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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8576
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    50 miles E of Paradise
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    Tire spooging question -
    Maxxis Ardent 2.4 is weeping (Stan’s) spooge around the bead
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Running 20-25psi (I’m 205 in full kit/pack)
    It’s been about a year since I added any sealant
    It’s not losing air

    Question - how much new sealant should I add?
    - none, just ride it till it leaks
    - couple of oz should do it
    - the whole 4oz bottle

    TIA

  2. #8577
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    IME the Maxxis Minion & aggressor always weeped a bit thru the sidewalls on my 5.5 but it didnt really seem to matter

    the Maxxis with the DD casings I have this year do not seem to weep maybe cuz they are 120x2 TPI ?

    they don't really lose much air so I thot about it but have not added any stans

    I would at least check before every ride which you should do anyhow
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #8578
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    4,358
    I'd blame in on those janky rims before the tire.

    Put 2ozs in there and 1 gram in your lungs and go pedal.

  4. #8579
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    1,244
    Quote Originally Posted by TBS View Post
    Tire spooging question -
    Maxxis Ardent 2.4 is weeping (Stanís) spooge around the bead
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1039CD20-BDEB-4268-AD0D-5E4CED11E4D7.jpg 
Views:	92 
Size:	583.0 KB 
ID:	423086
    Running 20-25psi (Iím 205 in full kit/pack)
    Itís been about a year since I added any sealant
    Itís not losing air

    Question - how much new sealant should I add?
    - none, just ride it till it leaks
    - couple of oz should do it
    - the whole 4oz bottle

    TIA
    Weeping through the sidewall is one thing (which Iíve never seen - maybe a non-tubeless-ready tire thing?

    When I see it seeping at the bead it means the tire is getting dry - time to put more goop in. This would make total sense if you havenít re-gooped for a year.

    Not sure why this happens (since tire is not losing air and I donít need to reseat the bead). But every time I see this and replenish the juice, it stops happening.

    I use 2 oz for my27.5 x 2.5ís. 3 oz would be fine too I think. 4oz seems overkill for all but huge tires.

  5. #8580
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    it weeped thru my new DHRII on the sidewall and that was a brand new tubeless ready tire, the tire never really lost much air and it didnt seem to matter but it was a little disconcerting I supose
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #8581
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
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    11,786

    Ask the experts

    Part of the reason of that sealant is to seal small punctures. That dried stuff maybe helped you get set up tubeless when it wasnít so dryÖ but ainít doing much with the next goat head or sharp rock that gives you a small tear.

    But 2 oz in and ride those knobs off like the guy in the idiot thread


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  7. #8582
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Park City
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    1,662
    Quote Originally Posted by Canada1 View Post
    Rock Shock monarch debonair plus shock.

    Has a thunk happening mid stroke while in soft setting. Did a can rebuild and lube and it improved, but did not eliminate. Iíll do a full rebuild this weekend. Everything looks spotless and smooth.

    Ideas?
    Anyone? I see a thread on pink bike where they received feedback this is ramping up pressure as designed in the damping. It isnít, because this is new issue on an older bike. Looking for ideas because Iíve always worked with fox before.

  8. #8583
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    Dec 2002
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    cow hampshire
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    I'd blame in on those janky rims before the tire.

    Put 2ozs in there and 1 gram in your lungs and go pedal.
    Yeah, I'd agree that it may be the wheels. I've never seen that, but I have seen sidewall bleed quite a bit.

  9. #8584
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    2,026
    Brake question. Been hitting the bike park at our hill a lot more this season and my brakes just aren't up to the task. Previously I've run older XTs but have a 2018 Nomad with sram code R and avid 180 rotors. Thinking maybe throwing some Saints and bigger rotors(previously running 203s). What's the latest and greatest stopping power out there now. I don't pay enough attention and know the collective has the knowledge. Thanks fellas.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

  10. #8585
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    Sep 2004
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    Big rotors and metal pads are the cheapest upgrades to stopping power.

    I like Shimano brakes a lot, and dislike SRAM about the same. Codes are supposedly decent though, so maybe try rotors + pads first?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #8586
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Back in Seattle
    Posts
    833
    Codes are ok enough to not replace. Go big on rotors and mtx gold pads. I have 220/200 on my sentinel and I donít love the feel but they stop fine so I am too cheap to swap them out.

    Quote Originally Posted by lifelinksplit View Post
    Brake question. Been hitting the bike park at our hill a lot more this season and my brakes just aren't up to the task. Previously I've run older XTs but have a 2018 Nomad with sram code R and avid 180 rotors. Thinking maybe throwing some Saints and bigger rotors(previously running 203s). What's the latest and greatest stopping power out there now. I don't pay enough attention and know the collective has the knowledge. Thanks fellas.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

  12. #8587
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by lifelinksplit View Post
    Brake question. Been hitting the bike park at our hill a lot more this season and my brakes just aren't up to the task. Previously I've run older XTs but have a 2018 Nomad with sram code R and avid 180 rotors. Thinking maybe throwing some Saints and bigger rotors(previously running 203s). What's the latest and greatest stopping power out there now. I don't pay enough attention and know the collective has the knowledge. Thanks fellas.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app
    Swap for bigger rotors first. If that doesn't get you the power you want, swap the code r levers for code rsc's. The calipers are the same, so you'd just need to swap in the lever bodies and bleed the system. Rsc's are much, much better than r's. More power, more modulation, and more adjustable.

  13. #8588
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    Feb 2012
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    Missoula
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    1,907
    Yeah old bike had guides, new bike had guides. why do these new ones suddenly suck so much? Oh, R vs RSC. The rsc has a different linkage that gives more leverage. Picked up some new levers, brakes are fine now. But still, how is a modern 4-pot brake so weak? My nearby trail is fast and smooth with a couple of tight switchbacks all in a row at the bottom and my fingers would hurt by the end of it. sram i guess.

  14. #8589
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    Yeah old bike had guides, new bike had guides. why do these new ones suddenly suck so much? Oh, R vs RSC. The rsc has a different linkage that gives more leverage. Picked up some new levers, brakes are fine now. But still, how is a modern 4-pot brake so weak? My nearby trail is fast and smooth with a couple of tight switchbacks all in a row at the bottom and my fingers would hurt by the end of it. sram i guess.
    SRAM Guides are somehow a 4-piston brake that are less powerful than a Shimano 2-piston.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  15. #8590
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    Yeah old bike had guides, new bike had guides. why do these new ones suddenly suck so much? Oh, R vs RSC. The rsc has a different linkage that gives more leverage. Picked up some new levers, brakes are fine now. But still, how is a modern 4-pot brake so weak? My nearby trail is fast and smooth with a couple of tight switchbacks all in a row at the bottom and my fingers would hurt by the end of it. sram i guess.
    These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):

    https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

    Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.

  16. #8591
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    871
    BrakesÖ.

    Iíve had most SRAMs the last few years, no problems really. Used SRAM rotors and pads and never did any bed in.

    Now, on my Kavenz, due to the design of the rear triangle I needed 203s, so I threw on some Galfer rotors. The 2mm ones. Still SRAM pads.
    Even did the SRAM bed in procedure.

    Both front and rear feels and works great, but both make a sound Iíve never heard before. When riding relatively fast and using the brakes there is this sound. Imagine a wheel spinning fast and then you but a piece of paper between the spokes. Frrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

    15 rides in, it has sort of disappeared/weakened on the rear, but still the same on the front.

    Itís not really that annoying, but whenever I ride by someone I feel like a dentist with a fancy bike I canít set up or maintain.

    Anybody experience something similar? Try Galfer pads?

  17. #8592
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    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    BrakesÖ.

    Iíve had most SRAMs the last few years, no problems really. Used SRAM rotors and pads and never did any bed in.

    Now, on my Kavenz, due to the design of the rear triangle I needed 203s, so I threw on some Galfer rotors. The 2mm ones. Still SRAM pads.
    Even did the SRAM bed in procedure.

    Both front and rear feels and works great, but both make a sound Iíve never heard before. When riding relatively fast and using the brakes there is this sound. Imagine a wheel spinning fast and then you but a piece of paper between the spokes. Frrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

    15 rides in, it has sort of disappeared/weakened on the rear, but still the same on the front.

    Itís not really that annoying, but whenever I ride by someone I feel like a dentist with a fancy bike I canít set up or maintain.

    Anybody experience something similar? Try Galfer pads?
    Some rotors are just noisier than others. My maguras (stock rotors and pads) make a similar noise.

  18. #8593
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    Dec 2008
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    871
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Some rotors are just noisier than others. My maguras (stock rotors and pads) make a similar noise.
    Thanks. No need to bother changing pads or trying brake-voodoo then?

    I got a pair of Trickstuff pads from a buddy, but Iíll happily save them till needed

  19. #8594
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    SW, CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):

    https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

    Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.
    Interesting article. Never heard of the Formula Cura (and Cura 4 pot), but a quick google search has them around $160-190 bucks vs $270 for RSC. Color me curious.

  20. #8595
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    Mar 2009
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    Did I F something up? I replaced a cassette (sunrace) on my DT Swiss 350 hub w/ XD driver and when I went to set the wheel down on its side the entire cassette and driver slid off. I put everything back together but the cassette+driver still slide off pretty easy exposing the hub internals. I put the wheel back on the bike and things seem to be working fine, but this does not seem righteous

  21. #8596
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    871
    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    Did I F something up? I replaced a cassette on my DT Swiss 350 hub w/ XD driver and when I went to set the wheel down on its side the entire cassette and driver slid off. I put everything back together but the cassette+driver still slide off pretty easy exposing the hub internals. I put the wheel back on the bike and things seem to be working fine, but this does not seem righteous
    Similar thing happened when I removed that insane plastic disc Canyon puts on their bikes. Worked fine

  22. #8597
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    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    Did I F something up? I replaced a cassette (sunrace) on my DT Swiss 350 hub w/ XD driver and when I went to set the wheel down on its side the entire cassette and driver slid off. I put everything back together but the cassette+driver still slide off pretty easy exposing the hub internals. I put the wheel back on the bike and things seem to be working fine, but this does not seem righteous
    It's fine. That's normal. Just make sure you don't lose the star ratchets or springs.

  23. #8598
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    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):

    https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

    Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.
    No Dominions, invalid test

    That actually made me *not* want to try Trickstuffs. They weren't even the best brake in the test and several others were very close. To me that data says the performance benefit is not worth the price.

  24. #8599
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    Dec 2005
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    2,026
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    SRAM Guides are somehow a 4-piston brake that are less powerful than a Shimano 2-piston.
    Yeah I have had no issues with any XTs I've had but told myself I'd run these till I had an issue and swap out. Sounds like I should try new rotors/pads first. I just never really liked them. I guess I liked them more than the old avid juicy 7s so theres that...

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  25. #8600
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Juicy 7 is pretty close to 20 yrs old, I would call that at least 1 generation ago as bikes components go
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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