Outback brakes

[Norseman]

Read an article rerecently that said most rotors that are diagnosed as warped are not... but instead just have uneven deposits of brake pad material.

Most cars in Murica are automatics now, so brakes have to be held at every stop. If the pads are hot enough, they'll leave a little bit of material on the rotors which can get glazed on with subsequent use.

[ill-advised strategy]

no shit...
that makes sense

[Cocximus]

Read an article rerecently that said most rotors that are diagnosed as warped are not... but instead just have uneven deposits of brake pad material.

Most cars in Murica are automatics now, so brakes have to be held at every stop. If the pads are hot enough, they'll leave a little bit of material on the rotors which can get glazed on with subsequent use.

It's weird my A4 rear disks have the pad lines impregnated in them. I think it's from parking it for over a month with the handbrake pulled. No vibrations though. The brakes also last much much longer. They see hard mountain descents and BC wet roads. 10+ years old audi FTW.

I am waiting for Raybestos Element3 disks and pads. Those were the only somewhat semi-metallic pads I found. No true semi metallic pads for the outback. I really hate how these days most cars only have ceramic.

[SumJongGuy]

Read an article rerecently that said most rotors that are diagnosed as warped are not... but instead just have uneven deposits of brake pad material.

Most cars in Murica are automatics now, so brakes have to be held at every stop. If the pads are hot enough, they'll leave a little bit of material on the rotors which can get glazed on with subsequent use.

Well, that would be resolved when the rotors are turned right? Went through two cycles of that, two full brake jobs where I was billed for turning the rotors but the shimmy wasn't resolved until the rear rotors were replaced.

[Rideski]

Most cars in Murica are automatics now, so brakes have to be held at every stop. If the pads are hot enough, they'll leave a little bit of material on the rotors which can get glazed on with subsequent use.

I might left the brake off a bit early anticipating a green on a flat, or even letting a little roll happen if slight downhill to assist with acceleration. But for the most part, brake is applied at all stops while sitting there waiting fiddling with radio looking out window etc in every manual vehicle I’ve owned.

[Cocximus]

Unfortunately turning rotors costs as much as a new one here.

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[uglymoney]

Unfortunately turning rotors costs as much as a new one here.

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Buy the rotor from Rock Auto or Amazon. Don't get the cheapest available. I like the ones that are coated in by the hub. You will save big on rotors over the local parts store. Lube the pins and change the pads on both sides, make sure you put new slider brackets in that come with the pads. I like the ceramic/metallic hybrid pads myself. Quiet, less dust, and still good braking power but more $$$ for sure. Should be good to go unless by some chance the caliper is siezed up - which would be rare for such a new car - you should be able to tell once you have it apart - the puck should push back in smoothly and easily and make sure the puck boot is in good shape. All this stuff sits on the back of the car and gets hammered by salt. Definitely seems early to have problems though. I just replaced the pads for the first time on the back of our Prius at 150 ish k. Pins were still moving but definitely low on lube.

[Cocximus]

I installed the new brakes and disks. I ended up picking the Raybestos "element3" series. The Akenono ProACT, also have good reviews but the Raybestos have a higher friction coefficient of GG vs FF(stock, akebono, and all other aftermarket pads). Supposedly the Akebono last longer but the Raybestos have very excellent bite and modulation. I am very impressed with the new brakes on the outback.

Here are the part numbers for the disks and pads for the 5th gen outback
RAYBESTOS EHT1078H
RAYBESTOS EHT1808
RAYBESTOS 980377FZN
RAYBESTOS 981956FZN

Here is the break in procedure
http://www.raysbestbrakes.com/raybes...ation_tips.php

And the subaru service manual
http://www.mediafire.com/file/tt1iwu...%2529.zip/file


So there was nothing wrong with the calipers. Nothing seized or rusty. It's a bit hard to explain why it needed new disks, almost as hard as explaining why an awd wheels spin freely on the back.

I can see thy it is is very important to lube the sliders often. The rear sliders are exposed with the elements, they don't have a protective boot. I will order a few spares to keep on hand.



The old disks had a lot of pad material deposited on them. Probably that was the cause of the vibrations. The pads are being used up so it's not like deposits bed in and they don't get cleared.

[ill-advised strategy]

almost as hard as explaining why an awd wheels spin freely on the back]

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ans?highlight=

[glademaster]

I might left the brake off a bit early anticipating a green on a flat, or even letting a little roll happen if slight downhill to assist with acceleration. But for the most part, brake is applied at all stops while sitting there waiting fiddling with radio looking out window etc in every manual vehicle I’ve owned.

The difference is that with a manual, your foot is on the brake and the car is in neutral, or the clutch is fully depressed, so the brakes are only holding the car against gravity, if you're stopped on a hill. In an auto, you're still sending power to the drive wheels at a stop, and using the brakes to resist that force unless you shift into P or N at every stoplight.

[Rideski]

Ok valid point probably accounts for minimal extra pressure but I think the computer stops sending torque when your foot is not in the gas, brake is on, and at dead stop. But either way, hot components touching at stops.

[Cocximus]

Maybe it has to do with pad formulation and rotors, some are more prone to deposits. It's not like autos and hard driving are a new thing.

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