Ask the experts

[rideit]

If it’s 11 speed with a proper chain line, I rarely go above or below 5/6, if that makes sense.
But I have it geared for any combination in case of duress/mis-shift.

[mall walker]

yeah that makes sense. (it’s 11 speed on a new bike, but that bike got assembled at REI so idk) soo my technique could use some work then I guess. my old road bike with 105, 34/50 12-30 10 speed will tolerate anything except full cross chaining. maybe a real bike shop can deal with this though

[Benneke10]

yeah that makes sense. (it’s 11 speed on a new bike, but that bike got assembled at REI so idk) soo my technique could use some work then I guess. my old road bike with 105, 34/50 12-30 10 speed will tolerate anything except full cross chaining. maybe a real bike shop can deal with this though

You should not have rubbing with any modern front derailleur. You can adjust the lateral position and the rotational angle of the front derailleur cage, and it has to be done just right to avoid the rub but it can definitely be done. Shimano derailleurs have excellent "trim" function which is a way to micro adjust. But yeah any competent mechanic can do this is 2 seconds.

[mall walker]

heh. ok this was my hope. great I will take it to LBS

[jmedslc]

yeah that makes sense. (it’s 11 speed on a new bike, but that bike got assembled at REI so idk) soo my technique could use some work then I guess. my old road bike with 105, 34/50 12-30 10 speed will tolerate anything except full cross chaining. maybe a real bike shop can deal with this though

Personally I’d bring this back over to Rei and have Tucker or one of his techs take care of it. This is an easy fix. Hope all is well with you, momma and baby.

[bagtagley]

Anybody know what this is? Pretty sure it came with the new bike but not sure what it’s for.

[El Chupacabra]

Anybody know what this is? Pretty sure it came with the new bike but not sure what it’s for.

Attachment 375839

That's an Allen key. Almost certainly metric.

[simple]

Looks like an extension for a hard to reach inflation valve. Just a guess

[bagtagley]

Looks like an extension for a hard to reach inflation valve. Just a guess

Yeah, that's what it is. Now, to figure out what it goes with.

Thanks, Chup, you're a big help.

[Andeh]

Yeah, that's what it is. Now, to figure out what it goes with.

Thanks, Chup, you're a big help.

My BikeYoke dropper came with a similar valve extension. But not that allen wrench (they use Torx bolts).

[bagtagley]

My BikeYoke dropper came with a similar valve extension. But not that allen wrench (they use Torx bolts).

That's it! Thanks! The allen wrench is probably for the reset.

I don't actually need to use it, but it was driving me crazy trying to figure out what it goes with.

[smmokan]

It's a valve extension for the air valve that's in the top of the Bike Yoke dropper, to make it easier to reach. FWIW, I've had 50+ BikeYoke Revive droppers in the last few seasons and I think I've added air to one post. Knock on wood, they're pretty flawless.

The allen wrench/key is for the self-bleed port that's on the underside of the saddle clamps.

Pro tip for the Bike Yoke Revive droppers: if you hang your bike vertically (on a hook in your garage, or on a vertical-carry hitch rack), make sure the post is extended. If it's down, air will enter the system and you'll have to self-bleed the post when you take the bike down.

[Toddball]

Just got a new 2020 DHX2 for my Canfield Riot. I think I have my settings dialed in enough for the first ride tomorrow, except the top-out is a bit harsh. Is this from too much spring preload? I backed off the preload a little and it seemed to get better, but I'm having a hard time finding the preload sweet spot where the spring isn't rattling around but it's not overly preloaded either.

I'm only feeling the top-out when I bounce on the bike pretty aggressively and pull up with my clippy pedals, not just riding along. Although I guess I exhibit bouncy fake-bunny-hop behavior regularly whilst JRA, so there is that.

[toast2266]

Just got a new 2020 DHX2 for my Canfield Riot. I think I have my settings dialed in enough for the first ride tomorrow, except the top-out is a bit harsh. Is this from too much spring preload? I backed off the preload a little and it seemed to get better, but I'm having a hard time finding the preload sweet spot where the spring isn't rattling around but it's not overly preloaded either.

I'm only feeling the top-out when I bounce on the bike pretty aggressively and pull up with my clippy pedals, not just riding along. Although I guess I exhibit bouncy fake-bunny-hop behavior regularly whilst JRA, so there is that.

Spring preload shouldn't be a problem as long as you're within the acceptable range (1 - 3 full turns). If you have more preload than that, you have too much preload and maybe need a stiffer spring. If you're within that preload range, try adding a couple clicks of rebound (I'd probably start with just the low speed circuit, but if it only happens with an aggressive bounce, a click or two of HSR might help).

[g_man80]

Has anyone lost or broke a chain roller? No signs of damage anywhere on the chain. Link and pin are tight. Shimano 12-speed 7100 chain with about 150 miles on it. I’m guessing it’s not a good idea to ride as is. Thoughts?

[Dee Hubbs]

Has anyone lost or broke a chain roller? No signs of damage anywhere on the chain. Link and pin are tight. Shimano 12-speed 7100 chain with about 150 miles on it. I’m guessing it’s not a good idea to ride as is. Thoughts?

Never seen that. Warranty it, Shimano will replace it.

[Boissal]

I was going to say this looks like the quicklink from above because I've noticed this on my chain before and that's what I assumed it was but that doesn't make sense. Off to warranty my chain too!

[g_man80]

Yep, not the quicklink. Unfortunately, I need it to ride this weekend. I’ll probably just use a piece from an extra link and install a second quicklink.

[evdog]

I've had those fall off when I had to break the chain or while using a quicklink. Never had any issue stealing one from a spare link and putting it in there.

As to the other discussion re quick links... I re-use them, never had any issue. I've also used my chain tool to push a pin out of the chain to break it, and then push the pin back into the chain plate. No issues there either.

[bonewrenched]

Ok, FSA comet crankset. The 10mm self-extracting bolt on the drive side has started to come loose, resulting in chainring wobble. Tightened it, but worked loose again after one ride. Can't find torque specs on the line. Suggestions? Do I not understand self-extracting cranks?

Wow well I'm an idiot but thankfully I get to make fun of myself first - the torque specs are printed on the bolt. You can even see them in the picture.

Next ride will tell if that fixes the problem.

[nickwm21]

I’m looking to upgrade to a carbon bar - mainly for better damping/feel.... and a little trail-cred...

Let’s talk stem clamp size:
- So we know aluminum 35mm is too harsh. 31.8mm is the happy number for AL bars...
- There are 35mm carbon bars marketed as being the best ride feel, utilizing the larger diameter to do so (oneup, wao, etc...).

But what about the 31.8 carbon bars? Do you need to bump up to 35mm to get the full benefits?

I have a 31.8 stem. Hence the question...

Any recommendations on a 31.8 carbon bar?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[mall walker]

is there a best chamois shorts thread somewhere?

[toast2266]

Any recommendations on a 31.8 carbon bar?

I've generally liked the enve bars I've had (although all of mine have been 35). And despite being the dentist brand, they're more or less comparably priced with most of the other nice carbon bars.

[Dantheman]

I'm pretty happy with my Protaper 31.8 carbon

https://hayesbicycle.com/products/pr...rise-handlebar

[jono]

Zee Germans make a nice bar that goes by the name of Syntace Vector.