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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #1526
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canada1 View Post
    What torque on the clamp bolt? I will file or sand that connection point, and bet that is it. I had replaced this derailleur at the start of all of this when he snapped it off, and that photo is telling!

    Thanks!
    The Shimano manual states 6-7 nm. I usually go by feel and can't imagine I've tightened it more than 5 nm.

  2. #1527
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Any reason not to buy a very very lightly used sb130 from a friend? My current MTB is a full on hog. This is my 4th season on this bike. I have slowly tricked it out for enduro racing, but honestly don't think I will do a single race this year. It's a small Knolly Warden Carbon with push coil, DVO Diamond, wide Ibis 741/742 wheels, TRP Quadiem brakes, cush core and Michelin Wild Enduro tires (heavy but fucking amazing). It's 35 pounds right now. I need something a little lighter that I can still push hard on DH, but also go ride 30+ miles with my friends and not die pushing an extra 5 pounds around.

    Is there a lot of overlap between these bikes? Every review kind of implies that the sb130 "feels" like a much longer travel bike, but climbs way better.

    I think my biggest concern is coming from a very stout bike I will be underwhelmed or pushing the lighter bike too hard and wish I could go faster.
    It'll be hard to resist making it beefier as opposed to lighter. But I have some friends that really like that bike. But... it's a Yeti, so they may be blinded by the brand.
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  3. #1528
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    Friend that's selling it has been riding hard for 25+ years. He's the real deal and has no brand loyalty. It's his son's bike who got injured last year and by the time he can ride hard he will need to go up a size anyway.

  4. #1529
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    SRAM Disc 20mm Post-Mount Disc Caliper to Post Mount Frame/Fork Adaptor.
    A lot of sites will list them as 160 to 180 adapter. They are the same deal as what you need, just a 20mm bump.
    I assume your rear frame is a Post Mount and does not have an adapter already installed, as in stock 180 disc, if you have a 20mm adapter already on there, you’ll need to replace it with a 40mm adapter.
    If it’s mounted with IS (sideways bolts) you’ll need
    SRAM Disc 20mm IS Adaptor, Fits 180mm Front and 160mm Rear Rotors
    Sweet! Thanks Hubbs!!!

    Next up -- face-melting brake deceleration
    sproing!

  5. #1530
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    Last weekend I was down on the front range of colorado riding trails that shall remain nameless and hall ranch. It rained on and off all day and my bike was making a little creaking noise. All dried out now and no creak to speak of. I was wondering though, should I strip some stuff down and check/clean/lube?

    If so, what should my list be?
    SC Megatower with fresh bb.
    www.dpsskis.com
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  6. #1531
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Any reason not to buy a very very lightly used sb130 from a friend? My current MTB is a full on hog. This is my 4th season on this bike. I have slowly tricked it out for enduro racing, but honestly don't think I will do a single race this year. It's a small Knolly Warden Carbon with push coil, DVO Diamond, wide Ibis 741/742 wheels, TRP Quadiem brakes, cush core and Michelin Wild Enduro tires (heavy but fucking amazing). It's 35 pounds right now. I need something a little lighter that I can still push hard on DH, but also go ride 30+ miles with my friends and not die pushing an extra 5 pounds around.

    Is there a lot of overlap between these bikes? Every review kind of implies that the sb130 "feels" like a much longer travel bike, but climbs way better.

    I think my biggest concern is coming from a very stout bike I will be underwhelmed or pushing the lighter bike too hard and wish I could go faster.
    you can't be part of the tribe anymore ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #1532
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    Apr 2014
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    226
    Quote Originally Posted by TrueNorth View Post
    For those of you swapping multiple wheelsets on a frame, how do you deal with offsets in rotor position between different hub/rotor combinations? Use shims between the rotors and hubs to make everything line up? Get really good at adjusting the brake position each time you swap wheels? Just buy the exact same hub and rotor for every wheel so you don't have to deal with it?

    Multiple sources have told me "just loosen the brake mounting bolts, and retighten while squeezing the brake lever", which never seems to work well enough to avoid rubbing. Brakes are TRP Hy-Rd post mount, and tightening the mounting bolts always seems to shift it out of position so I spend a lot of time trying to get it aligned properly.
    I used to spend a lot of time trying to get calipers aligned properly, then I spent a few bucks and got these: http://www.birzman.com/products_2.ph...&cID=4&Key=133

    Using these actually makes is so you can just squeeze the lever and retighten the bolts, without needing to move the caliper manually to align it.

  8. #1533
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    Last weekend I was down on the front range of colorado riding trails that shall remain nameless and hall ranch. It rained on and off all day and my bike was making a little creaking noise. All dried out now and no creak to speak of. I was wondering though, should I strip some stuff down and check/clean/lube?

    If so, what should my list be?
    SC Megatower with fresh bb.
    In my experience, that's a great way to introduce a creak. If it's not making any noise, and nothing is loose, just clean it off and ride it.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  9. #1534
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    Mar 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by meepmoop24 View Post
    I used to spend a lot of time trying to get calipers aligned properly, then I spent a few bucks and got these: http://www.birzman.com/products_2.ph...&cID=4&Key=133

    Using these actually makes is so you can just squeeze the lever and retighten the bolts, without needing to move the caliper manually to align it.
    oh wow i had no idea this was an actual thing!
    ive been using this folded up lift ticket as that tool for the past 9 years haha
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  10. #1535
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by meepmoop24 View Post
    I used to spend a lot of time trying to get calipers aligned properly, then I spent a few bucks and got these: http://www.birzman.com/products_2.ph...&cID=4&Key=133

    Using these actually makes is so you can just squeeze the lever and retighten the bolts, without needing to move the caliper manually to align it.
    Been using those for a few years. Highly recommended.
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    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
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  11. #1536
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    Aug 2010
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    Park City
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    Quote Originally Posted by g_man80 View Post
    The 8000 rear derailleur pulls the cable a pretty extreme angle. They tend to break next to the cable clamp where it rubs on the aluminum. A couple suggestions that you may have tried:
    - When installing cable, get the adjustment right the first time. Don't clamp down on the cable, and then pull it out a little more and reclamp it. Clamping the cable weakens it, and it is prone to breakage at the clamping point.
    - Don't over-torque the clamp bolt.
    - Sand, file, or dremel a relief or fillet where you see silver rub marks on the derailleur housing. A small round file work well.

    Attachment 335674
    This was the issue. Hit it hard with some 800 grit. Hopefully I took off enough. Shame on me for not recognizing it after the first cable!!

  12. #1537
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    Quote Originally Posted by meepmoop24 View Post
    I used to spend a lot of time trying to get calipers aligned properly, then I spent a few bucks and got these: http://www.birzman.com/products_2.ph...&cID=4&Key=133

    Using these actually makes is so you can just squeeze the lever and retighten the bolts, without needing to move the caliper manually to align it.
    Thanks for this! Just ordered it off amazon. Aligning calipers is a pain.


    Re SB130 - it’s a superb bike. Climbs very well, fast, and capable on descents. Switch infinity is great IMO. I think it does act like it has more travel than 130mm, maybe more like 140ish (similar to my SB5.5). Only thing I didn’t like about the bike was the super low bottom bracket, we have a lot of rocky trails here + rocky technical climbs which = annoying pedal strikes. Overall bike feels kind of XC like but a lot more travel

    If your friend is willing to help you with any frame warranty claims down the road if they pop up I’d say go for it. I’d imagine you’ll be blown away by how much better it climbs and how much faster the bike will be for you than your old one

  13. #1538
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    " All frames 2019 or newer, including the Switch Infinity link, are covered for life against damage due to manufacturing defects for the original purchaser. "

    I played with preload a bit on the 5.5, it didn't seem to matter how much air in the shock it kind of rides the same

    usually I just leave the shock open all the time but yesturday I closed it for the climb and forgot about it during descent, didn't really notice it till the bottom and it still rode pretty good
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #1539
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    Apr 2014
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    Ask the experts

    On long climbs I’ll move the shock to firm position, does help in my experience. It’s not really locking out the shock though.


    Original purchaser is key word for warranty. So if the frame breaks and his friend is willing to help send it in for warranty claiming it’s his bike then that removes the only real downside of buying used. Maybe not a totally honest move, but I kind of think it’s BS for warranties to only apply to the original owner. Same as a car, your warranty should be guaranteeing the quality of the product, not be an added benefit of being the original owner. Not that Yeti has good history of honoring warranties anyways...

    Ripmo is finally built and ready to go, Fox 36 factory, X2 factory shock, XX1, Code RSC, Roval Carbon rims. Will be comparing back to back with my SB5.5 this weekend, loser gets put on pink bike. Pretty stoked, Geo feels perfect for me so far with the riser bar.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #1540
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    right missed that^^

    5.5 might be getting on in age might be time to move it on ?

    both are great bikes, my buddy the shop guy once told me " pink bike wrote the top bikes are SC/ yeti/ Ibis and we sell all 3 "
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #1541
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    Jan 2009
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    Saratoga Springs, NY
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    Anyone else ever deal with rattling pads in a SRAM Guide caliper? I know this is a thing people complain about with finned Shimano pads, but I can't find much about it with Guides. Its loud enough to be heard while riding at pace, and sounds (and even feels) like a loose pivot bolt. I've "confirmed" its the pads because anytime I'm even lightly dragging the brakes over bumps, it doesn't make the sound. I saw two suggested fixes: bend the pad retainer spring thing to make it go away (did this, helped briefly but I'm guessing the metal has a memory and it reverted) or ride the bike long enough for dirt/gunk to build up in the caliper and cease the rattle that way. The second option makes sense, but I'd really prefer something that doesn't take an indeterminate, and likely lengthy, amount of time.

    So... thoughts?

  17. #1542
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    Quote Originally Posted by radam View Post
    Anyone else ever deal with rattling pads in a SRAM Guide caliper? I know this is a thing people complain about with finned Shimano pads, but I can't find much about it with Guides. Its loud enough to be heard while riding at pace, and sounds (and even feels) like a loose pivot bolt. I've "confirmed" its the pads because anytime I'm even lightly dragging the brakes over bumps, it doesn't make the sound. I saw two suggested fixes: bend the pad retainer spring thing to make it go away (did this, helped briefly but I'm guessing the metal has a memory and it reverted) or ride the bike long enough for dirt/gunk to build up in the caliper and cease the rattle that way. The second option makes sense, but I'd really prefer something that doesn't take an indeterminate, and likely lengthy, amount of time.

    So... thoughts?
    pack it with grease?

    Maybe swing by a shop and see if you can bum a different pad retainer. I think a retainer that's properly formed should prevent the rattling. I'm guessing you just got a shitty one.

  18. #1543
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    Ask the experts

    The latch on my ancient toolbox broke putting me in the increasingly less comical situation where I forget, grab it by the handle, and spill everything out of my toolbox breaking several toes. On the plus side, I’ve gradually been paring it down removing useless items.

    Anybody got a suggestion for a decent, portable toolbox? Doesn’t need to be big, but some sort of organization system would be nice, with compartments for small items. The stackable Dewalt boxes look like they could work, but are kinda pricey when you start combining pieces.

    ETA, I may have already asked this. See above for an example of how well I remember things.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  19. #1544
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  20. #1545
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    Kind of a tough question to answer unless you have ridden a shit ton of different bikes:

    I am on a 2017 Knolly Warden Carbon 155mm rear/160 up front. Built up full enduro race sled style. Push coil, Quadiem brakes, 741/742 wheels with hefty tires + cush core, etc. 35 pounds. It's a fun bike but you REALLY need to get it up to like 25 mph before it comes alive.

    Friend wants to sell me a 2020 sb130. C1 build. Very light use. No brainer price.

    Ideally I want something that is still fun that I can also go do 40 maybe even 50 mile day rides with. 7000' climbing days. Is the sb130 (this one currently weighs 30.5 pounds and if anything it will get heavier when I upgrade a couple parts) as "do it all" as everyone says or is it to meant like you can do a 7 mile dentist out and back or a 15 mile loop. I feel like most kooks who are into big long rides are doing them on true XC bikes.

    Does that make any sense? If I really want to ride that long of rides or be competitive (stava nerd) on uphills do I need to hold out for like a sb115 or silimar?

    I know I am overthinking this. I just don't want to spend a bunch of money on a bike that has too much overlap with my current bike. 5 pounds and 25mm of rear travel is quite a gap though.

    Has anyone ridden both of these bikes?

  21. #1546
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Kind of a tough question to answer unless you have ridden a shit ton of different bikes:

    I am on a 2017 Knolly Warden Carbon 155mm rear/160 up front. Built up full enduro race sled style. Push coil, Quadiem brakes, 741/742 wheels with hefty tires + cush core, etc. 35 pounds. It's a fun bike but you REALLY need to get it up to like 25 mph before it comes alive.

    Friend wants to sell me a 2020 sb130. C1 build. Very light use. No brainer price.

    Ideally I want something that is still fun that I can also go do 40 maybe even 50 mile day rides with. 7000' climbing days. Is the sb130 (this one currently weighs 30.5 pounds and if anything it will get heavier when I upgrade a couple parts) as "do it all" as everyone says or is it to meant like you can do a 7 mile dentist out and back or a 15 mile loop. I feel like most kooks who are into big long rides are doing them on true XC bikes.

    Does that make any sense? If I really want to ride that long of rides or be competitive (stava nerd) on uphills do I need to hold out for like a sb115 or silimar?

    I know I am overthinking this. I just don't want to spend a bunch of money on a bike that has too much overlap with my current bike. 5 pounds and 25mm of rear travel is quite a gap though.

    Has anyone ridden both of these bikes?
    Just out of curiosity as I’m debating a 130 as well, what price did he offer you?? Feel free to PM if you don’t want it public. Just wanna see what they are going for.

    I also wonder how “ do it all” it is as well. Currently have a gen 1 Bronson and I am wondering if the 130 can supplement / replace that.


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  22. #1547
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    I9 hydra hubs, are they worth the $?

  23. #1548
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    The crown race seems really tight. How or would you force this on? (Fox fork)

  24. #1549
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    There are a couple of techniques if you don’t have the right tool. I have had success using the method of using the pre-load top cap to coax it on (using lots of grease), but sometimes all you end up doing is pulling the star nut up.
    Do you have access to some PVC?
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  25. #1550
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    There are a couple of techniques if you don’t have the right tool. I have had success using the method of using the pre-load top cap to coax it on (using lots of grease), but sometimes all you end up doing is pulling the star nut up.
    Do you have access to some PVC?
    Yes, I have PVC pipe. That was kind of what I was thinking, but I'm a wee bit scared of fn shit up.

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