Ask the experts

**NW_SKIER** · 10-09-2024, 04:14 PM

I agree with what others have said. Start by checking the hub bearings. I9 hubs are great at blowing the outside driver bearing. I keep spares with me at all times for a parking lot service if needed.

**volklpowdermaniac** · 10-09-2024, 11:09 PM

PITA to quote yall but thank you thank you!, i'll be got a service kit on order and will break it down

**frorider** · 10-10-2024, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by NW_SKIER

I agree with what others have said. Start by checking the hub bearings. I9 hubs are great at blowing the outside driver bearing. I keep spares with me at all times for a parking lot service if needed.

With this ^ as their reputation for many years now, I don’t know why anyone buys I9 hubs when light & reliable options exist. Chris King, Hadley, DT, Project 321–overs the years I’ve never travelled with spare parts for any of these. Even the crazy cheap Hopes I’d order direct from UK were reliable enough.

**Andeh** · 10-10-2024, 09:23 AM

Originally Posted by frorider

With this ^ as their reputation for many years now, I don’t know why anyone buys I9 hubs when light & reliable options exist. Chris King, Hadley, DT, Project 321–overs the years I’ve never travelled with spare parts for any of these. Even the crazy cheap Hopes I’d order direct from UK were reliable enough.

This. Man, I wanted to support i9 since I like the story of onshoring production of bike parts, but after 2 of their hubs burning through a set of bearings every season, I'm back on the "buy and forget about them" train with DT.

**XtrPickels** · 10-10-2024, 09:59 AM

I have currently 3 sets of i9 wheels and never an issue. I pull seals like once a year and clean / regrease. 6 total sets over the years.

Maybe it's the drier Colorado climate?

**volklpowdermaniac** · 10-10-2024, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by XtrPickels

I have currently 3 sets of i9 wheels and never an issue. I pull seals like once a year and clean / regrease. 6 total sets over the years.

Maybe it's the drier Colorado climate?

yeah i'm on hub/wheelset number 5, 2 torch, 2 hydra, 1 1/1 and i've never had issues other than this small one now. spin forever, clean and grease every couple of years, but i do see a lot of people complaining which is incongruent in my head, but my n=1, so who the f knows

**mildbill.** · 10-10-2024, 12:38 PM

Ask the experts: Would a bike company present misleading weight numbers? How shocked should I be!!??!

Situation: 11 year old is starting in the NICA world this year. I'm engaged in full analysis paralysis mode on what bike, but was perusing the Trek website thanks to the 25% NICA discount...

Trek is offering 2 aluminum hardtails with virtually identical specs, listing one at 33lbs in medium, one at 28lbs in medium.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...lorCode=orange vs. https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...black_greydark

The Marlin is more interesting to me because of the size-specific wheels (she is moving up from a 24") and much better standover, in fact the procaliber isn't even in the running due to sizing but the weight discrepancy had me scratching my head.

Fork: Both Judy solo silvers, lighter bike is boost and 120mm vs 100mm (Edit: I now see that they specify a tapered steerer on the lighter bike - safe to assume that 1 1/8" straight steerer on an entry level bike is a heavy steel steerer tube?)
Rims: Same
Hubs: Heavier has formulas, lighter has shimano
Groupset: Heavier has SX, Lighter has Deore
Dropper: Heavier has tranzx, lighter has Bontrager (which is probably a tranzx)
Tires: Heavier has ardent exos, lighter has some bontrager nonsense
BB: Heavier has truvative powerspline, lighter has shimano cups
Both measured with tubeless set up.

And so on.

So my question is - where are they getting 5lbs heavier on the other aluminum framed (both are "Alpha Platinum") bike?

I could see a lb or 2 on the crank / bb / cassette...zero on the fork, negligible on the dropper / wheels / tires...3lb difference on the frame seems crazy...

**frorider** · 10-10-2024, 01:33 PM

Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac

yeah i'm on hub/wheelset number 5, 2 torch, 2 hydra, 1 1/1 and i've never had issues other than this small one now. spin forever, clean and grease every couple of years, but i do see a lot of people complaining which is incongruent in my head, but my n=1, so who the f knows

While mechanics or industry folks can see enough data to conclude that Yup that product is failure prone, that doesn’t mean everyone will experience failure. Some products (certain products from e13, I9, etc) do fail enough to get such a reputation for statistical failure that their own press releases or CS communications acknowledge the statistical failures and promise that ‘we’ve fixed it this year’.

If you own a shop, or have beers with a shop owner, you’ll see the challenge — carry a product (because THIS year it’s been fixed) like I9 hubs that have a history of failure but your customers want it, or try to talk them into a more reliable brand that is just as light and also comes in dentist colors?

It’s tough for retailers. The Fox Float X2 was plagued with issues for a couple of years, despite the assurances that ‘we’ve fixed it’. I have a 2024 X2 that’s been rock solid, but I only got it after I became convinced they HAD fixed the issues. Amusingly enough, during that long stretch where Fox was bombarded with X2 failures & basically overwhelmed, there still were people posting ‘what issue? Mine’s fine’.

**jono** · 10-10-2024, 01:38 PM

I'm trying to think of something that would be more prone to statistic-driven failures than bearings and all I can come up with is: cheaper bearings.

I get why I9 might try to save $6, but if I'm a consumer replacing them and I already know the last ones didn't...

**Boissal** · 10-10-2024, 01:56 PM

Add me to the statistical pile supporting more than frequent I9 bearing failures. Fell for the Hydra hype a few years ago, bought a rear hub, it's been nothing but a pain since D1. The bearings barely make it through a UT season, and I'm not doing a whole lot of mileage with the bike the Hydra is on, mostly painful alpine rides with lots of slow steeps and HAB. First bearing replacements at 400 miles, now at about 800 and the wheel feels very sluggish when spun by hand. The drag is unreal, I can't imagine how much power I'm wasting to that POS. I'm getting a new rear wheel built with a Bitex hub. My trail bike has a DT350 that I've ridden for 5 seasons and close to 4000 miles, I think I've re-greased it twice, it looks like a perpetual motion machine next to the I9...

**SJG** · 10-10-2024, 02:02 PM

I have Ibis hubs, and have to change bearings around every 2500 HARD miles. On my 3rd freehub also, they go around 3k with my use. I've been impressed with them. Last bike had Hope Pro2s and those bearings only went 800-1000 miles before they STB. Regularly.

**toast2266** · 10-10-2024, 05:06 PM

Originally Posted by mildbill.

So my question is - where are they getting 5lbs heavier on the other aluminum framed (both are "Alpha Platinum") bike?

I could see a lb or 2 on the crank / bb / cassette...zero on the fork, negligible on the dropper / wheels / tires...3lb difference on the frame seems crazy...

Published weights certainly tend to be bullshitty, but on 2 bikes from the same company, I'd be inclined to believe the published difference in weight is in the right ballpark. Lower end parts add a lot of weight, really quickly. Like, I've seen plenty of instances where going a rung or two down in something like a cassette will add a full pound.

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**mildbill.** · 10-11-2024, 11:52 AM

Originally Posted by toast2266

Published weights certainly tend to be bullshitty, but on 2 bikes from the same company

Unless it's a conspiracy to get me to buy the more expensive bike...which...you don't need a conspiracy for that...

**Iowagriz** · 10-11-2024, 07:29 PM

Mildbill- I'll fully into the OCD, analysis headspace. Start spreadsheet with all components. Weights can be found via pricepoint or other websites.

Some guesses will have to be made, but you'll eventually narrow it down to a frame weight. That should show you the problem areas. In my experience. Tires, wheelset, cassette are the 3 biggest problem areas. Those can also be improved as they wear out. The frames will be within half pound (normally).

Eta- Forks can be major weight gain, and expensive to replace. Watch that area.

**joetron** · 10-11-2024, 10:11 PM

Originally Posted by mildbill.

Ask the experts: Would a bike company present misleading weight numbers? How shocked should I be!!??!

Situation: 11 year old is starting in the NICA world this year. I'm engaged in full analysis paralysis mode on what bike, but was perusing the Trek website thanks to the 25% NICA discount...

Trek is offering 2 aluminum hardtails with virtually identical specs, listing one at 33lbs in medium, one at 28lbs in medium.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...lorCode=orange vs. https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...black_greydark

The Marlin is more interesting to me because of the size-specific wheels (she is moving up from a 24") and much better standover, in fact the procaliber isn't even in the running due to sizing but the weight discrepancy had me scratching my head.

Fork: Both Judy solo silvers, lighter bike is boost and 120mm vs 100mm (Edit: I now see that they specify a tapered steerer on the lighter bike - safe to assume that 1 1/8" straight steerer on an entry level bike is a heavy steel steerer tube?)
Rims: Same
Hubs: Heavier has formulas, lighter has shimano
Groupset: Heavier has SX, Lighter has Deore
Dropper: Heavier has tranzx, lighter has Bontrager (which is probably a tranzx)
Tires: Heavier has ardent exos, lighter has some bontrager nonsense
BB: Heavier has truvative powerspline, lighter has shimano cups
Both measured with tubeless set up.

And so on.

So my question is - where are they getting 5lbs heavier on the other aluminum framed (both are "Alpha Platinum") bike?

I could see a lb or 2 on the crank / bb / cassette...zero on the fork, negligible on the dropper / wheels / tires...3lb difference on the frame seems crazy...

Powerspline BB and cranks are bricks. So are the cassettes.
It’s not just about weight.
The Deore build is worth the $$. SX is garbage.
The shifter and brakes will feel and perform sooo much better.
Your NICA kid will go faster and be more stoked with the Deore bike.
Trek is not trying to scam you with weight. A Deore bike vs an SX bike is a substantial upgrade.

Edit: I glanced over the size issue in the OG post. Oops….but yeah, a Marlin SX vs a ProCaliber w/ Deore is gonna have a significant weight difference. Same aluminum, but not the same frames.

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**mildbill.** · 10-14-2024, 10:37 AM

Originally Posted by joetron

Your NICA kid will go faster and be more stoked with the Deore bike.
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Copy that - local shop had a Team Marin 1 in a box (deore, RS air fork, boost, they set it up tubeless for her) that they built up after extensive sidewalk testing a Team 2, satisfying dad's insistence that his 90# kid be on a setup with thru axles.

One ride and the 29er seems like the right choice, sizing-wise, as well - and if it wasn't right now it will be in about 3 weeks.

**joetron** · 10-14-2024, 11:53 AM

Sweet! Good call.

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**funkendrenchman** · 10-15-2024, 08:32 PM

I just bought a used Revive dropper. I’m building up a bike and I installed it in the frame without a cable. Is it normal for it to drop all the way down under my own weight? Don’t want to continue setting it up if there’s something wrong with it.

**toast2266** · 10-15-2024, 08:43 PM

Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

I just bought a used Revive dropper. I’m building up a bike and I installed it in the frame without a cable. Is it normal for it to drop all the way down under my own weight? Don’t want to continue setting it up if there’s something wrong with it.

It shouldn't. Check to see that the lever the cable pulls on at the bottom isn't stuck open.

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**funkendrenchman** · 10-15-2024, 10:07 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

It shouldn't. Check to see that the lever the cable pulls on at the bottom isn't stuck open.

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Nope it’s closed. Was going to check the air pressure, but I don’t have the silly extender.

**toast2266** · 10-16-2024, 06:28 AM

Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

Nope it’s closed. Was going to check the air pressure, but I don’t have the silly extender.

Air pressure shouldn't matter. If the air pressure was low, it just wouldn't re-extend all the way.

Also check to see if the "revive" bleed valve is stuck open. That'd allow the post to drop.

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**funkendrenchman** · 10-16-2024, 08:31 AM

Originally Posted by toast2266

Air pressure shouldn't matter. If the air pressure was low, it just wouldn't re-extend all the way.

Also check to see if the "revive" bleed valve is stuck open. That'd allow the post to drop.

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Thanks. I think it just needed the revive a few times. I tried it a couple times last night and couldn't get it to stay up (that's what she said). Tried again this morning and it works.

**jm2e** · 10-16-2024, 12:02 PM

Yea, it needs to be revived. It’s worth getting one of their mini lever ($10 at Universal Cycles).
I had a first gen Revive that eventually needed multiple “revives” during a single ride (5 years old). Sent it to Dirt Labs for a rebuild. They have an arrangement with Bike Yoke to upgrade all older models to newer internals for no additional charge (other than standard rebuild).
You can also rebuild yourself. My understanding is it’s pretty straight forward.

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**jm2e** · 10-16-2024, 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

Nope it’s closed. Was going to check the air pressure, but I don’t have the silly extender.

The extender (Air Valve Adapter) is $6 at Universal Cycles.
I might have an extra one if you need.

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**VTskibum** · 10-16-2024, 07:41 PM

Originally Posted by jm2e

Yea, it needs to be revived. It’s worth getting one of their mini lever ($10 at Universal Cycles).
I had a first gen Revive that eventually needed multiple “revives” during a single ride (5 years old). Sent it to Dirt Labs for a rebuild. They have an arrangement with Bike Yoke to upgrade all older models to newer internals for no additional charge (other than standard rebuild).
You can also rebuild yourself. My understanding is it’s pretty straight forward.

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Recently rebuilt a BikeYoke v2 after my revive wasn’t reviving. Was pretty straightforward once i got into it.

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