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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8426
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    12,497
    I had a similar issue 2 years ago that came from a kink in the housing... caused by catching on a downed tree/branch when trying to ride above my pay grade.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  2. #8427
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    830
    Anyone know what size/length laces to order for five ten free rider pros?

    i don’t have an intact lace to measure.

  3. #8428
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,982
    B-tension was fine. Turned the clutch off and it shifted fine. Serviced clutch and reinstalled. Still wouldn't shift out of 1st with the clutch on. Turned the clutch on and off a few times to A/B and this happened:




    Is this repairable or am I buying a new derailleur? On the upside, it's shifting great!

  4. #8429
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    B-tension was fine. Turned the clutch off and it shifted fine. Serviced clutch and reinstalled. Still wouldn't shift out of 1st with the clutch on. Turned the clutch on and off a few times to A/B and this happened:




    Is this repairable or am I buying a new derailleur? On the upside, it's shifting great!
    I’ve had that happen, Shimano sent me a new part on warranty for free.

  5. #8430
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    706
    Shit! I don’t know any about replacing that lever assembly, but maybe a local shop will help with a goodwill warranty replacement.

    Edit: looks like that lever and c clip might be about $15.

    Also, maybe someone can confirm, but I think the long tab of the clutch clamp should goes towards the from against the cam. The short side to the back against the adjustment screw.

  6. #8431
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,982
    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    I’ve had that happen, Shimano sent me a new part on warranty for free.
    Oh nice. So replacing the lever assembly is pretty easy then?

    Eta: Nevermind. Looked it up, stupid easy and a $5 part, what a relief. Hopefully it shifts right after I replace it....

  7. #8432
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,040
    Is it pointless to top up sealant when there is lumps of old sealant already rolling around?

    Probably going to change tires in a month or so, so trying to avoid messing around with them untill then

  8. #8433
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Van
    Posts
    3,763
    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Is it pointless to top up sealant when there is lumps of old sealant already rolling around?

    Probably going to change tires in a month or so, so trying to avoid messing around with them untill then
    Having liquid sealant in there is better than not having liquid sealant, and I don’t think the Stan’s boogers will cause much of an issue other than rattling around.

    Ideally, you’d pop the bead off and pull out the chunks of dried sealant. But there’s a risk that the bead of the tire is stuck to the rim tape, and unseating the tire will pull up the tape and wreck the seal, requiring you to re-tape.

    If it were me, I’d feed in some new sealant through the valve stem, or pull off the bead with the expectation that you might have to re-tape, which you may have to do anyway when you get your new tires.

    And when you get your new tires, best practice is to use fresh sealant. But I have definitely reused sealant from an older tire and added some new sealant to make up any missing volume.

  9. #8434
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,040
    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    Having liquid sealant in there is better than not having liquid sealant, and I don’t think the Stan’s boogers will cause much of an issue other than rattling around.

    Ideally, you’d pop the bead off and pull out the chunks of dried sealant. But there’s a risk that the bead of the tire is stuck to the rim tape, and unseating the tire will pull up the tape and wreck the seal, requiring you to re-tape.

    If it were me, I’d feed in some new sealant through the valve stem, or pull off the bead with the expectation that you might have to re-tape, which you may have to do anyway when you get your new tires.

    And when you get your new tires, best practice is to use fresh sealant. But I have definitely reused sealant from an older tire and added some new sealant to make up any missing volume.
    Thanks.
    Yeah, the risk of having to re-tape is the main thing I’m trying to avoid before changing tires.

    I’ll put in some sealant tomorrow

  10. #8435
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    10,249

    Ask the experts

    There are eleventy options for sealant injectors. I still use my trusty syringe with plastic hose from TruckerCo, but you can get a lot fancier than that these days. It’s a must-have, IMO, cause pulling the bead to top off sealant is a comparative PIA and risky.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  11. #8436
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,662
    Use the stans injector myself, but in a pinch the 2 oz stans or similar squirt bottle also work great for injecting new sealant through the valve.

  12. #8437
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,684
    Quote Originally Posted by singlesline View Post
    Anyone know what size/length laces to order for five ten free rider pros?

    i don’t have an intact lace to measure.
    I'd say shorter than they come with as the ones they supply are too damn long. I have some but don't have any interest in taking them out to measure, sorry.

  13. #8438
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    536
    Great excuse to order some LockLaces and never tie your shoes again. All my sports shoes have been converted and now I just reuse the laces when I get a new pair. Never failed on me once.

  14. #8439
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    In a van... down by the river
    Posts
    13,767
    Am I the only one that has never had a sealant booger in their tires?

    I use Continental sealant, FTR.

    That reminds me - I should probably buy another bottle...

  15. #8440
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    I never get boogers. I change tires out multiple times a year so it doesn't have time to form. I use the 2oz bottle often.

  16. #8441
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Your Mom's House
    Posts
    8,307
    No harm in adding more sealant when boogers are rattling around in there, especially if you're going to replace the tire soon anyway. Done it many times, never died.

    I actually think the 2oz bottle works better than the Stans injector.

  17. #8442
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,888
    I also just use the 2oz Stans bottle.
    I use the Stans regular sealant with a bottle, but the “Race Sealant” is to chunky to get through valve stem.

  18. #8443
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,332
    I use the Stan's injector - works great despite usually being a little messy.

    I've tried the 2oz bottle w/o success. I can't get enough flow, until I cut the tip off enough that it no longer seats in the valve stem. I guess like drilling a precision hole in the tip would probably work, but I've always wondered if I could get something to work on the trail (I do carry a 2oz on the trail, but with no confidence I could actually get it into the tire).

    Tips?

  19. #8444
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,931
    I also just use a Stan's 2oz bottle. But with orange seal.

  20. #8445
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    830
    Generic amazon syringe with a hose and a rigid plastic "needle": https://www.amazon.com/Thinvik-Tubel...7W1HVYKC&psc=1 This one even comes with a core removal tool.

    Don't need any fancy features like a valve (wtf?) or a screw-on interface.

    The plastic needle isn't narrow enough to go all the way through the hole at the bottom of my WTB valves so I can't remove sealant without breaking bead (should work with some other valve designs that have larger holes)...but as long as I don't push it in super fast, it has no problem filling through the valve.

  21. #8446
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,043
    IME an old orange seal bottle works fine for injecting stans
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #8447
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,982
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    There are eleventy options for sealant injectors. I still use my trusty syringe with plastic hose from TruckerCo, but you can get a lot fancier than that these days. It’s a must-have, IMO, cause pulling the bead to top off sealant is a comparative PIA and risky.
    TruckerCo syringe definitely gets it done. People are still popping beads to add sealant in 2022, WTF?

  23. #8448
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Land of Brine Shrimp and Magic Underwear
    Posts
    6,783
    Honestly, for shame, I was doing this until a year or two ago. Def relative PIA but never really had issues. Injecting is so much easier but my home brew sealant is pretty chunky making it barely doable, but still better than breaking the bead.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air

  24. #8449
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,332
    Quote Originally Posted by beaterdit View Post
    Honestly, for shame, I was doing this until a year or two ago. Def relative PIA but never really had issues. Injecting is so much easier but my home brew sealant is pretty chunky making it barely doable, but still better than breaking the bead.
    Home brew sealant? Do tell.

    Hopefully it's not too...ropey

  25. #8450
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Land of Brine Shrimp and Magic Underwear
    Posts
    6,783
    Quote Originally Posted by skizix View Post
    Home brew sealant? Do tell.

    Hopefully it's not too...ropey
    LOL

    I buy natural latex rubber mold builder. Used to buy it by the quart, $25?, that would make three quarts. Now I've had a gallon can for four(?) years, $80. Makes three gallons of sealant. That'd be $240 worth of standard Stan's, if you're springing for the race sealant, it's a lot more.

    My recipe is:

    1 part RV winterizer/antifreeze (non-toxic/biodegradable)
    2 parts latex mold builder
    3 parts H2O
    +/- glitter as desired

    Been on this program for a decade now. Works well.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air

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