Ask the experts

[toast2266]

Why do people with used Trust forks still think they are worth $800-1000?

You can literally find any other fork used for less.

The lack of serviceability is now a feature. They're "vintage."

[summit]

Noticing it is going to be very personal. Some reasons have been noted, another is that if you tend to have the chain on a smaller cog for big hits that softens the effect compared to a big cog that moves more chain per degree (and effectively increases the inertial value of your legs/crank/pedals).

Shifting up can also be a coping mechanism, but obviously only to the degree that you're comfortable.

Interesting point. When in a real downhill section with speed I tend to shift to 12th or close to it so I can throw in a power stroke unless I have an upcoming slow tech/uphill.

But my point remains on the why would someone get a Hydra and O chain instead of just keeping a 54t (or 36t) since they cancel each other out. Or is the theory the O Chain is more predictable?

[Andeh]

Interesting point. When in a real downhill section with speed I tend to shift to 12th or close to it so I can throw in a power stroke unless I have an upcoming slow tech/uphill.

But my point remains on the why would someone get a Hydra and O chain instead of just keeping a 54t (or 36t) since they cancel each other out. Or is the theory the O Chain is more predictable?

Pretty much the predictable. I've ridden my buddy's SB165 (also tons of pedal kick) which has DT240s and 54t ratchet on some hellaciously brake bumped trails in Santa Cruz, and some of the hits, the kick is super harsh. Other hits of similar size it was manageable. It was just a total dice roll. The kick into the hub engagement was such a loud clack I stopped a couple times because I thought something had broken. The Hydra on my bike is pretty much instant engagement, so it feels the same on every hit and I just have to tune the rear suspension around brake bumps. I'm hoping with O-Chain I can maybe run a bit more compression (for better pumping support) while still keeping the rear supple (or better) over quick square bumps.

[summit]

Pretty much the predictable. I've ridden my buddy's SB165 (also tons of pedal kick) which has DT240s and 54t ratchet on some hellaciously brake bumped trails in Santa Cruz, and some of the hits, the kick is super harsh. Other hits of similar size it was manageable. It was just a total dice roll. The kick into the hub engagement was such a loud clack I stopped a couple times because I thought something had broken. The Hydra on my bike is pretty much instant engagement, so it feels the same on every hit and I just have to tune the rear suspension around brake bumps. I'm hoping with O-Chain I can maybe run a bit more compression (for better pumping support) while still keeping the rear supple (or better) over quick square bumps.

Interesting. Report back!

[smmokan]

Why do people with used Trust forks still think they are worth $800-1000?

You can literally find any other fork used for less.

Because they were stupid enough to pay $1500-1800 for one to begin with.

[east or bust]

Have a bunch of spots where my ride wrap (installed on new bike 1yr ago) is starting to peel at the edges.

Is it possible to touch these areas up or do you need to replace the entire piece?


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[XXX-er]

Don't really know but I would try cleaning that area really well and seeing if it would stick down with some heat ?

try emailing ride wrap for ideas

[bagtagley]

Have a bunch of spots where my ride wrap (installed on new bike 1yr ago) is starting to peel at the edges.

Is it possible to touch these areas up or do you need to replace the entire piece?


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You could try cleaning the exposed surface with soapy water and see if it’ll adhere, though once it gets dirty it’s usually a lost cause. Trim the peeled edges with a really sharp xacto knife being careful not to cut the paint. Radius any sharp corners to help prevent more peeling.

[Tailwind]

I posted about Flo Levers a few tabs back. After going back and forth on just buying a new Shimano Lever, I picked up a set of the Flo's. I got them installed yesterday and got out for a quick ride. Install would have been easy... but the lever spring from the older lever ejected and got lost in my garage for about 20 minutes.

Overall, "they feel nice". The shape is a little different, slightly longer and a little less curved. I really appreciated this immediately but had to shift all of my controls inboard about 5-10mm. I think this extra leverage makes the brakes feel a little stronger. Mechanically they feel a little more solid, lever adjust is nicer. The 'unbreakable' pivot feature seems sweet.

All of that being said, if you have a lever that needs to be replaced and want to spend a few $$$ it's a nice upgrade. Touch points make a big difference on a bike and this is a little improvement. That being said... I wouldn't buy a set to replace perfectly good levers. I made peace with the purchase after I successfully glued the sole back onto a set of my bike shoes and saved a few dollars there.

[El Chupacabra]

Did my first ever ride with a tire insert - a Nukeproof ARD, installed in the rear of a hardtail. Felt kind of wooden - normal? Used a little lower pressure than I would have without the insert, but wondering if I should drop it more.

Also have a pretty good tire wobble going on, and am wondering if the insert isn't seated quite right inside the casing. Tire bead is seated evenly all around on the wheel.

Bump. Lowered PSI some more, am liking the ride quality, haven't torn open a sidewall yet...

Still have casing wobble though. I let all the air out of the tire, tried manipulating the insert around a little inside the tire, and reinflated. Still wobbly. Any of you experts have any ideas?

[toast2266]

Bump. Lowered PSI some more, am liking the ride quality, haven't torn open a sidewall yet...

Still have casing wobble though. I let all the air out of the tire, tried manipulating the insert around a little inside the tire, and reinflated. Still wobbly. Any of you experts have any ideas?

I've never seen an insert cause casing wobble. If the bead is seated evenly all the way around and the tire's still wobbling, it probably has a torn / defective casing. I guess you could try re-installing without the insert to confirm that it's not caused by the insert.

[Andeh]

Bump. Lowered PSI some more, am liking the ride quality, haven't torn open a sidewall yet...

Still have casing wobble though. I let all the air out of the tire, tried manipulating the insert around a little inside the tire, and reinflated. Still wobbly. Any of you experts have any ideas?

Myself and others have had Tannus inserts permanently warp casings, so it is possible for inserts to do that. I have no issues with Cushcore and Tubolight inserts though, even on wimpy EXO+ casings.

For a sanity check your only real bet is to remove the insert and air it up to see if the wobble persists. If it goes away, maybe try reinstalling with the insert / tire wet with sealant so it can slip around a bit better.

[MegaStoke]

Myself and others have had Tannus inserts permanently warp casings, so it is possible for inserts to do that. I have no issues with Cushcore and Tubolight inserts though, even on wimpy EXO+ casings.

For a sanity check your only real bet is to remove the insert and air it up to see if the wobble persists. If it goes away, maybe try reinstalling with the insert / tire wet with sealant so it can slip around a bit better.

Weird, how does a Tannus insert warp a casing? They’re not exactly a tight fit.

[robnow]

Weird, how does a Tannus insert warp a casing? They’re not exactly a tight fit.

Having used Tannus, I can't see this either.

[joetron]

Weird, how does a Tannus insert warp a casing? They’re not exactly a tight fit.

Not sure, but I had it happen to me last summer.
Between that and the ride quality, I will not be revisiting that insert.


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[MegaStoke]

Not sure, but I had it happen to me last summer.
Between that and the ride quality, I will not be revisiting that insert.


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Huh. I love the way mine ride, to the point that I won’t even consider not running them on a bike that will be ridden hard.

[grskier]

I've had a few tires that had a wobble upon installation... is it just the tire? was it mounted prior? Did a bead or sidewall get wrecked on installation?

[El Chupacabra]

Tire didn't have a wobble when it was mounted previously - it's a partially worn DHF that was on the front wheel, and I moved it to the rear wheel and added the insert. It is seated properly on the rim (mold line near the rim is even all the way around). It's possible I damaged the casing on installation, as I had to use tire levers to get the last little bit onto the rim with the insert inside. There's no bulging on the sidewall. I didn't think I was prying on the bead all that hard - haven't had this issue before from mounting tires.

The insert was coiled up just before I installed it, and I didn't make any effort to get it to lay out flat first (like leaving it in the sun). So it could well have had a warp to it. I just didn't think it would affect the tire at all, since it's just a piece of dense foam.

[MegaStoke]

When possible, it’s best practice to stretch a new tire insert onto a rim and let it sit for at least a few hours before doing an install. I’ve found this more true with Tannus than others FWIW.

[Iowagriz]

Final tweaks to my Cutthroat. Thanks to the advice from this group in late March, I've gotten the Rival carbon wheels to work. Dropped close to 2.5lbs as well. However, the tolerance between the spokes and the caliper is very tight .

On the stock front wheel, the tolerance was approx 3.5mm (as measured with allen wrenches). The new wheels have it closer to 2mm. I didn't have any problems riding the stock wheel fully loaded, but this now seems really tight.

What distance is acceptable? Do spikes flew outward that could create contact? I could bump the rotor from the 160 to a 185(?) and that should get me back to 3.5 or more. This seems like the best solution.

Pic attached trying to show the 2mm closeness.

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[Dantheman]

Zero Friction Cycling, holy shit, those guys need an editor.

[teledad]

Final tweaks to my Cutthroat. Thanks to the advice from this group in late March, I've gotten the Rival carbon wheels to work. Dropped close to 2.5lbs as well. However, the tolerance between the spokes and the caliper is very tight.

I'd probably ride that as is - I run tires with 2-3mm of clearance and you're much more likely to get interference at the rim than near the hub. Though with radial spokes you have a little less lateral support than a x2 or x3 wheel. Try riding it and see if you have an issue - you'll hear it if the spokes are hitting the caliper.

[HAB]

Final tweaks to my Cutthroat. Thanks to the advice from this group in late March, I've gotten the Rival carbon wheels to work. Dropped close to 2.5lbs as well. However, the tolerance between the spokes and the caliper is very tight .

On the stock front wheel, the tolerance was approx 3.5mm (as measured with allen wrenches). The new wheels have it closer to 2mm. I didn't have any problems riding the stock wheel fully loaded, but this now seems really tight.

What distance is acceptable? Do spikes flew outward that could create contact? I could bump the rotor from the 160 to a 185(?) and that should get me back to 3.5 or more. This seems like the best solution.

Pic attached trying to show the 2mm closeness.

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That'll be fine, don't worry about it. You're not going to get that much lateral deflection that close to the hub.

[Iowagriz]

Good points about spoke deflection near the hub vs. out further.

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[J. Barron DeJong]

Zero Friction Cycling, holy shit, those guys need an editor.

Yeah they do. Tons of great work/information, but writing could be like 1/10th as long.