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Thread: Outback brakes

  1. #1
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    Outback brakes

    2017 outback with 30K miles has a vibration from the back when braking. Car went to the dealer who says it needs new pads and disks. Supposedly the pads are worn down to 30%(dealers always say that) and the disks are warped. Dealer says they are consumable, no warranty. I haven't opened it yet to look at it, but I find it very hard to believe normal wear and tear would wear down the pads at 30k miles. The disks should not have warped, it never saw a hill or towing. Is this a common issue on the outback?

  2. #2
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    I have a 2016 Outback and during the 60,000 mile service had the pads and rotors replaced, so we got twice the mileage you did. This one drives from sea level to 7K weekly during ski season so it sees hills but the rest is around town driving, lots of stop and go.

    Those % that folks report are inaccurate at best, until the pads are pulled or at least the wheel pulled it is a guess. Looking at a pad that is less than half and inch thick, probably closer to 0.400" and with out measuring call out the thickness remaining in 10% (0.040" which is less than a 1/16 of an inch) at a time is mostly guessing.

  3. #3
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    Replacing pads and rotors is stupid easy to do yourself. No reason to have a dealer do it unless you just like throwing money away. Order an upgraded kit from Rock Auto and call it good.
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    All ye punterz! Leave thine stupid heavy skis in the past, or at least in the resort category, for the age of lightweight pussy sticks is upon us! Behold! Keep up with the randocommandos on their carbon blades of shortness! Break thine tibias into spiral splinters with pintech extravagance!

  4. #4
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    Dealer is probably full of shit in regards to pad life, but if the rotors are warped just DIY pads and rotors. Of course they shouldn't need done at 30k, but it is what it is.

  5. #5
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    Do you tow or Carry weight in the hatch? Do you jack up the brakes hard often? 30k isnít much for brakes, especially rear brakes

  6. #6
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    I did the brakes (pads and rotors) on my 14 Forester at about 40k miles. Pads were quite low and I did the rotors too because they were cheap and pad slapping is such a crap shoot. Pro tip - if you DIY Subi brakes and you grease the caliper pins make sure you only use silicon brake grease.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  7. #7
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    Doing the brakes is easy. I asked only because the rotors should not warp on a car that's granny driven. Dealers like to blame the stuff they don't cover before addressing the real issue. I just been told that the disks rust and pit creating uneven braking on these outbacks. Also I guess a sticky caliper can cause these vibrations.

    What are some good brands and models of pads on rockauto? My usual manufacturer does not make pads for Subaru.

  8. #8
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    I’ve got no proof but I’m guessing Subaru doesn’t go out of their way to source outstanding and long lasting pads and rotors for their factory brake systems.

    Not a lot of variety on Rock Auto for Subaru pads and rotors. Don’t know the Power Stop brand. I’ve had pretty good luck with AC Delco rotors and Wagner pads. (I buy them from Amazon.) But like many things there are hundreds of different opinions.
    Last edited by Obstruction; 10-08-2019 at 05:21 AM.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  9. #9
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    Try EBC brand


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    Doing the brakes is easy. I asked only because the rotors should not warp on a car that's granny driven. Dealers like to blame the stuff they don't cover before addressing the real issue. I just been told that the disks rust and pit creating uneven braking on these outbacks. Also I guess a sticky caliper can cause these vibrations.

    What are some good brands and models of pads on rockauto? My usual manufacturer does not make pads for Subaru.
    Are you somewhere with a lot of road salt?
    Salt rust sticks the caliper, the sticky caliper gets everything super hot, then you hit a puddle and stuff warps. That’s the guess that makes the most sense to me.

  11. #11
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    get a second opinion make sure it's not the wheel bearings

  12. #12
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    Yars ago we never used to change rotors cuz they didnt warp cuz they were heavier

    somewhere in there rotors became lighter and lighter and then there was the service bulletin to use a tork wrench on hondas or the rotors would warp just from being a ham fisted tire guy

    now all rotors warp
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #13
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    Take it to a brake place. Chances are the rotors, being close to new, don't need replacement, just turning (machining back to true/flat) - something the dealer probably does not even do. And chances are you don't need pads just yet. And chances are it's only one wheel (your initial post suggests the dealer said both sides).

    That should save you a bunch of money.

    Make sure you have them check for a stuck rotor, being the most likely cause. And actually, while it's hard to dispute that rotors and pads are "consumable", a stuck caliper might be something eligible for warranty coverage.

    EDIT: stuck caliper, not rotor

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by skizix View Post
    <snip> And actually, while it's hard to dispute that rotors and pads are "consumable", a stuck rotor might be something eligible for warranty coverage.
    I don't think it should be *that* hard to dispute rotors being "consumable" - I think that's horseshit on the dealer's part.

  15. #15
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    Easy to check for sticking caliper. Inner pad will be far more worn than outer. If the calipers is badly stuck the car will pull in the direction of that wheel, rotor will be unchristly hot and May also be discolored.

    Another thing worth noting is the rear disc brakes on these cars are pretty damn small. What may seem like fairly light braking is a work out for a set of relatively tiny rotors and pads.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    Don’t know the Power Stop brand.
    I've had Power Stop rotors and pads on the front of my Tundra for 75k miles. They're solid.
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    All ye punterz! Leave thine stupid heavy skis in the past, or at least in the resort category, for the age of lightweight pussy sticks is upon us! Behold! Keep up with the randocommandos on their carbon blades of shortness! Break thine tibias into spiral splinters with pintech extravagance!

  17. #17
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    Jesus. My factory pads lasted 60k on the front and 90k on the back.
    Training for Alpental

  18. #18
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    I had a similar problem in my 09 Forester. Going through rear brakes every 25-30K with a shimmy when braking hard. Warped rotors.. Replaced and now getting way more miles out if brakes with no shimmy.
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhiberAwptik View Post
    Jesus. My factory pads lasted 60k on the front and 90k on the back.
    I bought my last car with 14k miles on it. Never had to replace front or rear pads, before I was totaled (hail) at 108k.

    A sticking caliper (even intermittently) could explain both the warped rotor and pads wearing quickly.

  20. #20
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    Wouldn't a sticky caliper boil the brake fluid? The temperature required to warp a rotor is very high. Boiling brake fluid would be very noticeable.

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  21. #21
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    Nope. Not in my experience with multiple stuck calipers and warped rotors. Never got a soft pedal.
    A few people feel the rain. Most people just get wet.

  22. #22
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    I have had good luck with Wagner Thermo Quiet Pads. Checked Rock Auto and they have them for $25. Being a newer vehicle I would have them turned, O'Reilly does that for $15.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    Wouldn't a sticky caliper boil the brake fluid? The temperature required to warp a rotor is very high. Boiling brake fluid would be very noticeable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wooley12 View Post
    Nope. Not in my experience with multiple stuck calipers and warped rotors. Never got a soft pedal.
    Another no.. Never had to add brake fluid. Heard the pad chirping, for a day or two then horrid metal on metal grinding noises, taken in immediately on hearing that. But always checked the brake fluid when the chirping and grinding started, never saw a brake light either. Was the third brake job when they replaced the rear rotors and the shimmy was resolved and hasn't come back.
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  24. #24
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    I had a sticking caliper after a brake job on the ranger, the brake just got really hot like smelling hot/too hot to touch in 10kms
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    The temperature required to warp a rotor is very high.
    The x factor is puddles. Hot brake meets cold puddle.

    Somebody said earlier in the thread, they're warping easier than they used to...chinesium

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