3d printed mounting jig

[okaent]

Hi,

would you share the stl files over Thingivers or any other Platform. I would love to print your rig. For which binding did you design it?

Jonas

[Gullimukin]

Hi,

would you share the stl files over Thingivers or any other Platform. I would love to print your rig. For which binding did you design it?

Jonas

+1

[Flo Zebisch]

Hi dude,

i just found this thread while I was searching for a 3d model of a mounting jib - GREAT WORK!
Do you have some photos of a fully assembled jig? And do you think it's possible to get the 3D file for 3D printing?

I'm looking forward to hearing from you
Thanks in andvance!

Cheers
Flo

[ill-advised strategy]

Hi Flo

This is kind of an older thread, so I just wanted to chime in to let you know all the distribution is now being handled by Rontele.
Drop Rontele a pm for all the details.

[axebiker]

Hi Flo

This is kind of an older thread, so I just wanted to chime in to let you know all the distribution is now being handled by Rontele.
Drop Rontele a pm for all the details.

HE WAS QUICK GETTING BACK TO ME ON IT! I've already mounted 4 pair of skis with mine! Cheers to ya, Rontele!

[rfconroy]

Use a removable drill bushing with a shoulder, and just move it from hole to hole. That's what I'm doing.

https://www.mcmaster.com/8493a131

I was thinking about this, and using a drill bushing. However considering how expensive they are and how I'm a cheap asshole, I was thinking of other ways of accomplishing a perpendicular guide for your drill bit.

My thought is you could stack a series of nuts (10-32, 1/4-20, or 5/16-24 depending on mount type) in order to give you a ghetto drill bushing.

I'll see if I can mock this up tomorrow, and I'll let folks know how its goes.

[rfconroy]

Havent gotten around to testing the cheapass-drill bushing thing I was thinking about. However I did mock this up today in CAD:




Static system specifically sized by my boots, since most of mine are within 4mm of each other. More or less used the paper template as a guide, and extended upward to help with drill guidance. It's split into three separate parts, the largest being 210mm, so it should fit on most 3D print beds. Definitely not as fancy as OPs original design, but I think this would work for what I need.

[estk]

Hi,
Id love to try to print this, but i guess im not allowed to send dms. Can someone attach the stls here?

[rfconroy]

Hi,
Id love to try to print this, but i guess im not allowed to send dms. Can someone attach the stls here?

What bindings and bsl are you mounting with

[estk]

What bindings and bsl are you mounting with

black crowes ferox
atomic backland tour (salomon mtn)
Hoji pro tour 27.0 bsl 291

[Neil Fiedler (Not Neil Armstrong)]

This is fantastic.

[rfconroy]

black crowes ferox
atomic backland tour (salomon mtn)
Hoji pro tour 27.0 bsl 291

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4668734

I realized that the Pro Tour has the speed nose, so I needed to adjust the total length of the jig. Basically, from the paper template it looks like there is a 15mm offset between the two types of mounts, so you should use the "MTN 306BSL" and shift it forward? to compensate for your boot center. Obviously check with the paper template before since I have no way to check this thing...

[rfconroy]

This popped up on Thingiverse recently

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4641270/files

Might be worth a try

[justo8484]

This popped up on Thingiverse recently

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4641270/files

Might be worth a try

I had a friend print one for me. I have an oldschool pivot jig that doesn't open up past ~95mm so wanted something that'll work for wider skis. Hoping to get my pivot jig back and compare it to the 3d printed one and mount up a pair or two of skis with it this weekend. Just playing around with it, it seems solid enough, but I'm not 100% sure how the swively piece is going to truly center the jig on the skis. I wonder if a second set of "feet" might work better, similar to a traditional jig. Worst case scenario, you could still use this thing as a bootsole-adjustable template if you take the wings/feet off, measure to find width center and clamp it in place on the ski.

[yiu-han]

I made a template to use instead of the paper ones. The center piece is easily modified in the CAD for different soles.
Quick to align and to mark the holes and I use a separate drill guide to get the angle correct while drilling.

[m2711c]

That’s pretty slick...

[adrenalated]

ylu-han, very nice! I was planning on printing some templates for myself with a similar design in mind, and I'm totally going to rip off some ideas from you here.

[justo8484]

Follow up to my previous post... went to use the new jig the other night and found that the diameter of the holes in the toe and heel templates are not wide enough for the wintersteiger stepped bits that I have. Seems odd, because every real jig I've ever used uses the same larger diameter stepped bit. I guess I could drill out the 3D printed jig to account for the larger diameter of the stepped bit, but that seems like it potentially introduces more margin for error. Anyone else print this thing out and notice this? Maybe something got messed up with the files I downloaded and printed?

[rfconroy]

Follow up to my previous post... went to use the new jig the other night and found that the diameter of the holes in the toe and heel templates are not wide enough for the wintersteiger stepped bits that I have. Seems odd, because every real jig I've ever used uses the same larger diameter stepped bit. I guess I could drill out the 3D printed jig to account for the larger diameter of the stepped bit, but that seems like it potentially introduces more margin for error. Anyone else print this thing out and notice this? Maybe something got messed up with the files I downloaded and printed?

That's pretty common with FDM parts. They tend to come out about 10-15% undersized. If you up the number of walls that you print with and hone out with the appropriately size bit, you should be fine.

For reference I printed my Kingpin jigs with 3 walls with a 0.4mm nozzle, and got great alignment.

[oldirty]

Wow I'm blown away by the input here and the inginuity that this thread sparked. Some of the other ideas look awsome! Took a breif hiatus from this a while back and never really got back to it to wrap things up, which is unfortunate because I put a lot of time into the initial design.

Thanks to @pdails for giving me nudge to snake the dust of this project and actually get it out there for people to use.

Current status:
- Before totally dropping the ball I this I was able to build the first prototype which came out suprising good. See crappy cell phone pic below.


Future plans:
- Share stl and CAD files. I'm looking for a better public repository than thingiverse, mostly to handle versioning/configuration, but may have to just build it.
- Design/build more patterns. Currently only have Look/FKS Pivot (only binding that matters...)
- Put together/sell parts kits to make things easy for people since a lot this stuff you have to buy in bulk to reduce cost (threaded rod, couplings, etc.)

Hoping to have somehting live for you all in the next few days. Stay tuned!

[justo8484]

Future plans:
- Share stl and CAD files. I'm looking for a better public repository than thingiverse, mostly to handle versioning/configuration, but may have to just build it.

it's not at all designed for 3d printer files, but github would handle your versioning, and a pretty basic shell script could compile the files you'd need for a specific binding. so someone who wants to print it could download from the github repository, navigate to the download directory in terminal/dos prompt, and run something like...

./make pivot
./make sth

and it would grab all the files needed for that specific binding and put em in an output folder or zip that you send to the printer. happy to help if it's something you're interested in but don't have the nerd skillz.

[yiu-han]

Check out GrabCAD.com
A nice Engineering and industrial design community.

[RiderDeTerre]

Hi,

I designed and share the one on thingiverse.
I'll be uploading other bindings templates : salomon, dynafit, atk...

Depending on your printer it can shrink holes a bit. I will probably update for a v2 with a bit more play.

Also I'm building a small video to show how to use it.

It's not perfect but i've mounted several skis with it. I'm happy for feedbacks and comments

[oldirty]

it's not at all designed for 3d printer files, but github would handle your versioning, and a pretty basic shell script could compile the files you'd need for a specific binding. so someone who wants to print it could download from the github repository, navigate to the download directory in terminal/dos prompt, and run something like...

./make pivot
./make sth

and it would grab all the files needed for that specific binding and put em in an output folder or zip that you send to the printer. happy to help if it's something you're interested in but don't have the nerd skillz.

Great idea, that would be pretty cool. I suck at shell scripts, could you point me in the right direction?

I've got a wiki style site in the works that will have the files and an assembly guide. Should have live in next few days.

What's the opinion on the drill inserts? The mcmaster bushings are definitely nice, but looking through the posts here it seems like there is some concern on cost (~$35). I think stacked nuts would be a suitable replacement at around 2-3$ but kinda ghetto.

[abraham]

Great idea, that would be pretty cool. I suck at shell scripts, could you point me in the right direction?

I've got a wiki style site in the works that will have the files and an assembly guide. Should have live in next few days.

What's the opinion on the drill inserts? The mcmaster bushings are definitely nice, but looking through the posts here it seems like there is some concern on cost (~$35). I think stacked nuts would be a suitable replacement at around 2-3$ but kinda ghetto.

I've thought something like openscad patterns + some scripting would be a good way for people to play with mounting patterns, offsets and hole conflicts. But I haven't done any work on this. Best would be a way to mark the existing holes as well. Then you could decide how close you want the holes to be to each other, and decide how to adjust mount points and position in the bsl range to make a certain setup work. It's not worth it for most people though.