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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #12026
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    8,814
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    A float x will do better than a dps, especially on longer descents. But if you're gonna spend money on a rear shock, I wouldn't bother with a performance level shock. Performance elite or factory offer actual functional improvements that, imo, are worth it.
    This would be a take off from a new Smuggler, so it being within 100 bucks of a service of my current shock makes it attractive. If I have to spring for retail for an elite/factory I probably wouldnít make the upgrade.

  2. #12027
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,347
    Are these Raceface Next cranks a good deal at $172? Looking to drop some weight https://www.jensonusa.com/Race-Face-...8aAncHEALw_wcB

    There is a review about the pedal threads coming off the carbon, I imagine that's a one off issue or is it a real problem to worry about?

  3. #12028
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    1,865
    Quote Originally Posted by Benneke10 View Post
    Are these Raceface Next cranks a good deal at $172? Looking to drop some weight https://www.jensonusa.com/Race-Face-...8aAncHEALw_wcB

    There is a review about the pedal threads coming off the carbon, I imagine that's a one off issue or is it a real problem to worry about?
    No, run away from those as fast as you can. Real issue, everyone I know who's owned them has had it happen.

  4. #12029
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Alamos, NM
    Posts
    2,345
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    No, run away from those as fast as you can. Real issue, everyone I know who's owned them has had it happen.
    Yup, you really want these:
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...?highlight=ERA
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  5. #12030
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,469
    Quote Originally Posted by Benneke10 View Post
    Are these Raceface Next cranks a good deal at $172? Looking to drop some weight https://www.jensonusa.com/Race-Face-...8aAncHEALw_wcB

    There is a review about the pedal threads coming off the carbon, I imagine that's a one off issue or is it a real problem to worry about?
    I have those. Pedal insert came loose, RF warrantied them, they've been fine since. So I've gotten ~5 years out of 2 sets of them. Plenty of hard landings and rock strikes.

    There are certainly better, more durable cranks. But that's pretty cheap.

  6. #12031
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    671
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    This would be a take off from a new Smuggler, so it being within 100 bucks of a service of my current shock makes it attractive. If I have to spring for retail for an elite/factory I probably wouldnít make the upgrade.
    You can get the LSC knob kit for the Float X about $25. Thatís the only difference between the Performance and Performance Elite. Part number 808-17-470-KIT.

  7. #12032
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,053
    Quote Originally Posted by Benneke10 View Post
    Are these Raceface Next cranks a good deal at $172? Looking to drop some weight https://www.jensonusa.com/Race-Face-...8aAncHEALw_wcB

    There is a review about the pedal threads coming off the carbon, I imagine that's a one off issue or is it a real problem to worry about?
    Besides, do you really want 175’s?
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  8. #12033
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    8,814
    Quote Originally Posted by g_man80 View Post
    You can get the LSC knob kit for the Float X about $25. Thatís the only difference between the Performance and Performance Elite. Part number 808-17-470-KIT.
    Oooh, maybe Iím back in. Thanks.

  9. #12034
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    12,338
    New Mezzer next year?

    https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...32139567693869

    They are pretty marked down right now
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  10. #12035
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    1,461
    My granny gear is skipping all over the place even under light torque, the rest of the gears work fine. I have already cleaned and lubed the drive train. Is there anything else that I, as a bike mechanically inept person, can try before taking it into the LBS?

  11. #12036
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    1,445
    If it's an Eagle drivetrain, the 2 things I always check first are the rear der mounting bolt, then b tension. Both loosen up regularly IME.

  12. #12037
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    12,338
    Is it skipping across the teeth or jumping down to the next gear? If the latter then a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the barrel could set it straight.

    Any chance the bike was laid down on the derailleur side and the hanger got a little tweaked?
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  13. #12038
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    102
    Any time my cassette starts skipping I pull out the derailleur alignment gauge and 95% of the time its tweaked. Worthy investment.

  14. #12039
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,223
    yeah ^^ if you don't have the tool get down behind 4 ft back of the der and site down the drive train alot of the time i can tweak the der back and not even have to adj the cable
    Last edited by XXX-er; 09-28-2023 at 03:18 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #12040
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    1,461
    Thanks all, I'll check it out when I get home.

  16. #12041
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    452
    Going back to mtb shoes, Iím still searching for shoes that actually fit my flipper shaped feet properly. Wide forefoot(especially at fifth met head) but low volume, low instep, and narrow heel. Anything that doesnít crush my 5th met head is always insecure around the rest of the foot. I almost always wind up putting shims under my footbeds to reduce the vertical volume, and a lot of shoes simply donít work for me at all because of too much vertical volume and/or a sloppy heel fit.

    Flat or clipless, Iím interested in any recommendations that might fit me well. Hike-a-bike capabilities are mandatory.

  17. #12042
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,223
    Kind of the same foot but with a high instep, I would check out Specialized

    I've had 3 pair and they all worked for me
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #12043
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    275
    Remind me what tweaks I should make to my suspension for bike park flow trails? Headed to trestle this weekend and like my current setup but mostly ride chunky tech where I am. Been a while since Iíve touched it. Have a dhx2 coil and lyrik ultimate fork.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  19. #12044
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    527
    More LSC.

  20. #12045
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,919
    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    Going back to mtb shoes, I’m still searching for shoes that actually fit my flipper shaped feet properly. Wide forefoot(especially at fifth met head) but low volume, low instep, and narrow heel. Anything that doesn’t crush my 5th met head is always insecure around the rest of the foot. I almost always wind up putting shims under my footbeds to reduce the vertical volume, and a lot of shoes simply don’t work for me at all because of too much vertical volume and/or a sloppy heel fit.

    Flat or clipless, I’m interested in any recommendations that might fit me well. Hike-a-bike capabilities are mandatory.
    I have flipper feet as well. Not sure how long your toes are but my 4th and 5th toes always get cut off by shoes tapering in from the met heads too quickly. I haven't found any flat shoes including Ride Concepts, 5.10, Specialized that are nearly wide enough. My 6th toe always feels crushed and my little toes get crunched up too.

    However, you can still find FiveTen Impact VXI on ebay for under $100 and these are the best shoes for flipper feet I've ever found, plus they're just amazing shoes. For SPD, the Bontrager Rally shoe is the only one I've found that fits my mets.

  21. #12046
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    2,990
    Lake. How it still flies under the radar is a mystery to me, as it's pretty much the only brand that makes cycling shoes that are shaped like people's feet. The regular ones are like 5mm wider across the forefoot, and the wide ones are made for full on duck feet.

    Ofc they are for riding, not walking... If you're doing a ton of HAB, maybe use hiking shoes?

    Maybe this new model would work though.Name:  MX201-GRY-SLVR-FRNT_900x.jpeg
Views: 213
Size:  33.3 KB
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  22. #12047
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    Lake. How it still flies under the radar is a mystery to me, as it's pretty much the only brand that makes cycling shoes that are shaped like people's feet. The regular ones are like 5mm wider across the forefoot, and the wide ones are made for full on duck feet.

    Ofc they are for riding, not walking... If you're doing a ton of HAB, maybe use hiking shoes?

    Maybe this new model would work though.Name:  MX201-GRY-SLVR-FRNT_900x.jpeg
Views: 213
Size:  33.3 KB
    I tried the MX 242 and they were way too high volume vertically, and the heel was super loose. They were so sloppy I think Iíd actually prefer a smashed forefoot!

  23. #12048
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    1,820
    Go to a shop and try on specialized. If they work, go order them off of the web for their current sales.

    On a related note, I had three pairs of shimano shoes spread through myself and kids and they all had the cleat plate delam from the sole. They all had alot of life left in them but for that.

  24. #12049
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    2,990
    Wild. Were you using good insoles? You need solid support for cycling, and the good ones take up a bunch of space. Did you try molding the heel?

    I have 2 pairs of MX 238 and a pair of CX238 and they are perfect for my super low volume, narrow heel, wideish forefoot. I've walked a bunch in the ones I use for MTB, and while a full carbon sole isn't great for it, they do as well as good be hoped for. Plus they look pretty good after a LOT of abuse. I expect to get at least 5 years out of them, and way more from the road and gravel pairs.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  25. #12050
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    452
    Yep and that was with semi-custom insoles, and multiple attempts at molding the heel. The 242s were particularly cavernous compared to most shoes Iíve tried, like not even close.

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