Ask the experts

[toast2266]

Stupid Question: Back in April I got a bike upgrade (Ripmo AF) and have been riding tubeless for the first time since then. The tires (Maxxis DHF 3C Exo) have started leaking air and I have to pump them up in between rides. It's not horrible and no problems while riding but kinda a pain. There are spots on the sidewall where I can see some leakage occurring. The dirt is super dusty around here so the sealant sticks out. Is this A) normal after a bit with tubeless, b) fixable by adding a bit more sealant (I didn't originally set them up and haven't taken the tires off yet) c) time for a new tire?

(A) and probably (B). Some tires seep more than others. Adding a little sealant can help.

[ready2tumble]

Long shot: anybody holding or know a source for Scott touchup paint in Dark Bronze Gloss (for 2019 Scale 910)? None available straight from Scott: I already tried.

[Dee Hubbs]

Stupid Question: Back in April I got a bike upgrade (Ripmo AF) and have been riding tubeless for the first time since then. The tires (Maxxis DHF 3C Exo) have started leaking air and I have to pump them up in between rides. It's not horrible and no problems while riding but kinda a pain. There are spots on the sidewall where I can see some leakage occurring. The dirt is super dusty around here so the sealant sticks out. Is this A) normal after a bit with tubeless, b) fixable by adding a bit more sealant (I didn't originally set them up and haven't taken the tires off yet) c) time for a new tire?

(A) and probably (B). Some tires seep more than others. Adding a little sealant can help.

Let the air out of your tire, remove the valve core, stick a small zip tie in the vale stem, just like a dip stick, to see how much tubeless sealant you have left in your tire.
Add sealant through the valve stem, don't break the tire bead if you don't have to. After airing up the wheel shake the sealant everywhere, turn it on its side and make sure it gets a good coating where those sidewalls are weeping. Some shops are lazy and just put the sealant in the tires without shaking and rotating the tires horizontally to get a good coating on all the side walls.

[bourbonisgood]

The quick and easy checks are:
-Check the hose is connected
-Check the seat post clamp for over tightness
-Check the air pressure of the reverb
-Check the adjuster speed on the lever.
If all none of these help the lever will need a bleed.

So here’s the update. Turned out to be two separate issues. There was air in the system which resolved with a quick bleed. Also, poorly connected hose from the shop that built it. It’s working great now, Thanks! I have a feeling I’ll be posting a lot of stupid questions in this thread...

[mall walker]

on a 135mm QR wheel, is there a limit to what size cassette I can use should I decide foolishly to upgrade my drivetrain? (it's currently a 1x8 microshift) also, on an i25 rim, should I anticipate problems with say a 2.3" maxxis tire, should I foolishly decide to upgrade those as well?

[HAB]

on a 135mm QR wheel, is there a limit to what size cassette I can use should I decide foolishly to upgrade my drivetrain? (it's currently a 1x8 microshift) also, on an i25 rim, should I anticipate problems with say a 2.3" maxxis tire, should I foolishly decide to upgrade those as well?

The limitation on the drivetrain is going to be the freehub body. Most Sram 11 and 12 speed, and all Shimano 12 speed won't fit. I think Sram makes a cheaper 11-50t 12 speed cassette that uses a classic hyperglide freehub if you really want to go that route.

25mm internal rim is pretty ideal size for a 2.3 Maxxis.

[Dee Hubbs]

on a 135mm QR wheel, is there a limit to what size cassette I can use should I decide foolishly to upgrade my drivetrain? (it's currently a 1x8 microshift) also, on an i25 rim, should I anticipate problems with say a 2.3" maxxis tire, should I foolishly decide to upgrade those as well?

Your freehub will accept all cassettes: 7,8,9,10 and Shimano 11, or Sram 11 GX Cassettes.
The i25 stands for 25mm internal width. So a 2.3-2.4 is perfect width.
This explains it pretty well for you. https://www.maxxis.com/wide-trail-wt-design

[mall walker]

alright sweet, thanks. I'm gonna foolishly dump some more money into my cheap ass bike then

[HAB]

I still think you'd be better off buying a better bike, but do you.

[mall walker]

I still think you'd be better off buying a better bike, but do you.

lol oh I don't doubt that at all, I'll likely end up paying 2x what I should for a very mediocre bike with dead-end upgrade options, but sunk cost fallacy and all that. plus it's fun to tinker.
e: my local bike shop has this https://www.crankysutah.com/product/...9-346079-1.htm and I really wish I bought it instead... maybe I will see what they'll give me in trade in lol

[volklpowdermaniac]

Sounds more like a record scratching, little Velcro sounds

Is your compression and or rebound turned up a bit? I have found as I increase HSC on my 36 Grip2 it starts to make a little noise, have heard is normal.

[snowaddict91]

lol oh I don't doubt that at all, I'll likely end up paying 2x what I should for a very mediocre bike with dead-end upgrade options, but sunk cost fallacy and all that. plus it's fun to tinker.
e: my local bike shop has this https://www.crankysutah.com/product/...9-346079-1.htm and I really wish I bought it instead... maybe I will see what they'll give me in trade in lol

Just don't say I didn't tell you so. Lol

[buttahflake]

Is your compression and or rebound turned up a bit? I have found as I increase HSC on my 36 Grip2 it starts to make a little noise, have heard is normal.

It’s coming from the shock not the fork

[coach]

Hi folks, I recently picked up a used Kona Raijin titanium frame (woohoo!). When I was inspecting it I found what appeared to me to be a crack at the very bottom of the drive side seat stay.

When I asked the seller about it he said that his shop had pointed it out to him too and that it is not a crack but a ridge left from the machining process. Apparently what I’m looking at is a solid “plug” that slips into the seat stay tube and is welded on to connect the seat stay with the dropout.

Can anyone with frame building knowledge confirm this? Picture below:

Cheers,

Coach


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[plugboots]

I believe your seller is correct.

Also to the earlier poster about the leaking air from tubeless; don’t forget to shake the sealant really good and actually turn it upside down to let all the particles end up in the neck of the bottle. Mo particles, mo better.

[beaterdit]

Stupid Question: Back in April I got a bike upgrade (Ripmo AF) and have been riding tubeless for the first time since then. The tires (Maxxis DHF 3C Exo) have started leaking air and I have to pump them up in between rides. It's not horrible and no problems while riding but kinda a pain. There are spots on the sidewall where I can see some leakage occurring. The dirt is super dusty around here so the sealant sticks out. Is this A) normal after a bit with tubeless, b) fixable by adding a bit more sealant (I didn't originally set them up and haven't taken the tires off yet) c) time for a new tire?

What Toast said and also: sealant dries up over time also, so more needs to be added periodically. Good to clean out the boogers now and then too. Kinda depends how much you ride and how fast you burn up tires. Maxxis "TR" line weeps less out of the box, I get those. Also, it's still normal to lose a little air between rides. Still worth it.

Long shot: anybody holding or know a source for Scott touchup paint in Dark Bronze Gloss (for 2019 Scale 910)? None available straight from Scott: I already tried.

If you're lucky you can find nail polish in that color. Look in the big pharmacy chains like walgreens or Rite Aid for the best selection. If not you can get the pantone code from Scott and bring it to an auto body shop where they can mix some for you. This route would likely be expensive.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Anyone know how to edit a strava activity to remove elevation gain? I like to run strava during bike park days to get data on downhill segments on stuff I race enduro on, but can't remember to stop and start the recording 10 times a day.

I had a strava activity get "flagged" once because it detected that I got a shuttle ride and it allowed me to delete the uphill part where I was in a van. (I was pedaling up to Larson in Oakridge and gladly hopped in a van about halfway up).

[beaterdit]

The way I've done it before was to split the activity into a separate activity for each lap and then snip the lift rides off. PIA but I've been in the same boat and done it plenty.

[smmokan]

The way I've done it before was to split the activity into a separate activity for each lap and then snip the lift rides off. PIA but I've been in the same boat and done it plenty.

On the same note, I wish Strava would show "Elevation Descended" as well. I know I can look at the profile and add it all up myself, but it would be a nice addition to the ride stats.

[toast2266]

On the same note, I wish Strava would show "Elevation Descended" as well. I know I can look at the profile and add it all up myself, but it would be a nice addition to the ride stats.

If you load your ride into trailforks, it'll give you that (although your vert won't really be comparable to strava since trailforks calculates it differently).

[grinch]

Yes, It allows them to use an industry standard (I mean industrial bearing standard, not a fawking bike standard) off the shelf bearing manufactured to high standards and tolerances based off of the load vs bearing size to increase wear and life.
Where as the RaceFace 30mm axle crammed into a 41mm hole has to use a specially spec'd and limited run production bearing that uses undersized balls for the load that it is expected to carry.
When the 30mm axle was designed, the engineers/product managers never imagined that people would try to jam a 30mm axle into a 41mm bottom bracket shell, and it wasn't until Race Face (who bough Easton (who had the carbon fiber crank technology) who was then bough by Fox) decided to go to 30mm axles across their whole line (to reduce SKU's). They engineered and made the 30mm to 41mm BB readily available, and solved the BB shell width issue by making the cinch system connection on both arms allowing for swiping out different axle lengths.

Any experience with hope bb's for 30mm cinch? I replaced the rf bb on a threaded bb with a hope bb and it lasted forever and was way smoother than the rf. Potential new ride is a pf bb shell.Im wondering if i cram in a pf hope bb for my sixc's if the increased quality of the hope bb bearings will survive in a pf/cinch 30mm combo

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[El Chupacabra]

Hey Shimano experts: if upgrading a 1x10 drivetrain and keeping the HG freehub wheels, would you pick:

A) SLX 1x11, with 11-46 cassette -- all SLX parts in the M7000 series
B) Deore 1x11, with 11-51 cassette -- all Deore parts in the M5100 series

A) SLX: advantages (?) -- supposedly higher-end than Deore, probably lighter weight. In reality... ?
B) Deore: advantages -- less expensive than SLX, cassette goes to 51, cassette tooth jumps are better spaced than SLX. (Deore: 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51. SLX: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-37-46.

Or-- can you mix-and-match, and use 11-speed SLX shifter and rear derailleur with the 11-51 Deore cassette? Goat link needed?

[XXX-er]

What Toast said and also: sealant dries up over time also, so more needs to be added periodically. Good to clean out the boogers now and then too. Kinda depends how much you ride and how fast you burn up tires. Maxxis "TR" line weeps less out of the box, I get those. Also, it's still normal to lose a little air between rides. Still worth it.



If you're lucky you can find nail polish in that color. Look in the big pharmacy chains like walgreens or Rite Aid for the best selection. If not you can get the pantone code from Scott and bring it to an auto body shop where they can mix some for you. This route would likely be expensive.

IME the valve stems with the removable core are great cuz you can just unscrew the core and add fluid without disturbing the tire on the rim

IME touching up paint scratches on the frame, close is good enough and I'm gona try that nailpolish idea , thanx !

[jm2e]

Hey Shimano experts: if upgrading a 1x10 drivetrain and keeping the HG freehub wheels, would you pick:

A) SLX 1x11, with 11-46 cassette -- all SLX parts in the M7000 series
B) Deore 1x11, with 11-51 cassette -- all Deore parts in the M5100 series

A) SLX: advantages (?) -- supposedly higher-end than Deore, probably lighter weight. In reality... ?
B) Deore: advantages -- less expensive than SLX, cassette goes to 51, cassette tooth jumps are better spaced than SLX. (Deore: 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51. SLX: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-37-46.

Or-- can you mix-and-match, and use 11-speed SLX shifter and rear derailleur with the 11-51 Deore cassette? Goat link needed?

Assuming you stick with that freehub, and we don’t thread drift into 12sp options, I’d say for sure go with that Deore cassette. That said, you can mix-match other Shimano 11sp shifters & derailleurs. RD needs to be long cage. Nice shifter more valuable than nice derailleur.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[grskier]

Hey Shimano experts: if upgrading a 1x10 drivetrain and keeping the HG freehub wheels, would you pick:

A) SLX 1x11, with 11-46 cassette -- all SLX parts in the M7000 series
B) Deore 1x11, with 11-51 cassette -- all Deore parts in the M5100 series

A) SLX: advantages (?) -- supposedly higher-end than Deore, probably lighter weight. In reality... ?
B) Deore: advantages -- less expensive than SLX, cassette goes to 51, cassette tooth jumps are better spaced than SLX. (Deore: 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51. SLX: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-37-46.

Or-- can you mix-and-match, and use 11-speed SLX shifter and rear derailleur with the 11-51 Deore cassette? Goat link needed?

Do you need all that range?
I have a 9-46 tooth 11 speed cassette, I almost never use the 9 tooth. It's good for going 35mph down the road and that's about it. Of course, that's on the other end of the range.