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Thread: TR: Tohoku, Japan - 2020
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02-04-2020, 08:24 PM #1
TR: Tohoku, Japan - 2020
What up collective—
Hanging out on the Shinkansen and figured this was a great time to process the massive amount of stoke from the last week of skiing in the Tohoku region on Honshu. In an effort to protect the ski areas I went I’ll be avoiding using the names. If you want to know just shoot me a PM and I’m happy to share.
We flew into Narita about 4 days early to catch up to the jet lag and allow bags to transport to Morioka. Spo-Sea-JP was a 23 hour day so gear up and try to not sleep. We passed out by 20:00 local time in Tokyo and slept all night!
A couple rapid fire thoughts: the Yamoto Bag service location we used is on the south side of terminal one, the next stall over is Sakura mobile so this made it quite easy to mail bags and get a SIM card. Yamota will weigh your bags so make sure your shit is <50kg we had to pull out ski boots and our avy packs.
Tokyo:
Day 1-4
Jet Lagggggged but here!
night cap before crashing!
Night lights
Shibuya Crossing
Monster bar — I’d pass on this in the future.
Fuck the food was good!
Do the robot bar!
We booked the “Frontier Explorer” trip from Japan Ski Tours (JST). It had high reviews on Powderhounds and seemed about our speed. Pretty much lift accessed backcountry with 2 days of tram accessed touring on the end. Hearing of the low tide in Japan had me worried but since I was with a guide service I figured they would help us find good snow!
Rough outline:
Days 1-5 were in Morioka
Days 6-8 were in Aomori
Day 2 - resort 1
Snow report - 10-15cm of heavy cream cheese
Temp: 32-35*
Wind: none
First run was a gang bang on the gondy line it was heavy but fun, low snow meant there were a ton of things to jump off!!
As the day moved on it set up and got pretty ugly! The sun baked it... what happened to the classic endless Japow? Sure it was a low tide season but fuck.
There was also some pretty shitty guiding from JST. After a heavy first run Mrs SkiLyft needed to chill and let the legs recover — they assured me there would be however we got to our next run they showed a path to the right which “would open up to a groomer”. In short it didn’t; it was 1200 ft of concrete that set up to be hammered dog shit. I skied the run under the chair which the first bit was heavy but good and the bottom was survival skiing. Halfway down I poked right to meet up with the Mrs but when I looked up and saw the run they sent her down I was pissed! Her day was pretty wrecked from a confidence standpoint.
As the day went on we poked into some other trees but the low tide meant ALOT of brush was showing. That in combination with the dense snow meant your shit needed to be dialed — good thing I was on my goats as they ate that shit UP!
At least it was pretty
Went to our first onsen that evening not knowing what to expect but getting nekkid with strangers was a bit intimidating. This one was co-ed meaning separate entrances to one common pool. The water was murky so all was good! After copious amounts of sake was ordered we got over our nudity.
Day 3 - resort 2
Snow report - nil
temps - 28-30*
Wind : Moderate
This was a smaller place that supposably had good trees. The top was around 1300m so was my thoughts were “go high” and maybe we can get away from that crust that was definitely there from the now re-frozen 10-15cm from the day prior.
After the day priors stunt I sent the Mrs to ski with one of the other couples (on piste) while I followed the guides knowing I could billygoat through anything. First run they chose was below 1000m and as we poked in there, there was a wicked breakable crust and trees were again TIGHT! WTF “where are these guys taking us” I thought... this is your hill. They had us traverse out right on to the windward aspect. It was even more fuq’d!! Umm I’m out — this is bullshit. Maybe there just wasn’t any good snow on this hill! Time to hunt!
Met up with the Mrs and said fuck these guides, were are going high and to the leeward aspects to find lighter density snow. We ascended to the top chair and from the chair was looking down on what appeared to be high quality H2O!!
First run I chose — fucking titty deep
We poked through all these trees that morning and found amazing snow. Never once did we see our guides — in fact after the fact was talking with Ekke (a great German guy on our trip) who skied the morning with the guides and they continued to make poor choice after poor choice.
Moar stoke!!
During lunch the guides did not offer intel on where they were skiing and basically were useless — knowing that we had found great snow I grabbed Ekke and the Mrs and we began our self guiding — despite paying for guides who were useless other than making dinner reservations and taking us to the hill!
Ended the day at a traditional onsen. At this point Ekke and I began to question some of the decisions our guides were making. In efforts to prevent continued errors on their route finding choices. We were told that we were heading north the next day as the forecast was a bit more favorable. “Hmm that’s interesting” I thought — the snow forecast was more favorable to the south and looking at telemetry the south had cooler temps. Mrs SkiLyft told me to relax — as they maybe had “on snow” information that the internet couldn’t tell us. Okay — fine!
Day 4 - resort 3
Snow report - NONE
Temp - 28-32*
Wind - light
When we met for breakfast and our guide said “the mountain is reporting 10cm mid mountain” cool I thought new snow! We jumped in the van and right as we left I refreshed my regional snow report and saw that to the south there was a report of 30cm... hmmm interdasting wonder why were are not going south?
We showed up to the base and it was pretty warm, there was no snow and when I questioned the guide he said “huh, that forecast of 10cm seems to have disappeared”. I just about lost it knowing there was 30cm to the south, in fact one of the other customers did and started crying! I was pissed — he straight up lied to us!
It was clear the guides had no plan and were being lazy — at this point I was preparing myself to chase good snow — I threw skins in our packs and Ekke, the Mrs, and I ascended the resort to the highest chair where low and behold there was a backcounty gate— not once did our guide mention this but thankfully I was prepared. There was a splitboard group that was skinning up (ironically from JST) their guide was laser focused and had a plan, clearly!
We jumped in their track and I am so glad we did — a winter wonderland opened up, we skinned up to 1450m and surveyed our options.
Mellow rolley terrain but great snow
Cool terrain — but there was a visible crown from a recent avalanche and without a guide to navigate the valley below we did not feel comfortable navigating out. (Once back at the lodge we found out that the snowboarding group rode that arm)
We lapped the mellow sub 30* slopes a few times and farmed some high quality snow!
We got back to the base around 1:30 to a pretty devastated group. They had skied garbage snow that morning and stopped after an hour. We were pretty stoked at the turns we found but felt bad for those who did not bring skins as they missed out but this was another huge miss by the guides on preparing the group for what the day could hold!
That night as a group we sat down with the main guide who was our “taxi” driver and said “This is not working”... we are paying a whole lot of money for a self guided trip. I also qualified my statement basically saying you’re blaming the shit year but I have been finding awesome snow EVERY DAY, I’m just using the weather/wind report to find it — something a guide with 6 years of experience in a region should easily be able to do.
Day 5 - resort 4 for some cat skiing in the AM and lift accessed turns at resort number 2 in the afternoon.
Snow report : nil
Temp: 26-29*
Wind: moderate
Based on the conversation with our guide the owner of Japan Ski Tours showed up to guide as lead guide. I was stoked!! Something got through!!
Before jumping on the Cat I grabbed him and shared what my experience had been — he listened and honestly was shocked. He wanted to continue the conversation as the day went on! We got in the cat and found some great turns at the top — with a lead guide who was navigating the terrain with us and showing us the way... finally!!
We grabbed a quick lunch then went back to resort 2 — owner of JST wanted to follow me around to see where I found good turns on day 2 as “chair 4 has never held good snow”. We jumped in the trees and it was DEEP, Cold, and Loaded! After a few runs he continued to guide us into some great spots including down into a crater of a volcano where the onsens draw their water!! Pretty rad day — and finally felt like there was guidance. We continued talking and he mentioned that his guides were having a really hard time keeping the stoke up this year and they have never had to work this hard to find good snow in the past so it’s stretching them; I understood but basically said; with climate change this will become the reality!
After this we loaded up the van and drove up to Aomori!
More food!
Last edited by SkiLyft; 02-05-2020 at 01:54 AM.
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02-04-2020, 08:25 PM #2
TR: Tohoku, Japan - 2020
Day 6 - resort 5
Snow report - 10-15cm
Temp - 20*
Wind - HIGH (60km/hr)
We arrived at the Ropeway knowing it was borderline to run and after waiting for 30 min they aborted the operation. No sweat JST works with a local guide service who know the resort incredibly well and so we jumped on the chair lift and ascended to the highest chair and skinned up. Wind was ripping near the top - so we stopped shy of the summit and dropped in!! Ahh some pretty incredible turns were made!
We made it back to the base of the resort in time for lunch — but the local guide disappeared I was a bit confused as we only had 1 run... the option was to ski the chair that was still running but the snow was so much better higher up. We ate some ramen which was incredible (curry ramen was FIRE).
~$12 lunch!
Just as we geared up the lift was closed due to wind!! Ughhhhh we were mega bummed because this was the best snow of the trip. At that point we all we’re disheartened and I folded — I was sick of pushing for more and a bit tired... so more onsen was in order!
That night went to a rad little performance — with more killer seafood!
Back at the hotel the group pushed our guide as to what happened on the hill today? Why did the local guide disappear? Why did we not tour up after the chair was closed as the forest we we’re in was very safe and low risk... we didn’t get answers. We asked that the following day whether or not the Ropeway was running we wanted to tour ALL DAY!! This did not seem like such a crazy request as we BOOKED this trip TO SKI!
Day 7 - resort 5
Snow report 20cm
Temp 10*
Wind - Moderate
Again we arrived at the Ropeway hoping it would open and it DID!! We were itching for a big day and finally got it!!
Toured out and found some amazing quality snow and LOTS OF IT! The local guide put us on the perfect aspects and skiing was all time!
Jim is a rad dude still slaying at 62!!
Ekke and I
Dropping!
Tracks to the right
Rinse - repeat
Whole lotta stoke — finally feeling like I’m skiing in Japan!
Skied out — caught the Ropeway for another round!
So good!
Dinner was another show — pretty sure we were the entertainment!
Shochu goes straight to the head
All in all this has been a wonderful trip so far; I have made new friends and memories I will hold onto for my whole life — the guides we paid for were essentially a taxi service and the last 2 days skiing we used the local guides at the mountain so I question what we paid for? In reality the hiccups did not affect my trip as we were prepared and when things were not going well aborted and found the goods on our own.
My question to the collective is; do I ask for some sort of refund as 3 of the 6 days were essentially self-guided? When the trip very clearly outlines that this would not be the case?!? I mean I can understand if there was no good snow — ski trips depend on good weather and with climate change that is becoming more challenging but this was NOT THE CASE.
Cheers
Off to Sapporo to the winter festival for some non-skiing activities!Last edited by SkiLyft; 02-04-2020 at 08:57 PM.
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02-04-2020, 08:29 PM #3
fukkkk yea
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02-04-2020, 09:15 PM #4Registered User
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FKNA!
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02-05-2020, 02:09 AM #5Mike Pow
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Boom Boom
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02-05-2020, 02:38 AM #6
Looks fun. Which onsen was the coed one? I've struggled to find much in the way of mixed bathing.
Originally Posted by grrrr
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02-05-2020, 06:05 AM #7
Of all the onsens the two coed were:
Montsukawaso
Sukayu
Not sure it’s a great place to pick up ladies as the youngest may have been ~65 years old... unless you’re into that!
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
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02-05-2020, 08:36 AM #8Registered User
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Well freakin done broseph!!
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02-05-2020, 08:41 AM #9
Hah small word. Tell Ekke I say hi. I skied with him in Japan 5 or 6 years ago. We made a trip up to AK for heli-skiing together the following season, got skunked by weather, then diverted down to WA for a few days of skiing.
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02-05-2020, 09:05 AM #10
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02-05-2020, 09:16 AM #11
Well done and nice photos!
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02-05-2020, 11:52 AM #12
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02-05-2020, 04:04 PM #13
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02-05-2020, 05:12 PM #14
Well usually there’s a tip for the guides. Maybe you talk to the owner and say “I really don’t want to tip these guys”.
Still, fun trip all around.Well maybe I'm the faggot America
I'm not a part of a redneck agenda
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02-05-2020, 05:38 PM #15
Get out — he mentioned those trips!! We’re thinking mustang powder cats next year. You should come!
That’s my thought — money is spent and I had a blast!
So our main guide was with us the whole trip as the driver. Then each day a second guide would join. In Morioka it was someone from JST but in Aomori it was subbed out to the local guiding service.
Ohh ha there was no tip — and I have never NOT tipped a guide but this was a joke. The final straw was on the last night Ekke and I wanted to go to a local bar and buy his drinks, chat, and tip him but he said “don’t go to the bar across the street as our last customers got kicked out because they don’t want foreigners” and failed to give a recommendation to a bar, almost like he didn’t know a spot.
Thanks for the recs gents!!
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02-05-2020, 06:16 PM #16
The fun you had on your trip really comes through. I appreciate a thorough TR of old!
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02-05-2020, 11:03 PM #17
++++!
Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
>>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<
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03-11-2020, 04:28 AM #18Registered User
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Great TR!!!! What sort of gear were you on to (skis, boots, and bindings?). Planning my 1st trip to Japan for next winter and wondering what are you guys using for a mix of inbounds and backcountry...
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03-12-2020, 02:30 AM #19Mike Pow
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Good to see it all worked out in the end. Some great pics, and you obviously had a good time.
Which dates were you on the trip?
Re your words above, get over yourself.
You're not protecting anything.
You were on an organised tour ffs
https://www.japanskitours.com/8-day-...-explorer.html
All the names are there.
Geto Kogen, Tazawako, Hachimantai Panorama, Shizukuishi, Appi Kogen or one of the smaller Shimokura, Amihari or Iwate Snowpark
Hakkoda
TBF Japan Ski Tours sound fucking useless
Very similar story on Hokkaido this winter.
'Guiding' companies have had it easy for so long.
Learn about 8-10 routes in each resort so you can do 1-3 days there with a regular top up each day.
Most customers can manage 4-8 runs per days depending on whether lift accessed or not and the size & ability of the group.
When a low snow year arrives the 'guides' don't know where to go and just ski the usual runs they always do. Along with everyone else.
And I've put 'guides' like this, because most are just seasonal workers who've skied a bunch and stuck around.
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03-12-2020, 07:16 AM #20
Those places could really use some business to keep from closing.... having it all to yourself means they ain’t making much moneys.
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03-20-2020, 01:25 PM #21
a lot of "guides" in Japan are 1 - uncertified and 2 - working without a visa.
hell yeah i would ask for a refund, you didnt get what you paid for and you probably didnt actually have a ski guide, rather a tour guide.
it is worth asking your "guiding" company if their guides are certified. we have seen people take AST 2 (sometimes only AST 1) and see them offering "backcountry guiding" shortly thereafter. it sucks in your case, but even more so in the obvious safety aspect. your basic AST and AIRE certs are not for professionals, but recreational.
if you were promised guiding and your guide was not certified i would ask for a full refund.
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04-16-2020, 11:02 AM #22Registered User
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04-16-2020, 11:59 AM #23Banned
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Japan is definitely on the "to do before I turn 40" list.
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04-16-2020, 12:22 PM #24
40" what?
GREAT TR!!!“How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix
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05-07-2020, 10:50 AM #25Minion
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Thanking
just awesome info i am searsing
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