had one faulty injector plug. A $60 mechanic bill had me running perfect when my $200 plus on injectors, a fuel pressure regulator, gaskets and o-rings did absolutely nothing. I did have reason to believe the injectors were bad because of the way it had been sitting but still, there is a difference between a parts changer and a mechanic.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Western MT
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeleBeaver View Post
    Sounds like the running issue is classic bad coil symptoms, my 02 5.4 kills the number 8 coil once a year at least. The codes seem unrelated to the running condition but could be. P0401 usually means a) egr is clogged or (less commonly) b)the wiring and electronics associated with the egr are bad. Your other code is for the dpfe, a sensor associated with the egr system. The sensor could be bad causing the egr code, but having the downstream hose disconnected also causes that code, so it was very likely that. I would clear the codes and keep driving it and see if they come back, or if you get a misfire code telling you which coil pack is bad.

    Throttle bodies are easy to clean but they have a coating that is supposed to prevent buildup and you want to use specific throttle body cleaner. Its like 6 bucks for a can. Spray it on a towel and wipe it out. I doubt it's your issue but can't hurt.

    A mechanic will be able to easily diagnose your issues and replace the parts that need replaced. Yeah paying for labor is a bitch when you can run a socket wrench, but a lot of times it ends up being cheaper when you're an amateurs like us dealing with an issue like this. Chasing these codes and replacing sensors, coils, egr valves etc. that may or may not need replaced can add up quick. I have learned that lesson the hard way replacing the whole upper fuel system in a car that had one faulty injector plug. A $60 mechanic bill had me running perfect when my $200 plus on injectors, a fuel pressure regulator, gaskets and o-rings did absolutely nothing. I did have reason to believe the injectors were bad because of the way it had been sitting but still, there is a difference between a parts changer and a mechanic.
    Wow, solid answer TeleBeaver!

    Do you tele the beav?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    13,801
    Quote Originally Posted by 3PinGrin View Post
    Wow, solid answer TeleBeaver!

    Do you tele the beav?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    BeaverBot: The Beav is in Avon, CO, Beaver Mountain is in Utard.

  5. #5
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    Western MT
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    Quote Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark View Post
    BeaverBot: The Beav is in Avon, CO, Beaver Mountain is in Utard.
    I was following cuz the mechanicals, but grew up skiing the real beav before your beav was built, so thought I'd ask

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    The beaver was my college mascot when I made this account. Have never skied either beav, but would take Utah over CO any day of the week

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    839
    Quote Originally Posted by TeleBeaver View Post
    Sounds like the running issue is classic bad coil symptoms, my 02 5.4 kills the number 8 coil once a year at least. The codes seem unrelated to the running condition but could be. P0401 usually means a) egr is clogged or (less commonly) b)the wiring and electronics associated with the egr are bad. Your other code is for the dpfe, a sensor associated with the egr system. The sensor could be bad causing the egr code, but having the downstream hose disconnected also causes that code, so it was very likely that. I would clear the codes and keep driving it and see if they come back, or if you get a misfire code telling you which coil pack is bad.

    Throttle bodies are easy to clean but they have a coating that is supposed to prevent buildup and you want to use specific throttle body cleaner. Its like 6 bucks for a can. Spray it on a towel and wipe it out. I doubt it's your issue but can't hurt.

    A mechanic will be able to easily diagnose your issues and replace the parts that need replaced. Yeah paying for labor is a bitch when you can run a socket wrench, but a lot of times it ends up being cheaper when you're an amateurs like us dealing with an issue like this. Chasing these codes and replacing sensors, coils, egr valves etc. that may or may not need replaced can add up quick. I have learned that lesson the hard way replacing the whole upper fuel system in a car that had one faulty injector plug. A $60 mechanic bill had me running perfect when my $200 plus on injectors, a fuel pressure regulator, gaskets and o-rings did absolutely nothing. I did have reason to believe the injectors were bad because of the way it had been sitting but still, there is a difference between a parts changer and a mechanic.
    Thanks for the detailed answer. I wish a mechanic bill would cost $60 bucks. Up here its 160 for them to just use the fucking machine to read the codes. So thats the absolute minimum it would cost, hence why i'm hoping to cross off some of the easier things on my own. I think the last coil I got changed cost 350ish.

    Is it worth just pulling all the coils and replacing them? Can you tell by looking at them they are bad? Like rusted etc?

    Thanks again

    I'm hoping I get a code with a misfire ASAP.

  8. #8
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    Mar 2018
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    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
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    1,253

    F150 truck issues

    Quote Originally Posted by TeleBeaver View Post
    The beaver was my college mascot when I made this account. Have never skied either beav, but would take Utah over CO any day of the week
    Babson or Oregon State? (Assuming the latter...)

  9. #9
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    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    My 5.4 went through lots of coils. It turned out there was a tiny leak of coolant out of the intake manifold. The coolant would build up in the plug well and fry coils.

  10. #10
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    Sep 2006
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    So how long has that gas been in there? Full or mostly empty? Couldn’t hurt to burn that out/ add alcohol/ dilute with new gas etc etc

  11. #11
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    Oct 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    So how long has that gas been in there? Full or mostly empty? Couldn’t hurt to burn that out/ add alcohol/ dilute with new gas etc etc
    Truck was pretty much empty when i pulled it out of storage, wasn't sure if I was going to make it to the gas station tbh.
    Then I put 2/3 or 3/4 of a tank in there on Sept 3rd, still on that same tank.
    Whats the plan with burning out bad gas? Let it run til totally empty? I did google but couldn't find any real info.
    Can i just pump some of the better quality low ethanol in there and cross my fingers?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    165
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. View Post
    Babson or Oregon State? (Assuming the latter...)
    University of Maine at Farmington, Beaver pride deep inside

    Quote Originally Posted by nortonwhis View Post
    Thanks for the detailed answer. I wish a mechanic bill would cost $60 bucks. Up here its 160 for them to just use the fucking machine to read the codes. So thats the absolute minimum it would cost, hence why i'm hoping to cross off some of the easier things on my own. I think the last coil I got changed cost 350ish.

    Is it worth just pulling all the coils and replacing them? Can you tell by looking at them they are bad? Like rusted etc?

    Thanks again

    I'm hoping I get a code with a misfire ASAP.
    Jesus $350 for a coil? They are $35-45 bucks at O'Reilly's and one 8mm bolt if you can wiggle it out from under the fuel rail. Get the ones with the lifetime warranty and when it pops just exchange it for a new one. O'Reilly's also will lend you their code reader if you don't have one.

    The plastic 5.4 intakes famously leak and typically on the coils which is why they eat them. I had my intake manifold replaced and that's a bill you don't want to see. The coils are sort of a bitch to get to because the fuel rail is directly above them, so removing all 8 is quite a job if you don't need to do it, the shop probably charges you the labor for removing/reinstalling the fuel rails regardless of if they have to do it, that's the only way to explain that ridiculous charge. Usually the coils will be rusted or wet looking if they are bad but sometimes not. It isn't a sure thing like a spark plug. Plus at $40 a pop its over $300 for the set. Maybe $250 if you find a cheap full set online. Making sure the gas is good if it has been sitting awhile is definitely a good idea. Adding some heet or stabil can't hurt but I say your best bet is to wait for a misfire code to give you more info. Don't throw money at it blindly.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    5,352
    Quote Originally Posted by nortonwhis View Post
    Truck was pretty much empty when i pulled it out of storage, wasn't sure if I was going to make it to the gas station tbh.
    Then I put 2/3 or 3/4 of a tank in there on Sept 3rd, still on that same tank.
    Whats the plan with burning out bad gas? Let it run til totally empty? I did google but couldn't find any real info.
    Can i just pump some of the better quality low ethanol in there and cross my fingers?
    A mostly empty tank collects more water condensation. Or so I’ve read anyway. Therefore smaller amount of gas is more contaminated. I’d dump some various products in there fuel injector cleaner etc and a tank of good gas if you’re having firing issues.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeleBeaver View Post
    one 8mm bolt
    7mm(!)

  15. #15
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    Empty tanks rust, then all that rust clogs your fuel filter.

    Not saying that’s the issue here, but parking your rig full of fuel is good preventative maintenance.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    Empty tanks rust, then all that rust clogs your fuel filter.

    Not saying thatís the issue here, but parking your rig full of fuel is good preventative maintenance.
    Aren't all current gas tanks plastic/ polyethylene/ whatever? Since sometime in the 1990s?

    Doesn't change moisture condensation issues, but I didn't think rust in the tank was an issue anymore.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    1,299
    My 2001 4.6 would eventually throw a code when a coil went bad. The code would tell you which one to replace.

    Some were pretty easy. Some were a total bitch.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Aren't all current gas tanks plastic/ polyethylene/ whatever? Since sometime in the 1990s?
    nope. Plenty of metal out there waiting to ruin your day.

    I write this as a man currently awaiting the arrival of a junkyard fuel tank for my wife's leaking, rusted-through 2012 hyundai tank.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Tortoise View Post
    My 2001 4.6 would eventually throw a code when a coil went bad. The code would tell you which one to replace.

    Some were pretty easy. Some were a total bitch.
    I had to buy a few extra extensions and whatnot for those stupid fucking fucks. If I could remember what they were exactly, I'd tell you, but I think once you're in there scraping knuckles it will become apparent. I'll say this, I remember how much easier it was with the right tools, I felt so dumb for having strugglebussed it so long.

  20. #20
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    Oct 2010
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    Thanks for all the tips.
    Im going to start with the fuel and see how I go after that.

  21. #21
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    Nov 2006
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    My 5.4 melted the #8 spark plug and it drove EXACTLY like you described. Fine while coasting and shuddering like a bronco when pressing accelerator. Mechanic said it was common for #8 to melt due to proximity to intake manifold. It would get too hot and eventually fail. Replaced (8) plugs and ran like a purring kitten after that.

    Check your spark plugs before you tear too much apart. I think #8 and #6 are the hard ones to get to.

  22. #22
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    Oct 2010
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    839
    Quote Originally Posted by SorryBro View Post
    My 5.4 melted the #8 spark plug and it drove EXACTLY like you described. Fine while coasting and shuddering like a bronco when pressing accelerator. Mechanic said it was common for #8 to melt due to proximity to intake manifold. It would get too hot and eventually fail. Replaced (8) plugs and ran like a purring kitten after that.

    Check your spark plugs before you tear too much apart. I think #8 and #6 are the hard ones to get to.
    Do you remember if you were getting a check engine light?

  23. #23
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    Feb 2010
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    I had an F150 with the 5.4 V8 for a hot minute. I stupidly washed the engine and in doing so, caused a slow death of most of my coils. The failure modes were due to water in the head socket, around the coil.

    Replace them based on the codes thrown, provided you're getting a CEL, which isn't always the case, but it will throw a code eventually. On the replacement, there are two lines of thought here; go with OEM FoMoCo parts (what I did and those that regularly wrench on these engines recommend) or the Chinesium knock-offs that will fail faster and more often. Sure, you can get a warranty on the parts, but do you want to be making frequent trips to the parts store and popping those coils out on the regular?

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    839
    Alright, did a bit more distance in the truck over the weekend and got it to spit out a misfire code on cylinder 3. Going to try and replace my self and see how it goes...

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    839
    Success.
    Bought an accel one for $49 and put it in. Engine light is off and the shuddering is gone.
    Thanks for all the advice, probably would have put it into the shop to fix without the advice, so you guys saved me a bunch of $$$
    old coil. definitely doesn't look good.
    Click image for larger version. 

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