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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #1601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Now that we've extensively debated proper installation of the crown race, what's the expert consensus on removal?
    Grease half the steerer tube before dipping the fork in liquid nitrogen while heating the crown race with a plasma torch and whack the whole thing with a PVC stick?
    Or something complicated like using a flat blade screwdriver and mallet and gently hitting the underside of the crown so it slides off?? Ideally the fork and crown would come out of this operation unharmed and looking brand new...
    Screwdriver and a mallet works fine if you don't ham fist it too badly.

  2. #1602
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Screwdriver and a mallet works fine if you don't ham fist it too badly.
    Yes. This. Only use a hammer.

    On greasing crown races: probably doesnít matter either way, but the two pieces of metal are essentially the same size, so the only way they fit together is for one or both to deform. No grease necessary for that at all. I guess my grease superstition is that something will set in its deformed size and grease will allow it to move.

    Extremely unlikely, granted. But why grease? Totally unnecessary. No one has ever not been able to install a crown race, tried again with grease, and then had it work.

  3. #1603
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    Iíd use grease... certainly not going to make your race magically come up. I also use an old headset bearing, and hammer it bit by bit down rotating around the steerer tube (long piece of wood on the bearing, hit the end of the piece of wood with hammer, rotate wood, repeat).

    To remove, start by wedging in a razor blade between fork and race. Tap it in with a hammer. Rotate and repeat. Gives enough space to get a flat head in there to pry it up (again, only a little bit at a time, rotating around).


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  4. #1604
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    Possible to wear out a Shimano XT 12 speed cassette/chain in like 230ish miles? I swear my 11speed stuff lasted longer.

    Slow upshifting and some slippage when hammering on the pedals today.

  5. #1605
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    I would use a dab of grease in case it creaked, has anybody had a lower race creak ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #1606
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I would use a dab of grease in case it creaked, has anybody had a lower race creak ?
    Only a split ring. The force required to set a crown does not allow for any movement.

  7. #1607
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    I haven't been too stoked with shimano 12 speed chain wear. I had to replace my XTR in 350-400 miles. New chain and its all good though. The cages are pretty weak on the rear derailleur as well. I am on my third and have bent my wifes back a couple times, the first one didn't have and grease on the clutch and self destructed. As far as wear goes GX chain are about the same... I always run X0 chains and they last a million miles.
    Last edited by Eluder; 08-05-2020 at 08:38 AM.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  8. #1608
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Possible to wear out a Shimano XT 12 speed cassette/chain in like 230ish miles? I swear my 11speed stuff lasted longer.

    Slow upshifting and some slippage when hammering on the pedals today.
    I'd be pretty shocked based on my own experience and what I've read. Did you actually check wear with a tool? Maybe if you're riding in mud all the time and never clean it....

    FWIW mine now has 1300mi and still hasn't reached .5% on the new style Park CC-4. It's very dry here though, and I'm quite meticulous about cleaning and lubing.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T707A using TGR Forums mobile app
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  9. #1609
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    I've got about 750 miles on new XT here in New England this year and chain and cassette are wearing well. Grease on the clutch not so good but was easy to do.

  10. #1610
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    I'd be pretty shocked based on my own experience and what I've read. Did you actually check wear with a tool? Maybe if you're riding in mud all the time and never clean it....

    FWIW mine now has 1300mi and still hasn't reached .5% on the new style Park CC-4. It's very dry here though, and I'm quite meticulous about cleaning and lubing.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T707A using TGR Forums mobile app
    I clean and lube almost every ride, but there have been a couple where I got a muddy drivetrain at like mile 7 and have to ride another 20+ miles.

    I changed out the cable and housing thinking that was it. Nope. Now I'll try to clean all the pivot points on the derailleur parallelogram. It's just like a "slow" derailleur if that makes sense. Even when visibly clean. Bigger rings to smaller rings = slow and it has nothing to do with the cable tension/barrel adjustment. B screw has been checked.

    SLX der and shifter FWIW.

  11. #1611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Only a split ring. The force required to set a crown does not allow for any movement.
    I grease most things just in case and I'm really digging the carbon paste
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #1612
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    New to mtb, but now totally hooked. I have an old Stumpjumper I want to to convert to 1x11 (or 12 I guess. ) I found a cheap Shimano m8100 groupset, can I just directly swap out the old cassette and chain ring for the new ones? Iím reasonably competent at wrenching, but totally new to bikes.
    I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...

  13. #1613
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I clean and lube almost every ride, but there have been a couple where I got a muddy drivetrain at like mile 7 and have to ride another 20+ miles.

    I changed out the cable and housing thinking that was it. Nope. Now I'll try to clean all the pivot points on the derailleur parallelogram. It's just like a "slow" derailleur if that makes sense. Even when visibly clean. Bigger rings to smaller rings = slow and it has nothing to do with the cable tension/barrel adjustment. B screw has been checked.

    SLX der and shifter FWIW.
    My XT / XTR setup is similar to that. As best I can tell, the pivots in the parallelogram of the derailleur are sticky. I think I may have hit the derailleur on something at some point (I don't recall doing it, but there are some minor scratches on it). It's not bent, but it doesn't seem to move as smoothly as it did when it was new. Lubing the pivots helped for a bit, but I think the lube ultimately just attracted dirt and made the problem worse.

  14. #1614
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCtransplant View Post
    New to mtb, but now totally hooked. I have an old Stumpjumper I want to to convert to 1x11 (or 12 I guess. ) I found a cheap Shimano m8100 groupset, can I just directly swap out the old cassette and chain ring for the new ones? I’m reasonably competent at wrenching, but totally new to bikes.
    How old is the Stumpy? Year and model maybe? That might impact what upgrades you can do

  15. #1615
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    Why does rear shock wallow feel like.. wallow? I get that it’s moving more further in the stroke, but that low psi tire rolling off rim sensation I don’t understand.
    So the world is filled with tubular entities. Food goes in one end and shit comes out the other. Sperm goes in and babies come out.

  16. #1616
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iowagriz View Post
    How old is the Stumpy? Year and model maybe? That might impact what upgrades you can do
    2006 maybe? Not actually sure. Iím assuming 1x12 set up wonít work with a 26er, wasnít sure about 11.

    Looking for a couple cost effective upgrades until I can make the jump to a more modern enduro.
    I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...

  17. #1617
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCtransplant View Post
    2006 maybe? Not actually sure. I’m assuming 1x12 set up won’t work with a 26er, wasn’t sure about 11.

    Looking for a couple cost effective upgrades until I can make the jump to a more modern enduro.
    It'll work fine (11 or 12), the rear derailleur is just going to hang a little low. Anything 12 speed will require you to swap to a new freehub body on the rear wheel (if possible, depends on the hub). Otherwise you're in for a new hub too. An 11 speed Shimano (or low end Sram) cassette will work with the existing wheel.

    The chainring also won't swap over out of that M8100 group, you'd need to get the matching crank.

    As a general thought, you'd likely be better off saving the money and buying a more modern bike though, instead of trying to upgrade that one. Things have come a long way in the last 15 years.

  18. #1618
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post

    As a general thought, you'd likely be better off saving the money and buying a more modern bike though, instead of trying to upgrade that one. Things have come a long way in the last 15 years.
    ^this. Things have come a long way in 3 years!

  19. #1619
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCtransplant View Post
    New to mtb, but now totally hooked. I have an old Stumpjumper I want to to convert to 1x11 (or 12 I guess. ) I found a cheap Shimano m8100 groupset, can I just directly swap out the old cassette and chain ring for the new ones? Iím reasonably competent at wrenching, but totally new to bikes.
    IME going from a 2005 to a modern enduro bike everything is next generation better, brakes are better, 29 " wheels roll better/ faster/ stronger, suspension is better, 1x means design can be better due to limitations multiple chain rings cause in the in the BB, geometry is better, there is all kinds of stuff just waiting to break on a bike that is worht 500$
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #1620
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    As a general thought, you'd likely be better off saving the money and buying a more modern bike though, instead of trying to upgrade that one. Things have come a long way in the last 15 years.
    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    ^this. Things have come a long way in 3 years!
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    IME going from a 2005 to a modern enduro bike everything is next generation better, brakes are better, 29 " wheels roll better/ faster/ stronger, suspension is better, 1x means design can be better due to limitations multiple chain rings cause in the in the BB, geometry is better, there is all kinds of stuff just waiting to break on a bike that is worht 500$
    having just gone ahead and ignored all of this advice and dumped upgrade money into a POS bike, I have regrets, and you should not fall into the same trap. you pay so much more for the incremental upgrades compared to just shelling out $1800 for a cheap but decent modern bike...

  21. #1621
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    Hang it on the wall of the shed along with your Olin Mark 4’s.
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  22. #1622
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    Quote Originally Posted by mall walker View Post
    having just gone ahead and ignored all of this advice and dumped upgrade money into a POS bike, I have regrets, and you should not fall into the same trap. you pay so much more for the incremental upgrades compared to just shelling out $1800 for a cheap but decent modern bike...
    Glad someone had the balls to admit defeat.

  23. #1623
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meconium View Post
    Why does rear shock wallow feel like.. wallow? I get that itís moving more further in the stroke, but that low psi tire rolling off rim sensation I donít understand.
    Iím not sure I understand the sensation you are describing but if I do it sounds like loose or worn shock attachment points.

  24. #1624
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Hang it on the wall of the shed along with your Olin Mark 4ís.
    Knuckledragger, so it will go beside my Cummins flowertop, but point taken...

    So what specific bikes and years am I looking for under $2k (cdn), I guess more of an enduro, mostly riding Vancouver north shore, definitely more dh focussed but donít want to hate life climbing and doing occasional xc?
    I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...

  25. #1625
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCtransplant View Post
    So what specific bikes and years am I looking for under $2k (cdn), I guess more of an enduro, mostly riding Vancouver north shore, definitely more dh focussed but don’t want to hate life climbing and doing occasional xc?
    Something used

    1) 2017 or newer
    2) 140 mm minimum travel on the frame (which will likely mean 150-160 on the fork). Up to around 160mm travel would be fine.
    3) Sram GX or Shimano XT or better
    4) condition matters, obviously
    5) While there are plenty of excellent bikes from smaller manufacturers, sticking with the bigger brands might be a safer bet.

    Within those criteria, there aren't really any noteworthy bikes that I would 100% avoid. Ultimately, the best option is going to be finding something that's a good deal (better parts and a bike that hasn't been abused).

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