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  1. #1151
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Winthrop, WA.
    Posts
    1,237
    Quote Originally Posted by mtbcat View Post
    is there a free ride spacer for helio 180 no brake
    and do i need it ?
    YES, same question? Also, is there a way to add the freeride spacer without punching another hole in the skis?

  2. #1152
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    2,146
    I wonder how we all survived for the last 20 years without freeride spacers.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  3. #1153
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Winthrop, WA.
    Posts
    1,237
    I suppose we mostly survived but a fair number of dynafit heels did not. Personally I'm all for stronger turn finishes from the tail of my tour skis, especially the fat ones. If a simple little gizmo like a freeride spacer does that for me, count me in.

  4. #1154
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,819
    I'm looking for binding freedom screws for my Moment Voyagers, does anyone know what I need? I would measure them but it's on my dd touring ski at the moment and I don't really want to pull them without having insert supplies ready to go. Paging Spyderjon maybe?

  5. #1155
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,387

    Official ATK Binding Thread

    The free ride spacer concept is definitely worth it for me. Better feedback, better skiing. I put a 2mm layer of ptex under my helio 180ís heels, ground material off the spacer and screwed it on there. Iíd say itís tough to avoid adding a hole in the ski.


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  6. #1156
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Winthrop, WA.
    Posts
    1,237
    riff, I'd really like to see your setup. Will be down at Mission sometime in the next week. As it happens I was specifically thinking about spacers for my helio 180's

  7. #1157
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,249
    Quote Originally Posted by thejongiest View Post
    I'm looking for binding freedom screws for my Moment Voyagers, does anyone know what I need? I would measure them but it's on my dd touring ski at the moment and I don't really want to pull them without having insert supplies ready to go. Paging Spyderjon maybe?
    My QK screw spec for the Freeraider 14's is 10mm countersunk flat heads for the toe and 10mm pan heads for the heel. The pan heads need their head diameters reducing to 8.4mm.

    However, the Moment version of that binding has a 4mm thicker toe base so you're going to need 14mm csk flat heads for the toes. Like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ATK Freeraider 14 QK screws with 4mm toe shim.jpg 
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ID:	399795

    In the UK & Yurp, being the lands of metric, we use the 5mm machine screws with no.2 pozi heads, not the bastardised no.3 pozi heads that BF use. The BF screws heads are therefore taller so overall length of their csk flatheads might be a tad longer.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Spyderjon; 01-05-2022 at 10:22 AM. Reason: Correct to reduced head diameter

  8. #1158
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,819
    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    My QK screw spec for the Freeraider 14's is 10mm countersunk flat heads for the toe and 10mm pan heads for the heel. The pan heads need their head diameters reducing to 8mm.

    However, the Moment version of that binding has a 4mm thicker toe base so you're going to need 14mm csk flat heads for the toes. Like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ATK Freeraider 14 QK screws with 4mm toe shim.jpg 
Views:	143 
Size:	843.9 KB 
ID:	399795

    In the UK & Yurp, being the lands of metric, we use the 5mm machine screws with no.2 pozi heads, not the bastardised no.3 pozi heads that BF use. The BF screws heads are therefore taller so overall length of their csk flatheads might be a tad longer.

    Hope this helps.
    Super helpful thanks it's just what I was looking for!

  9. #1159
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,249
    That reduced head dia for the heel screws should be 8.4mm

  10. #1160
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,387
    Iíll get some pics up in a couple days


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  11. #1161
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,142
    Day 1 on FR 14's, mounted on Backland 107's, toes shimmed 4mm. This will be a touring set-up but I wanted to make some resort laps first.
    Spent the am skiing powder and nice chopped pow on Volkl Katana 108 with STH2. Expected a significant performance drop-off with the lighter ski but was pleasantly surprised at how well it handled various conditions. Very confidence inspiring, and now I want another set for my QST 118's mounted currently with Shifts. Anybody replaced Shifts with Freeraiders? I'm wondering specifically about hole conflicts.

  12. #1162
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Thomas View Post
    riff, I'd really like to see your setup. Will be down at Mission sometime in the next week. As it happens I was specifically thinking about spacers for my helio 180's
    Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #1163
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Winthrop, WA.
    Posts
    1,237
    Ahhh. Perfect, I think I can handle that. Hoping to get mine mounted on some Powder Boards this week. Thanks riff

  14. #1164
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,387
    Thereís been a lot of discussion on these lately- Iím firmly in the camp of believers, especially in the world of wider skis and lighter boots. Cheers!


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  15. #1165
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    1,056
    Quote Originally Posted by CirqueScaler View Post
    Just throwing in an observation, I had ATK Trofeo 8s last year and the heels were very, very hard to turn. This model, black and green:

    Then I bought Trofeos from TP last spring, silver and green, and the heels are much easier to turn. Not noticeably difficult. IDK if it's a thing but yeah they're definitely easier.
    Well yeah that is part of the binding retention value.
    TLDR; Ski faster. Quit breathing. Don't crash.

  16. #1166
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    9,532
    Yeah, ATKs are harder to turn than sticking a pole and using that leverage on my Dynafits. So what, I got over it for the 10 other benefits.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  17. #1167
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by Beder View Post
    Day 1 on FR 14's, mounted on Backland 107's, toes shimmed 4mm. This will be a touring set-up but I wanted to make some resort laps first.
    Spent the am skiing powder and nice chopped pow on Volkl Katana 108 with STH2. Expected a significant performance drop-off with the lighter ski but was pleasantly surprised at how well it handled various conditions. Very confidence inspiring, and now I want another set for my QST 118's mounted currently with Shifts. Anybody replaced Shifts with Freeraiders? I'm wondering specifically about hole conflicts.
    Yes, replaced 2 pairs of shifts with fr14's and had no problem with hole conflicts. I think my boot-center moved about 2-3mm in order to get plenty of space between the holes. But yeah, no worries.

  18. #1168
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    19
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3173 Large.jpeg 
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ID:	401777

    Hi,

    I was adjusting the spacer height with inserts and one of the bolts snapped in half.

    I've contacted both DPS (I have DPS R14, which is a rebranded ATK FR14) and ATK as what should I do.

    Has anyone been through this process? Can the spacer be warrantied and swapped without remounting?

    Would really appreciate any advice. My local dealer isn't the best around here and doesn't carry spare parts for ATK and carries only DPS versions. There is another dealer that has spacers as parts, but wonder if they can help with the warranty process.

  19. #1169
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    268
    I doubt they will honor the warranty for a snapped screw. I would pull all the screws and remove the binding, which will get you access to the freeride spacer. If you can get out the screw on the other side you should be able to pull the spacer, which will allow you to remove the broken screw. A replacement screw should be all you need. Hit the tip of the screws with a soldering iron for a minute or two before removing, to soften the epoxy. Remount with epoxy.

  20. #1170
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Evergreen Co
    Posts
    694
    AlrightÖ Iím struggling with search.

    Can someone tell me if you can remove C Raider brakes and ski them brakeless? A buddy has a line on a pair but the brakes available are narrower than he needs (and he doesnít really want brakes).

    Maybe adding a Freeride spacer would make it work?

  21. #1171
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Summit Park UT
    Posts
    964
    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Alright… I’m struggling with search.

    Can someone tell me if you can remove C Raider brakes and ski them brakeless? A buddy has a line on a pair but the brakes available are narrower than he needs (and he doesn’t really want brakes).

    Maybe adding a Freeride spacer would make it work?
    Yes, there's no problem skiing C Raider without brakes. I'm using mine that way

  22. #1172
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Maine Coast
    Posts
    3,708
    There’s a brake cover you can buy from hagan mountaineering if you remove the brakes. They are helpful and responsive with questions

  23. #1173
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Wapow View Post
    I doubt they will honor the warranty for a snapped screw. I would pull all the screws and remove the binding, which will get you access to the freeride spacer. If you can get out the screw on the other side you should be able to pull the spacer, which will allow you to remove the broken screw. A replacement screw should be all you need. Hit the tip of the screws with a soldering iron for a minute or two before removing, to soften the epoxy. Remount with epoxy.
    Thanks Wapow, I'll think about it some more as I'm not confident about reglueing it back myself. Probably should just make sure the shims are ok height-wise and glue the lid, then stick with it until I switch boots.

  24. #1174
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    268
    There shouldn't be any "gluing" required. That cap is held on with the screw. The glue I was referencing (epoxy for regular mounting screws, loctite or vibratite for inserts) is just a drop in each mounting hole when you reinstall the screws. Should be easy. If you try to glue that cap back on, it probably won't stay on for long. Good luck!

  25. #1175
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    1,610
    Quote Originally Posted by Qilimanjaro View Post
    Would really appreciate any advice.
    Have you tried a screw retractor tool or a too score a shallow groove in the broken screw to use a flathead? Yeah, the screw is tiny and in a toight spot, but it should be possible to remove the screw without damaging the spacer too badly.

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