Ask the experts

[grskier]

I have a brake problem. It’s a Shimano XT 2 piston from a couple years ago. The lever is going all the way to the bars. I figured it’s air in the system so I bled it. I’ve probably bled brakes at least a hundred times, many of which were Shimano mineral oils. I followed the instructions exactly. After a bleed, the brake is ok but after a few squeezes, the lever goes limp, back to the bars. I don’t see a leak anywhere. If I pump the lever it will bite again but then it will lose power again. Weird. Anyone experienced this?

Edit for more info: just after a fresh bleed the brake feels fine but during a ride the lever goes all the way down. When I stop and pump the lever, it’ll feel fine again. I just ordered a new brake so I’ll be doing a post-mortem after it arrives.

Air is getting into the system somehow... either a seal somewhere or a pinhole... I had a pinhole in a line on some brakes a few years ago that would give me similar results.

[Rossymcg]

Air is getting into the system somehow... either a seal somewhere or a pinhole... I had a pinhole in a line on some brakes a few years ago that would give me similar results.

not always the case. I changed my hose that did feck all. I bled re bled and bled again with no air in the system but still was happening.

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[HAB]

Not exactly.They can modify the layup of the carbon to do myriads of different things; stiffness, weight, compliance, etc… High end carbon (either 31.8 or 35) where they actually engineered the layup for compliance will be noticeable.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

In theory, sure. But I've ridden a lot of high end carbon bars and absolutely prefer the ride of aluminum. I'm far from alone in that - tons of EWS and DH pros with sponsors who make both are also on aluminum and I'm pretty sure it's not because said sponsors would prefer that they ride the cheaper option.

[g_man80]

Just a follow up on shimano 12-speed clutches. My SLX clutch looks great after 12 months. Pictures are right after removing the cover and before any cleaning. Early last year I had two XT clutches go bad very quickly. I hope others are having good luck with the “newer” batch of derailleurs.

[Dee Hubbs]

^ I've been told by a reliable Shimano source that they have changed the process (amount and way) they now grease those points on the derailleurs.

[Falcon3]

Yeah there shouldn’t be any difference in clutch performance between the 11- and 12- speed Shimano clutches it’s the same basic engineering principles regardless of the overall side-to-side travel of the derailleur, and I’m sure they wouldn’t radically change materials between models. So the failures had to be from assembly issues. I’d feel good about the new process

[Canada1]

not always the case. I changed my hose that did feck all. I bled re bled and bled again with no air in the system but still was happening.

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

Look for weeping at the piston?

[Mr. Toad]

Air is getting into the system somehow... either a seal somewhere or a pinhole... I had a pinhole in a line on some brakes a few years ago that would give me similar results.

Yep, it was a VERY subtle leak at the lever. I cleaned the lever very carefully with alcohol, dried, re-cleaned, dried and after a ride there was seepage with dust on it. Lesson learned. P.S. The new 4 piston brakes rock.

[Rossymcg]

I'm setting up my coil shock with a coil that came stock on the bike. I've got my sag set correctly but when I lift the bike off the ground the spring isn't tensioned. The actual weight of the frame is creating just enough tension in the spring. is that correct or do I need lower rated shock

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[skaredshtles]

I'm setting up my coil shock with a coil that came stock on the bike. I've got my sag set correctly but when I lift the bike off the ground the spring isn't tensioned. The actual weight of the frame is creating just enough tension in the spring. is that correct or do I need lower rated shock

Maybe I'm reading this incorrectly... but it sounds like you may just need to tighten your pre-load collar down a bit?

[Andeh]

Maybe I'm reading this incorrectly... but it sounds like you may just need to tighten your pre-load collar down a bit?

That's what it reads like to me as well.

Tighten the preload collar until it makes solid contact with the spring, and you can no longer push the spring forward/back by hand. Now tighten the preload collar 1 more complete revolution. Done.

[skaredshtles]

That's what it reads like to me as well.

Tighten the preload collar until it makes solid contact with the spring, and you can no longer push the spring forward/back by hand. Now tighten the preload collar 1 more complete revolution. Done.

This is when he tells us there's no pre-load collar?

[Rossymcg]

Maybe I'm reading this incorrectly... but it sounds like you may just need to tighten your pre-load collar down a bit?

yes I'd preloaded it with the weight of the frame on it, all sorted now. had a quick blast in it coil tracks out the back well man

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[skaredshtles]

yes I'd preloaded it with the weight of the frame on it, all sorted now. had a quick blast in it coil tracks out the back well man

Yes... coil shocks are quite amazing, honestly. I'm strongly considering a coil for my "short travel" (140mm) Trance when the stock Fox dies. Although the Fox has been a trooper so far.

[Rossymcg]

Yes... coil shocks are quite amazing, honestly.

it made the forks feel skittish, ive got some tinkering to do on them to get them feeling right



Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[skaredshtles]

it made the forks feel skittish, ive got some tinkering to do on them to get them feeling right

You should try a coil fork some time...

[cmc]

I'm trying to set up the rebound on my fork (Fox 34 Performance) and using this tuning guide: https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/605-...Guide-revC.pdf

Looking at page 4, am I right to think that I should hear 9 clicks from open to closed? When I actually do it myself, I hear 23 clicks. From the tuning guide I should be set at 7 clicks, but that seems to be based on the 9 clicks total. What am I missing here?

Thanks.

[Rossymcg]

You should try a coil fork some time...

do you increase your rebound speed to get more pop with the coil?

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[funkendrenchman]

I'm trying to set up the rebound on my fork (Fox 34 Performance) and using this tuning guide: https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/605-...Guide-revC.pdf

Looking at page 4, am I right to think that I should hear 9 clicks from open to closed? When I actually do it myself, I hear 23 clicks. From the tuning guide I should be set at 7 clicks, but that seems to be based on the 9 clicks total. What am I missing here?

Thanks.

Only the first 9 clicks do anything.

[toast2266]

do you increase your rebound speed to get more pop with the coil?

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

No.

If you're looking for more pop, more low speed compression is usually the way to get it.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Whoever recommended the Sam Hill knee pads:

Thank you. These are the best pads I have run. They feel odd for the first minute you ever put them on, but they stay in place perfectly and are not very hot.

[John_B]

Anyone have recommendations on a AFFORDABLE heart rate monitor? This is more for riding a trainer or using a rower. I don't expect to ever take it outside.

[Andeh]

The answer to that probably depends on what affordable is to you, whether you're ok with chest or arm, and how precise you want it. I got a Polar arm band for like $60 from Europe, specifically because I hate chest straps. DC Rainmaker blog is good for reviews on different GPS/HRM/powermeters from the techy side of things.

[teledad]

Anyone have recommendations on a AFFORDABLE heart rate monitor? This is more for riding a trainer or using a rower. I don't expect to ever take it outside.

What's affordable? Polar H9 and Garmin HRM-Dual are each around $50 and will pair with any modern phone over Bluetooth.

[Thaleia]

Can anyone recommend a good, tryed and tested shock pump that can actually get to 200 psi?

I'm trying to set up the rebound on my fork (Fox 34 Performance) and using this tuning guide: https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/605-...Guide-revC.pdf

Looking at page 4, am I right to think that I should hear 9 clicks from open to closed? When I actually do it myself, I hear 23 clicks. From the tuning guide I should be set at 7 clicks, but that seems to be based on the 9 clicks total. What am I missing here?

Thanks.

Here's a laugh for you all at my expense.

Yesterday I was bored and this post reminded me that I haven't checked the pressure in my fork and shock since spring and hey, why not go do that instead of more mindless internet time.

Head to the garage, get started and my pump isn't working. And of course when trying to connect I lost most of the air, so no morning ride for me today.

Look online and my local guy is closed Monday. Really don't want to miss a ride so I ordered one for next day delivery from Amazon. (I know, I know).

It arrived today earlier than expected so I was in a great mood - get this sorted and I can still ride today.

Start pumping and around 150 psi the pos new pump started leaking. Lost all pressure by the time I could remove it. Fuuuck.

Go hunting around online, find one oh just over an hour away. (left at 2pm, got home at 4:30 thank you shitty GTA traffic)

You'll never guess what happens next!

With the second brand new pump in hand, start pumping and the gotdamned hose disconnects suddenly. The ~175 psi air to the face made me swing back, dropping my bike into another bike. Fucking shit show.

Three pumps in two days. Zero riding in the meantime.