Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 45
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,332

    How to fill crack in cutting board?

    Since it' a little slow around here, and...weirder questions have been posted in Tech Talk before.

    I've been using the same, bamboo cutting boards for like 15 years, and they've been flawless. Only thing: they have no juice groove, so when I cut a piece of meat on them, it spill off the sides, onto the countertop

    So I finally got around to buying one with a gutter around the edge. Also bamboo, but constructed like a micro-lam: many, 1/8" inch pieces glued together. And after just 6 months, it has developed a crack in the middle, clear from one side through to the other (dry Colorado air, vs wherever in China, I suppose). So the juice gutter is moot, as now juice just leaks through the crack and gets all over the counter.

    Any idea what I can use to fill/seal the crack? Obviously has to be food-safe, and durable.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    In before XXXer can suggest aquaseal



    I don't have a specific recommendation for one, but there are plenty of food grade two part epoxies out there. I'd try one of those and clamp the shit out of it to close the gap as best you can.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    [a] Van [down by the river]
    Posts
    1,511
    hahaha. was thinking the exact same thing re: Aquaseal.

    Could also think about sanding the board a bit, mixing the dust with woodglue, then giv'er shit. I'd be curious on toxicity of glue once it's hardened for really any glue.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Wood glue sucks at filling gaps. If you can clamp the parts together well, it's bomber, but I don't think it's a great call in this case.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1,901
    I've been using the hot glue gun to repair prit near everything these days...would that work? The glue adhesion/bond is quite tenacious on a variety of substances I've used it on. Easy to target little gaps and tight spaces with relatively pin point precision. Speed up the dry/cure/cooling/hardening time by putting some parchment paper over the glue and laying a ziplock bag of snow or crushed ice over the area.
    Master of mediocrity.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Tahoe
    Posts
    250
    I have used g-flex two part epoxy and clamp for butcherblock counters without issue

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,485
    epoxy.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    on the banks of Fish Creek
    Posts
    7,556
    best shit ever for filling cracks...



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,978

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,332
    Don't think plastic wood would withstand repeated washings. And I question whether it's food-safe.

    Epoxy sounds like the way to go, though I'm not thrilled about the BPA content (but it'd be a tiny bit of surface area)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    9,924
    Pull old board out of land fill, cut juice groove with router, toss new piece of crap.

    Or fill new crack with toothpaste, but use no more than 2x/day, cuz the fluoride'll kill ya.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    3,083
    I've got some of this; it seems to do the trick for filling. Non toxic and FDA approved for "indirect food contact" (ie. not to be eaten or put into food, but allowed to make contact)

    http://www.titebond.com/product/glue...c-b53970f736af

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,332
    Quote Originally Posted by PB View Post
    ...cut juice groove with router, toss new piece of crap.
    Not a bad piece of thinking, right there! Sounds like a plan (I've still got the old ones).

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,400
    Well now that’s settled, this thread title is primed up for a padded room parody.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,332
    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    Well now that’s settled, this thread title is primed up for a padded room parody.
    Hopefully it will not involve ass-crack and caulk

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    1,052
    Quote Originally Posted by PB View Post
    Pull old board out of land fill, cut juice groove with router, toss new piece of crap.

    Or fill new crack with toothpaste, but use no more than 2x/day, cuz the fluoride'll kill ya.
    +1 and you may get to buy a new router...

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,332
    Quote Originally Posted by scmartin69 View Post
    +1 and you may get to buy a new router...

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Already gots

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Fraggle Rock, CO
    Posts
    7,776
    Titebond3 mixed 50/50 with sawdust has worked for me
    Brandine: Now Cletus, if I catch you with pig lipstick on your collar one more time you ain't gonna be allowed to sleep in the barn no more!
    Cletus: Duly noted.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,040
    I don't know what you would use that would permanently fix a cracked wooden cutting board becuz it needs to be food safe and able to handle water and abrasion of cutting

    SO i would just cut it in half and call it 2 cutting boards cuz i like multiple cutting boards, I have at least 4 of the nylon or plastic type, I can cut stuff an leave it on the board till I thro it in the pan and for clean up just thro them in the DW
    Last edited by XXX-er; 04-17-2020 at 08:55 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    G Falls
    Posts
    400
    Superglue

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by alpinevibes View Post
    I've got some of this; it seems to do the trick for filling. Non toxic and FDA approved for "indirect food contact" (ie. not to be eaten or put into food, but allowed to make contact)

    http://www.titebond.com/product/glue...c-b53970f736af
    This is the right advice. Bamboo isn't actually wood, it's a grass. Titebond + clamps should do the trick. Scrape the excess glue with a paint scraper rather than sanding it and you'll loose less material and waste less sand paper.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,243
    Titebond and clamps won't hold. The wood cracked because of internal stresses--just drying out wouldn't crack it because there's nothing in a cutting board restraining movement. If you try to clamp it the stresses will still be there and pull it apart again. Glue+sawdust won't hold up in this application. The best way to fill would be with thickened, colored epoxy and no clamping. But I wouldn't try to fill it with anything permanent. Dried glue is hard--considerably harder than wood. If you try to fix it with any glue you'll be dulling your knives.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,478
    HDPE Cutting Boards never crack, but the go missing when I need a piece of plastic.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,757
    Molten lead? It's soft and won't dull knives.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,172
    The Angry Whelk would fill that crack with hot material. And then you are drown.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •