France in spring: help planning

[El Chupacabra]

Mrs. C. and I have two weeks this spring where we have flights booked to/from Paris CDG -- and nothing else planned yet. Looking at guidebooks and overwhelmed by options.

Any France experts here who wouldn't mind helping plan a trip? We're thinking walking/sightseeing trip, using public transport (trains, not renting a car), not a ski trip. Mrs. C. has been to Provence before, I've never been to France. Planning on spending several nights in Paris to sightsee around there -- say, 5-6 nights there, with day trips nearby (Versailles?).

[doebedoe]

Loire Valley is pretty dope if you like castles and wine (and biking). But it is a bit more difficult if you're against renting a car. Orleans, Tours and Angers are the big cities, but their are a grip of quaint towns along the river -- Amboise, Chinon, Saumur, Ancenis, etc. Most of those have train access. The whole valley is covered by Loire a Velo -- a well marked and easy to use bike route that is country roads and bike paths. Relatively flat. Lots of bike rental companies do point-to-point style options. I did most the valley on bike in May a few years back and had good weather. Plus the big time tourist chateaus (like Chambord) are not that crazy busy then.

Keep in mind the amount of strikes happening currently. I'm not up to date on how it's impacting rail travel but it can be a PITA.

[El Chupacabra]

I'm not completely against a car rental, just would prefer to not spend much time driving.

Loire Valley looks great. Bike tours are usually something we'd do; Mrs. C. says she's not sure she wants to ride in traffic.

[schindlerpiste]

When in Paris, stay at the Le Petit Paris. The price is right. The location is perfect (right next to Luxumberg Gardens), and the hotel is fine. Make sure that you visit Sacre couer and the pompedeaux.

[doebedoe]

Loire Valley looks great. Bike tours are usually something we'd do; Mrs. C. says she's not sure she wants to ride in traffic.

Traffic in the Loire is super minimal and nothing like riding in CO (you're in CO right?). People regularly drove 2 of their wheels off the road to give me ample space to pass.

I don't recommend riding out from Paris. Train out to Orleans and ride in a couple days to Tours, train back to Paris. Or Tours to Angers (even better wine country). Find a company that'll do point-to-point rides with luggage transfer (not uncommon -- or you can transfer luggage between rail stations inexpensively). When you're coming into/out of the big cities you have very good bike lanes or totally separate infrastructure.

I basically gave up bike touring in the US cause it blows compared to over there. If you go that way -- happy to answer any questions.

[XXX-er]

IME truckers and buses cars all give way to the bike in France so its not like NA

I think on a bike I would want it warmer than spring weather but you never know

they have paved virtualy everything in France like I seen a paved acess road in a ski resort under the lifts going up the Col de tourmalet, on a 1:250000 Michelin guide map the white & yellow roads are paved & great riding stay away from red and i think orange its been awhile

[El Chupacabra]

When in Paris, stay at the Le Petit Paris. The price is right. The location is perfect (right next to Luxumberg Gardens), and the hotel is fine. Make sure that you visit Sacre couer and the pompedeaux.

Thanks! For the times we're going to be there, price is $200+ US/night. Ouch.

doebedoe - thanks for the feedback on bike lanes etc. We're in NV; road riding here isn't the greatest. I'll look into a luggage transport/ bike inn-to-inn type tour.

[dan_pdx]

Possibly an unpopular opinion, but I am not very enamored of Paris (though it's probably nicer if you have money to hose around). I would be more inclined to trim my stay in Paris and spend more time in other parts of France.

I've never biked in France but have toured in Spain and can confirm that in my experience motorists are very patient and polite with cyclists.

[Rip'nStick]

Possibly an unpopular opinion, but I am not very enamored of Paris (though it's probably nicer if you have money to hose around). I would be more inclined to trim my stay in Paris and spend more time in other parts of France.

I've never biked in France but have toured in Spain and can confirm that in my experience motorists are very patient and polite with cyclists.

I second this. Stay a night or two on your days from/to airport and really enjoy them. Make sure you find little backstreets with street food like savory crepes while you are touristing around. I liked exploring little towns with a car so much, I would pick a region (like Provence, I would go back) and just tour and figure where you stay on the fly.

[doebedoe]

Don't let the Paris haters get you down. You're going at a good time of year before the hoards show up in even crazier mass.

Just walk a ton. Realize the Champs is dumb AF. Often the quarters a bit less central are far more interesting. But it's hard to fuck with drinking a bottle of bubbles in a blooming Luxembourg gardens before a good dinner and a romp in the hotel room.

[schindlerpiste]

In spring, waves are good in Biarritz. I love that whole area in between Biarritz and San Sebastián. The land of Basque...Excellent caving

[Benny Profane]

Lyon actually has better food. Not really worth visiting for anything else, but, the best food in France is certainly a pinnacle of sorts.

[old goat]

In Paris don't miss Sainte Chapelle--preferably late in the day on a sunny day when the light will be coming through the walls. (It's a small church essentially made of stained glass.)
We enjoyed Normandy and Brittany--Mont Saint Michel, the landing beaches, American cemetery, Bayeux tapestry, norman castles.
If you're into art Monet's house and garden in Giverny, pretty close to Paris. (And of course the Louvre and the Orsay but that goes without saying.)
Chartres Cathedral--probably the best preserved example of a Gothic cathedral in the world.
Also in Paris--Montmartre and Sacre Coeur, and Le Marais neighborhoods.
Neither Versailles nor the Loire Valley chateaux did much for me. I'm not into McMansions.

[dcpnz]

In Paris I like the Musée de l'Orangerie with Monet's large format lily paintings. We did a walking tour of the Latin Quarter and Île de la cité and a biking tour around the gardens of Versailles, both of which I'd recommend. The Atelier des Lumiéres is cool - had a Van Gogh show among others last summer. I'm still not sure what I think about the Catacombs but it was definitely interesting if not a bit macabre. I like staying around the 7th arondissment near Champ de Mars and if you're a foody go by Rue Cler.

[Benny Profane]

Orsay museum in Paris a must.

Going to the top of the Eifel tower at night after drinking dinner was fun.

[El Chupacabra]

Lots and lots of ideas.... Keep them coming! Thanks everyone.

[Benny Profane]

Many high speed trains service Paris. The experience alone is impressive to most Americans. You can be elsewhere quickly and comfortably from downtown, to another downtown. Day trips to various places are quite possible. Not too expensive, too.

[Benny Profane]

Sexiest women in Europe.

[liv2ski]

Sexiest women in Europe.

Ummm, the women of Milan were amazing our last trip, but I hear you. OP, your grousing over a $200 room in Paris? We go again in April and spent $400 a night for 5 nights because the last place we stayed is now $1k a night. Stop by and say hi if your there between March 31st and April 4th.

[old goat]

I forgot Musee Marmottan if you like Impressionists. It contains Monet's personal art collection as well as some of his works, including "Impression: Sunrise", the painting that gave Impressionism its name. It's small, out of the way, and much less crowded than the Orsay--although that was years ago. It's probably crowded like everything else these days.

[Benny Profane]

Good timing. Spring, before the summer tourist rush, and more important, no Chinese. Gawd, are they a pain in the ass and take up room.

[El Chupacabra]

Ummm, the women of Milan were amazing our last trip, but I hear you. OP, your grousing over a $200 room in Paris? We go again in April and spent $400 a night for 5 nights because the last place we stayed is now $1k a night. Stop by and say hi if your there between March 31st and April 4th.

I'm not paying $400/night anywhere. I'd cancel the trip before that

[Peruvian]

Mrs P and I spent an entire week in Paris in 2014 and loved it. We walked 12-15 miles per day using Everyman Mapguides as a general overview. We could have spent a month. The cafe culture is simply amazing.

In May we are headed to Provence to bike around for 8 days. We will fly in/out of Paris and will get to Versailles this trip.


We stayed at a 1 bdrm AirBnB in Le Marais and really enjoyed the central location.

[warthog]

Just did this trip in October. My wife had never been to Paris or France at all. I have spent a lot of time there. Thankfully, she totally fell in love and wants to go back soon.

If you hate cities, you might HATE Paris. There is literally no green space. Urban planning wasn't much of a thing before Christ, so the city kind of grew up around itself. If you see a tree, you are probably near the Seine. Other than major parks(gardens), there is only concrete, stone, and really cool old buildings.

The absolute best thing to do in Paris is BE in Paris. I can't really explain it. Just meld. Don't be American. Don't try to be French. Do TRY to speak French. The old stereotypes are gone, from what I saw. The best plan is to not have a plan. Have stuff you want to do and do it, but no plan, within reason.

Walk a lot. Take the Metro a lot. It amazed me the people that refused to take the Metro. THAT is where the city is. It is not too difficult. You get on the wrong train, you get off at the next stop and go the right way. A gypsy comes up begging, you move. Not scary at all.

Things I would actually plan out-
Louvre night tour- skip the lines, see the high points, drink wine and learn a ton about French wine culture in Les Caves du Louvre afterwards. Highly recommended.
Bateaux Mouches- night/ evening cruise. Best way to see a ton of the city, and from the water. The dinner cruise might be even better in the spring.
Musee D'Orsay- even if you think you don't like art, you will love this place.
Pont Neuf- because Pont Neuf.

We stayed in the 6th right next to Luxembourg Gardens at The Luxembourg Parc. That hotel was awesome. Looks like it will run about $300 a night in spring though. The location was perfect. Right near the Sorbone and Odeon, which is a super cool area. I credit most of our awesome experience on this trip to where we stayed. The area was decidedly un-touristy, and the people were really cool and young.

Anyway, here's some pics to get you stoked.

Luxembourg Gardens-




Shakespeare and Co- old book store-


Sacre Coeur-


Best sculpture in Paris-


Well, maybe this one is slightly cooler-


Les Caves du Louvre-


Sous Le Pont

[hutash]

It depends on what you want to see and do. I am no French expert, but have been a couple of times. Since you have not been to Paris, a week there is minimal IMHO. Just the art alone will take up that time, and I still haven't been to the Louvre. A day in the Musée d'Orsay and the Musée de l'Orangerie is a must. I like the Rodin museum as well. Just walking the streets of Paris and eating/drinking in random cafes is a must. Obviously you won't get into Notre Dame, but it's worth the walk.around for the gargoyles.

Aside from Paris, I would pick a location and spend most of the rest of tour time
We did Bordeaux, and if you like that style of wine you can't do better. Rent bikes or go on tours. If you are a Pinot fan, choose Burgundy instead. Like to hike and be outdoorsy consider Chamonix or Annecy instead. France is a big country, don't try and see it all in two weeks. Pock two, or maybe three areas and enjoy what they have to offer. And yes, the TGV will get you places amazingly fast, though you will hardly notice. We hit some amazing speeds on the way to/from Bordeaux and other then reading the graphics you would never know. These ain't Amtrak.