TR - San Juans for July 2020

[evdog]

I got a few days off at the end of July and seeing the forecast clear up in SW CO after a week of storms, I decided to go for it and hit the high country.

Solo trip, and not on the menu would be meetups with friends in the area.


I got out of work my usual couple hours later than hoped but made good time across AZ. Got sleepy just north of Flagstaff so I pulled onto a random dirt road and napped for a couple hours. I woke up at one point and realized if I started driving again I'd be able to hit Monument Valley right at sunrise. Started seeing rock formations just as the skies were getting light, then this view as I passed the closed Tribal Park.




No one else around at this classic viewpoint




Finished the drive and made it to Cortez for breakfast. Since it was the closest ride on my list I decided to hit up Calico first. Dropped my moto off at the Priest Gulch TH and headed north to Cross Mountain TH. I'd never ridden the Groundhog Stock Trail before but it looked like a good addition to the Calico ride. Seems like it is one of the few trails in the area that is rolling and doesn't involve a 2-3k climb.

Nice views after the initial 600ft climb




Next onto Calico. Lots of work done on the climb from the north trailhead. New moto boardwalks, raised sections to avoid mud and saw some re-routes of steep sections that have been flagged out. Ran into a couple pairs of hikers and was passed by one moto here




After the tough climb there is a bit of awesome singletrack before the next climb starts




Sweet!




Some dark clouds to the south




Last time here I noticed there was a steep trail going up the prominent ridge from a couple pics back. This time I decided to check it out. It's actually a signed non-motorized trail and open to bikes. The climb up was all hike a bike, but worth it for the views and the ridge top singletrack




Looking south-southwest, the trail following the top of the ridge the whole way




Riding was slow as the trail rut was full of loose rock




Some footage of the descent from here on. Sorry it's a bit choppy




Lotsa flowers out. I've always hit SW CO in the fall, checking out the flowers was definitely motivation for doing this trip in July. Gotta climb up towards that peak....




First trail user I'd seen in hours.... and getting toward 6pm and not quite at the Calico/Priest Gulch turnoff yet. Two ways to end the ride are continue on Calico or turn onto Priest Gulch. Both end at the same trailhead. Priest drops into a drainage while Calico stays high and then drops steeply down at the end. Trailforks reports from June warned of hundreds of trees down on lower Calico from a June storm. The local shop was "pretty sure" the moto guys had cut them out. Rather than take a chance I decided to re-visit Priest. I'd climbed up that trail years ago it seemed to remember thinking it would be a fun descent.




Can't say my memory of Priest was accurate. Maybe it's because all the short climbs I had to do on the descent made the climb more bearable? Speaking of that, saw a bear on Priest which was pretty cool. First one I think I've seen in CO




For an 8-mile descent with 3,700 drop it took forever. It wasn't in great shape due to erosion ruts, a few downed trees and was generally more gnarly in nature than Calico. Lower down there was fresh trail work done so hopefully that will continue all the way up. Got a bit jungle-like at the bottom. Finished without lights, but just barely. Then ran a gauntlet of suicidal deer on the shuttle retrieval, which was especially fun on the moto with its not so bright headlight.

Great day, Calico is one of my favorite trails in CO. 26mi, +4,200/-6,500ft

[The SnowShow]

What’s this? A TR?
Looked awesome!

[Danno]

Nice. Never even heard of Calico.

[ASmileyFace]

Just rode Scotch/Salt Creek on the other side of Rico a few days ago... now I'm wishing I had seen this TR first. I've heard of Priest Gulch, but not Calico before, now I'm thinking this will be the ride I try and do this weekend! Awesome stuff!

[evdog]

Just rode Scotch/Salt Creek on the other side of Rico a few days ago... now I'm wishing I had seen this TR first. I've heard of Priest Gulch, but not Calico before, now I'm thinking this will be the ride I try and do this weekend! Awesome stuff!

Do it! N to S. And finish on Calico, not Priest. Let us know about the downed tree situation

Lots of people haven't heard of Calico as its a moto trail. It's a bit more raw but I think it's as good or better than the CT.

[evdog]

Day 2

I'd camped halfway between Rico and Ophir. The other rides I wanted to do were mostly in Silverton and Durango and rather than drive the long way around on pavement I wanted to check out Ophir Pass. I missed the turnoff for Ophir and decided to check out Alta Lakes first, since I was pretty close. I'd originally wanted to try and camp there but didn't want to show up in the dark in case as I expected it would be packed given the number of people camped along Hwy 145. No surprise, it was slammed and this was only Thursday. Nice place to have breakfast, though.

Up next was Ophir Pass. The sign should read beware of side-by-sides, not wildlife.




Views open up before you've climbed up very far




Thankfully no traffic coming down. You can see a speck in the distance where a jeep is waiting for me to get to the top. I hadn't noticed him yet. Hope he didn't mind me stopping a couple times for pics




Looking back down. Just as this 4runner and I got to the top a whole pack of side by sides came barreling down the road and continued past us rather than wait for the couple other vehicles coming up. Douchebags always have the right of way, after all.




The only tough spot was just below the pass where there were a few step ups. I headed down into Silverton and had a pizza at Avalanche Brewing. The proportion of people wearing masks even walking around town was quite impressive considering the number of texas licence plates everywhere.




It was getting on towards 2pm so I decided I better get going or I'd be finishing today's ride in the dark. I packed my light just in case, forgetting that I'd yet to transfer the mount over to my new helmet. Well, I can always duct tape it on if need be.

I'd have an 8-mile road pedal to get to the start. I didn't realize this road was part of the Alpine loop and soon regretted not shuttling it as I was continually getting dusted by packs of jeeps and side by sides who lacked the social awareness to slow down when passing.




There were a couple groups of hikers arriving back at their vehicles as I rolled in to Velocity Basin. There's a trail briefly at the bottom here but it soon disappears.




Nice little lake!




I'd read this trail isn't recognized by BLM and bikes aren't allowed off designated trails, so this was a true hike a bike




And it was steeep..... On the bright side this made the climb go more quickly




After hitting the ridge top you're back on singletrack. Faint at first, then improving.




Looking back down the ridge




13,000ft just ahead. One more push to get there!




Quick rest at the top




Some rugged terrain to the west




Checked the elevation and noticed the time. I had just half an hour til sunset




The moon making an appearance. This is obviously zoomed way in, but it did look huge as it crested over this ridgeline.




The upper part of the descent was a game of connect the dots between cairns. The trail alternated between obvious, faint, and non-existent




It wasn't fast riding due to the navigation and narrow, loose trail. But it was almost downhill. Views weren't bad either. Nice waterfall about half way down




As the trail descended the tread became more established. The trail also became steeper and more rocky. Had to stop a number of times to rest my hands. Brakes were squealing. There are a number of tight switchbacks at the bottom with loose trail surface, and some steep scree sections that I just had to hold on and try to stay upright. The last 5-600ft was pretty tough. Trying not to die within sight of the bottom! Made it down just after sunset. Perfect timing. By the time I was changed and bike loaded all the restaurants were closed. Probably for the best!

15mi, +/-3,700ft

Here is most of the descent. Despite the steep hike a bike I would do this one again, maybe shuttle the road section and leave more time to do some hiking around the upper ridgelines. Found a nice campsite just north of town and crashed out.

[The SnowShow]

Damn, that’s some good alpine riding! Keep ‘em coming.

[ZomblibulaX]

Solid work, that climb’s no joke.

D
I'd read this trail isn't recognized by BLM and bikes aren't allowed off designated trails, so this was a true hike a bike

Glad you mentioned this, for anyone else interested:
Not only are bikes not allowed off designated trails above the lake, they’re not technically allowed on the ground. That means if you’re coming from the Velocity side, you’re shouldering your bike, don’t even push it. silvertonsingletracksociety.org The owner of Avalanche brewing does a ton of work up there, he’s a great resource if you’re in the area.

[Dantheman]

Fuck me. Evdog is my spirit animal.

[Norseman]

outstanding.

[BobbyBill]

Kudos! Beautiful pics; thanks for sharing.

[Joey Joe Joe Junior Shabadoo]

Fuck me. Evdog is my spirit animal.

x2. That alpine riding is just so good.


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[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Evdog just continuing to crush it over and over again.

[evdog]

Day 3

Ride 1

Another day, another checkmark on the old to-do list that would probably require a lot of hiking. This one's not a big secret but I'm not going to name names. If you know, you know.




I started around 10:30 which put me behind most of the uphill hiker traffic. Didn't see many people til I got to about this spot and started meeting people one their way back down.




Pretty sure this was Benny. He identified himself as a local and told me I should ditch my bike here and hike the rest of the way. "This landscape is very fragile!" Umm, you know this trail is open to bikes right? And dirt bikes? "I've been coming here for 30 years. There are too many people coming up here now. This place used to be pristine!" Well at least it wasn't just me....

I stopped for a snack and let him get ahead. Never saw him again.




Columbines were out




Acceptable views




After cresting the pass the hike a bike was over. Time to pedal!




Looks pristine to me. But what do I know.




I was welcomed by dark clouds and distant thunder. That plus the wind and dropping temps thwarted my plan for a swim at 12,000ft.




Too bad, I was also planning to ditch the bike as the man said, and do some exploring around the basin. As the thunder grew closer it was time to get out of there and retreat back to blue skies.




Parting shot. The hikers had all departed earlier, only saw a handful on the descent. Everyone except Scrooge McGoo was cool and just stoked to be out in such a beautiful place. 8mi, +/-2450ft





Ride 2


Felt good enough and had a few hours for a second ride so I looked at options. Decided on a route across Engineer Mtn and down Engine Creek trail. Dropped the MTB off at Coal Bank Pass on the way by, then parked the truck at bottom of Engineer Mtn, and rode the moto back up.

I was having a much better day than this guy was:




Pass Creek trail is only 1,000ft gain in a couple miles. Easy, except for the e-biker who was ahead of me and turned around half way up. Battery ran out of juice?




Saw the best display of flowers of the trip so far getting closer to Engineer Mtn Trail




Engineer Mtn




Incredible golden hour light. Had a respectable 6 or 8 pt buck sprint down the hill in front of me at one point.






No pics down Engine Creek Trail. Took some footage instead. Fun trail, but not as good as some of the other descents nearby. Pretty raw, and a few downed trees.




Cascade Falls




Time to turn on the lights




The climb up Coal Pass is a good easy way to access some of the other trails at Engineer Mtn. But I still like the CT from Molas best, even if it is more work.

Everything in Silverton would be closed again so I fired up the stove when I got back to the pass.

13mi, +1,600/-3,400

[rip]

Nice work! ��

[406]

Looks like some nice rides.

[rippling over canyons]

Nice pics Evdog. Keep them coming. I might be heading out there in a couple of weeks if the smoke clears up. I would have asked to speak to Benny's manager..haha!

[Danno]

Good stuff, that place is home in my heart, love seeing TRs from there.

[evdog]

Day 4

Went to pull into my sweet little campsite from the day before and found some douchebag with a camaro a side by side parked there. So I had to find another spot. 1st world problems. It was a bit puzzling how he happened to get there with both vehicles. The staple Texan CO rig is an unnecessarily large pickup truck towing an unnecessarily large 5th wheel trailer with side by side towed behind that or trailered behind a separate unnecessarily large rig. But the spot wasn't big enough for such excess. Maybe they left the motorcade parked down in town?


Dawn over Silverton.




This photo epitomizes everything that is wrong in the world. Or at least this part of Colorado





Ride 1


I'd decided if I could get my butt in gear I'd be able to do a couple decent rides today. There was a vague line I'd been staring at on satellite imagery that needed investigating.




Step 1 was to get high.




Step 2 was to ride




Some great views






And another alpine lake




No one at this one, too remote. Well, except for this crowd who wouldn't keep quiet. So inconsiderate!




Cool exploration. 7.5 mi, +/- 1,500





Ride 2


Headed north of town as I wanted to check out the Rainbow trail. It is short, but looked really cool




The fun and cool stuff:





The trail was 3 miles long, mostly old roadbed or railroad grade above the highway. The last 1/2 mile was the best with the cool shale section and some fun bermed turns after that. I actually rode back up and looped that part again.




Took a break for lunch and to contemplate further actions. I had time for one more ride before I had to head south. Turned out mother nature made the decision for me as dark clouds quickly appeared and I got dumped on.




It was looking pretty bleak everywhere up high so I headed down to Durango. Things were only marginally better there, dark clouds still hanging over all the mountains. Could have been worse though. At least I wasn't riding in the back of a pickup truck. That look says he knows I was laughing at him.




No dice in CO, so I headed south. With the price of gas it's like they were paying me to visit!





Ride 3


A couple hours driving through the rez brought me to Gallup. Holy hell those roads were bad, with the state highway being the worst. I got air a couple times.


Stopped in at the High Desert Trail System for a quick ride. Lots of wildlife to greet me




Interesting rock formations as I started my climb




The wildlife seemed habituated to humans. These bunnies let me get right up close and didn't run away




Was into the golden hour pretty quickly




Cool trail signs at the intersections. There were lots of them and I got turned around a couple times




Got to the back end of the ride just before sunset and chased an amazing sunset most of the way back. Finally had to turn the headlight on. I rode right past this turnoff without even seeing it.




Missing that turn was a good thing, as I saw a light flashing a ways off and heard a call for help. An older lady I'd seen earlier had missed this turn too and she couldn't find her way off the mesa top in the dark. Made my way over to her and showed her where the trail dropped down. She'd been looking for a while and her husband was heading over to help her when I found her. I walked back with her until her husband showed up, half way back to the trailhead. Had to make sure she wasn't eaten by the local mtn lion, of course




Got back to the truck and cleaned up. Fun trail system, not a lot of elevation so it was very fast riding. 2 hrs moving time, 13mi, +/-1,000ft. Felt like a superhero at only 6,000ft.


Wasn't sure what I was going to do next. I checked the forecast which showed high % of thunderstorms in the area through early morning. This was confirmed by numerous flashes of lightning to the south and to the north. Again mother nature made the decision for me, and I headed out.

[alpinevibes]

Full of win


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[ASmileyFace]

This is such a high quality TR. Bravo evdog.

And yeah the Rzr side by side things are the worst.

[BoulderBreak]

Excellent stoke! Thanks for sharing this, makes me really stoked to go on a San Juans riding trip one day.

[NT]

Rad trip report as always! I rode calico in late July this year- the moto crew was in the middle of clearing all the logs as I came through so should be all clear now. Love that trail.

[Dromond]

I've only been to Silverton in the winter to it is cool to see it in the in summer!

[evdog]

Day 5

I'd originally hoped to camp nearby and get in a ride in the Zuni Mountains. But with storms forecast through 3-4am I decided to head west into AZ and check out another area on my list. It was only 10pm and just a couple hours drive to Show Low and Pinetop Lakeside.

Found a campsite on a random forest road around 1am, had a beer and got to sleep. It was warm overnight, too warm for the sleeping bag I'd brought for CO so I just laid on top of it on inside the bivy. I doubt it got below 65 and was headed for low 90s even at 7,000+ ft, so I was up early.


Ride 1

The trailhead for today's ride was just a few miles away. There was already 1 hiker, one horse rider and 1 biker there as I arrived around 7. Planned was a ~13mi loop of a few trails that seemed pretty popular.

I started at the Panorama TH and hit the Flume connector first. It wasn't really a flume. TF description said mostly jeep road but I remember mostly singletrack. Turned R onto Timber Mesa.




Timber Mesa is a loop, the west half being rocky and the east half being more flowy and buff. After all the hike a bike I was happy to ride the easier half.




There were a few rocky spots to keep it interesting




But for the most part it was a really nice pedal.




Impressive alligator juniper




I turned onto the Sawmill Connector which was less travelled and more raw, and then onto Panorama which definitely sees more use. Getting close to the end here the views opened up. I came across a few other bikers and a couple groups of horses. Everyone was cool and stoked to be out.




Ride 2

It was still early when I finished but I had a beer before they warmed up as ice was all melted. Then headed a bit south to check out the Los Burros loop. Parked near the SW corner of the loop and got going, CCW. It started out buff, and fast.




Fern forest




Aspens complemented the ferns perfectly




Hard to beat blue sky and green leaves




The route was easy to follow with frequent White Mountains Trail Systems markers




There were a handful of 3-400ft climbs but the grades were mellow and they went fast. At one point I pulled over for a couple oncoming riders who also tried to pull over saying I had the right of way, heading uphill. You call this a climb?




Made it back to the truck in just over 2 hrs. Not bad for a 13mi loop. Had a quick shower with melted cooler water and remains of my water container then headed out.


A couple crashes on Hwy 260 toward Payson sent me down Hwy 60 / 77 towards Globe. That was cool, I've never driven that way down to Globe before. The scenery was pretty rad, actually. Salt River canyons:






The climb out was kinda rough, lots of slow traffic and not a ton of places to pass. Brah in the dodge had to show everyone what a badass he is here, rolling coal. Note the two big rigs up ahead.




Some fodder for the Shit that annoys you thread: when the semi behind decides he has to pass the one ahead of him rather than let the massive line of cars behind him go by. The aggro dodge driver is right behind him, not getting by. I took advantage of another straightaway to pass then all. I don't think anyone else made it past them as there were no more passing lanes and I saw no one else behind me the next 20 miles into Globe. Brutal.




I usually dread driving into the sunset but smoke from a fire near LA dimmed the lights. Pretty relaxing drive the rest of the way.




The end