Ask the experts

[Alpinord]

There is always the new bike approach instead.

True dat! Looks like an e-bike will be the new ride someday.

[toast2266]

We always seem to think alike. I built my last bike around the Roval Traverse SL Wheelset which is close (better) than this spec. It truly is a fantastic carbon wheelset.

Yeah, those traverse sl's look pretty sweet. They'd be on my short list if I was buying a full wheelset.

[Bluebird]

I'm sure its been asked but I can't find it. Building up a frame for the first time and am searching for a fork. I don't have the frame yet so can only go off the website specs. Transition Sentinel V2. Is there a rule of thumb for minimum steerer tube length? Specs say head tube length is 110mm. How much extra should I give myself considering stem (40ishmm), headset (30ishmm), crown race, and some spacers. I'm finding some decent prices on forks with 6 1/2" steerers but I'm thinking thats not enough.

[forty]

A couple years ago, I converted my Superfly to a 1x11 & added a gravel wheelset. The mountain bike wheelset is dialed with the derailleur and shifting. I don't want this to change. The gravel wheelset was 'ok' but now is off a skosh and will shift past the big cog and get caught. Aside from messing with and adjusting the limit screw every time I swap wheelsets, is there an idiot proof way to set this up to simply have both wheelsets dialed after swapping?

Attachment 414637

you would have to space out the mtb wheelset to match the gravel one rather than match the gravel to the mtb

but you might be able to use a thin spacer behind the cassette to align them the same, most ss spacers are fairly thick but they do make thinner ones, also some bottom brackets are the same diameter and use super thin spacers that might work

[toast2266]

I'm sure its been asked but I can't find it. Building up a frame for the first time and am searching for a fork. I don't have the frame yet so can only go off the website specs. Transition Sentinel V2. Is there a rule of thumb for minimum steerer tube length? Specs say head tube length is 110mm. How much extra should I give myself considering stem (40ishmm), headset (30ishmm), crown race, and some spacers. I'm finding some decent prices on forks with 6 1/2" steerers but I'm thinking thats not enough.

A 6.5" steerer would be cutting it real close. Probably too close. There's a reason they're cheap.

Your thought process is about right, although I believe the sentinel has a zero stack headset, so the headset will likely be more like 15mm or so. Even so, 110mm headtube + 40mm stem + 15mm headset + ~10mm headset spacers = 175mm, which is about 10mm more than a 6.5" steerer. If you ran zero spacers and a stem with a short stack height, you'd probably be able to make it work.

[Alpinord]

you would have to space out the mtb wheelset to match the gravel one rather than match the gravel to the mtb

but you might be able to use a thin spacer behind the cassette to align them the same, most ss spacers are fairly thick but they do make thinner ones, also some bottom brackets are the same diameter and use super thin spacers that might work

I was wondering about some kind of shim. I've got an idea on a measuring tool I can 3d print to compare the spacing/layout for each wheelset (the rotors to BB, cassette to BB, hub, etc.).

[VTskibum]

Yeah, those traverse sl's look pretty sweet. They'd be on my short list if I was buying a full wheelset.

I’ve got 1500 miles on a set of these that came stock w my ‘20 Stumpjumper. Generally a fan, though I have been breaking spokes and nipples recently on them, just had a nipple snap really on just some normal trail riding last week. No big jumps or anything too abusive.

They’re also straight pull (not a fan), pretty long and rare ~304mm. I’m tempted to get them re-laced. YMMV, definitely don’t think I do anything too rowdy and I’m not heavy. All in all minor gripes.


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[simple]

VTskibum you have the previous generation Traverse SL which are nice wheels. Current gen has J bend spokes, better hubs, and all the spokes are the same size. Rim isn't changed much as it is bombproof

[cydwhit]

I'm sure its been asked but I can't find it. Building up a frame for the first time and am searching for a fork. I don't have the frame yet so can only go off the website specs. Transition Sentinel V2. Is there a rule of thumb for minimum steerer tube length? Specs say head tube length is 110mm. How much extra should I give myself considering stem (40ishmm), headset (30ishmm), crown race, and some spacers. I'm finding some decent prices on forks with 6 1/2" steerers but I'm thinking thats not enough.

What Toast Said.

As a data point: Put a used fork with a 7.5" steerer on my wife's medium V2 Sentinel, she has 4 x5mm spacers and a OneUp stem. Could probably have gotten away with 7" but wanted to leaver her some adjustability.

[VTskibum]

VTskibum you have the previous generation Traverse SL which are nice wheels. Current gen has J bend spokes, better hubs, and all the spokes are the same size. Rim isn't changed much as it is bombproof

Well damn! That would solve basically all of my complaints about them.


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[Dee Hubbs]

I was wondering about some kind of shim. I've got an idea on a measuring tool I can 3d print to compare the spacing/layout for each wheelset (the rotors to BB, cassette to BB, hub, etc.).

Shims work. I've done it to many wheel sets to make swaps seamless between different wheel sets.
Wheels MGF have 0.3mm, 0.5, 1.0 cassette/BB shims. Also McMaster Carr has some that work well, ID need to be 35mm.

I respect your tools, and your design ideas, but I doubt you can 3D print something to measure the difference in spacing of rotors and cassettes.
The difference between a disc rubbing on one wheel set vs another is less than 0.5mm.
On a 12 speed cassette each shift is only 3.65m apart, with a 0.5mm+/- variance in shifting. Think of your limit screw its an M4x0.7, sometimes the adjustment difference is no more than a 1/2 turn to adjust them limits of your derailleur, that half turn only moves that screw 0.35mm.

[Abies]

A 6.5" steerer would be cutting it real close. Probably too close. There's a reason they're cheap.

Your thought process is about right, although I believe the sentinel has a zero stack headset, so the headset will likely be more like 15mm or so. Even so, 110mm headtube + 40mm stem + 15mm headset + ~10mm headset spacers = 175mm, which is about 10mm more than a 6.5" steerer. If you ran zero spacers and a stem with a short stack height, you'd probably be able to make it work.

In the "ask me how I know" category, I will simply point out the existence of these products:https://slamthatstem.com/ and https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-h...c=ds&gclsrc=ds

Slam That Stem headset topcap cover:


DMR Defy low stack stem:

[Alpinord]

Shims work. I've done it to many wheel sets to make swaps seamless between different wheel sets.
Wheels MGF have 0.3mm, 0.5, 1.0 cassette/BB shims. Also McMaster Carr has some that work well, ID need to be 35mm.

I respect your tools, and your design ideas, but I doubt you can 3D print something to measure the difference in spacing of rotors and cassettes.
The difference between a disc rubbing on one wheel set vs another is less than 0.5mm.
On a 12 speed cassette each shift is only 3.65m apart, with a 0.5mm+/- variance in shifting. Think of your limit screw its an M4x0.7, sometimes the adjustment difference is no more than a 1/2 turn to adjust them limits of your derailleur, that half turn only moves that screw 0.35mm.

Thanks. Good info and I’ll look into shims.

I’ve been impressed on how accurate the 3d printing can be, but I can measure everything with digital calibers much quicker. It might be a fun exercise to see if I can make a ‘template’ for comparing layouts. If not 3d printing, maybe laser cutting.


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[Bluebird]

What Toast Said.

As a data point: Put a used fork with a 7.5" steerer on my wife's medium V2 Sentinel, she has 4 x5mm spacers and a OneUp stem. Could probably have gotten away with 7" but wanted to leaver her some adjustability.

Thanks Toast and cydwhit. Just the info I needed.

[Eluder]

Thanks. Good info and I’ll look into shims.

I’ve been impressed on how accurate the 3d printing can be, but I can measure everything with digital calibers much quicker. It might be a fun exercise to see if I can make a ‘template’ for comparing layouts. If not 3d printing, maybe laser cutting.


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I'm not sure why my brain didn't go to shimming. I am sure its obvious but measuring off the end of the hub to the cassette is a good place to start since the cog spacing is standard.

[Dee Hubbs]

On the shimming point, for 6 bolt rotors I use the locking tabs that go between bolts, but place them on the back side to shim them outwards.
For center lock I like to cut my own shims from a can. Beer cans can be as thin as 0.05mm, Coke cans are typically thicker around 0.1mm, but the best material is a steel can. So I go to the local liquor shop and buy a single Sapporo Beer, it uses a steel can that measures out almost three times as thick as the aluminum cans, typically measuring out just below 0.3mm. These cut nicely, and typically give me this shim distance I need for CLs to get to the right space.

[Dantheman]

For center lock I like to cut my own shims from a can. Beer cans can be as thin as 0.05mm, Coke cans are typically thicker around 0.1mm, but the best material is a steel can. So I go to the local liquor shop and buy a single Sapporo Beer, it uses a steel can that measures out almost three times as thick as the aluminum cans, typically measuring out just below 0.3mm. These cut nicely, and typically give me this shim distance I need for CLs to get to the right space.

Robert Pirsig approves this post.

[Alpinord]

On the shimming point, for 6 bolt rotors I use the locking tabs that go between bolts, but place them on the back side to shim them outwards.
For center lock I like to cut my own shims from a can. Beer cans can be as thin as 0.05mm, Coke cans are typically thicker around 0.1mm, but the best material is a steel can. So I go to the local liquor shop and buy a single Sapporo Beer, it uses a steel can that measures out almost three times as thick as the aluminum cans, typically measuring out just below 0.3mm. These cut nicely, and typically give me this shim distance I need for CLs to get to the right space.

I was wondering about making my own. I have metal flashings that are 0.4mm & 0.7mm for starters.

[beaterdit]

For the folically challenged guys (re: BALD) out there... what do you wear underneath your helmet during MTB rides? I've been using a couple of Headsweats caps for the last few years, but I'm kind of tired of the line it leaves across my forehead after every ride. Is there something thinner that does the trick and won't leave a line on my head? I don't sweat a ton, but it's nice to have a little absorption along with the sun-block ability, of course.

Late to this party as usual but as a bald guy and sweaty bastard, I use sunblock and the Sweat Buster. Said it before but it's a game changer for me. Reduces sweat in my face and glasses by more than 90%. I'll never ride without it again. Wring it out at the top of the climb if it's really saturated. Stands up to regular machine washing no problem. Get a couple or better yet, a four pack and rotate them. The Lady friend sweats a fraction of what I do and she likes it too. Now they have a skinny model for snugger fitting helmets.

Ringle Bubba and Bubba X:

https://hayesbicycle.com/products/bu...34635432394797
https://hayesbicycle.com/products/bu...34635432656941

#homerism

eta: Just looked through that NOBL link. Not quite truly competitive with 240s I guess. But, the Ringles are still sweet hubs that aren't on most people's radar.

This is cool, they were some of the blingiest hubs back in the day. Good to see them back in the game.

[plugboots]

Robert Pirsig approves this post.

I appreciate the reference.

[evdog]

The headsweats are a pretty worthless product regardless. Aside from the annoying line they leave on your forehead they would get saturated with sweat quickly and were then completely useless the rest of the ride. Before I found something better id carry 3 of them. One hanging from pack to dry out, one in the helmet, and one in reserve.

Another vote for Sweat buster after Beaterdit's post. Works great if you sweat a ton. Actually takes quite a while to become totally saturated, and continues to soak up more sweat after you wring it out. Great product.

[Tailwind]

Any feedback on Flo Motorsports Levers for Shimano brakes?

I broke a lever on my SLX four piston brakes today and I'm contemplating just buying a set.

[jm2e]

Why would you spend $100 on levers and then fiddle around figuring out how to swap something that’s designed to not be swapped, when you can get a whole Zee/XT/SLX lever assembly for much less?
Honestly curious.
Also, if you do it, please post up a TR so we can see how it went.


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[MegaStoke]

Any feedback on Flo Motorsports Levers for Shimano brakes?

I broke a lever on my SLX four piston brakes today and I'm contemplating just buying a set.

I haven’t personally owned them, but worked on a bike with a set and was impressed with the build quality and lever feel.

[Tailwind]

Ehhh probably a good question.

I can't find the left lever in stock (only rights) and the flow levers are supposed to be good, which has me intrigued. Benefits should be better feel(?) and that they're 'unbreakable'. At the end of the day, I can buy a new lever set for $90 and hopefully end up with two slightly better brakes... or buy a new lever for $60 and need to bleed everything.

I'll probably kick around looking for a lever for a bit more before I jump one something. Kinda wondering if it would be worth the money.

Why would you spend $100 on levers and then fiddle around figuring out how to swap something that’s designed to not be swapped, when you can get a whole Zee/XT/SLX lever assembly for much less?
Honestly curious.
Also, if you do it, please post up a TR so we can see how it went.


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