Official ATK Binding Thread

[shitskier]

Anyone know if you can use the freeride spacers on the Raiders without brakes? Just ordered a pair of raiders but there were no brakes in the right width.

Edit: Answered here: https://skimo.co/atk-binding-parts Seems like this works. Already regretting ordering a binding that needs so many accessories though.

[Westcoaster]

Anyone know if you can use the freeride spacers on the Raiders without brakes? Just ordered a pair of raiders but there were no brakes in the right width.

Edit: Answered here: https://skimo.co/atk-binding-parts Seems like this works. Already regretting ordering a binding that needs so many accessories though.

Yes works fine. You dont need any of the accessories though, and i happily run them without brakes and the spacer. Weight is like 280g naked of the addons.

[Reformed]

How are you all finding ATK's release values? Similar to what you run on Alpine/DIN binders? I have had a handful of vertical releases on a pair of Crest 10s that felt a bit soft for a given RV. I ski my alpine setups (Look PX/Pivot and Marker Griffon) set to 9 and only come out when I should. I started out with my RVs set to 8.5 on the Crests and have increased the setting as I have released from them. I am hoping that the recent adjustment from ~9 to 10 will be enough to hold me in, but am finding it odd that I am having to set the RV this high. Previous touring bindings (Dynafit and Tecton) were much more similar to my alpine setups. I know that RVs are just numbers that aren't comparable to DIN values and don't really care what the indicator says if I stay in when I should and release when I should, so mostly just curious if others have noticed anything similar.
User error stuff like heel gap, snow on heels of boots, boot fitting conditions etc. have been checked/double checked/ruled out as contributing factors to the extent possible. Lateral release values seem comparable to DIN so far - i.e. currently set to 9 and haven't had any unexpected releases.

[miketheskier]

I got some touring boots but had to swap out the gripwalk soles for alpine soles because I got ski setups with bindings that are like a decade old. Does anyone know if ATK bindings will still let me release properly with the alpine soles? Or do I need to replace the soles on my boots again? I fired them an email but haven't heard back yet.

[fleaches]

How are you all finding ATK's release values? Similar to what you run on Alpine/DIN binders? I have had a handful of vertical releases on a pair of Crest 10s that felt a bit soft for a given RV. I ski my alpine setups (Look PX/Pivot and Marker Griffon) set to 9 and only come out when I should. I started out with my RVs set to 8.5 on the Crests and have increased the setting as I have released from them. I am hoping that the recent adjustment from ~9 to 10 will be enough to hold me in, but am finding it odd that I am having to set the RV this high. Previous touring bindings (Dynafit and Tecton) were much more similar to my alpine setups. I know that RVs are just numbers that aren't comparable to DIN values and don't really care what the indicator says if I stay in when I should and release when I should, so mostly just curious if others have noticed anything similar.
User error stuff like heel gap, snow on heels of boots, boot fitting conditions etc. have been checked/double checked/ruled out as contributing factors to the extent possible. Lateral release values seem comparable to DIN so far - i.e. currently set to 9 and haven't had any unexpected releases.

I have crests and, like you, ski a 9 at the resort. I actually set my crests a little lower (8.5) and haven't had any real issues in three seasons. I can only remember one unwanted release that was almost certainly due to snow build up in the heel. Caveat is that I don't ski them super hard usually and they are on pretty light skis.

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[waxoff]

I got some touring boots but had to swap out the gripwalk soles for alpine soles because I got ski setups with bindings that are like a decade old. Does anyone know if ATK bindings will still let me release properly with the alpine soles? Or do I need to replace the soles on my boots again? I fired them an email but haven't heard back yet.

Ehh, do you have tech fittings on said alpine soles?

[CaliBrit]

Have some Kuluar 12 LT’s coming. I’ll do will do a direct comparison to the FR14. Elastic travel and two riser heights without turning the heel was what steered me there. Good weight saving over the FR14 and not a huge amount heavier than the Trofeo.

[miketheskier]

Ehh, do you have tech fittings on said alpine soles?

I really don't know but hopefully one of these pictures help. I assume yes because the heel has slits in it? Pictures below, appreciate any help 🙏🏼

[waxoff]

^^^Yeah, if they're in good shape you should be good to go.

[galibier_numero_un]

I got some touring boots but had to swap out the gripwalk soles for alpine soles because I got ski setups with bindings that are like a decade old. Does anyone know if ATK bindings will still let me release properly with the alpine soles? Or do I need to replace the soles on my boots again? I fired them an email but haven't heard back yet.

The only problem I can see (with any tech binding) is that you might have to manually engage the toe when clicking in.

... Thom

[WhetherMan]

Have some Kuluar 12 LT’s coming. I’ll do will do a direct comparison to the FR14. Elastic travel and two riser heights without turning the heel was what steered me there. Good weight saving over the FR14 and not a huge amount heavier than the Trofeo.

Looking forward to this comparison.

[Lord Thomas]

I too am becoming Kuluar curious.

[Benneke10]

I too am becoming Kuluar curious.

The only reason to get the Kuluar is if you need a high lateral release value. The Kuluar 12 uses the same heel spring as the 10 release Trofeo, but it does have lateral release up to 12. They only weigh like 20 grams less than the Crest which can often be found at a similar price, and offers the Cam system which I think is worth a few extra bucks and grams if you're looking at these bindings. The Cam system allows more precise release adjustment and more consistent vertical release.

[kamtron]

Actually, the Kuluar heelpiece adds flex compensation. But less BSL adjustment than Trofeo + plate.

[bossass]

Quick shoutout and thanks to Spyderjon. He set me up with some FR14s, all the accessories, and super fast shipping for an excellent price. Throwing these on some Faction La Machines... hoping I've nailed the ultra-fat, "lightweight", Hokkaido touring setup.

[CaliBrit]

The only reason to get the Kuluar is if you need a high lateral release value. The Kuluar 12 uses the same heel spring as the 10 release Trofeo, but it does have lateral release up to 12. They only weigh like 20 grams less than the Crest which can often be found at a similar price, and offers the Cam system which I think is worth a few extra bucks and grams if you're looking at these bindings. The Cam system allows more precise release adjustment and more consistent vertical release.

Not true.

Crest is flat or high, or rotate heel for medium.

Which is a ball ache if you spend you whole uphill in medium/high.

Agree cam system is great.

Weight difference is more than 20g too.

[dcpnz]

Well I messed up by not doing my research properly.
Bought C-raiders and AL12 toe shims. Apparently they don’t play nicely together. I think the shims are only meant for the raider/freeraider since they don’t match the C-raider toe plate shape particularly well and come with fairly short flat head screws not pan heads. Oops!

[cat in january]

Sure you can flip the toe shims easy here

[dcpnz]

Well yeah probably, but that doesn’t help reduce ramp on the c-raiders though. Should have just bought regular raiders.

[CaliBrit]

Well yeah probably, but that doesn’t help reduce ramp on the c-raiders though. Should have just bought regular raiders.

Still can!

[galibier_numero_un]

Not true.

Crest is flat or high, or rotate heel for medium.

Which is a ball ache if you spend you whole uphill in medium/high.

Agree cam system is great.

Weight difference is more than 20g too.

Rotating (pins rearward) gets you only a few mm higher than forward/flap over pins. Think of this as medium and medium plus a little. Its by no means high.

It might make a difference to some, but the main reason for rotating them (pins to the rear) is if you're on rolling terrain and need flat mode.

... Thom

[upallnight]

Well I messed up by not doing my research properly.
Bought C-raiders and AL12 toe shims. Apparently they don’t play nicely together. I think the shims are only meant for the raider/freeraider since they don’t match the C-raider toe plate shape particularly well and come with fairly short flat head screws not pan heads. Oops!

Raider toe shim works just fine on the C-Raider.

How do I know? I'm using it. Installed a week ago. Take a minute with a Dremel or belt sander to remove that lip. The shape/hole pattern is fine. It will reduce your ramp by ~4mm, so about 6mm instead of 10.

(

[dcpnz]

Raider toe shim works just fine on the C-Raider.

How do I know? I'm using it. Installed a week ago. Take a minute with a Dremel or belt sander to remove that lip. The shape/hole pattern is fine. It will reduce your ramp by ~4mm, so about 6mm instead of 10.

(

Will be curious how it holds up for you.
Yeah the holes line up but the extended piece below the locking lever is left unsupported.
And what did you do for screws?
Did you source some longer pan heads or just use the flat heads that came with the shim even though they’re too short?

[CaliBrit]

Rotating (pins rearward) gets you only a few mm higher than forward/flap over pins. Think of this as medium and medium plus a little. Its by no means high.

It might make a difference to some, but the main reason for rotating them (pins to the rear) is if you're on rolling terrain and need flat mode.

... Thom

Guess that’s my point. Hence….kuluar.

[upallnight]

Will be curious how it holds up for you.
Yeah the holes line up but the extended piece below the locking lever is left unsupported.

what do you think will happen? what is the real concern there? that the binding will open up? that the plate (or binding somehow) will break?

And what did you do for screws?
Did you source some longer pan heads or just use the flat heads that came with the shim even though they’re too short?

I used 18mm (i.e. +4-5mm) pozidrive screws.