Ask the experts

[NW_SKIER]

Dude. Do not get into this weight thing with me. I made it clear I am the anti weight weenie and my component choice was about vanity. I ride a big bike and I ski big skis with big boots. I don't give much of a fuck how much things weigh, I have the legs to get them to the top and I'm in it for the fun on the down.

Awfully defensive there.

[toast2266]

All durability issues aside, a 700g cassette is a massive amount of unsprung weight. You can do all the custom tuning with your shocks that you want, but if you attach a lead brick to your rear hub, the suspension is gonna feel like shit.

[sethschmautz]

Or keep the 10speed and just get a wide-range 10s cassette https://cambriabike.com/products/mic...saArWLEALw_wcB

Not sure if you're derailleur could handle it though, might need to upgrade that as well but microshift is cheap. Cassette is $45 and derailleur is $76 https://www.universalcycles.com/shop....php?id=102640

I think this is a really descent option. You can get most/all of the wide range availability with 10 or 11 speed - not necessary to go straight to 12. The microshift is reasonable priced and weight isn't bad either. The jumps between the gears will be bigger, however. This is usually something people just get used to.

Sunrace has a few other 12 speed cassettes that are are better, weight-wise. Down around 500g. Take a look at the CSMZ913 or even the CSMZ90 (around 520g). 12 speed and 11-51 gearing. Cost is likely more than the Microshift, but if you already have the GX group, this might be a relatively inexpensive way to get the added range, no XD driver necessary.

Lastly, the suggestion above to Boissal about a smaller chainring is valid here also. I just moved my wife from a 30x11-50 to a 26x9-46 drivetrain. By reducing the chainring size you can get a great granny gear and don't need to run 51t in the cassette.

[XXX-er]

I went from a stock 30T to an absolute black 28T on my 5.5 cuz of all the climbing, I don't know if the un-round chin ring did anything in the easier peddling dept cuz I didnt really do a round/unround back to back but I think it at least dropped the gearing enough

I don't know how small you can go without running into the spider on a spidered crank but the splined interface of the race face Affect cranks allow any size of chainring that is available and it was a good crank IME

changing chain rings affects suspension to some degree apparently

[tgapp]

I think this is a really descent option. You can get most/all of the wide range availability with 10 or 11 speed - not necessary to go straight to 12. The microshift is reasonable priced and weight isn't bad either. The jumps between the gears will be bigger, however. This is usually something people just get used to.

Sunrace has a few other 12 speed cassettes that are are better, weight-wise. Down around 500g. Take a look at the CSMZ913 or even the CSMZ90 (around 520g). 12 speed and 11-51 gearing. Cost is likely more than the Microshift, but if you already have the GX group, this might be a relatively inexpensive way to get the added range, no XD driver necessary.

Lastly, the suggestion above to Boissal about a smaller chainring is valid here also. I just moved my wife from a 30x11-50 to a 26x9-46 drivetrain. By reducing the chainring size you can get a great granny gear and don't need to run 51t in the cassette.

This is great advice, thank you. Gonna order up a SunRace CSMZ903, since those are in stock. If that still doesn't cut it, I'll get her on a smaller chainring.

Next question: the included dropper post is too tall, and I've already inserted it all the way into the seat post. Is there anything I can do here other than order a new dropper? Any recommendations for a good, cheap dropper for a non-discerning rider?

Cheers!

[toast2266]

Lastly, the suggestion above to Boissal about a smaller chainring is valid here also. I just moved my wife from a 30x11-50 to a 26x9-46 drivetrain. By reducing the chainring size you can get a great granny gear and don't need to run 51t in the cassette.

Although worth noting that those small rings will significantly increase the anti squat and pedal kickback numbers on most frames. It'll vary from frame to frame, but on some frames it has the potential to kinda make the suspension feel pretty bad.

[XXX-er]

I think there is no way around changing a too long dropper, I was buying a bike over the phone last week so shop bro asked me for my inseam to seat top measurement and he said they might have to change it, so i measured it on 3 bikes ( same) but they didnt have to change it

there is post with a cheap easily changeable cartridge someone with more knowledge can give you more info on

[sethschmautz]

Although worth noting that those small rings will significantly increase the anti squat and pedal kickback numbers on most frames. It'll vary from frame to frame, but on some frames it has the potential to kinda make the suspension feel pretty bad.

I never think about this but should. Thanks for the reminder.

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[J. Barron DeJong]

Although worth noting that those small rings will significantly increase the anti squat and pedal kickback numbers on most frames. It'll vary from frame to frame, but on some frames it has the potential to kinda make the suspension feel pretty bad.

Or it could make it feel better. I *think* going from a 32T ring to a 30T ring has made my Norco Optic a bit more efficient climbing, but there’s a very good chance it’s all in my head.

Also, I’m 6’4” on an XL frame. Much more likely that a larger frame is going to have lower than ideal anti-squat numbers (since the suspension was likely designed to work best on M or L frame sizes). A small frame may already have more than ideal anti-squat and going to a smaller ring could exacerbate that.

[Canada1]

What is the best way to set up a road bike for flats. He’s burned through 3 tubes in 250 miles. Put some orange seal in them? I used to be a roadie, but have not owned a road bike in 25 years. Bought this for a kid in college.

[toast2266]

Or it could make it feel better. I *think* going from a 32T ring to a 30T ring has made my Norco Optic a bit more efficient climbing, but there’s a very good chance it’s all in my head.

Also, I’m 6’4” on an XL frame. Much more likely that a larger frame is going to have lower than ideal anti-squat numbers (since the suspension was likely designed to work best on M or L frame sizes). A small frame may already have more than ideal anti-squat and going to a smaller ring could exacerbate that.

Maybe. The amount of anti-squat that's "perfect" for any given rider is certainly going to be a matter of personal preference. And the center of mass on a taller rider is certainly going to be in a different spot than with a shorter rider, which would alter the anti squat numbers to some extent (although this is offset a bit by the rest of the bike being bigger).

But on most bikes, the suspension linkage is identical between sizes. At most, there's a difference in chainstay length, but it's do-able to compensate for that with regard to anti-squat. So how the drivetrain interacts with forces coming from the ground doesn't really change between sizes. The only difference is how much those forces counteract weight shifts from the rider.

So there's potentially a benefit from a change in the anti-squat numbers while climbing (with the caveat that it's largely personal preference whether more or less anti squat is desirable). But for descending, it's the chain growth / pedal kickback that's gonna make the suspension feel worse, and that's not going to change between sizes. It'll vary from frame to frame as to how much different chainring sizes mess with that. But on a lot of frames, going to a small ring will substantially increase kickback, which in turn makes your suspension not work particularly well.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Don’t disagree with any of that. Given my bike is relatively short travel (125mm), hub doesn’t have crazy fast engagement, and I don’t tend to hit big obstacles at lower speeds on most of my rides, kickback hasn’t been a issue for me. If I was riding different trail, and on a longer travel enduro bike, kickback could become and issue for sure.

Typically my climbs are on pretty smooth trail, so I’m more concerned with efficiency than traction over bumps.

[Dantheman]

Next question: the included dropper post is too tall, and I've already inserted it all the way into the seat post. Is there anything I can do here other than order a new dropper? Any recommendations for a good, cheap dropper for a non-discerning rider?

Cheers!

The amount of drop is fixed on all the posts I'm aware of except for OneUp (OneUp's can be shimmed down 10-20 mm). However, I've run into this issue on my kid's bikes and came up with an easy and cheap, albeit slightly kludgy, solution. I set the seat height where he liked it, then strung a few zip ties together and looped them through the seat rail and seat clamp bolt. Boom, ghetto travel limiter. When dropped it stayed tucked away by the seat tube nicely. YMMV, but trying it out is cheap and you can do it right now as a temporary fix if nothing else.

If you'd rather not ghetto-rig it, your best option for a decent cheap dropper is TranzX: https://na.tranzx.com/

The TranzX posts are also commonly rebranded. They're also sold as the Brand-X Ascend, PNW Rainier, RaceFace Aeffect, and maybe some others. It would also be worth looking for a used post on KSL and/or Pinkbike. You might be able to save some money by buying just a post w/o a remote since you already have one, but some posts use the cable stop at the post and some put it at the remote (this is less common these days) so you'll want to be sure which configuration you current remote uses.

Before you buy a new post I'd suggest pulling the current post and measuring the length from the seat clamp to the end of the actuator. Then, make sure whatever new post you're looking at is sufficiently shorter before you buy it. OneUp has a handy diagram and chart that breaks down all the critical dimensions: https://www.oneupcomponents.com/prod...ropper-post-v2 Those OneUp posts have the shortest total length for a given amount of drop and if you don't need a remote they're fairly cheap, so that's also an option worth considering.

Also pay attention to seat tube/post diameters if you buy something. If her frame is 31.6 or 34.9 you can run a 30.9 with a shim, but if it's a 30.9 mm seat tube and you buy a 31.6 or 34.9 mm post yer fucked.

[Tailwind]

I have a short KS lev I’m going to unload soon. It’s in great shape. I’ll send you a PM.

This is great advice, thank you. Gonna order up a SunRace CSMZ903, since those are in stock. If that still doesn't cut it, I'll get her on a smaller chainring.

Next question: the included dropper post is too tall, and I've already inserted it all the way into the seat post. Is there anything I can do here other than order a new dropper? Any recommendations for a good, cheap dropper for a non-discerning rider?

Cheers!

[anotherVTskibum]

What is the best way to set up a road bike for flats. He’s burned through 3 tubes in 250 miles. Put some orange seal in them? I used to be a roadie, but have not owned a road bike in 25 years. Bought this for a kid in college.

Not to suggest that college kids sometimes make questionable decisions, but have you reviewed the possibility of pilot error with him?

The only time I had a flat rate like that, I was failing to account for the relative wimpiness of a roadie tire versus a moto tire hitting debris, or I was riding tires that needed replacement.

If the riding conditions are particularly gnarly and dodging the pokey stuff isn't realistic, I'd consider if beefier tires might be appropriate. I forget what they were, but I know my avid-cyclist friend ran something different while living in Arizona due to pointy local vegetation.

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[toast2266]

Don’t disagree with any of that. Given my bike is relatively short travel (125mm), hub doesn’t have crazy fast engagement, and I don’t tend to hit big obstacles at lower speeds on most of my rides, kickback hasn’t been a issue for me. If I was riding different trail, and on a longer travel enduro bike, kickback could become and issue for sure.

Typically my climbs are on pretty smooth trail, so I’m more concerned with efficiency than traction over bumps.

Yeah, that makes sense. I feel like kickback and, to a lesser extent anti-squat, aren't super noticeable on shorter travel bikes. There just isn't enough suspension movement for it to really matter.

My spur has the lowest anti squat numbers of any bike I've owned in quite a while. And I'm sure it'd maybe be slightly snappier on the pedals with more anti-squat, but it just doesn't seem to matter that much for a short travel bike like that.

[cydwhit]

Yeah, that makes sense. I feel like kickback and, to a lesser extent anti-squat, aren't super noticeable on shorter travel bikes. There just isn't enough suspension movement for it to really matter.

My spur has the lowest anti squat numbers of any bike I've owned in quite a while. And I'm sure it'd maybe be slightly snappier on the pedals with more anti-squat, but it just doesn't seem to matter that much for a short travel bike like that.

Just went from a 32 to a 30t on my Spur because chainline/bb issues. A quick pedal around the block reveals that it's wildly more efficient, but sends my feet flying off the pedals every time I hit a curb.

JK, it feels the same but my easy gear is easier.

A buddy put a 28t ring on a bike designed around a 34t, and claimed it made it noticeably more snappy pedaling, but he also was planning on racing a 100 mile XC race on a 170 mm bike, so I take everything he says with a fair amount of salt.

[toast2266]

Just went from a 32 to a 30t on my Spur because chainline/bb issues. A quick pedal around the block reveals that it's wildly more efficient, but sends my feet flying off the pedals every time I hit a curb.

JK, it feels the same but my easy gear is easier.

A buddy put a 28t ring on a bike designed around a 34t, and claimed it made it noticeably more snappy pedaling, but he also was planning on racing a 100 mile XC race on a 170 mm bike, so I take everything he says with a fair amount of salt.

Yeah, I went from a 34 to a 32 on the spur. Obviously a life changing improvement in suspension-ing.

I'm sure there are some suspension designs where you can go down to a 28t without any substantially negative impacts. I honestly can't say I really ever look at anti-squat or kickback numbers for anything but a 32t on bikes these days.

[Mr. Toad]

I have a brake problem. It’s a Shimano XT 2 piston from a couple years ago. The lever is going all the way to the bars. I figured it’s air in the system so I bled it. I’ve probably bled brakes at least a hundred times, many of which were Shimano mineral oils. I followed the instructions exactly. After a bleed, the brake is ok but after a few squeezes, the lever goes limp, back to the bars. I don’t see a leak anywhere. If I pump the lever it will bite again but then it will lose power again. Weird. Anyone experienced this?

Edit for more info: just after a fresh bleed the brake feels fine but during a ride the lever goes all the way down. When I stop and pump the lever, it’ll feel fine again. I just ordered a new brake so I’ll be doing a post-mortem after it arrives.

[joetron]

I have a brake problem. It’s a Shimano XT 2 piston from a couple years ago. The lever is going all the way to the bars. I figured it’s air in the system so I bled it. I’ve probably bled brakes at least a hundred times, many of which were Shimano mineral oils. I followed the instructions exactly. After a bleed, the brake is ok but after a few squeezes, the lever goes limp, back to the bars. I don’t see a leak anywhere. If I pump the lever it will bite again but then it will lose power again. Weird. Anyone experienced this?

Are you doing a cup/lever bleed, or putting the syringe on the caliper as well?
I have a conspiracy theory that gas bubbles hide behind the pistons and contribute to the wandering lever issue.
I use the syringe to create a little negative pressure in the system and take the caliper off the frame and move it around while gently pulling on the plunger.
I think Shimano still recommends pushing fluid from caliper to lever, but that just ensures you use 3x the fluid.
Pull at the caliper, move the caliper and keep the cup topped off.
Close the caliper bleed valve and then do a cup bleed, using the plunger to create some negative pressure like you’re plunging a deuce.


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[Mr. Toad]

Yea, I did the bottom up approach first (I have the large jug-o-fluid so I didn’t mind wasting it) then the cup/lever bleed. I even tilted the lever several times and unscrewed that Phillips screw a few turns (what does that screw do anyway). Bizzarro. Next time I’ll try removing the calipers and see what happens. Majority of times a quick top to bottom flush will do the job so I’m perplexed.

[skaredshtles]

That's a Shimano brake feature...

[J. Barron DeJong]

Have you tried the Santa Cruz Syndicate method where they remove the caliper bleed screw completely:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=piWBVDh1pTE

Also note that they leave the ‘free stroke’ adjustment screw 1/4 turn from fully closed to make sure fluid doesn’t get blocked from moving between the reservoir and master cylinder.

[evdog]

Have you tried the Santa Cruz Syndicate method where they remove the caliper bleed screw completely:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=piWBVDh1pTE

Also note that they leave the ‘free stroke’ adjustment screw 1/4 turn from fully closed to make sure fluid doesn’t get blocked from moving between the reservoir and master cylinder.

I used that method to bleed some Zee brakes that had been sitting in a box for a couple years as I figured the brake fluid should be fully changed out. It worked perfect on the rear brake, nice and crisp/firm feel. The front brake feels spongy so there might be something wrong with the seals or something else. I've been meaning to go back and re-bleed it so see if that makes any difference. Normally I just bleed from the top using the cup. Works great and takes just a few seconds, but has to be done every couple months or so as it doesn't get air bubbles as well from the caliper.

[Tailwind]

I hadn’t seen this before. Really interesting.

My big ‘tip’ is just to always remove the caliper from the bike so you can tap/rotate as you’re doing the bleed. I’ve had some tricky stuck bubbles that don’t leave while the brakes are mounted.

Have you tried the Santa Cruz Syndicate method where they remove the caliper bleed screw completely:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=piWBVDh1pTE

Also note that they leave the ‘free stroke’ adjustment screw 1/4 turn from fully closed to make sure fluid doesn’t get blocked from moving between the reservoir and master cylinder.