Ask the experts

[Eluder]

Had the same exact experience. Lots of grumbling about how poorly designed it was until I started using it the right way and I realized I was the one who was poorly designed...

"There he goes. One of God's own prototypes. A high-powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die."

...

[sethschmautz]

sell it to sethschmautz for use as a chainstay protector.

Ha!

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[skinipenem]

New bikes coming shortly and very stoked. Have only been riding moto for the past several years with a few days of dh scattered about.

What to change/ install/ do to the bike prior to riding it these days?
... apart from the obvious cockpit setup etc...

Yt decoy (not trying to start an ebike controversy here)

Couple thoughts:

Best frame protectors
Downtube/bb protector

Tyx

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[toast2266]

New bikes coming shortly and very stoked. Have only been riding moto for the past several years with a few days of dh scattered about.

What to change/ install/ do to the bike prior to riding it these days?
... apart from the obvious cockpit setup etc...

Yt decoy (not trying to start an ebike controversy here)

Couple thoughts:

Best frame protectors
Downtube/bb protector

Tyx

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

On the new bike I just got I:
-added 3M vinyl tape in areas that get beat up. Underside of downtube and everything that catches fling off the rear tire. Some people wrap pretty much the whole frame, but I don't bother.
-added a chainguide + taco bashguard
-set up tires tubeless.
-added a water bottle cage.
-cut bars to 780.
-normal cockpit adjustments and suspension setup.

[criscam]

another DIY vs shop question for a hack....
kid stripped a pedal out of his cranks last wknd (how does that happen?). Suntour Zeron. looks like i remove the left crank w a hex but need a special wrench to remove bottom bracket and right crank? best to just take it to a shop?

[MegaStoke]

another DIY vs shop question for a hack....
kid stripped a pedal out of his cranks last wknd (how does that happen?). Suntour Zeron. looks like i remove the left crank w a hex but need a special wrench to remove bottom bracket and right crank? best to just take it to a shop?

Not the kids fault, there was a bad run of those cranks that basically all failed. Improperly cut pedal threads. Suntour will warranty them.

Yeah you pretty much need the SunTour BB tool to pull the bottom shell. You should just be able to pull the left arm, and tap the right arm and spindle out through the BB

[Dantheman]

another DIY vs shop question for a hack....
kid stripped a pedal out of his cranks last wknd (how does that happen?). Suntour Zeron. looks like i remove the left crank w a hex but need a special wrench to remove bottom bracket and right crank? best to just take it to a shop?

How bad are the female threads mangled? If it's just the last few threads sometimes you can thread the pedal in backwards (i.e., from the inboard side) and it will clean up the threads enough to get the pedal back in the normal way.


eta: Just saw MegaStoke's post. Definitely replace the cranks if the threads are defective, yikes.

[Dee Hubbs]

8mm key for for the NDS, remove the wavy washer, and the serrated washer, then it should just be a 32mm wrench to take the lock ring off, and then a mallet to tap out the spindle.

[criscam]

Not the kids fault, there was a bad run of those cranks that basically all failed. Improperly cut pedal threads. Suntour will warranty them.

So sounds like maybe i should contact Suntour first?

How bad are the female threads mangled? If it's just the last few threads sometimes you can thread the pedal in backwards (i.e., from the inboard side) and it will clean up the threads enough to get the pedal back in the normal way.


eta: Just saw MegaStoke's post. Definitely replace the cranks if the threads are defective, yikes.

pretty bad. it was kinda funny riding behind him and all of a sudden his pedal just falls off. luckily we were on the last half mile of a desert ride so a minimal walk out.

8mm key for for the NDS, remove the wavy washer, and the serrated washer, then it should just be a 32mm wrench to take the lock ring off, and then a mallet to tap out the spindle.

this is kind of what i saw on some videos. same 32mm wrench to remove the other side of the crank from the BB?

[robnow]

Any of you switch from a 36 to 38? I’m in for about a $200 difference. Just finished my Arrival build, I pedal a shit ton in Alberta/BC Rockies terrain. Will prob keep it at 160 to match the “sportier” feel of the rear. Weigh 190lbs.

I’m not sold on the increased “stiffness”…compliance can be good, but if the air chamber and increased bushing overlap have a nicer feel, I could be convinced. I almost see it as the 38 being designed for Rudeboy Richie, while the 36 is more than adequate for 99.9% of the AM/Enduro builds.

[toast2266]

Any of you switch from a 36 to 38? I’m in for about a $200 difference. Just finished my Arrival build, I pedal a shit ton in Alberta/BC Rockies terrain. Will prob keep it at 160 to match the “sportier” feel of the rear. Weigh 190lbs.

I’m not sold on the increased “stiffness”…compliance can be good, but if the air chamber and increased bushing overlap have a nicer feel, I could be convinced. I almost see it as the 38 being designed for Rudeboy Richie, while the 36 is more than adequate for 99.9% of the AM/Enduro builds.

I really, really like my 38. Substantially more fork than a 36. I thought it'd just feel like 2 more, but in reality it feels more like 5 more.

That said, it's fucking heavy and overkill for most trails. I wouldn't put it on anything less than a full enduro sled.

[Dee Hubbs]

this is kind of what i saw on some videos. same 32mm wrench to remove the other side of the crank from the BB?

It’s a 2 piece crank.
Piece 1 is the Non drive side arm. 8mm key to remove.
Piece 2 is the drive side arm, chainring and spindle attached.
Once you undo the 32mm retaining nut on the NDS, you just hit the spindle with a mallet to remove it from the BB, no more tools, or nothing to do on the drive side.

[SKIP IN7RO]

What to change/ install/ do to the bike prior to riding it these days?
... apart from the obvious cockpit setup etc...

Yt decoy (not trying to start an ebike controversy here)

ISC Racer's Tape for clear protection
Tidy up the speed sensor cable in the chainstay area with electrical or mastic tape

and then tires are the most fun imo, just get the burly ones, no worrying about the weight.

[criscam]

It’s a 2 piece crank.
Piece 1 is the Non drive side arm. 8mm key to remove.
Piece 2 is the drive side arm, chainring and spindle attached.
Once you undo the 32mm retaining nut on the NDS, you just hit the spindle with a mallet to remove it from the BB, no more tools, or nothing to do on the drive side.

Thx Dee!

[Andeh]

Any of you switch from a 36 to 38? I’m in for about a $200 difference. Just finished my Arrival build, I pedal a shit ton in Alberta/BC Rockies terrain. Will prob keep it at 160 to match the “sportier” feel of the rear. Weigh 190lbs.

I’m not sold on the increased “stiffness”…compliance can be good, but if the air chamber and increased bushing overlap have a nicer feel, I could be convinced. I almost see it as the 38 being designed for Rudeboy Richie, while the 36 is more than adequate for 99.9% of the AM/Enduro builds.

Check out the Blister fork comparison. https://blisterreview.com/gear-revie...rk-comparisons

They do a great job of comparing basically all the enduro forks out there. It sounds like the 38 does have quite a bit different air spring feel than the 36, in addition to stiffness. Ditto for Zeb vs. Lyrik. At your weight you'd probably benefit from increased stiffness, but you don't necessarily need to go to a 38 for that. Maybe something like a Lyrik + a Runt? Or a Mezzer?

[sf]

Go to a shop and ask if they have a spare rockshox reverb internal routing tool (small red double male ended dohickey). They may have a few and sell you one cheap or free, it will save you a massive headache threading the internal hoses/housing. Install fork, headset spacers, stem and bars run 35cm of spacers and cut your steerer to that. Should be more than enough to adjust how you want, can always trim later. A pipe cutter for this works fine, but buying the $10 deburring/smoothing tool off Amazon is a good idea. Do the dropper last so you know saddle height and don’t f up the cable length. Grease everything but carbon lightly, use a torque wrench, use anti-seize on the saddle rails and any carbon bits.


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Thanks.
Good point about the seatpost and thanks for the tip about the thingy. Hopefully I won't need it, but will try to pick one up for future use. The frame came with the housing for the seatpost already in place, and I'll go AXS on the gears

[LHutz Esq]

A buddy of mine just bought his first bike - 2011 ish spec enduro with a KS Lev dropper. Similar vintage dropper post with external cable. The dropper lever doesn’t return. I can’t see a spring in either the post or the lever itself. I am thinking it may be just an old worn cable as it seems to work fine when you activate it at the seat. Am I missing something what causes the lever on the seat to return?


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[Touring_Sedan]

Anyone have recs for some pads for my 5yo daughter? The training wheels came off last weekend and I'd like to pick up some elbow and knee pads. Most of the stuff on Amazon is shit, and I'm having a hard time finding something else that's appropriately sized. FWIW, I got the boy some TLD ones a few years ago. I was impressed with the fit and finish, but they're still a bit too big for the girl.

[Andeh]

I got my kid a pair of these (sm/md) when he was 4 and starting to ride, but he doesn't use them anymore.
https://www.fanatikbike.com/products...31924562559022
I can send them to you for the cost of shipping if you want.

When I am able to convince him to wear pads now, he just wears a pair of my (adult) TLD Stage elbow pads, as knee pads. Adult M/L elbow pads seem to fit a skinny 5 year old pretty well as knee pads, and cover most of their shin too.

[406]

I got the youth small size G-Form Pro Knee Pads for my at the time 5 yo, amazon had an open box discounted pair for $30. She is not impressed with the all black.

[Touring_Sedan]

I got my kid a pair of these (sm/md) when he was 4 and starting to ride, but he doesn't use them anymore.
https://www.fanatikbike.com/products...31924562559022
I can send them to you for the cost of shipping if you want.

When I am able to convince him to wear pads now, he just wears a pair of my (adult) TLD Stage elbow pads, as knee pads. Adult M/L elbow pads seem to fit a skinny 5 year old pretty well as knee pads, and cover most of their shin too.

Thanks for the offer, but save them for someone local. I'll check out the Raceface ones.

I got the youth small size G-Form Pro Knee Pads for my at the time 5 yo, amazon had an open box discounted pair for $30. She is not impressed with the all black.

Yeah, the only versions I've found are crap. I had forgotten about G-Form. That elastic might be the ticket.

[gramboh]

Any of you switch from a 36 to 38? I’m in for about a $200 difference. Just finished my Arrival build, I pedal a shit ton in Alberta/BC Rockies terrain. Will prob keep it at 160 to match the “sportier” feel of the rear. Weigh 190lbs.

I’m not sold on the increased “stiffness”…compliance can be good, but if the air chamber and increased bushing overlap have a nicer feel, I could be convinced. I almost see it as the 38 being designed for Rudeboy Richie, while the 36 is more than adequate for 99.9% of the AM/Enduro builds.

Previous bike (2019 YT Jeffsy 27.5) had a 2019 36 Factory 160mm GRIP2, new bike (Transition Patrol mullet) has a 2022 38 Factory 160mm GRIP2. Definitely notice the increased "stoutness" of the 38 and really like it. It also feels more supportive and composed to me, with roughly similar settings, although the GRIP2 VVC damper and air spring are different from the older 36. I weigh 210-215lbs naked so maybe that's why it feels noticeably better to me on trail, but then again the Patrol is way more aggressive geo than the Jeffsy (63.5 vs 65.5 HTA, +60mm wheelbase etc) so that plays into it. The fork is heavier but so is my entire bike, went from like 32 to 38lbs. Mostly ride North Shore, Squamish and Whistler.

[Dantheman]

Yeah, the only versions I've found are crap. I had forgotten about G-Form. That elastic might be the ticket.

I'm pretty sure I still have some kids G-form knee pads Sam doesn't use anymore I'd be happy to give you. The G-forms work really well if you can sew--just stitch them up in the back to take up the slack, then when they grow cut the stitching and you go up a size for free. I also have a TLD Shock Doctor padded shirt you can have. Thankfully he didn't crash much while wearing it so it's in great shape.

[jono]

A buddy of mine just bought his first bike - 2011 ish spec enduro with a KS Lev dropper. Similar vintage dropper post with external cable. The dropper lever doesn’t return. I can’t see a spring in either the post or the lever itself. I am thinking it may be just an old worn cable as it seems to work fine when you activate it at the seat. Am I missing something what causes the lever on the seat to return?

Have you checked for kinks in the cable already? Could be the typical behavior of raise or lower the seat a little too much without feeding cable housing and the cable gets balky.

[VTskibum]

JONG question and procrastinating on work meeting (aren't all of us?), but curious the collective's bike wash "tool kit" and wondering if the bike specific products are better enough to warrant picking up a few.

Current process and tools: Dish soap/water, hose on shower/light spray, bucket, couple of various size/shape sponges, and a hard bristled kitchen scrubber for cassettes, pulley wheels, and chainring.

Followed by lube chain, bit of slick honey all suspension/dropper parts and usually drip some triflow on derailleur pivots and pulley bearings and suspension bearings and wipe all excess off. Probably do this 1x month per bike ridden often during the season. Took me an hour to wash 4 of mine and 2 kids bikes the other night.

Worth it for any of the chain specific tools? What about those narrow cassette brushes (usually would just use a pick to get out debris)? Any reason to use muck off bike wash etc? Thinking maybe a narrower soft bristled brush for tight spots behind chainring and suspension areas?

In particular curious what Dee Hub's wash kit toolbox looks like. Envisioning another perfectly foam cut suitcase full of specialty brushes etc.