Official ATK Binding Thread

[CirqueScaler]

On another note, Mt_Wilson, where did you order Trofeos for 280?

[Climbers Right]

On another note, Mt_Wilson, where did you order Trofeos for 280?

T-P in yurp has them at that price

[sf]

The delta on the Freeraider 16 is 11mm but it comes complete with a pair of 4mm shims (& longer screws) to reduce that to 7mm.

The 4mm shims (with screws) fit all the Raider models and are available seperately.

Also older models? With front brakes? Anyhow, do you know where to buy plates seperately? Through you?

[mt_wilson]

T-P in yurp has them at that price

Yep telemark Pyrenees. I think shipping $40 but i got 2 pairs and some new poles . They’re arriving today and ordered Monday which is cool.


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[Climbers Right]

It would be nice to see a lower RV raider get the shim+spacer in a package. With all the combos of toes and heels ATK has you'd think they could find a market for it. The FR14 is tempting right now at 475 from telemark but being a lightweight 130lbs the min RV is a bit high. I've yet to see the R12 for less than that without the spacer. Is the spacer not noticable unless you are 200lb+?

[stuntmanbo]

I'm 68kg and the spacer IS noticable.
Like you I wish the R12 + spacer was cheaper than the FR14.
I set my DIN at 8 and I'm not comfortable using a LT (non normed) binding at the very first value of the range. So I pay a few chf more to get the R12 + spacer.

[Climbers Right]

Agreed. I'm not so worried about using the lowest setting as I am the lowest setting being higher than the indictor says. I could get away with an 8 especially steep skiing but when I had my crests tested with a vermont they released around an 8-11 (boot depending) when set to a 7 vs a 7-8 with brakes removed. That's been my experience with most all low tech and brakes. Anyone seen any r12s or any of the lower RV raider variations going for $500 or less? The $100 upcharge for the binding plus spacer is noticable

[Spyderjon]

It's the same as the Freeraider 14 in every respect apart from being 9-16 din, being black and the shims are included.

Also older models? With front brakes? Anyhow, do you know where to buy plates seperately? Through you?

The new 4mm shims will also work with the Front 12. Yes, I'll be selling them and any other ATK has access to them but I don't know if the ski brands that are offering rebranded bindings have access to ATK's full range of products.

[Spyderjon]

It would be nice to see a lower RV raider get the shim+spacer in a package........

That's something I'm working on for next season. It's a ludicrous quirk of ATK's pricing structure that the FR14 inc the spacers is cheaper than the R12 + the spacers. I did tell them last season but I've recently received their 21/22 pricing and the same problem continues.

[sf]

The new 4mm shims will also work with the Front 12. Yes, I'll be selling them and any other ATK has access to them but I don't know if the ski brands that are offering rebranded bindings have access to ATK's full range of products.

Thanks

[CirqueScaler]

Am I the only one struggling to screw the crampon holder into the Trofeo toe piece? Doesn't seem like it slides all the way under so that the screw hole aligns - I have to screw it in a bit off-axis or it won't go in.

Attachment 367506

Not sure if you can see, but the screw is slightly off-vertical (and there's only one in). Obviously not preferable, but is this fine if the crampon holder isn't moving? If it's functional, I'm fine leaving it like this, even if it marks me as a disgusting jong.

I took this into my local shop, and they said it's a known issue with these bindings. They said that the solution was to widen the crampon holder screws but that keeping the crampon holders as mounted (ie jankily) would be fine because the ski crampon pushes the holder into the toe piece during use.

I'll probably try to drill it out a bit bigger. Looks pretty easy.

[chill winston]

A few observations on these binders. I have the earlier front-mounted brake FR14 2.0 as well as the later rear brake with floating stomp pad version FreeRaider 14. I have also mounted a pair of race RT lightweight 2.0s on my daughter's skis, and a pair of BD Helio 350s on my wife's skis (156cm K2 Talkback -- holy crap is this rig light). I have skied the FR14 2.0 extensively over two seasons, including a week long hut-to-hut trip across the dolomites (my daughter also took her RT's on that trip). I have skied the newer Freeraider 14 for about a season and a half, up and around tahoe and the eastside. So i have some observations across these different bindings.

I prefer the front brake 2.0s (and the RT front brake version) better than the newer back brake version. The stomp pad is simpler, and although the front brake looks odd and you get quizzical looks, it just Fn works. The rear brake on the newer version is prone to icing, and after repeated use trying to get the brake bar to lock under the catch clip, one of my skis only works half the time. If there's any ice in the spring channel, it prevents the button from being pushed in all the way and if you force the brake down you can slightly bend the bar or deform the catch clip. That seems to be what's happened to mine (will post pics).

I also had a number of prereleases from the toe in touring mode (yes, levers were locked), all with F1s. One particularly gnarly incident saw me kind of skating up a small rise above a lake when the left ski inexplicably popped off and starting running away down the slope and into the half frozen lake. Dove after it like a total jong but it eluded my grasp. Fortunately the ski was caught by the only little bush on the steep lakeshore, and i was pole belayed down a 6 foot drop to retrieve it. Yikes. After this trip I reset the toe hardness to "firm" and haven't had issues since. I have never prereleased in ski mode. I weigh 195 and frequently ski with a 35-40 lb overnight pack.

I have had no tour or ski mode prereleases in the older front brake version.

Both versions ski amazingly well. I never ski my dynafits anymore.

The ATK specific ski crampons (i run both the 97 and 108) are slick and fit well and are light and just work. Get the ATK ones, they rock.

I like the heel lifters. Very easy to deploy, but I am also someone who can still rock an old dynafit speed turn into all positions in a manner of seconds with my eyes closed :-)

I like the simplicity of the Helio 350, but it isn't for everyone. I think it is great for my wife's use, but I prefer the original FR 14 2.0 for bigger folks.

Anyway, I'm a big fan. The new binding is a bit slicker, but has a few drawbacks. I'll hang onto the older versions and ski them until you pry them from my dead rotting hands.

[chill winston]

pics of the brake issue. First is the way it should look. Second is after icing up and now no bueno. Need to remove brake and try to finesse any bends in the brake bar I think.





Pics of ATKs in action:
1. My daughter skiing off Piz Boe (RT lightweights)
2. Her getting rowdy in the Drei Zinnen
3. Me skiing under the wall of Cima Grande (older version)
4. This weekend - about to drop the E Couloir Matterhorn peak (newer version)

[jindustry]

chill winston, I've also noticed the ATK rear brakes are quirky. I just just installed Crest 8 bindings for my sister, and even after a short test hike, the brake would not lock out of the way. I think some icing prevented the latch from catching the brake.

In addition, latching the brake out of the way seems like pretty bad ergonomics / interface design. It's a pain to kneel down to the binding, keep the "button"/brake latch bar pressed, step on the brake and finally release the button/bar while the brake is retracted. It seems like they could have engineered a better system than holding a button on your binding and having to time the release of the button before you lift your heel.

[timmaio]

Same, I have had a fair amount of trouble with the brakes. I still like them often over nothing, but the design is lacking. I recently relubed a pair and they are working better.

[sf]

If I in 20 years time ski lines like this with my upcoming daughter I'll be perfectly satisfied with my life

[Westcoaster]

chill winston, I've also noticed the ATK rear brakes are quirky. I just just installed Crest 8 bindings for my sister, and even after a short test hike, the brake would not lock out of the way. I think some icing prevented the latch from catching the brake.

In addition, latching the brake out of the way seems like pretty bad ergonomics / interface design. It's a pain to kneel down to the binding, keep the "button"/brake latch bar pressed, step on the brake and finally release the button/bar while the brake is retracted. It seems like they could have engineered a better system than holding a button on your binding and having to time the release of the button before you lift your heel.

I don't think it was designed for boot in brake lock.

[stuntmanbo]

20 days on old Raider 2, 40 on the new R12.

I have no trouble with the rear brakes. However I had some with the font ones not locking or really difficult to lock. I guess everyone experience is different.
I’d say that the rear brake atk system is fine, I prefer a manual system that is working vs the automatic garbage on some other heavier bindings (shift ...)

[OrangeCSkier]

Am I the only one struggling to screw the crampon holder into the Trofeo toe piece? Doesn't seem like it slides all the way under so that the screw hole aligns - I have to screw it in a bit off-axis or it won't go in.

Yup, similar issue on my Helio 150. I accepted that they weren't going to come off and resigned to the possibility of the cross-threading them. I overtorqued one of the intial screws and broke the head off because there's not much of a change in feel between getting them started and when they are finally secure.

[fleaches]

I’d say that the rear brake atk system is fine, I prefer a manual system that is working vs the automatic garbage on some other heavier bindings (shift ...)

Pretty much agree with this, they might ice up sometimes but I have never had them deploy accidentally once you get them in the hook. I have been finding I like the B&D leashes more and more though, will probably just use leashes on dedicated touring bindings in the future.

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[Benneke10]

Taking the brake off and greasing the spring mechanism definitely improves performance. Still not great but better.

[jindustry]

I don't think it was designed for boot in brake lock.

You may be right, Westcoaster. Latching the brakes out of the way by hand are still a bit awkward ergonomics for smaller people like my sister. Here's a video of a technique that involves bracing the ski before pushing down with your palm that may help small people. Gloves/mittens might make it a little trickier.

[Jonathan S.]

Depending on the year, yes, very worried. between me and my wife we have broken 5 individual heel flaps. However we have not broken any of the newer iteration(started shipping mid/early season of 19/20). I don't think it was ever a day ending breakage, it would still hold on enough to get home and there is actually a flat mode on these bindings, it just don't work ideally.

Before you get too concerned about the 5 broken flaps, consider we have been running these bindings for 7 years and currently have 4 pairs mounted on different skis(3 pr race skis, 1 pr on 77 underfoot, last year had a pair on 86 underfoot and loved it)

Tomorrow I'll be able to compare side-by-side the current race model heel flap vs a 2017-18 version.
But I think you would agree that the key with any of these is to keep the torx-head bolt sufficiently tight so that the heel flap stays flat/closed while skinning?
Otherwise it can flip up vertically that get broken by a boot heel stomping down on it.
(If the heel flap stays on the heel pins as intended while touring, sure seemed impossible to break.)

[Spyderjon]

...........The 4mm shims (with screws) fit all the Raider models and are available seperately.

Correction to my earlier post: the new 4mm shims with longer screws (for 21/22) with fit the Freeraider 16/14's, the Raider 12's and the Front 12 but it will not fit the C-Raider 12 as that has a different shape base.

I'll be continuing to make/supply shims for the C-Raider in 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm or 6mm with appropriately longer screws

[hafjell]

I prefer the front brake 2.0s (and the RT front brake version) better than the newer back brake version.

Haven't skied the new ones, but I thought the old brakes were great if odd looking. Who cares as long as they work?

Are those photos from this season?