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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4526
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Shimano 12 speed chains worn out with less than .75% wear?

    My chain checker only measures .75 or 1 and my chain is slow to downshift to smaller cogs. Cassette good, brand new cable and housing, clutch serviced, etc.
    Chain should be fine.
    Check B tension and then adjust cable barrel 1-2 clicks clockwise.
    Then buy Shimano TL-CN42.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  2. #4527
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Chain should be fine.
    Check B tension and then adjust cable barrel 1-2 clicks clockwise.
    Then buy Shimano TL-CN42.
    I actually put locktite on the B screw last year so it never moves now.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  3. #4528
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    What sort of lube should I use on the shock mount bushings? Fucker is creaking like a grandpa's knee. Bonus points if I can get it at the regular hardware store.

  4. #4529
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Shimano 12 speed chains worn out with less than .75% wear?

    My chain checker only measures .75 or 1 and my chain is slow to downshift to smaller cogs. Cassette good, brand new cable and housing, clutch serviced, etc.
    Yes, recommended to replace 11 and 12 speed chains at .5%. Doesn't mean that is the issue of your problem though and I doubt you'd notice shifting issues at less than .75% wear.

    I have found that contrary to many comments on chain rings wearing out on 12 speeds when I do this they last a very long time. The 12 speed cassettes are very expensive, I'll go with changing my chain at .5% even if it "might be fine".

  5. #4530
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    What sort of lube should I use on the shock mount bushings? Fucker is creaking like a grandpa's knee. Bonus points if I can get it at the regular hardware store.
    I would use thick grease
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #4531
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    What sort of lube should I use on the shock mount bushings? Fucker is creaking like a grandpa's knee. Bonus points if I can get it at the regular hardware store.
    I doubt that it really makes much difference here, but if you have a choice a Calcium Sulfonate grease is more resistant to washout than more common lithium grease. Shimano ‘Special Grease’ and Motorex bike grease (just rebranded Motorex industrial grease) are Calcium Sulfonate. Tractor Supply has ‘Travellers Marine and Off-Road Grease’ which is a Calcium Sulfonate grease.

    You’re probably only going to find NLGI 2 grease at the hardware store, which is the ‘standard’ thickness. Lower number is thinner, higher is thicker.

    ETA: Calcium Sulfonate grease should be suitable pretty much anywhere on a bike except plastic. For plastic you should use a Silicone grease to avoid degrading it. Shimano SP41 grease for cables/housing is Silicone based with Teflon. Superlube also makes a Silicone grease with Teflon, but it’s not their standard grease, has to specifically say Silicone.

    (sorry, went down a rabbit hole learning about grease a few weeks back)

  7. #4532
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    Ok so I checked the chain before riding with a ruler. Probably within 1/64th.

    Rode 20 miles today and shifting was hit or miss. Lots of miss. A few times the main paddle on the shifter would get stuck in when shifting to bigger rings. Click 2 or 3 times on the other paddle to go down to smaller cogs and nothing happens. Chain stayed in the same gear.

    Has the shifter randomly gone bad or can a bad rear derailleur make the shifter itself act weird?

  8. #4533
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    sounds like the shifter is fucked to me
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #4534
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    sounds like the shifter is fucked to me
    Possibly just fucked/dirty? (raced in the mud a couple weeks ago)

    Also maybe rear mech is slow from pivot points getting dirty? Guess I'll clean everything and if that doesn't work get a new shifter.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listc...hreadid=199397

  10. #4535
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    all the der does is move the chain over the cogs, all the shifter does is hold the cable in the right place so the der can do its thing, a bent der hanger can mess up exact shifting but thats no what this sounds like ... it sounds like a shifter probelm
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #4536
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Possibly just fucked/dirty? (raced in the mud a couple weeks ago)

    Also maybe rear mech is slow from pivot points getting dirty? Guess I'll clean everything and if that doesn't work get a new shifter.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listc...hreadid=199397
    This shift lever not returning properly was (is?) a fairly common issue with Shimano road shifters. Spraying with solvent to clear out the hardened grease and then re-lubing usually worked. I personally used Slick Honey grease on all the places I could reach, and then dripped Tri-Flow into the spots I couldnít.

  12. #4537
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    Hmmmm, comp cyclist reviews for the XT shifter point to the fact that there have been MANY failures with these shifters. Springs breaking. It was the very end of my ride 100yds from the truck that the main shift lever stopped returning. Good timing I guess? I'll open it up, but probably just gonna order a new one ASAP and hope it arrives soon.

  13. #4538
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    Was just thinking that you were in the mud in Missouri, no?

    New cables and housing before you take apart the shifter.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  14. #4539
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iowagriz View Post
    Was just thinking that you were in the mud in Missouri, no?

    New cables and housing before you take apart the shifter.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    I replaced the cable and housing yesterday as well as taking apart and lubing the mech clutch.

    New shifter ordered. I'll mess with the old one just in case, but new will go on as soon as it arrives.

  15. #4540
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    shifter fucked means its the shifter not shifting

    before replacing i would lube all pivots on der/ lube cable/ lube the shifter

    i usually don't lube shifters cuz lube can attract dirt but it sounds already fucked
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #4541
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    shifter fucked means its the shifter not shifting

    before replacing i would lube all pivots on der/ lube cable/ lube the shifter

    i usually don't lube shifters cuz lube can attract dirt but it sounds already fucked
    I'd also degrease the shifter before re-lubing. Shimano has a history of using nasty grease that gums up shifters and needs to be douched out / re-lubed (although that was mostly in lower end stuff).

  17. #4542
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    Well it looks like the wife's Guide R's are having the piston swelling/sticky lever issue. Any reason I shouldn't just order a new set of Shimanos?

  18. #4543
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Well it looks like the wife's Guide R's are having the piston swelling/sticky lever issue. Any reason I shouldn't just order a new set of Shimanos?
    My buddy (while we were in Hurricane on a riding trip) had *both* of his replaced under warranty by OTE Sports. I'd check with your LBS about getting them warrantied... unless you really want some Shimanos.

  19. #4544
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    My buddy (while we were in Hurricane on a riding trip) had *both* of his replaced under warranty by OTE Sports. I'd check with your LBS about getting them warrantied... unless you really want some Shimanos.
    Probably worth checking into since she isn't picky. Somewhat concerned about supply chain and if we can get a set but I suppose it's worth a shot. Pretty sure they are out of warranty period and we didn't buy the bike locally though, unfortunately.

  20. #4545
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Probably worth checking into since she isn't picky. Somewhat concerned about supply chain and if we can get a set but I suppose it's worth a shot.
    I was quite surprised - OTE really went above and beyond, IMO. They apparently had levers on-hand because they completed the replacement in 24 hours, and even gave my buddy a deal on a demo bike while they were doing it...

  21. #4546
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    We keep rebuild kits in stock, it's pretty straightforward to replace the MC piston and seals and that fixes it, plus you get a fresh bleed. However that does cost money. We charge $60 total per brake but I wouldn't be surprised for it to be more elsewhere.

  22. #4547
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    We keep rebuild kits in stock, it's pretty straightforward to replace the MC piston and seals and that fixes it, plus you get a fresh bleed. However that does cost money. We charge $60 total per brake but I wouldn't be surprised for it to be more elsewhere.
    Yeah - OTE charged him $40 to bleed both brakes. That was the only $$ he had to pay for the warranty work...

    Again - I was impressed by OTE's willingness to do this during their busy season so quickly for him. Kudos to that shop.

  23. #4548
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    My LBS has basically told me to pound sand for the sticky sram issue. Another shop also told my buddy they wonít repair them and instead just ordered a new set ( at full price).

    So I guess it depends where you go but itís nice that there are still some shops doing this!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  24. #4549
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  25. #4550
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    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    What pivot bearing grease does everyone prefer?
    The red stuff.


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