SCHOOL ME how to wash snow waterproof jacket/pants

[lorcar]

so i read something, and got confused.
Some suggested to use specific product instead of usual detergent. Like the Nixwax.
Is this mandatory or simply nice to do once in a while? what if i wash everything as usual at 30 or 40 degrees (celsius)? waterproofness lost?
Also, i read that you must tumble dry to reactivate waterproofness: is this the case? or again simply a nice to have? Here
https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/journal/w...-outdoor-wear/
I read: "Line dry your garment, or tumble it dry on a warm, gentle cycle. Once it is dry, tumble dry your garment for 20 minutes to reactivate the durable water-repellent (DWR) treatment on the outer fabric."

which i find it counterintuitive.

You experts, what do you suggest? thanks a lot in advance

[sierra_cement]

https://blisterreview.com/featured/h...r-down-jackets

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[sierra_cement]

https://blisterreview.com/featured/h...r-down-jackets

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Defunkify active wash and then tumble dry low/delicates cycle have been working well for me.

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[2FUNKY]

Oh. Great topic that has never been discussed on this forum before

[mcski]

Oh. Great topic that has never been discussed on this forum before

Ironic handle for posting shade on this topic

[stuckathuntermtn]

Woolite or Ivory snow. Follow directions on tag. Yes, heat can help revitalize waterproofing and breathability if manufacturer says it won't hurt it.

[XXX-er]

I have always washed in powdered detergent , wash again in just water, spary with spray-on DWR and thro in the dryer

[gregorys]

Timely topic.

I've used NikWax in the past, but haven't generally been impressed with their stuff. It's not bad, IMO, not that great either. Used the last of their down-wash a while ago. Felt like their DWR was worthless.

Since Atsko [the Snoseal folks] has sport-wash here locally at Bimart - I used it in the last week for my 25 y/o 850 fill puffy. [Feathered friends, BTW].

Atsko's not trendy - usually in the hunting section. You probably wont find it the same stores where you'll buy Patagonia etc.

Was super-pleased with the outcome.
Cheap at around $5 for something like 16 loads. [The price on Amazon is nuts, in comparison to the local store.]

Will also use it for all my WB shells, before I re-treat with DWR.
[I'm probably also going to use Atsko's water based DWR.]

[lorcar]

apologies for asking before searching.
I did it now. And i like to believe i understand the basic concept.
I see though that there is still no consensus on the DWR treatment: some prefer to use the wash-in, while someone else says that in this way the product also goes on the inside and kills breathability, thus they prefer the spray instead and apply it only on the outside of the garment.

[XXX-er]

I don't see how flushing a bunch of product down the drain is a good idea so i use the water based spray-on when the piece is wet out of the washer, I've done half a shell in revivex and half in grangers, IME they both worked about the same

be careful where you use spray-on, if it gets on the floor it will be very slick

and outside on wood decking it will leave a waterproof area

[SirVicSmasher]

Up next....

How to tie clown shoes.

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[buttahflake]

And how to do a proper comb over.

[tgapp]

+1 for Atsko. I've been using this stuff for years and it's just as good as any of the name-brand tech wash treatments (Nikwax, Granger's, etc). Gets stuff clean.

For DWR renewal, I still prefer TX Direct from Nikwax. I think that's the best out there, but you only need to renew DWR every 5 or so washes in my experience.

[3PinGrin]

I wouldn't bother washing unless it's insanely dirty. You will likely never get it back to original DWR repellency.

[crackboy]

most of Marmot stuff has recomendations of powder detergent in cold water though some are warm., tumble dry low.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I have heard about powder detergent being better than liquid. Gentler on stuff somehow?
I wouldn't use wash-in DWR. It kills breathability and you get puddles of water in your hood on the way home. Washing can do a good job restoring the ability for the garment to breath and maybe even allow water to bead up on the surface again, but only for like a day. It seems impossible to get it back to anything like factory surface repellency for more than an day. No idea why.

[AK47bp]

My understanding on the powder detergent is the gel can glob onto the outer layer in spots. Having that amount of concentrated soap on your DWR shell isn’t good.


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[old goat]

My understanding on the powder detergent is the gel can glob onto the outer layer in spots. Having that amount of concentrated soap on your DWR shell isn’t good.


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I don't know why powdered instead of liquid but this explanation makes sense, although powder can concentrate on one spot too. Whatever I use I partially fill a top loading machine after adding the soap before adding clothes.

I use Woolite on ski gear but there are two kinds of Woolite--the original stuff for delicates and a newer kind that's more like other detergents. I use the first one.

[AK47bp]

I don't know why powdered instead of liquid but this explanation makes sense, although powder can concentrate on one spot too. Whatever I use I partially fill a top loading machine after adding the soap before adding clothes.

I use Woolite on ski gear but there are two kinds of Woolite--the original stuff for delicates and a newer kind that's more like other detergents. I use the first one.

I guess With a top loader you can add the gear to the already soapy water by just running it first and then adding the clothes, front loaders you really can’t.


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[stuckathuntermtn]

I don't know why powdered instead of liquid but this explanation makes sense, although powder can concentrate on one spot too. Whatever I use I partially fill a top loading machine after adding the soap before adding clothes.

I use Woolite on ski gear but there are two kinds of Woolite--the original stuff for delicates and a newer kind that's more like other detergents. I use the first one.

Ooh, never noticed that. I'll be sure to look closely next time I buy some.

[RShea]

If you do not want to spend a bunch of money, get a bar of Fels Naptha soap. Soak a chunk of it in some warm water and then add that to the washing machine. Or Ivory Flakes also some like.

One of the issues with the Laundry soaps out there is they typically now all are detergents and also many include some fragrances. They are harder to completely rinse out of down or the linings or fill materials used on tech wear.

[lorcar]

Timely topic.


Since Atsko [the Snoseal folks] has sport-wash here

Was super-pleased with the outcome.


Will also use it for all my WB shells, before I re-treat with DWR.
[I'm probably also going to use Atsko's water based DWR.]

super-pleased because it was very clean? or because it was enough to restore DWR? I read as much as possible, and many people say that Nixwax/grangers/etc are useless. Most concerns refer to the DWR stuff, since apparently water beads only for very limited time and often just when at home and not outside under real rain

[MagnificentUnicorn]

I use A&H fragrance and dye free powder. Wash with second rinse, dry on low, no dryer sheets. Works great, wash often.

Dirty outerwear has shitty repellency, looks kore though

[GeezerSteve]

What works for me: Mild soap, NOT detergent, then rinse 2 or 3 times. After I wash, I run a complete wash/rinse cycle without soap. IME, Woolite or Dr. Bronner's works as well as $10 bottle tech wash soap. Replenish DWR with 303 Fabric Guard spray on clean dry garment, let hang a couple hours, then toss in dryer on medium.

[3PinGrin]

http://www.freeridesystems.com/washing-care-guide