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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #2626
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    in the trench
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    11,571
    Quote Originally Posted by evasive_MT View Post
    Kitsbow does, but $$$. I have Schoeller Dryskin -era Cloudveil that I love and want to keep going as long as I can.
    I could see kitsbow using it. I wonder how well kitsbow does. I wouldve thought they priced themselves out of the market. I like understated design but i think theyve gone past that right to bland as well

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  2. #2627
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    454
    Any magic tricks for seating a tire on a dented rim? My e13 rim has a couple sizable dents in both the sidewalls and rim bead that don't seem to cause issues while riding but are preventing me from seating a tire to replace one that I cut. Was thinking of trying to score some fancy wheels this winter so would like to try and keep this one going a bit longer and would prefer not to use a tube. Clearly new rims will need inserts, maybe I can get away with a slightly lighter tire to compensate but the new england rocks are sharp.

  3. #2628
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    28,052
    Bend it back?
    There aren’t really any other ‘tricks’ that I know about. I use a crescent wrench or Snap On duck bill pliers.
    Anyone else?
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  4. #2629
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Hell Track
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    9,839
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Bend it back?
    There aren’t really any other ‘tricks’ that I know about. I use a crescent wrench or Snap On duck bill pliers.
    Anyone else?
    Same. I just bend sidewalls back with a crescent wrench. Just gotta be careful to not crack the rim.

    They'll never be perfect, but depending on the dent, I can usually get them passably straight.

  5. #2630
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    2,925
    Same trick with crescent wrench here

  6. #2631
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Seattle
    Posts
    454
    Issue seems to be the dent in the rim bed leaking while trying to seat not sure I can bend that back.

  7. #2632
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    The Fish
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    3,380
    Quote Originally Posted by carlh View Post
    Issue seems to be the dent in the rim bed leaking while trying to seat not sure I can bend that back.
    https://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-T...-2012.html/url
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  8. #2633
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    439
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Bend it back?
    There arenít really any other Ďtricksí that I know about. I use a crescent wrench or Snap On duck bill pliers.
    Anyone else?
    Yup. Get it warm (alum less likely to crack when warm), get the biggest crescent you have, maybe even use another large flat piece of metal to brace the inside rim and outside edge to disperse the pressure. Slowly massage it back. Donít try to go all at once if itís a big one.

    I had to do this over the weekend, put a massive crease in my beater wheelset (bent the rim lip all the way against the rim tape). Thought for sure it was borked for good, but massaged it back and now itís holding 40psi tubeless.

  9. #2634
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    439
    Quote Originally Posted by carlh View Post
    Issue seems to be the dent in the rim bed leaking while trying to seat not sure I can bend that back.
    Missed this, wrap a couple extra layers of rim tape to cover the dent/bring the rim depth up to the tire edge.

  10. #2635
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
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    4,990
    I wouldn't mess too much with the rim. Yea, it helps aesthetically to straighten it, and we've all done it, but there's a fine line you'll cross where it cracks. And at that point you're fucked. A dented rim can be run all day. Best two approaches:
    1. Run a tube. I know it sounds shitty, but it works.
    2. Split tube, OG Ghetto tubeless. The tube needs to be hanging outside of the tire bead. Trim the excess. Essentially you're turning the tire into a tubular. Use lots of sealant. I've got a buddy who always ends up doing this by the end of DH season since he absolutely hammers on his shit. It doesn't help that he keeps buying bikes with E13 wheels.
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  11. #2636
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Alamos, NM
    Posts
    1,614
    Tried the usual?
    Remove valve core, strap around tire, direct flow inflator?
    Also, lots of soapy water on the bead can help.

  12. #2637
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    454
    Yes tried all of those. Going to try and raise the rim bed dents with some gorilla tape and get it to seal and if that fails run a tube. Debating buying the well priced enves for sale here and fixing the problem properly.

  13. #2638
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Alamos, NM
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    1,614
    that was going to be my recommendation. Those Chris King / Enves are a stupid good deal. I'm a Chris King dealer and that's about half of my cost

  14. #2639
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Central VT
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    4,379
    My XT rear brake locked up on me. Squeezed the lever and the pads didn't retract, rear wheel locked up, then I moved the wheel a bit and it came free. It does this every time I pull the lever now. I've had many sets of Shimano brakes and never had this happen before.

    The brakes are probably 5-6 years old. Not sure if its worth fixing or replacing the caliper or just getting a new brake. Anyone have this issue?

  15. #2640
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    2,925
    Honestly junk them. Caliper rebuilds aren't worth it. You can buy the part separately since it is Shimano.

  16. #2641
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    5,539
    I kind of think my 12sp GX system sucks. The B-gap is just a pia. I've now adjusted everything more times in 3 months than I ever did in 4 years of my 11 sp. So the question...does the upgrade on the shifter do anything? I've upgraded derailleurs and felt the difference, but didn't notice a shifter improvement. Is it there?

  17. #2642
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wasatch
    Posts
    5,940

    Ask the experts

    Best Schrader after market valve???? Mine are crap and popped out of tire when loosening the cap.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Last edited by whyturn; 10-21-2020 at 02:06 PM.
    I need to go to Utah.
    Utah?
    Yeah, Utah. It's wedged in between Wyoming and Nevada. You've seen pictures of it, right?

    So after 15 years we finally made it to Utah.....


    Thanks BCSAR and POWMOW Ski Patrol for rescues

    8, 17, 13, 18, 16, 18, 20, 19, 16

    2018/2019 (24/32)

  18. #2643
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Treading Water
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    4,990
    Quote Originally Posted by HankScorpio View Post
    My XT rear brake locked up on me. Squeezed the lever and the pads didn't retract, rear wheel locked up, then I moved the wheel a bit and it came free. It does this every time I pull the lever now. I've had many sets of Shimano brakes and never had this happen before.

    The brakes are probably 5-6 years old. Not sure if its worth fixing or replacing the caliper or just getting a new brake. Anyone have this issue?
    Remove caliper from frame mounts, remove pads, tilt lever so that itís kinda horizontal.
    Remove lever bleed screw, insert oil funnel thing, half filled with oil.
    Lay down an old towel.
    Open bleed nipple until oil comes out. Is it pink or grey or black? If black, you need a bleed.
    Close nipple again while itís still 1/4-1/3 full.
    Squeeze lever a bunch of times. Notice only one of the pistons moves well.
    Dip a W-tip in fresh oil and clean the piston. Clean it good. Like itís your uncircumcised cock and youíre prepping for for your first BJ. Repeat with fresh Q-Tips until you can wipe the piston and it comes back clean. Just like you should be doing when you wipe your ass.
    Now, use a small spanner or ball head Allen wrench (5mm-ish) and push that clean piston back in.
    Next, use that same wrench and use it to hold down the clean piston while you squeeze the lever again. Eventually the other piston will work its way out. Clean it. Like itís your balls, same occasion. Push the piston back in when youíre done.
    Then squeeze the lever and see if the pistons are more equal. Theyíll never be perfectly 50/50 because of the caliper shape. But if they arenít close, lever, clean more, push back in, repeat.
    This will usually rejuvenate Shimano calipers.



    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  19. #2644
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Alamos, NM
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    1,614
    Quote Originally Posted by whyturn View Post
    Best Schrader after market valve???? Mine are crap and popped out of tire when loosening the cap.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Sounds like more of a rim issue. Are you sure that thing isn't drilled for Schrader?
    Anyway I've always been happy with the WTB brass ones. I avoid aluminum valves after snapping one off on the climb up burro pass.
    That was a long shitty day.

  20. #2645
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
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    8,766
    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    I kind of think my 12sp GX system sucks. The B-gap is just a pia. I've now adjusted everything more times in 3 months than I ever did in 4 years of my 11 sp. So the question...does the upgrade on the shifter do anything? I've upgraded derailleurs and felt the difference, but didn't notice a shifter improvement. Is it there?
    No. Upgrade to Shimano and sell me that GX shit for cheap.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  21. #2646
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Driggs
    Posts
    211
    Clipless pedals with the most binary "on/off" feeling? Basically, the least amount of float. Seems like the consensus is ranked from most float to least: Time, Shimano, HT, Crankbros? I want these things to be like a freaking light switch....

  22. #2647
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
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    736
    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    Clipless pedals with the most binary "on/off" feeling? Basically, the least amount of float. Seems like the consensus is ranked from most float to least: Time, Shimano, HT, Crankbros? I want these things to be like a freaking light switch....
    HT with the low-float cleats.

    They're so locked in that I can get the cleat position dialed on a given bike, but find myself wanting to move them depending on crank q-factor.

  23. #2648
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Alamos, NM
    Posts
    1,614
    Crank Brothers had a 0 float cleat that I put a lot of beginners into. They pretty much all loved them. I hated them because the slightest twitch popped me out.

  24. #2649
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    21,377
    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    Clipless pedals with the most binary "on/off" feeling? Basically, the least amount of float. Seems like the consensus is ranked from most float to least: Time, Shimano, HT, Crankbros? I want these things to be like a freaking light switch....
    that ^^ might be really hard on your knees
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #2650
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    736
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Crank Brothers had a 0 float cleat that I put a lot of beginners into. They pretty much all loved them. I hated them because the slightest twitch popped me out.
    Yeah, I haven't run Crank Brothers pedals in forever, but remember 1) them exploding a lot and 2) clipping out of them if I sneezed, or got caught by a gust of wind, or brushed against tall grass, etc.

    The HT pedals can run high enough tension to hold you in pretty securely. That goes double for the SX versions, which might as well just be bolted directly to your shoes at the high end of the tension range.

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