Page 194 of 222 FirstFirst ... 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 ... LastLast
Results 4,826 to 4,850 of 5550

Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4826
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    24,197
    This ^^ if you are asking if you need inserts you probably don't need them considering how much effort it was to instal a cushcore ime

    I have never even had a flat in the 3 yrs I've had the bike so i'm thinkin I can just spend that $ on a new tattoo or a vidya game insted of an insert
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #4827
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    1,000
    Thanks all. Seems like I donít need inserts currently. Iíll spend the money on other things.

  3. #4828
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Van
    Posts
    3,509
    I think the main advantage of inserts is being able to run super low pressures without instantly totalling your rim. If youíre running pressures youíre happy with, arenít going through rims and are getting enough support from your tire, inserts are not needed.

    I also thought the low pressures + inserts setup was more beneficial on a full suspension than a hardtail. It added small bump sensitivity that complemented the action of the suspension. On the hardtail, the ride was still bumpy while adding a bunch of weight.

    Iím no longer running inserts, instead running higher pressure.

  4. #4829
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Posts
    52
    I need some brake help. I was trying to fix a sticky piston and ended up popping one of the piston completely out of the caliper. Lost a lot of brake fluid and I put the piston back in as quick as I could. Obviously with the lost fluid the pistons wont move anymore. Is the fix just a brake bleed? Or is this something more complicated?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  5. #4830
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Matchbox 20
    Posts
    2,317
    Quote Originally Posted by troth View Post
    I need some brake help. I was trying to fix a sticky piston and ended up popping one of the piston completely out of the caliper. Lost a lot of brake fluid and I put the piston back in as quick as I could. Obviously with the lost fluid the pistons wont move anymore. Is the fix just a brake bleed? Or is this something more complicated?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I think a bleed is all you need. Just check that the seal is not kinked or something and I'd suggest pushing the piston all the way in while you do the bleed. Put a popsicle stick in between the pads and get as much air out of the piston chamber to make the bleed go faster. And then bleed as usual. Pretty sure I popped a piston one time and its no biggie. Sometimes people pop them when the wheel is out and they pull the brake levers unwares.
    OH, MY GAWD! ―John Hillerman  Big Billie Eilish fan.
    But that's a quibble to what PG posted (at first, anyway, I haven't read his latest book) ―jono
    we are not arguing about ski boots or fashionable clothing or spageheti O's which mean nothing in the grand scheme ― XXX-er

  6. #4831
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    721
    Brake adapteres somehow confuse me. Considering a frame with a IS brake mount, and they reccomend a IS/PM adapter --> PM185, or a IS/PM203 adapter.

    I'll probably run Codes with 200mm rotors, and haven't found a IS/PM200 adapter yet. What's the best way to solve this?
    - IS/PM, then PM185 to PM200 somehow?
    - IS/PM203, and run the Codes with 203 rotors?
    - IS/PM, then 15mm of spacers and whatnot

    Or am I just overthinking it?

  7. #4832
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,175
    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Brake adapteres somehow confuse me. Considering a frame with a IS brake mount, and they reccomend a IS/PM adapter --> PM185, or a IS/PM203 adapter.

    I'll probably run Codes with 200mm rotors, and haven't found a IS/PM200 adapter yet. What's the best way to solve this?
    - IS/PM, then PM185 to PM200 somehow?
    - IS/PM203, and run the Codes with 203 rotors?
    - IS/PM, then 15mm of spacers and whatnot

    Or am I just overthinking it?
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/col...mm-rear-rotors

  8. #4833
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    721
    Thanks.

    But that's just a great example of what makes my brain hurt. It's a 60mm adapter, won't it's compability with 200mm rotors depend on the frame and what size rotor the frame is "made" for?

  9. #4834
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,502
    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Thanks.
    But that's just a great example of what makes my brain hurt. It's a 60mm adapter, won't it's compability with 200mm rotors depend on the frame and what size rotor the frame is "made" for?
    The frame will always be "made" for a 140mm or 160mm IS standard. It will not be made for a 143mm? or something different.
    If you want to run SRAM 200's you buy a SRAM specific adapter mount for +60mm.
    If you want to run Shimano 203's you buy a Shimano specific mount adapter for +63mm.

    And for the people who say, just run your 200mm rotors with Shimano 203 set up, "it will be fine" dont know what they are talking about. It will cause brake pad overhang the rotor, and a lip will wear into the brake pad, and once the pads wear to a certain point, the 2 lips will touch and eventually the only thing that touches when you squeeze the brakes are the two pads allowing the rotors to freely spin with zero breaking.
    Propper adapters are less than $20, don't fuck around with washers or home made spacers.
    Name:  E1C9D5A3-0BD2-4F13-9F4A-8748DF19F2D9.jpeg
Views: 308
Size:  32.9 KB

  10. #4835
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    721
    There it is. Thanks to both of you.

  11. #4836
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    148

    Ask the experts

    Lots of insert hate. Only thing Iíll say itís a little reductionistic to say they are only for lower pressures/flat protection. Most are a pretty significant change in volume, so they change the riding characteristics of your tire pretty drastically. People spend a lot of time playing with spacers, air pressure, rebound, etc. on a fork/shock to find the ride that suits them, why not mess around with something that could drastically change the way your tire behaves? What sold me wasnít what someone said on a forum but just running with and without and liking the ďwithĒ in the rear better for my weight/riding/location and not caring about the weight ( I prefer a higher pressure in the front and didnít feel like it rode better at that pressure with insert). Obviously w/ supply and cost stuff right now itís harder to experiment but ride what you like. Still a cheaper thing to mess around with than a lot of other stuff in the bike world.

    Also, going to mess around with queso chains for road bike and stumbled upon the horse carcass of wax in this thread (at this point only a few hairs remain?). Amazing picking clean of that poor animal. Lol


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  12. #4837
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    126
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    DT Swiss Hub Bearing Specs.

    Anyone with wisdom and experience want to tackle this for me? Two local shops have failed and I don't want them identifying by dismantling if I can't find the parts to put them back together.

    240s J-Bend 6-bolt hubs. Bought used in 2017. Blue Giant/DT Swiss Labels (Glory Take-Offs)
    12 x 150 Rear with xD Freehub (no idea if it's 3 of the same size, or 3 totally different sizes)
    20 x 110 pre-boost Front (I'm 80% sure they're 6805)
    Does your hub have an ID number on it? Have you tried entering that number on the DT Swiss product support page?

    https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/product-support

  13. #4838
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    14,205
    I'm kinda on the fence about inserts again. Been running rear Cush Pro and nothing in the front since last October. 29". Insanely nice wheels that I got on a bro-deal (Enve M6). DD casing tires. Just rode two hard days at Silver practicing for the race next weekend. Pinged the front 2 or 3 times all weekend. Running only 21psi in the front and I weigh about 160lbs fully kitted up.

    Adding the weight of CC for long pedally sections seems crazy now. I have run CC Pro in the front before and you can really feel that extra weight.

    Only a few times did I feel like the tire didn't have enough support railing hard in a berm.

    Probably would have been a good idea to do back to back laps with and without front CC. The dampening in the front does help it feel glued, but I am also running a push coil conversion in a 36 and that already really helps the front end.

    I love tinkering and have a CC XC weight insert I could try in the front......but probably shouldn't fuck with it less than a week from the race.

  14. #4839
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,729
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I'm kinda on the fence about inserts again. Been running rear Cush Pro and nothing in the front since last October. 29". Insanely nice wheels that I got on a bro-deal (Enve M6). DD casing tires. Just rode two hard days at Silver practicing for the race next weekend. Pinged the front 2 or 3 times all weekend. Running only 21psi in the front and I weigh about 160lbs fully kitted up.

    Adding the weight of CC for long pedally sections seems crazy now. I have run CC Pro in the front before and you can really feel that extra weight.

    Only a few times did I feel like the tire didn't have enough support railing hard in a berm.

    Probably would have been a good idea to do back to back laps with and without front CC. The dampening in the front does help it feel glued, but I am also running a push coil conversion in a 36 and that already really helps the front end.

    I love tinkering and have a CC XC weight insert I could try in the front......but probably shouldn't fuck with it less than a week from the race.
    Just swap to a DH casing. More sidewall support, and more flat protection. And less weight gain than CC.

  15. #4840
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    14,205
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Just swap to a DH casing. More sidewall support, and more flat protection. And less weight gain than CC.
    Pretty nuts that the Assegai 29" MaxxGrip only has 29g difference between DD and DH.

  16. #4841
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,729
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Pretty nuts that the Assegai 29" MaxxGrip only has 29g difference between DD and DH.
    Huh. Yeah, I'm surprised it's that close too.

    That would seem to indicate that there's about the same amount of rubber in both the dd and dh. The dh would just have 2x 60 tpi casing, whereas the dd has 2x 120 tpi. I believe the dh would have a bigger butyl insert in the sidewall as well.

  17. #4842
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    14,205
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Huh. Yeah, I'm surprised it's that close too.

    That would seem to indicate that there's about the same amount of rubber in both the dd and dh. The dh would just have 2x 60 tpi casing, whereas the dd has 2x 120 tpi. I believe the dh would have a bigger butyl insert in the sidewall as well.
    Bought one and will probably try it on Friday's practice.

  18. #4843
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,729
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Bought one and will probably try it on Friday's practice.
    Nice. And good luck in the race! I've got a friend or two that're heading over for it. Should be a good time.

  19. #4844
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Driggs
    Posts
    326
    Bear with me, this may be a stupid question...

    I'm trying to figure out a (very) budget race timing system that's a step up from two stop watches and a clipboard. I feel like there should be some way to use the NFC reader on my phone, and cheap generic NFC chips ($10 for 30 on amazon type deal) to set up a race timing system. I am no programmer or app developer, but it seems like it should be really easy to have some kind of cloud based app that records each scan and then allows you to find the difference in time between the two scans, thus giving you race results. Have a person with an iPhone scan at the top, another at the bottom, synch their data, and boom, you're racing.

    I've done a fair amount of googling and all I can find are the professional level systems that cost as much to rent for a weekend as I'd want to spend total. Am I missing something obvious? Is this a pipe dream? It's freaking 2021, I feel like I should be able to jimmy rig a system that's more streamlined than the stopwatches we've been using since the 90's?

  20. #4845
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,729
    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    Bear with me, this may be a stupid question...

    I'm trying to figure out a (very) budget race timing system that's a step up from two stop watches and a clipboard. I feel like there should be some way to use the NFC reader on my phone, and cheap generic NFC chips ($10 for 30 on amazon type deal) to set up a race timing system. I am no programmer or app developer, but it seems like it should be really easy to have some kind of cloud based app that records each scan and then allows you to find the difference in time between the two scans, thus giving you race results. Have a person with an iPhone scan at the top, another at the bottom, synch their data, and boom, you're racing.

    I've done a fair amount of googling and all I can find are the professional level systems that cost as much to rent for a weekend as I'd want to spend total. Am I missing something obvious? Is this a pipe dream? It's freaking 2021, I feel like I should be able to jimmy rig a system that's more streamlined than the stopwatches we've been using since the 90's?
    What kind of race are you looking to time? DH races are easier to do cheap than enduro races (1 finish line with set start times vs. a bunch of finish lines with varying start lines).

    But regardless, pretty much every small / beer league race I've seen is still using stopwatches + clipboard. I think it's tough to improve on that for less than ~$500.

  21. #4846
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Creekside
    Posts
    1,543
    Are you thinking of something sewn to a race in, or stuck onto the bike? You need to watch with nfc devices, a lot of them won’t work stuck on metal, some have very limited range and others that don’t have these issues won’t work with the NFC readers in phones.

  22. #4847
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Driggs
    Posts
    326
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    What kind of race are you looking to time? DH races are easier to do cheap than enduro races (1 finish line with set start times vs. a bunch of finish lines with varying start lines).

    But regardless, pretty much every small / beer league race I've seen is still using stopwatches + clipboard. I think it's tough to improve on that for less than ~$500.
    Would probably be just for a DH (we have no DH racing here, I want beer league DH culture, and I'm better at organizing things than I am at racing so I'm trying to figure out how to put it on.)

    I'm happy to just do it the watches/clipboard way, but like, we have so much great technology available. NFC chips are so cheap and simple. I'm no programmer, but I feel like it shouldn't be that hard to make it happen?

    For Eldelredo: I'd probably sew up velcro bracelets with the chip in them. There are options like this that are already in a button form factor. From there, I'd just need an app that logs the time of each scan, along with the chip's "name" to a spreadsheet. Easy enough from there to use Excel functions to spit out the delta in time between scans. Right? Or am I an idiot?

    Having someone scanning at the top, and another at the bottom with an iPhone, seems a lot simpler and more streamlined than stopwatches to me, but maybe it's not. IDK, I may fuck around and buy some chips and experiment. I'd really like to have a timing system for both bike racing, and the occasional DIY skimo race in the winter. For some reason we do not compete enough doing fun things in the mountains here in the Tetons IMO.

    EDIT: I think I figured it out. This app if anyone is wondering. I'll give it a test in a week or so.

  23. #4848
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Donner Summit
    Posts
    968
    Not sure if it fits your budget, but this seems pretty close to what you're asking for: https://www.webscorer.com/race-timing-auto

  24. #4849
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,729
    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    Would probably be just for a DH (we have no DH racing here, I want beer league DH culture, and I'm better at organizing things than I am at racing so I'm trying to figure out how to put it on.)

    I'm happy to just do it the watches/clipboard way, but like, we have so much great technology available. NFC chips are so cheap and simple. I'm no programmer, but I feel like it shouldn't be that hard to make it happen?

    For Eldelredo: I'd probably sew up velcro bracelets with the chip in them. There are options like this that are already in a button form factor. From there, I'd just need an app that logs the time of each scan, along with the chip's "name" to a spreadsheet. Easy enough from there to use Excel functions to spit out the delta in time between scans. Right? Or am I an idiot?

    Having someone scanning at the top, and another at the bottom with an iPhone, seems a lot simpler and more streamlined than stopwatches to me, but maybe it's not. IDK, I may fuck around and buy some chips and experiment. I'd really like to have a timing system for both bike racing, and the occasional DIY skimo race in the winter. For some reason we do not compete enough doing fun things in the mountains here in the Tetons IMO.
    If you're just doing DH, see if you can pick up a used photocell / photogate finish line on ebay. Those things are, at their core, fairly simple. It's basically the same sensor that a garage door uses, hooked up to a clock. A lot of the ones that are designed around racing are a bit more complicated and therefore expensive, but you might be able to find a cheap one.

    At least to start with, you'd have a set start order, and you'd send racers at a set time. So the racer at the top would have to start at their designated time. But then the photogate at the bottom would record the exact time they crossed the line.

    Eventually, you could make it more accurate by having a second photgate at the top. But then you'd have to input all the data to calculate the exact time.

  25. #4850
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    5,463
    Sram GX 10 Speed Short Cage on my DH bike to replace a GX DH derailleur.
    Any reason I shouldn't do this? $60 for one vs $120 plus very hard to source for the other. Current derailleur is bent like a motherfucker, but still hanging in there. Just thinking forward during these sparse times.
    Last edited by jm2e; 06-07-2021 at 08:19 PM.
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •