Big Metal Salomon Bindings s920, 900s, 11-17, 9-16, 14-20

[JTrue]

End of an era, I don't really ski the resort anymore. 4 sets of Salomon Bindings FS, 1 lone 9-16 toe. Might need to source a couple parts but mostly complete. Let me know what your interested in. What's the going price for these? $50 OBO per pair + shipping?

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[2FUNKY]

Sweet jesus the amount of badass solly bindings lately......

[1000-oaks]

No kidding, disassemble any of them, clean, and regrease with G3 binding grease and they'd work like new. Can also update AFD's with STH-16 AFD's, which are still available last I checked.

[PlayItLeo]

What’s the din on the silver 997s (the pair above the yellow Star Wars 997s)?


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[ohsnowflake]

Anyone know where to get non-wtr2 afd’s?


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[JTrue]

What’s the din on the silver 997s (the pair above the yellow Star Wars 997s)?


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Believe they are 14-20, I'll check in the morning.

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[Norseman]

Nice... kinda want Star Wars 997 but would just be for hoarding.

Bump

[OldSchool1080s]

No kidding, disassemble any of them, clean, and regrease with G3 binding grease and they'd work like new. Can also update AFD's with STH-16 AFD's, which are still available last I checked.

Do you have a way to source these STH16 / FFG16 AFDs? Is there a way to order from them from Salomon / Atomic?


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[1000-oaks]

Do you have a way to source these STH16 / FFG16 AFDs? Is there a way to order from them from Salomon / Atomic?

I don't personally, but I've had skis shops that are Salomon dealers special order them. They run about $20 a pair, if memory serves. I need to put in another order myself actually, it's handy to have a bag of them around to update old 900-series or older bindings.

In the catalog, STH-12 and STH-14 AFD's (for 900-series and probably earlier 4-screw toes with plastic pedestals) are listed as "10447501 AFD Plate STH14 Driver". I might still have a leftover bag from the STH-16 version (for 916 and earlier toes with aluminum pedestals) with the part number, will check in the next few days.

[JTrue]

I don't personally, but I've had skis shops that are Salomon dealers special order them. They run about $20 a pair, if memory serves. I need to put in another order myself actually, it's handy to have a bag of them around to update old 900-series or older bindings.

In the catalog, STH-12 and STH-14 AFD's (for 900-series and probably earlier 4-screw toes with plastic pedestals) are listed as "10447501 AFD Plate STH14 Driver". I might still have a leftover bag from the STH-16 version (for 916 and earlier toes with aluminum pedestals) with the part number, will check in the next few days.

Too lazy to search, but maybe they are listed here?

[ohsnowflake]

Thx all. Heard a rumor they discontinued but shop ask is worth a trip. Cheers.


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[1000-oaks]

^ Hope it's not true, I need some.

[Vitamin I]

I have a huge stash of these parts, but cannot offer to y'all until I first use the best parts to mount ~30 pairs of skis. Maybe I can offer up around Thanksgiving.

I will likely have extra toe AFD's, but only the oldskool style. I doubt I will have any extra brake housings, but yes a million brake arms. I will likely have screws, but can't just easily grab them and ship---takes forever to sort through my pile.

Looks to me in JTrue's photos like:
1. The pair mounted to white skis: Good to go, just buy it, and optionally buy JB Stick to repair the toe wings.
2. Silver & Yellow: Needs brakes and screws, then good to go.
3. Yellow pair: Needs brakes, screws, JB Stick for toe wings (optional), then can just ski on those worn toe AFD's. Or optionally upgrade to the pair of toe AFD's in very top row of photo. Or optionally I might have oldskool toe AFD's in better condition for you around Thanksgiving.
4. Red 920's: That's a problem. It's heels are missing the silver part that goes under the brakes. Maybe JTrue can harvest those parts from the other pairs in the photo, but then same problem for the donor pair. Best chance here is to ask JTrue to search though his whole garage for those silver parts. If they're not in his garage, then I forecast that they are very, very hard to find (unless you harvest from another pair in the wild, leaving that donor pair with same problem). If you find those parts, then this pair still needs brakes, screws, and toe AFD's. I might have oldskool toe AFD's in better condition for you around Thanksgiving.

The bindings are valuable. IMO, the hassle of dealing with sourcing spare parts is the primary reason to drop prices on these models. So if not much hassle, then makes sense pay higher price.

.

[doebedoe]

No kidding, disassemble any of them, clean, and regrease with G3 binding grease and they'd work like new. Can also update AFD's with STH-16 AFD's, which are still available last I checked.

Any thread with more info on the disassemble/regrease? Or is it pretty idiot proof? I've got a pair of absolutely mint 957s Equipes but they pretty obviously need some freshening up. Maybe skied 10 times in their life....

[2FUNKY]

Any thread with more info on the disassemble/regrease? Or is it pretty idiot proof? I've got a pair of absolutely mint 957s Equipes but they pretty obviously need some freshening up. Maybe skied 10 times in their life....

Extremely difficult. I’ve done a few and it takes a while plus special tools. You should just sell them to me for cheap and i will invest the time to grease and go over them as to not die skiing them.

[1000-oaks]

Once you turn the toe DIN screw to zero, backing out the height adjustment screw will lift the "fighter jet" head off the pedestal on STH and maybe 916. The older bindings may have height adjustment screws that are flared at the bottom so you can't remove the head, but a bit of work with a Dremel would probably take care of that. Once the head is off the pedestal, you can wipe off the old dry grease and slather on fresh G3 binding grease on the pedestal (both front and back) and reinstall the head. You want grease on the stainless wrap on the front, and grease in the two vertical channels on the back, where the two tabs in the head ride against the pedestal.

There's a hinged metal flap in the head that has to be moved out of the way before the head can drop back onto the pedestal, so if you try to tighten the height adjustment screw and it suddenly stops, you need to remove the head and move the flap out of the way. Make sure the DIN screw is almost completely backed out, so that the spring isn't pushing on the hinged flap when you're trying to install the head. Position the parts so gravity doesn't flop the flap into the wrong position while you're doing it.

On the wormscrew heel, about all you can do is look under the heel cup and clean the big white plastic ramped cam as best you can, and regrease the top portion that slides inside the heel cup when you step into the binding. A lot of dust and grit builds up on that cam, especially during dirty Spring skiing.

You can also adjust the heel as far back as it will go, and clean and regrease as much of the track as you can access. Then move the heel all the way forward, and clean and regrease as much of the back of the track as you can. The heel moves in the track as the ski flexes, so being clean and greased is good for the mechanism.

It probably doesn't make much difference, but you can also remove the DIN springs to clean and regrease. Make sure to pay attention to the sequence of shims, the spring, and washers and reassemble the same way. If memory serves, it's easiest to start the heel DIN adjustment cap threads with the heel cup in the "down" position, as if the boot is snapped in. If you try to start the threads with the heel cup in the "up" position, you'll have a hell of a time.

[JTrue]

What’s the din on the silver 997s (the pair above the yellow Star Wars 997s)?


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14-20, let me know if you're interested

[doebedoe]

Extremely difficult. I’ve done a few and it takes a while plus special tools. You should just sell them to me for cheap and i will invest the time to grease and go over them as to not die skiing them.

I guess I'll just ship them to you. 1000-oaks sounds like I'll kill myself.

Are you sure a DIN 16 binding is enough for you though?

Once you turn the toe DIN screw to zero, backing out the height adjustment screw will lift the "fighter jet" head off the pedestal on STH and maybe 916. The older bindings may have height adjustment screws that are flared at the bottom so you can't remove the head, but a bit of work with a Dremel would probably take care of that. Once the head is off the pedestal, you can wipe off the old dry grease and slather on fresh G3 binding grease on the pedestal (both front and back) and reinstall the head. You want grease on the stainless wrap on the front, and grease in the two vertical channels on the back, where the two tabs in the head ride against the pedestal.

There's a hinged metal flap in the head that has to be moved out of the way before the head can drop back onto the pedestal, so if you try to tighten the height adjustment screw and it suddenly stops, you need to remove the head and move the flap out of the way. Make sure the DIN screw is almost completely backed out, so that the spring isn't pushing on the hinged flap when you're trying to install the head. Position the parts so gravity doesn't flop the flap into the wrong position while you're doing it.

On the wormscrew heel, about all you can do is look under the heel cup and clean the big white plastic ramped cam as best you can, and regrease the top portion that slides inside the heel cup when you step into the binding. A lot of dust and grit builds up on that cam, especially during dirty Spring skiing.

You can also adjust the heel as far back as it will go, and clean and regrease as much of the track as you can access. Then move the heel all the way forward, and clean and regrease as much of the back of the track as you can. The heel moves in the track as the ski flexes, so being clean and greased is good for the mechanism.

It probably doesn't make much difference, but you can also remove the DIN springs to clean and regrease. Make sure to pay attention to the sequence of shims, the spring, and washers and reassemble the same way. If memory serves, it's easiest to start the heel DIN adjustment cap threads with the heel cup in the "down" position, as if the boot is snapped in. If you try to start the threads with the heel cup in the "up" position, you'll have a hell of a time.

Thanks for taking the time to type that out. I'd hate to send these to someone like 2FUNKY.

[PlayItLeo]

14-20, let me know if you're interested

My heart says yes but my brain and knees say no. Too rowdy for me.


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[JTrue]

Bump, who needs these?