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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Sram Code R sticky lever

    On hot days when my bike is in the sun, my new style code's struggle to rebound to their normal position. Just the lever, I dont think the brake stays on.
    I know this is an issue on Guides, but never heard of it on Codes. Anyone have any advice?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    I had to warranty some Code RSCs that did that. SRAM sent the wrong model out for replacement for just the one brake with the issue, then when the shop corrected them, they sent a new complete set out

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    299
    These days my solution to any SRAM/Avid brake issues is to throw them away and buy Shimano SLX/XT. I swear I'm cursed when it comes to their products but unfortunately alot of bikes spec them by default.

  4. #4
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    Oct 2010
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    Spoke to the shop. They said warranty but need to send away for 2 weeks mid summer...

  5. #5
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    These days my solution to any SRAM/Avid brake issues is to throw them away and buy Shimano SLX/XT. I swear I'm cursed when it comes to their products but unfortunately alot of bikes spec them by default.
    Next time you're throwing away some srams, send them my way. I'll let you know next time I'm throwing away some shimanos (I fucking hate those things).

  6. #6
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    Oct 2010
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    Spoke to the shop. They said warranty but need to send away for 2 weeks mid summer...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Next time you're throwing away some srams, send them my way. I'll let you know next time I'm throwing away some shimanos (I fucking hate those things).
    Have you tried the latest 4pots?
    Absolutely flawless for me, going on two years.
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Have you tried the latest 4pots?
    Absolutely flawless for me, going on two years.
    I've ridden them for a bit. Every single SLX and XT brake I've used has a wandering lever point, which I find to be completely terrifying. They don't all have it all the time, but at some point in my ownership of the brakes, one or both levers starts wandering. Bleeding fixes it temporarily, but it always comes back.

    Never had an issue with Saints or Zees. Haven't spent enough time on XTR's to form meaningful conclusions.

    Aside from the wandering bite point, the brakes are fine.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Whistler
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    418
    Could get the lever rebuild kit and do it yourself. On the 'R' lever the trickiest part is removing and re installing the circlip, circlip pliers help, tricky with a pick

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I've ridden them for a bit. Every single SLX and XT brake I've used has a wandering lever point, which I find to be completely terrifying. They don't all have it all the time, but at some point in my ownership of the brakes, one or both levers starts wandering. Bleeding fixes it temporarily, but it always comes back.

    Never had an issue with Saints or Zees. Haven't spent enough time on XTR's to form meaningful conclusions.

    Aside from the wandering bite point, the brakes are fine.
    You pretty sure your calipers are centered on the rotor perfectly? Thatís the number one cause for the wandering bite point, followed closely by a sticky piston.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    You pretty sure your calipers are centered on the rotor perfectly? Thatís the number one cause for the wandering bite point, followed closely by a sticky piston.
    I'm fairly confident that it's the extraordinarily well documented issue of air getting sucked into the line.

    But I don't need to continue to derail this thread with discussion of why I think shimanos suck.

  12. #12
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    Feb 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin267 View Post
    Could get the lever rebuild kit and do it yourself. On the 'R' lever the trickiest part is removing and re installing the circlip, circlip pliers help, tricky with a pick
    You can even get the current piston out and slightly sand sown/smooth down the oversized bit just a touch. Have done that on several Guides. All working beautifully now.

    And yeah, getting that circlip out is a PITA even with clip pliers.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    160
    I just did this repair (put in the kit and bled) on my 3 year old RSs. Having the right circlip pliers makes all the difference. I think the latest version SRAM brakes don't have that circlip anymore. You now need a special tool. Pathetic that it's still happening.

  14. #14
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    Oct 2002
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    I think I'm too late warranty my Guides, and am realistic that it'll never happen anyway. Do I just need the piston kit?

    Edit: Shit, I read piston and went straight to calipers. So this is what I need?

    https://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-Guide...-R-Lever-Kit-2
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  15. #15
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    I think I'm too late warranty my Guides, and am realistic that it'll never happen anyway. Do I just need the piston kit?

    https://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-Guide...ake-Piston-Kit
    Pretty sure it's the master cylinder that's the problem so it's the lever internals you need. I think the kit you linked is the caliper pistons. My older Codes are getting sticky, not psyched about doing this. They've got a lot of hard miles on them though and aren't dysfunctional by a long shot yet.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow... flying through the air.

  16. #16
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    Oct 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by beaterdit View Post
    Pretty sure it's the master cylinder that's the problem so it's the lever internals you need. My older Codes are getting sticky, not psyched about doing this. They've got a lot of hard miles on them though and aren't dysfunctional by a long shot yet.
    Yep, thanks, realized my mistake. I've been happy with the Guides that came on my MT. The stickiness only happens a couple times a season. Otherwise, they've been surprisingly solid.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  17. #17
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    Feb 2012
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    My guides worked fine for thousands of miles and then last year started sticking in the heat. So I feel like part of the problem is swelling of the seals or MC piston itself. Rebuilding the lever was pretty straightforward and it works like new again. What made the project expensive was the new pads and rotor to go along with it.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    160
    There are a bunch of YouTubes on how to do this. My fave is this Chinese guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezR0SbEpf8w. Issue is with the plastic "piston". Might as well throw the rest of the kit in while you're at it. It's a pretty easy project if you have the basic skills and tools (e.g., small internal circlip pliers) and you have a bleed kit. It's worth getting the bleed kit so you can do it once per season without having to take your bike to the shop. Around here, the Covid induced wait times for major service are nearing a month out.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    160
    There are a bunch of YouTubes on how to do this. My fave is this Chinese guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezR0SbEpf8w. Issue is with the plastic "piston". Might as well throw the rest of the kit in while you're at it. It's a pretty easy project if you have the basic skills and tools (e.g., small internal circlip pliers) and you have a bleed kit. It's worth getting the bleed kit so you can do it once per season without having to take your bike to the shop. Around here, the Covid induced wait times for major service are nearing a month out.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    North Vancouver/Whistler
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    Someone gave me a set of Level brakes with fuxored pistons so I'm going to give it a shot. Here's the PDF for the fix https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....al_english.pdf

  21. #21
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    Nov 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wapow View Post
    I just did this repair (put in the kit and bled) on my 3 year old RSs. Having the right circlip pliers makes all the difference. I think the latest version SRAM brakes don't have that circlip anymore. You now need a special tool. Pathetic that it's still happening.
    Ultimates, RSC ones need a special tool that conviently comes with the rebuild kit and its pretty easy.

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