Official ATK Binding Thread

[D-Roc]

Maybe modify the boot sole? Take a couple mm off with a razor blade.

Has anyone done a release test (Vermont calibrator?) with and without freeride spacers?

I actually contacted ATK / Hagan about this... i have the Maestrale etc. it is NOT an issue according to them

Once you weight the boot and stand the pins align correctly. After a few uses it seems to have worked itself out. My assumption is the stack up analysis probably had a tight tolerance.

[D-Roc]

Also, you should sand down the top of the free ride spacer if its an issue for you, dont touch your boot, you can always add a spacer section if you over do it, not so on a boot lol

FYI - i had some icing issues with the spacer where the little screw was getting some ice build up on it as it has a little recess in it, i bought some telemark anti ice tape for the Meijo and put it on (super thin) and voila nothing since...

[D-Roc]

Thanks for all the info in this thread mags. Pulled the trigger on a pair of Helios 350's (Moosejaw is has a 20% coupon currently).

Going to see how I like the ramp angle (currently using old Fritschi Freerides - no ramp) but tempted to buy some shims from the start.

bought a BD 6.4mm shim for the toe (skimoco) - right as rain now

[riff]

I looked at putting on the freeride spacer yesterday, looks like it’s about 2mm too tall. I’m debating grinding material off the base to make it fit. $40 gamble- but folks say big skiing improvement...


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[D-Roc]

Pics of the tape....

[cat in january]

Which ones did you get, they don’t list ones compatible with Helios

[D-Roc]

Question to this group and could be my over analytical engineeriness...

Is this normal? the toe of 350 (trofeo) has a little side to side play? not a ton but noticeable... is this normal?

[fleaches]

I actually contacted ATK / Hagan about this... i have the Maestrale etc. it is NOT an issue according to them

This is with maestrales and trofeo + (helio 180)?


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[D-Roc]

This is with maestrales and trofeo + (helio 180)?


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helio 350. Trofeo toe, raider tower

[D-Roc]

Which ones did you get, they don’t list ones compatible with Helios

AL 09 is compatible

[Benneke10]

Question to this group and could be my over analytical engineeriness...

Is this normal? the toe of 350 (trofeo) has a little side to side play? not a ton but noticeable... is this normal?

I just had 3 pairs of Crests mounted at skimo (2 for me, 1 for GF). Some of the levers had play, others didn't. Skimo said that is completely normal for ATK toes. I'm still annoyed about it especially since there is no way to get rid of it.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

Also, you should sand down the top of the free ride spacer if its an issue for you, dont touch your boot, you can always add a spacer section if you over do it, not so on a boot lol

Trimming AT boot soles to improve binding compatibility is frequently necessary, especially to avoid interference with toe wings on tech bindings, but also when an AFD is involved and you want a clean interface. This is because there is no standard (unless you have Gripwalk boots, I guess) that dictates sole shape or thickness. This is also why the freeride spacers need to be adjustable. I'm not sure why you think it obviously makes more sense to grind away on a durable metal part than to trim a boot sole that is going to wear down anyway, especially if you ever walk on rocks. Trimming takes a few minutes with a razor blade and can be done very selectively.

[cat in january]

AL 09 is compatible

Got that, I was asking which shim.

[D-Roc]

Trimming AT boot soles to improve binding compatibility is frequently necessary, especially to avoid interference with toe wings on tech bindings, but also when an AFD is involved and you want a clean interface. This is because there is no standard (unless you have Gripwalk boots, I guess) that dictates sole shape or thickness. This is also why the freeride spacers need to be adjustable. I'm not sure why you think it obviously makes more sense to grind away on a durable metal part than to trim a boot sole that is going to wear down anyway, especially if you ever walk on rocks. Trimming takes a few minutes with a razor blade and can be done very selectively.

its plastic, not metal

[D-Roc]

Got that, I was asking which shim.

https://skimo.co/bnd-shims

Classic 6.4

[D-Roc]

to ISBD, again, its preference, but i do have a brand new pair of maestrale RS, i mounted noticed a slight interference between the lowest free ride spacer and the pin height.

I contacted ATK and HAGAN with pictures and the consensus was it should not be an issue, again it was 1mm +/- .5, once i weighted the boot, and compressed the vibram sole a bit it lined up perfectly and after a few days of use, not an issue.

As an engineer i get that stack ups dont always align and that some alterations or modifications do need to be done.

[Benneke10]

Trimming AT boot soles to improve binding compatibility is frequently necessary, especially to avoid interference with toe wings on tech bindings

This may be a bit off topic but I noticed the Crest toes don't really open up enough to release my Hawx XTD boots. You have to yank the boots out of the toes even when they're open all the way. Is this a scenario where I should shave down the sides of the toe lug?

[I've seen black diamonds!]

This may be a bit off topic but I noticed the Crest toes don't really open up enough to release my Hawx XTD boots. You have to yank the boots out of the toes even when they're open all the way. Is this a scenario where I should shave down the sides of the toe lug?

That wouldn't concern me at all. What is common with some boot-binding combos is that the sole puts pressure on the toe wings when they are closed (which could affect release characteristics) or rubs against the wings when you are walking (which is annoying). If you just use a set up like this the sole with compress or crumble off. But it's very easy to solve with a razor blade. I did this minor surgery on an old pair of Maestrale RS's (I can't remember which binding they couldn't play ice with- maybe Kingpins?).

The other scenario I've seen is that a sole lug might interfere with a consistent AFD contact. This was the case when I used Shifts with Hawx XTD's. Instead of the AFD making contact with the smooth Walk-to-Ride block in the middle of the forefoot, the AFD pushed against the corner of two rubber lugs. After a couple small cuts everything lined up just right.

In both cases the amount of material I moved was very small. And I didn't come up with this idea. I read about here and years ago on wildsnow and possibly tetonat as well.

[galibier_numero_un]

its plastic, not metal

Trimming the top seems wrong to me. Isn't it a sliding AFD sort of construction? And yeah, trimming the boot heel makes more sense to me (unless, you perhaps trim the spacer from the bottom).

[edit] .5 to 1m? Follow their advice [/edit]

... Thom

[Adrgha]

Any other templates for the R12/14 floating around other than the original ones from ATK?

Having to rely on the midsole mark on my boots is a bit of a PITA as they're both chewed up by rocks and hard to see.

[Spyderjon]

Any other templates for the R12/14 floating around other than the original ones from ATK?

Having to rely on the midsole mark on my boots is a bit of a PITA as they're both chewed up by rocks and hard to see.

Just pen in the line on the boot shell so that it's easily visible.

The ATK website is showing some new templates for some of their models but they can't be downloaded yet. Hopefully they'll finally be offering decent templates with sole length marking etc.

[L82thegate]

I've mounted 2 sets of R-12's I'm happy with by taping across the ski where my heel / front edge of boot fall with a correct reference point on the ski's relative to center. Toe piece attached to boot, place it, find the center point with equal dimensions side to side and mark hole 1. Pilot hole first, check it and if good take it out to correct size. Screw the binding to ski just enough to offer resistance from rotating. Check for centering again & if good mark / drill the other 3. The sequence in which you tighten screws can change the orientation a very small amount, isn't unusual with no jig but didn't happen with my 2 mounts. Toes tightened down with a clipped in boot will let you align the heel pins to the boot. With a movable heel piece, be sure you have it where you want it, especially if a second pair of boots with different bsl will be used. Get hole 1 established, tighten a screw, mark / drill the remaining 3. If you're careful and double check before drilling, you'll have a pair mounted in about the time it takes me to drive to a shop, drop off, return. Roughly 1.5-2 hours and that's at a leisurely pace. Considering a few RT 2.0's I did the same way, I've only had 1 hole I fudged a tiny bit.

[SupreChicken]

bought a BD 6.4mm shim for the toe (skimoco) - right as rain now

Where did you get the longer screws you needed?

Edit: Nevermind. Skimo has them. I’m very stupid.

[D-Roc]

I quiver killer so just some longer screws, but you can buy longer screws at skimoco

[Adrgha]

Just pen in the line on the boot shell so that it's easily visible.

The ATK website is showing some new templates for some of their models but they can't be downloaded yet. Hopefully they'll finally be offering decent templates with sole length marking etc.

I contacted ATK this morning about the missing download links for the new templates, and they promptly replied that they have just uploaded them.

Apparently this new template is for bindings with serial numbers starting with X. I can't see any difference from first glance, but I'll look closer when I get home.

Edit: Upon closer inspection I see that the two front holes in the toe piece are 15 mm narrower than on the "old" template. I guess there's a new toe coming?