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Thread: Ask the experts
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04-14-2021, 03:34 PM #4151Dad core
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Location
- Back in Seattle
- Posts
- 1,276
Headset is a good place to check. it is most noticeable when standing and cranking on the bars. Bike is probably due for a teardown and regrease on a bunch of parts.
The only carbon I have on either mtb is in rims, I like the stiffness and hopefully they last longer. Alloy everything else because I am 200lbs+ and prefer durability over lightweight.
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04-14-2021, 07:46 PM #4152Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- LA
- Posts
- 293
What did I just do to my Topaz T3? Had a great, chunky ride last night, but noticed sag (at about 210 psi) was closer to 35% and I still wasn't getting the last 3mm of travel despite a 3' drop to flat, so tonight I let the air out of the shock, slipped off the air sleeve o-ring and then the air sleeve, removed the single volume spacer I had on the positive side (leaving me with none on pos or neg), slid the air sleeve back on, put the o-ring in place, aired up (equalizing in 50# increments) to 220pis, and now I can bottom the shock by hand pressure even though the pump (still attached) shows 220#. I'm perplexed. Also 2 beers in, but it's a pretty straightforward operation that I've done previously. Didn't touch the bladder, and the pump seems to be working correctly (if I detach and then re-attach to the schraeder valve, it shows I've got pressure in the air sleeve).
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04-15-2021, 07:41 AM #4153
Another suspension pressure question.
Pump up to the desired pressure, remove pump, reattach pump to check the pressure and it' s a few psi less. Do I need to add that amount to the target psi or is the gauge correct after inflation and it takes a few psi to fill the shock pump hose?
Am I over thinking this?
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04-15-2021, 07:51 AM #4154
The nerds at bike rumor covered that one
https://bikerumor.com/2018/10/11/sus...-a-shock-pump/
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04-15-2021, 07:57 AM #4155
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04-15-2021, 08:04 AM #4156
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04-15-2021, 09:10 AM #4157Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- LA
- Posts
- 293
Thanks, toast. That kinda makes sense, as I wasn't really seeing any pressure drop on the gauge as I was doing the every-50# equalization. I'll pull the air sleeve again and see if I nicked the seal when I slid it back on yesterday. {edit: You nailed it. The seal was pinched. It was opposite the side I where I was sitting so I didn't see it as I slid the air sleeve back on. Time to order a kit, unless I get lucky on the o-ring selection at the hardware store. Thx again.}
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04-15-2021, 07:30 PM #4158
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04-15-2021, 07:42 PM #4159
I think Shimano are always cup and cone all the way up to XTR.
Decent in that they will work and be manufacturered accurately. They will not make Redbull edit worthy buzzing noises. Engagement will not be using a 2000 tooth driver either. So pretty much unusable for a dentist bike
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04-15-2021, 07:46 PM #4160Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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04-15-2021, 08:22 PM #4161
I excel at destroying cartridge bearings in rear hubs. Front hubs seem to last fine though.
I don't mind cup and cone at all. All the Shimano hubs I've ever had have been fine - and none have been through axle, so wasn't sure if Shimano had changed to cartridge with through axle hubs.
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04-15-2021, 11:10 PM #4162
I was an idiot with a torque wrench and snapped off one of the steerer tube stem bolts from my brand new race face turbine. Anyone know what size stem steerer tube bolts usually are? Saw some talk of m5? M6? Are replacements readily available? Saw some titanium bolts for sale on line but what’s the deal with the strength on those? The site says only to torque them to 5nm which doesn’t seem likely to keep the stem from moving around on the steerer? Any help is appreciated, in the mean time, I’ll be cursing and attempting to fish the broken end out of the threads.
Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?
fuck that noise.
gmen.
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04-15-2021, 11:17 PM #4163
Usually m5, between 16-20mm.
Last edited by rideit; 04-16-2021 at 09:23 AM.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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04-16-2021, 12:08 AM #4164
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04-16-2021, 05:12 AM #4165
That’s fucked. That’s a bad bolt from a bad batch of bolts. Talk to Race Face.
I’ll be curious to hear whether you can salvage the stem.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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04-16-2021, 07:17 AM #4166
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04-16-2021, 08:44 AM #4167
The steerer bolts on those stems should have a clean hole on the back side (not a blind hole). You can punch a centering hole on the bolt and use a drill bit to start in that hole. Once the drill bit catches the soft bolt, it should spin clockwise and continue to thread it self out the back side of the bolt hole.
If you dont want to risk the chance it wont spin out the back side (or if someone else if faced with a broken bolt in a blind hole) a set of left hand drill bits are a great saver. They catch/bite into the material and then spin the broken bolt right out of the blind hole.
Best $20 I've ever spent in the my tool collection.
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04-16-2021, 08:45 AM #4168
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04-16-2021, 08:49 AM #4169
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04-16-2021, 09:16 AM #4170
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04-16-2021, 09:16 AM #4171Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,026
30 yars of doing fasteners without breaking them so I never use a tork wrench on bikes,
I just do it up till it snaps and then back off 1/4 turnLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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04-16-2021, 09:19 AM #4172
M5x16mm SHCS will work for the steerer clamp bolt on a Turbine.
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04-16-2021, 09:21 AM #4173
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04-16-2021, 11:59 AM #4174
Yup, very slim chance of success.
Buy a new stem
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-Pr.../dp/B00C4Z00Q8
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04-16-2021, 12:32 PM #4175Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Location
- NorCal coast
- Posts
- 1,967
I snapped the head off one of the steerer tube bolts on an I-9 stem, also despite using a torque wrench. I was able to carefully drill it out through trial and error, but it took about an hour going back and forth from each side. Eventually I was able to catch the broken stub enough with the bit and screw it through to the point I was able to grab it with pliers and screw it through the rest of the way. I did mangle the beginnings of the threads a little bit with the drill bit, but after the first time threading a new bolt in it seems to go in fine.
Moral of the story is don't trust torque specs if they say 7n-m for an M5. Stop at 5n-m. That's snug enough that it won't move. Remember, bar clamps are like 3n-m, so 5 is a bit more than that.
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