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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #6351
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    ^ RaceFace only makes their direct mount Cinch rings with a 51mm chainline. This is good for boost. Most of the the aftermarket rings list 52mm as an ideal chainline.
    Here is a good explanation from OneUpComponents

  2. #6352
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    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    I dropped bike off at shop requesting fork service among other services, then called back the same day saying that the specific ask from the fork service was the top out issue which I failed to mention when I dropped it off.

    Picked it up from a different mechanic and forgot to check the top out as I was distracted pointing out some other items
    OK, well, that changes things if you were specific to diagnosing and potentially fixing a problem.
    At both of the shops I go to they always call during diagnostics on things like this because it's not 'just' a fork service.....
    Anyhow, I'd call and say I asked for this to be addressed, you guys had it all apart once, etc...
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
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  3. #6353
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    ^ RaceFace only makes their direct mount Cinch rings with a 51mm chainline. This is good for boost. Most of the the aftermarket rings list 52mm as an ideal chainline.
    Here is a good explanation from OneUpComponents
    Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  4. #6354
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    Need some insight from bike shop people about a hub warranty......

    In 2020 I bought a custom wheelset from Colorado Cyclist.com - Hope hubs on Race Face rims. Back in May, the rim cracks around the spoke nipple and Race Face replaces the rim under warranty but it was backordered for months so I went to the local shop and had them lace up the Hope hub with a new WTB rim. The RF rim eventually arrives so I keep it as a spare.

    A couple months later the Microspline freehub that came with said Hope hub cracks. I can't find one in stock so I swap the Microspline freehub and cassette with XD ones I already had.

    Fast forward a couple more months and the Hope hub fails (the notched ring that the pawls hook into started slipping inside the hub). Hope says contact the place you bought it from so Colorado Cyclist tells me to send the wheel and hub back. They just emailed me and are doubting that the hub I sent them is the one I bought from them due to a new rim and different freehub.

    Besides having dogshit luck with the wheel.....am I screwed here? I have documentation and pictures for broken rim and freehub. Can they deny my hub warranty because I had a new rim laced up and replaced the freehub? I don't think I'm in the wrong here and have a hunch they might tell me I'm SOL.

  5. #6355
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    Quote Originally Posted by HankScorpio View Post
    Need some insight from bike shop people about a hub warranty......

    In 2020 I bought a custom wheelset from Colorado Cyclist.com - Hope hubs on Race Face rims. Back in May, the rim cracks around the spoke nipple and Race Face replaces the rim under warranty but it was backordered for months so I went to the local shop and had them lace up the Hope hub with a new WTB rim. The RF rim eventually arrives so I keep it as a spare.

    A couple months later the Microspline freehub that came with said Hope hub cracks. I can't find one in stock so I swap the Microspline freehub and cassette with XD ones I already had.

    Fast forward a couple more months and the Hope hub fails (the notched ring that the pawls hook into started slipping inside the hub). Hope says contact the place you bought it from so Colorado Cyclist tells me to send the wheel and hub back. They just emailed me and are doubting that the hub I sent them is the one I bought from them due to a new rim and different freehub.

    Besides having dogshit luck with the wheel.....am I screwed here? I have documentation and pictures for broken rim and freehub. Can they deny my hub warranty because I had a new rim laced up and replaced the freehub? I don't think I'm in the wrong here and have a hunch they might tell me I'm SOL.
    Assuming the new free hub was the the appropriate Hope version (not a knockoff, if those exist), and assuming the hub is still under warranty, neither the changed rim nor replacing the free hub body should mean you’re denied warranty consideration.

    ETA: if Colorado Cyclist won’t help, I’d definitely go back to Hope themselves and explain the situation with the wheel/hub history, and let them know that that CC isn’t being cooperative.

  6. #6356
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    I think it's going to come down to the mood of the specific person you're dealing with.

    Personally, I would have swapped the microspline back onto the hub before sending it back. Does the hub have a serial number that you can refer to?

  7. #6357
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    Assuming the new free hub was the the appropriate Hope version (not a knockoff, if those exist), and assuming the hub is still under warranty, neither the changed rim nor replacing the free hub body should mean you’re denied warranty consideration.

    ETA: if Colorado Cyclist won’t help, I’d definitely go back to Hope themselves and explain the situation with the wheel/hub history, and let them know that that CC isn’t being cooperative.
    The XD freehub was from Hope some nothing to worry about there. I'll certainly go to Hope USA if they tell give me a no.

    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I think it's going to come down to the mood of the specific person you're dealing with.

    Personally, I would have swapped the microspline back onto the hub before sending it back. Does the hub have a serial number that you can refer to?
    Yeah, I probably should've swapped the freehub but that never crossed my mind. There should be a serial number in the hub so I hope they can verify that way. We shall see........

  8. #6358
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    You should be able to get a hub replacement but CC may be unwilling to rebuild it with the new hub since it's no longer a CC wheel. If that's the case I'd just ask for a new hub and for the rim and spokes to be sent back to you.

  9. #6359
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    Ask the experts

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    Is this the delicate part of the SLX 12 speed people are seeing break pretty easily? Wondering if upgrading it is worth it? It would be SLX vs XT, no way am I paying XtR price (or is it worth the premium?). I remember this being discussed somewhere around…

    Or the better question is whether there is a difference with slx vs xtr inner cage? I found one of each on eBay from overseas. They look the same, but is the material identical. Probably just order the cheaper and call it a day. Of course the shop where I bought the bike could not get the part. Standard even pre-pandemic.

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    Last edited by hick; 10-23-2021 at 04:03 PM.

  10. #6360
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    Rotors and Pads.
    Huge fail this year pairing the Magura 2.0mm thick Ebike rotors with MTX pads. Bedded in nice and quick, followed either a couple day or a couple weeks later by horrible squealing and howling. Tried sanding down the rotors and the pads and cleaning, to no avail. Better results with shimano pads on the Magura rotor, but at the end of the day, they both seemed like a total fail.
    Thinking about Galfer rotors and pads next, but fuckall that this ends up being another $175 experiment per bike.
    This is for bike park, DH rig, hammering on the brakes all day long. Steep and fast at Mtn Creek, Snowshoe & Windrock. Whatever works for trail riding just doesn't apply here.
    Any sage advice?
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  11. #6361
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    ^ Assuming Magura brakes? A MT5 or MT7 4 pot brake?
    Assuming the MTX Gold HD pads? not the Red RACE version?
    Magura MDR-P 2 piece or Magura MDR-C 1 piece? what size?
    How big of adapter is your frame and fork using to get to your desired rotor?
    What frame material is bike? Alu, Carbon, Steel?

  12. #6362
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    well you could try sanding them and then going to the top of a big mile long hill and do panic stops all the way down to bed them in which worked for me on a new FAT bike

    on a fox 36 with Shimanp brakes I would think it had gone away with the sanding/ panic stops but it would come back at partial application in the middle of a berm.

    I sold the bike and it was no longer my problem

    edit: to sand your pads is easy you just take em out & sand them but if you wana sand your rotors use one of those sanding rollers you chuck into a drill, angle the drill slightly and the roller will rotate the wheel/rotor as it sands

    or sell your bike to a medical professional with a lot of money
    Last edited by XXX-er; 10-31-2021 at 12:24 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #6363
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    Try Shimano rotors? Centerlines? I get silence with both of those. 1 bike has full Shimano brake setup, other bike is MT7's and Centerlines. Sintered pads on the Shimanos. No idea what on the Maguras. Probably whatever they came with. Hope they like sintered as I have those hanging around, but whatever oem is on them actually seems to last and not get messed up.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  14. #6364
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    ^ Assuming Magura brakes? A MT5 or MT7 4 pot brake?
    Assuming the MTX Gold HD pads? not the Red RACE version?
    Magura MDR-P 2 piece or Magura MDR-C 1 piece? what size?
    How big of adapter is your frame and fork using to get to your desired rotor?
    What frame material is bike? Alu, Carbon, Steel?
    Alloy DH bikes with Saint brakes. Went with the Magura 2.0mm rotors because we warp and bend 1.8 constantly. Went with MTX because you gotta try something with this supply shit show and had read more squeal stories about Galfer at the time.

    I’d stick with RT76 or Centerline if they had a thick version.


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    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  15. #6365
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Alloy DH bikes with Saint brakes. Went with the Magura 2.0mm rotors because we warp and bend 1.8 constantly. Went with MTX Gold because you gotta try something with this supply shit show and had read more squeal stories about Galfer at the time.

    I’d stick with RT76 or Centerline if they had a thick version.


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    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  16. #6366
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Alloy DH bikes with Saint brakes. Went with the Magura 2.0mm rotors because we warp and bend 1.8 constantly. Went with MTX because you gotta try something with this supply shit show and had read more squeal stories about Galfer at the time.

    I’d stick with RT76 or Centerline if they had a thick version.


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    https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/rt-hs-2-a1

  17. #6367
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    Valve stems that are impossible to open with fingertips likely due to Stans fluid, can they be cleaned or is it easier to just replace? Sick of using pliers to open and been putting off until end of season which seems right around the corner.

  18. #6368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    Valve stems that are impossible to open with fingertips likely due to Stans fluid, can they be cleaned or is it easier to just replace? Sick of using pliers to open and been putting off until end of season which seems right around the corner.
    You want to replace the valve core, not the full stem. Easy with a core remover tool, 2-minute job and no need to remove the tire. Presta cores are less than a buck apiece, get a bunch to have them around.

  19. #6369
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    If one does not overtighten valve stems they will undo with fingers, IME the little knurled roller should only be ... finger tight
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #6370
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    Jun 2020
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    294
    Anyone have experience with creaking/groaning under load with the new XT 8100 12-speed rear hubs?

    I’m having to take my freehub apart every dozen rides or so to clean and lube it. I know the original service manual said to only apply a little grease to the tips of the ‘fingers’ on the plastic spacer but more recent guidance says to be more generous, but no matter how generous I am with the grease, and no matter how meticulous I am with cleaning it all before reassembly, noise comes back in short order.

    Is this something they all do and either you live with it or replace the hub? Or is something worn/defective and replacing a part/whole freebody would solve the problem?

  21. #6371
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    are you sure where the noise is coming from, the hub or the interface between hub & frame ??
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #6372
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    Valve stems that are impossible to open with fingertips likely due to Stans fluid, can they be cleaned or is it easier to just replace? Sick of using pliers to open and been putting off until end of season which seems right around the corner.
    Pretty sure you need to upgrade to SRAM AirWiz.

  23. #6373
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    Feb 2014
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    Oh wait, my bad, you want Sram's TyreWiz.

  24. #6374
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    Quote Originally Posted by SKIP IN7RO View Post
    Oh wait, my bad, you want Sram's TyreWiz.
    Tyre is how they spell Tire in places everywhere but ‘merica.

  25. #6375
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    are you sure where the noise is coming from, the hub or the interface between hub & frame ??
    Yep, positive it’s coming from the freehub. Goes completely silent if I take it it apart and re-lube. Stays that way for a dozen rides before starting up again; repeat.

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