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Thread: Ask the experts
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01-20-2022, 10:32 AM #6826Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
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- East Van
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- 166
That’s helpful, thanks. Since the bigger cog is more in the nice-to-have category than the I’m-dying-on-climbs I’ll probably stick with the 42. I suppose if I was desperate for lower gearing the easier (cheaper) route is to play with chainring size rather than bigger cassettes.
I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...
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01-20-2022, 11:20 AM #6827
Last edited by Beaver; 01-20-2022 at 02:48 PM.
You are what you eat.
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There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.
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01-20-2022, 08:43 PM #6828Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Location
- NorCal coast
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- 1,947
I've got a set of offset bushings on order, and trying to wrap my head around which way to orient them to slacken/steepen the angles. On their website FAQ, they show both bushings set so the eye to eye is reduced as being slacker/lower. https://www.offsetbushings.com/pages/how-they-work
So if you orient both outwards, that should steepen things? And if you do just one bushing with the holes inward/outward, that should do half the change?
When I try to visualize it, it seems to me that if you put the hole further away from the shock, it would make the front triangle sink closer to the rear end, getting slacker. And if you made the hole closer to the shock, it should push the front triangle away. Why is this incorrect?
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01-20-2022, 10:12 PM #6829
Think about it in terms of the resulting distance between the shock mount bolts. The center of the bushing (as in center of the OD, ignoring the hole) doesn't move but if you orient the bushing such that the holes are closer together, you've made the topout position a smidge deeper into the travel. Hence lower/slacker.
I've found that they'll eventually walk their way into a different orientation if you try to use them to make a bike taller/steeper. They work fine going the other way.
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01-21-2022, 07:53 AM #6830Registered User
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- Feb 2014
- Location
- NorCal coast
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- 1,947
Do you have to change spring rate then? Is it like running a couple percent more sag?
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01-21-2022, 08:29 AM #6831
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01-21-2022, 08:50 AM #6832Registered User
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- Mar 2011
- Location
- LA
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- 290
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01-21-2022, 08:56 AM #6833
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01-23-2022, 04:49 PM #6834
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01-23-2022, 05:04 PM #6835
Because they're enduro as fuck.
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01-23-2022, 05:17 PM #6836
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01-23-2022, 05:26 PM #6837Registered User
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- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
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- 30,881
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01-23-2022, 05:52 PM #6838
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01-23-2022, 05:56 PM #6839
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01-23-2022, 06:39 PM #6840
I'll occasionally wear goggles with a half shell for descents if it's really muddy and I'm trying to keep it out of my eyes, but that's it. And if it's that muddy goggles usually suck anyway because it's just too wet and humid and they fog up.
I have no idea why or how anyone would wear them climbing.
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01-23-2022, 07:08 PM #6841Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Posts
- 1,421
Recommendation for a crankset to replace X01 dub boost?
New bike is coming w/ 175 and I want to change to 170.
I’m thinking there’s a better combo of light enough, strong enough, priced right to not automatically go with a shorter X01 but buggered if can keep up with all the options.
And since this is a d2c bike I’m on my own (or rather reaching out to you all for help). Thanks
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01-23-2022, 07:26 PM #6842Registered User
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- Feb 2014
- Location
- NorCal coast
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- 1,947
I wore goggles climbing for parts of my ride yesterday because it was windy AF, like gusting to 60mph. Kept the dust out. The wind was enough that I didn't get sweaty.
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01-23-2022, 08:33 PM #6843
XO1 SRAM Dub Boost with 32t chainring = 471g and a retail price of $350
-XX1 SRAM Dub boost with 32T = 420g. Crank arms retail for $389. PROS- you keep your BB and chainring.
-Race Face Next SL crank with 32T (arms, spindle, preload assembly, lockring, 32t chainring, boots) = 450g (428g arms only) $450 CONS you need new BB and Chainring.
-Race Face Next R with 32T = 495g. $430 Same as above.
-e*thirteen TRS Race Carbon Crankset - 170mm, 425g (arms only). $340, same as above, need bb and chainring.
OR Baller status:
-Cane Creek eeWings Mountain Titanium Crankset, 400g, $1100. Need a BB but can use your SRAM chainring.
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01-23-2022, 09:02 PM #6844Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Posts
- 1,421
^^^ thank you [mention]Dee Hubbs[/mention]
That excellent summary makes sticking w SRAM seem like the best option given BB and chainring compatibility.
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01-23-2022, 09:02 PM #6845
^^^ also, xtr cranks. A little heavier than the sram options, similar price. Cons: need bb and chainring. Pros: not carbon and thus won't have pedal / bb insert failure.
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01-24-2022, 09:12 AM #6846
I wore goggles up and down my second and third seasons riding bikes. The Smith Squad MTB is so ventilated that I never fogged up while climbing in dry ass CO. Only time they have fogged on me is while taking a break while riding DH with a full face.
And the why? Goggles were cheaper than any bike specific glasses I could get. And as a contact wearer I needed the wind protection for descents. Confusing people on the trail was just one of the perks."Just send it you pussy."
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01-24-2022, 11:17 AM #6847
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01-24-2022, 11:22 AM #6848Registered User
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- Feb 2014
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- NorCal coast
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- 1,947
There's also SRAM Descendant carbon cranks, which are something like 100g heavier but are tougher and cheaper than the X01 and XX1 options. They're about the same weight as light alloy ones from what I remember. But if you're considering that, then take a look at RF Turbines.
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01-24-2022, 11:33 AM #6849
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01-24-2022, 12:38 PM #6850Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
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- 1,951
Ask the experts
I was making fun of some Endur-bros on a backcountry group ride that brought their goggles.
Then on a downhill I went through a soupy pile of cow shit that flung up into my eyes, even wearing large coverage glasses.
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