Ask the experts

[Falcon3]

What freehub now? Sploded mine this morning. 11sp, shitmano. On an E fat bike so sees a bit more power through it than an acoustic bike.

Hard to imagine a more bomber hub than a DT350 with 16t in it

[Boissal]

Hard to imagine a more bomber hub than a DT350 with 16t in it

Is 16t more bomber than the 54t options? Cause if it's not it's definitely worth the minor added cost...

[Dee Hubbs]

Is 16t more bomber than the 54t options? Cause if it's not it's definitely worth the minor added cost...

Yes, the larger teeth on a 16T ratchets are burlier, there were initially some issues with the teeth fracturing on 54T ratchets, but DT made an in production change to the steel or treatment process and I have not heard of any issues since.

[jm2e]

Aren’t the 54s plastic?


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[rideit]

Mine aren't, definitely steel.

[HAB]

Aren’t the 54s plastic?


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Nope. They're steel, but with much smaller teeth than the 18t (there's no 16t) as noted.

[Touring_Sedan]

Is 16t more bomber than the 54t options? Cause if it's not it's definitely worth the minor added cost...

I've got 10K miles on a set of 54t, only serviced a few times. 200# kitted and I like to single speed all the things.

[Boissal]

Oh yeah it's supposed to be 18t, not 16t.
I did have an issue with a 54t but it was a knock-off set of ratchets bought on eBay for $4.99. I figured I'd try and see if they worked, they did for a couple weeks then some of the teeth sheared off and the hub was engaging sporadically at best. No issues for another 2500 miles once I bought the official DT 54t ratchets. The eBay seller had some 108t available, should have bought those as well to see how fast I could destroy them.

[jm2e]

The moral to the story is: DT are basically indestructible. Even in the rare event that someone blows up a star ratchet, they usually have the 18t ratchet sitting in their parts drawer. Two minute swap with zero tools or knowledge required and the hub is quite literally good as new. Try doing that with pawls!

[VTskibum]

^^^ that right there is why DT has become so prevalent.

Haven’t put enough miles yet, but my I9 1:1 hubs seem to be really good bang for buck w great engagement. Haven’t heard too many horror stories of I9 in general so hoping they work for long term. Contrast w Chris King which I’ll never buy another item from then ever again, overpriced, maintenance PITA, with special tools.


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[jackstraw]

When I went to 54t with my DT hub it felt like I switched to an ebike.

[gramboh]

Looking to pick up a left crank power meter for my road bike. Found a previous gen 4iiii in the right crank length for a good price (Precision). Anything to look out for/think about with a used power meter? I know the newer Precision 3 has way longer battery life and slightly slimmer profile, but we are talking $325-350CAD used vs. $672 (with tax) new. I'm not a pro by any means just want to know power when on the road.

[climberevan]

Looking to pick up a left crank power meter for my road bike. Found a previous gen 4iiii in the right crank length for a good price (Precision). Anything to look out for/think about with a used power meter? I know the newer Precision 3 has way longer battery life and slightly slimmer profile, but we are talking $325-350CAD used vs. $672 (with tax) new. I'm not a pro by any means just want to know power when on the road.

There's no good way to ensure a used PM won't get all wonky after a few months, and when that happens you won't have any warranty support. It happened to me with a Stages PM. They offered to rebuild it for $200, which would have been like $230 with shipping both ways, so I opted for a new closeout 4iiii for $255. The main reason was the 3y warranty vs only 90 days from Stages.

So you can roll the dice with a used one, but if you can get a decent discount on a new or factory refurbished one with a warranty I'd go that route.

Oh, and you likely already know this but all Shimano road Hollowtech arms are interchangeable, so you don't need to match the model. Ms CE has a 105 arm on her GRX crank, and they claim the offset is different, but if that's true it must only be 1mm bc I couldn't measure it.

[Dee Hubbs]

Looking to pick up a left crank power meter for my road bike. Found a previous gen 4iiii in the right crank length for a good price (Precision). Anything to look out for/think about with a used power meter? I know the newer Precision 3 has way longer battery life and slightly slimmer profile, but we are talking $325-350CAD used vs. $672 (with tax) new. I'm not a pro by any means just want to know power when on the road.

The best option is a Left Side only power meter like Stages, 4iiii etc.
Make sure there is clearance between the frame and crank arm to fit the power meter module. Most manufacturers have a diagram/directions to measure on the web page. Most gravel bikes designed to handle a wide gravel tire will not clearance to fit a left side only power meter.
Stages and 4iiii have factory install option, where you mail in your crank arm and they install the power meter. Usually $150 savings over a new model.
Battery life in my Stages Left Only is more than a full season of use, both outdoor and inside on the trainer.
I have a few Stages Shimano Left Only listed on Pinkbike:
-2021 Stages Power Meter, Gen3, 170 Ultegra R8000 for $300
-2019 Stages Power Meter, Gen2, 170 Ultegra 6800 for $250
PM me if this length work for you, and I'll guarantee that my used model work.

[climberevan]

Buy one of DH's arms.

You should definitely check to be sure it will fit your frame, but I think it's a stretch to say that "most" gravel bikes won't allow it. I have had Stages Shimano arms on 4 different gravel frames. 2 of them fit 45mm tires and one will fit 50s. Maybe DH's super fancy frames have less room for some reason.

[NuMexJoe]

My 2018-era GX 11-speed derailleur is making some noise I can't sort out. The Wipperman Connex 11-speed chain shows not quite to 0.5% on a Pedro's Chain checker, and with the chain removed, both pulleys spin freely without any wobble. I lubed both a while ago when the noise first cropped up, and double-checked that the pulleys were sync'ed with the chain. The hanger is straight, and the B screw is keeping the pulley away from the cogs (just). Per the linked YT video below (you may need to turn up the volume, but it seems awfully loud when in the saddle), when I relieve just a bit of tension from the clutch, it goes quiet. I'm perplexed, and thought I'd ask the experts here before I drop $75 on a new derailleur that may not solve the problem. I need to replace the cable housing, but that seems unrelated. Thoughts?
https://youtu.be/lB50fhwFQY8

[Andeh]

Even if you lubed them, the pulleys still could have worn out bearings, especially if they're 4+ years old. Or the pulley teeth could be worn down.

[evdog]

What's the pencil sharpener for?

[rideit]

To sharpen pencils.

[NuMexJoe]

To sharpen pencils.

Yep, simple as that; to sharpen pencils in my shop.

So I take it worn pulleys would cause noise like that? I've never actually worn out a derailleur. They've usually been mangled in the spokes or grenaded on a rock before they get worn out. But I did read a review that said the GX 11-speed pulleys wear quickly. Thanks, Andeh. Given the cost of replacement pulleys, I'll just order a new derailleur today.

[rideit]

Your LBS *probably* has some pulleys kicking around from an exploderated derailleur, bring some beer.

[gramboh]

There's no good way to ensure a used PM won't get all wonky after a few months, and when that happens you won't have any warranty support. It happened to me with a Stages PM. They offered to rebuild it for $200, which would have been like $230 with shipping both ways, so I opted for a new closeout 4iiii for $255. The main reason was the 3y warranty vs only 90 days from Stages.

So you can roll the dice with a used one, but if you can get a decent discount on a new or factory refurbished one with a warranty I'd go that route.

Oh, and you likely already know this but all Shimano road Hollowtech arms are interchangeable, so you don't need to match the model. Ms CE has a 105 arm on her GRX crank, and they claim the offset is different, but if that's true it must only be 1mm bc I couldn't measure it.

Buy one of DH's arms.

You should definitely check to be sure it will fit your frame, but I think it's a stretch to say that "most" gravel bikes won't allow it. I have had Stages Shimano arms on 4 different gravel frames. 2 of them fit 45mm tires and one will fit 50s. Maybe DH's super fancy frames have less room for some reason.

Thanks guys, getting the Precision 3 from DH, it will fit with tons of space there's lots of clearance on my bike. Stoked to get a newer model from a trusted mag at a good price, cheers DH!

[Roxtar]

^^^ that right there is why DT has become so prevalent.

Haven’t put enough miles yet, but my I9 1:1 hubs seem to be really good bang for buck w great engagement. Haven’t heard too many horror stories of I9 in general so hoping they work for long term. Contrast w Chris King which I’ll never buy another item from then ever again, overpriced, maintenance PITA, with special tools.


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Not getting the CK hate on this board.
I've been a CK user for decades. Their hubs are amazingly engineered. The attention to detail on everything they make is incredible.
Expensive? Yes, but no more than any top level part. Priced a DT240 lately?
Maintenance? Every couple years you pull them apart, wash them out, spread a little lube, and slide them back together. Hell, the bearings will outlast the cockroaches in nuclear winter.
Special tools? I suppose but only if you need to do a complete teardown which is rare. I've never had to do one.

All that said, I've switched to I9's system wheels. Not due to any CK negativity, just because I9's alum spoke system makes the most laterally solid wheel I've ever used. Everything else now feels like a noodle.

[toast2266]

Not getting the CK hate on this board.
I've been a CK user for decades. Their hubs are amazingly engineered. The attention to detail on everything they make is incredible.
Expensive? Yes, but no more than any top level part. Priced a DT240 lately?
Maintenance? Every couple years you pull them apart, wash them out, spread a little lube, and slide them back together. Hell, the bearings will outlast the cockroaches in nuclear winter.
Special tools? I suppose but only if you need to do a complete teardown which is rare. I've never had to do one.

All that said, I've switched to I9's system wheels. Not due to any CK negativity, just because I9's alum spoke system makes the most laterally solid wheel I've ever used. Everything else now feels like a noodle.

My CK's come loose every 4th ride or so. The bearing preload adjustment doesn't stay in place. And they've eaten some bearing races (which they warrantied).

They also weigh a substantial amount more than almost every other comparable hub. Which matters because it's unsprung weight.

Given that I've had zero issue with 240's, which are substantially lighter and in the same ballpark for price, I don't see myself ever using CK's again.

[Roxtar]

My 2018-era GX 11-speed derailleur is making some noise I can't sort out. The Wipperman Connex 11-speed chain shows not quite to 0.5% on a Pedro's Chain checker, and with the chain removed, both pulleys spin freely without any wobble. I lubed both a while ago when the noise first cropped up, and double-checked that the pulleys were sync'ed with the chain. The hanger is straight, and the B screw is keeping the pulley away from the cogs (just). Per the linked YT video below (you may need to turn up the volume, but it seems awfully loud when in the saddle), when I relieve just a bit of tension from the clutch, it goes quiet. I'm perplexed, and thought I'd ask the experts here before I drop $75 on a new derailleur that may not solve the problem. I need to replace the cable housing, but that seems unrelated. Thoughts?
https://youtu.be/lB50fhwFQY8

Most of this will be Captain Obvious but:
Does noise change at all when you adjust shift cable tension to each side?
Did you set B tension with the Sram gage?
How does the chainring look?