Ask the experts

[D(C)]

Nope. With the bolt on option you need to use the pinch bolt every time.

Cool, thanks. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing something wrong.

[huckbucket]

Anyone want to comment on my options for single-sided, crankarm-based power for this bike? Thanks in advance!

[BigHerm]

I love my Onyx Vesper hubs. Bought them for a MiddleChild hardtail build, moved them over to a Wildcat V2 (120mm Horst link). I did have to warranty the hub when it froze after 4 months but Onyx took excellent care of me and replaced the bearings as well as all internals. No problems since the warranty work (~700 miles).

The silence is great and the instant engagement is helpful on the tech. I don't notice the pedal kickback on my current bike. It is funny that World Cup DH and EWS riders are using Ochain devices to eliminate pedal kickback by decreasing engagement.

I'll update when I move the wheelset over to a long travel bike.

[Dee Hubbs]

Anyone want to comment on my options for single-sided, crankarm-based power for this bike? Thanks in advance!

Thats a bike is 2017 right?
Stages makes a single sided left hand crank for that model. Compatible with existing Cannondale Hollowgram Si crank models - 2014 or newer and Hollowgram SiSL2 cranks with integrated self-extracting bolt.
Its only $375 for the arm (or $325 if you mail in your arm).


Link to: Stages Power Meter

Their 3rd generation models have really good reliability, constancy and accuracy. I use mine on my Zwift set up and my power graph from may Wahoo trainer/Zwift are exactly the same as my Stages Power graphs.

EDIT:
I see they have a close out in 170mm for only $309, and a blemish in 165mm for $279
Make sure you have frame clearance of 10mm between the middle of your crank arm and your NDS chain stay.

[Rossymcg]

anyone rode a norco sight 2020 version? there's a bomber deal in my size fully loaded

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[huckbucket]

Thats a bike is 2017 right?
Stages makes a single sided left hand crank for that model. Compatible with existing Cannondale Hollowgram Si crank models - 2014 or newer and Hollowgram SiSL2 cranks with integrated self-extracting bolt.
Its only $375 for the arm (or $325 if you mail in your arm).


Link to: Stages Power Meter

Their 3rd generation models have really good reliability, constancy and accuracy. I use mine on my Zwift set up and my power graph from may Wahoo trainer/Zwift are exactly the same as my Stages Power graphs.

EDIT:
I see they have a close out in 170mm for only $309, and a blemish in 165mm for $279
Make sure you have frame clearance of 10mm between the middle of your crank arm and your NDS chain stay.

Thanks man. Yes, I think the bike is 2017 although might be 2018.

So if I find ANY OTHER hollogram complete crankset that fits my need (has power), then it will work with this BB?
Similarly, if I find ANY OTHER hollogram single arm with power then it will also work.

Noting in both cases that reliability may differ depending on the generation of pm

[Dee Hubbs]

Noting in both cases that reliability may differ depending on the generation of pm

My understanding was that Gen 1 to Gen 2 change was addressing the battery door functionality and slight tweaks to the hardware.
Gen 3 was a big upgrade to the chip/hardware, this is when they developed/released dual sided options and upgraded the whole line, including the single sided models.

[Huskier]

Noticed this after a particularly rough descent the other day. I want to say I've maybe see this one before but I also feel like it's definitely gotten larger recently. Frame experts: would you ride this bike?

[east or bust]

Not a frame expert, and fuck no


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[Dee Hubbs]

Noticed this after a particularly rough descent the other day. I want to say I've maybe see this one before but I also feel like it's definitely gotten larger recently. Frame experts: would you ride this bike?

Are you the only dentist in your practice, or can your clinic partner also perform reconstructive surgery?

[Kopi_Red]

Riding that bike seems again seems like a really good way to rearrange your face and get a new smile real quick...

[NW_SKIER]

I say go for it. But take video. Lots of it. You know, for us.

[Skistack]

The steerer tube should keep the frame from splitting in two. You’ll be fine.


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[John_B]

Frame meet dumpster. Or face meet asphalt. At least to me those seem like the two options.

[teledad]

Could be repairable, I’d look into repair options unless Cannondale will warranty it. Definitely wouldn’t just keep riding it.

[skaredshtles]

Noticed this after a particularly rough descent the other day. I want to say I've maybe see this one before but I also feel like it's definitely gotten larger recently. Frame experts: would you ride this bike?

...

[funkendrenchman]

Ripmo v2 or Stumpjumper Evo?

[Spencer123]

I recently warped my rear rotor quite badly from a long descent. I was already thinking about putting on a 180 mm rotor (from 160) so I am finally getting around to doing it.

My question is, the shop had one random adapter for 160-180 (Shimano XT, Post Mount, 2018 Intense Primer) laying around the back without any hardware. Are the current screws that came stock with the Brakes going to work to attach the Caliper and adapter, or are longer screws usually required?

Thanks for the help!

-Spencer

[toast2266]

Ripmo v2 or Stumpjumper Evo?

Geo is pretty similar on both. Ripmo if you want something with a snappier pedaling response at the expense of ground hugging traction. Stumpy if you want a more active suspension at the expense of pedaling efficiency.

[toast2266]

I recently warped my rear rotor quite badly from a long descent. I was already thinking about putting on a 180 mm rotor (from 160) so I am finally getting around to doing it.

My question is, the shop had one random adapter for 160-180 (Shimano XT, Post Mount, 2018 Intense Primer) laying around the back without any hardware. Are the current screws that came stock with the Brakes going to work to attach the Caliper and adapter, or are longer screws usually required?

Thanks for the help!

-Spencer

You'll need longer bolts.

[Spencer123]

You'll need longer bolts.

Thanks! That is what I was starting to suspect.

[Bluebird]

Likely asked and answered over the past 216 pages but I couldn't find it.

Bleeding sram brakes (both guide and code); I can generally get a pretty good bleed but every time I take the syringe off the lever side fluid comes out under some pressure. More than I think should and results (I think) in a softer feel than I should be getting. I do push down on the syringe and let go as I finish the bleed per instructions I have seen. Should I not be doing this? Any other tips? The videos show just a tiny bit of fluid coming out. I get way more.

[Boissal]

I was going to ask the experts about the best way to deal with an angry scratch on a stanchion but there was a pretty good video from GMBN on that very topic. I gave it a shot and am quite pleased with the results, went from this:



To this:



I started by filing the edges of the scratch with a tiny round file then went to 1500 grit sandpaper to flatten everything down. At that point the stanchion had lost its shine and looked terrible and I was not super optimistic. I used my best goth nail polish to fill the hole and let it dry overnight. I sanded the excess filler down to where I couldn't feel the edge of the patch (took a while, 1500 is as soft as toilet paper) and finished with green polishing compound and a microfiber cloth. 15 seconds of buffing and the stanchion was all shiny again. Funny how something like anodized alu which has a really hard surface can change if you rub it with what is essentially toothpaste.

I rode a couple hours or rough dusty trail and things are holding up. Nice to be able to fix that one, I can live with the looks of a scratched fork but trashing seals and bushings and having the oil fill with moondust after 5 rides would have pissed me off.

[meepmoop24]

Likely asked and answered over the past 216 pages but I couldn't find it.

Bleeding sram brakes (both guide and code); I can generally get a pretty good bleed but every time I take the syringe off the lever side fluid comes out under some pressure. More than I think should and results (I think) in a softer feel than I should be getting. I do push down on the syringe and let go as I finish the bleed per instructions I have seen. Should I not be doing this? Any other tips? The videos show just a tiny bit of fluid coming out. I get way more.

I also push down on the syringe and let it go back up before unscrewing it from the lever. In general, this will make a decent amount of fluid come out. If you have a spongy lever, it can help to stand the bike vertical, pull the lever to the bar (while the syringe is still attached) and use a rubber band/strap to hold it to the bar overnight. Sometimes additional air bubbles will come out and then you remove the syringe the next day.

[criscam]

Tubeless question....

Trying to set-up tubless on kids bike. Tubeless tires but not necc rims. Gorilla tape (couple layers), stans, inflated w compressor. It's holding air but the only concern is that when inflating, didn't necessarily get the "pop" i'd typically hear when the bead sets. Tried a couple times. Used some soapy water and cranked pressure up and still no defining "pop". Cause for concern or should be gtg?