Ask the experts

[J. Barron DeJong]

How do you deal with derailleur adjustments that work fine on the stand but acts up when being ridden?

I have a Shimao Claris (I know, I know..) 2 x 8 on my cheapish road bike. Up front it doesn't want to shift off of the big ring. Can tune it on the stand but when riding the problem comes back.

Any advice? (beyond a better groupset lol)

First would be to confirm the derailleur is installed correctly - should clear the big ring by 3mm, and the cage should be parallel with the chainrings (or trailing end of the cage a touch inboard).

If that’s good, next would be to try backing out the low limit screw to allow the derailleur to move further inboard when shifting to the small ring. Also check to make sure that the cable goes slack when in the small ring - cable tension would keep the derailleur from moving fully inboard.

Also, is the cable lubed and moving freely?

[Thaleia]

I’ve got this weird cathunk when I’m climbing in the rear wheel. I can’t tell if it’s the cassette slipping or a hub issue?

I had something similar and it turned out the smallest cog on the cassette with threads had come loose.

[Thaleia]

Thanks JBDJ - will dig back into this tonight or tomorrow.

[Thaleia]

In the meantime, my nephew got a flat riding to school. Wheel is 27.5 x 2. Had an old 26 x ~2.10 on hand so used that to get him rolling.

He lives on his bike which is awesome, but another flat at certain places he goes to is a major pita for him. (the last flat was a 4km hike a bike to home)

Should I get a proper size or will this continue to trustworthy? Only asking because the 26 inch tube fit (unexpectedly) really well.

[Tailwind]

I’ve been primarily a mountain biker for a few years. Spending a a lot more time on pavement this year as I’ve been working through an injury (torn Achilles I don’t want to crash on). I’ve been realizing that from a training perspective i should likely spend a few days a week riding gravel or pavement to have more zone 2 in my training than I normally get on the mountain bike.

Current bike is a Canyon Grizl with 700x47 tires and Dt Swiss 1800 series aluminum wheels… it leaves a bit to be desired when hammering pavement climbs. It’s also a 1x system with a Shimano 11-40 cassette which isn’t great for road riding. Nice bike otherwise. I’m curious about trying some long pavement routes (150+ miles in the Rockies). The distance or time on the bike doesn’t bother me but I’ve done a few centuries this year on the Grizl and it doesn’t feel fast as you’re riding it.

Question is:
Do I buy a fancy set of wheels for the current bike and throw some light 28-32c tires on there? Something like a pair of reserve wheels used in the 34mm depth. I’d probably buy a nicer gravel bike in a year or two and keep the nice wheels.

Or do I buy a pretty nice used road bike for like $3500-$4000? Maybe a Cervelo Soloist or similar bike. I’d keep the gravel bike in this instance.

By default I’d like to still spend most of my time on my mountain bikes which makes me hesitant to throw down for the road bike but I’m worried the nice wheels are a half step that won’t accomplish what I want. Spending money on the road bike might push the next mountain bike upgrade out a while.

[Skistack]

I’m pretty happy with a road wheelset for my Salsa Warbird. But the problem with getting a nice road wheelset is you’ll quickly realize how crappy your gravel wheelset is. So might as well budget for 2 wheelsets.


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[XtrPickels]

In the meantime, my nephew got a flat riding to school. Wheel is 27.5 x 2. Had an old 26 x ~2.10 on hand so used that to get him rolling.

He lives on his bike which is awesome, but another flat at certain places he goes to is a major pita for him. (the last flat was a 4km hike a bike to home)

Should I get a proper size or will this continue to trustworthy? Only asking because the 26 inch tube fit (unexpectedly) really well.

Shouldn't be an issue.

[EWG]

I’ve been primarily a mountain biker for a few years. Spending a a lot more time on pavement this year as I’ve been working through an injury (torn Achilles I don’t want to crash on). I’ve been realizing that from a training perspective i should likely spend a few days a week riding gravel or pavement to have more zone 2 in my training than I normally get on the mountain bike.

Current bike is a Canyon Grizl with 700x47 tires and Dt Swiss 1800 series aluminum wheels… it leaves a bit to be desired when hammering pavement climbs. It’s also a 1x system with a Shimano 11-40 cassette which isn’t great for road riding. Nice bike otherwise. I’m curious about trying some long pavement routes (150+ miles in the Rockies). The distance or time on the bike doesn’t bother me but I’ve done a few centuries this year on the Grizl and it doesn’t feel fast as you’re riding it.

Question is:
Do I buy a fancy set of wheels for the current bike and throw some light 28-32c tires on there? Something like a pair of reserve wheels used in the 34mm depth. I’d probably buy a nicer gravel bike in a year or two and keep the nice wheels.

Or do I buy a pretty nice used road bike for like $3500-$4000? Maybe a Cervelo Soloist or similar bike. I’d keep the gravel bike in this instance.

By default I’d like to still spend most of my time on my mountain bikes which makes me hesitant to throw down for the road bike but I’m worried the nice wheels are a half step that won’t accomplish what I want. Spending money on the road bike might push the next mountain bike upgrade out a while.

Depending on the hubs, it's like not a super easy switch back and forth between two wheelsets - you'll likely need a quick brake adjustment so the rotors don't rub. But as long as you aren't switching them out on the daily it's probably fine. Or just do as skistack suggests adn buy two super nice wheelsets with the same hubs. Ha.

[EWG]

Ok, I scratched the Kashima on my Fox Factory 36. Believe it or not, that has literally never happened to a single bike I maintain before in . Shocking, but here I am. Very small scratch - I can just barely catch a nail on it. It's low on the stanchion so it goes into the legs constantly.

There seems to be two schools of thought on this: buff it out so you can't feel it or your shock with blow up (get dirtier inside and/or wear out seals fast), or fuck it, it'll be fine.

What do we all think?

[Andeh]

There's a repair kit out there from some French company, relatively easy to use. Basically it has you use the included fine file to get rid of any bur, then fill the scratch with epoxy, then polish it smooth. The point of the repair is just to minimize damage you do to the seals / dust wipers. I've done it on a couple of dropper posts - even with the black kit you can still see the scratch but can't feel it at all afterwards.

https://www.sendhit.net/products/scratch-cover

[toast2266]

For a scratch that you can barely feel with your fingernail, I'd say fuck it. Leave it as is. It'll *maybe* hasten the demise of your wipers by a little bit, but wipers are neither particularly expensive nor particularly difficult to change.

[skaredshtles]

I'm in the "fuck it and let it ride" camp...

[Thaleia]

Shouldn't be an issue.

Appreciated, thank you.

[Huskier]

[QUOTE=Tailwind;7127276]I’ve been primarily a mountain biker for a few years. Spending a a lot more time on pavement.

Current bike is a Canyon Grizl with 700x47 tires and Dt Swiss 1800 series aluminum wheels… it leaves a bit to be desired when hammering pavement climbs.

Question is:
Do I buy a fancy set of wheels for the current bike and throw some light 28-32c tires on there?
[/QUOTE=Tailwind;7127276]


Why not deeper? If The mission is pavement... I picked up a set of 50mm Chinese Amazon specials for like 4hundy, gained about 1mph average cruising speed over the stock 30mm rim. They ride nice enough for centuries, minimal flex or weight penalty when climbing. Save the stock rims for gravel grinding...

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[plugboots]

N+

[Boissal]

I've done the file and nail polish method because I was worried polishing epoxy would be too hard and i'd end up polishing off half the stanchion.
It looked beautiful but the nail polish eventually got rubbed off (logically). If I had to do it again I'd just make sure there are no sharp edges on the stanchion and call it good. Not sure there's much benefit in filling the scratch with anything, can't imagine it will make your fork suck that much more dust...

[Thaleia]

First would be to confirm the derailleur is installed correctly - should clear the big ring by 3mm, and the cage should be parallel with the chainrings (or trailing end of the cage a touch inboard).

If that’s good, next would be to try backing out the low limit screw to allow the derailleur to move further inboard when shifting to the small ring. Also check to make sure that the cable goes slack when in the small ring - cable tension would keep the derailleur from moving fully inboard.

Also, is the cable lubed and moving freely?

Everything looks good and as you described. Cable seems to move freely.

Of course on the stand it shifts properly as is, so for now I've backed out the low a bit more and will test it on tomorrow's ride.

Thank you for the guidance.

[mildbill.]

I've done the file and nail polish method because I was worried polishing epoxy would be too hard and i'd end up polishing off half the stanchion.

I have a bottle of bright orange nail polish - have had to do 2 or 3 fixes. I like the orange becasue it is easeir to track and see as it wears if you need to replace.

I do not use a file, but rather cut small squares out of a sheet of 1500 - 2000 - 2500 grit sandpaper. Takes a while but it removes the nail polish but not the stanchion coating. I use the 1500 for the prouder bits of the nail polish and go finer from there.

[Boissal]

Experts, thoughts on Bitex hubs, specifically the BX212?

I've had it with the Hydra on my big bike. It has the worst drag of any hub I've ever tried, the bearings go to shite in under a season, the buzz has lot its appeal by now, and the fast engagement is not something I care for (honestly don't find my DT350s to be lacking in that department).
I'm having a new wheel built and the DT350 option is more than $200 pricier than the Bitex one. Same number of POE, very similar weights. The reviews seem quite positive but I'd be curious to hear from anyone one here having tried those hubs.
Another option that is cheaper than DT by $100 (but more expensive than Bitex by $100 as well) would be the new Hope Pro 5. Faster engagement, blingy, apparently lowest drag ever, but I'm reading that bearings can go fast.

I don't care for bling at all, I like the 350 cause they work, require 0 maintenance, I never even have to think about them which is exactly what I want from my hubs. Bling is for brakes and suspension IMO, the rest doesn't matter.

[climberevan]

I used to be a big fan of Bitex, but after blowing up a freehub in New Zealand and being utterly unable to find a replacement and having to buy a whole new wheel to finish the trip (they are not imported there at all), I'm on Team DTS from now on.

If ultimate reliability is less important than cost and weight, Bitex is probably the best of the cheaper options.

[Andeh]

I don't care for bling at all, I like the 350 cause they work, require 0 maintenance, I never even have to think about them which is exactly what I want from my hubs. Bling is for brakes and suspension IMO, the rest doesn't matter.

This is why I'm back on 350s. Good parts are the ones you never ever have to think about.

[SJG]

350s heavy AF though, but they are reliable!

[LeeLau]

I probably have another 3 random levers. So if he needs 6 …….


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And Andeh

I have three dropper levers of the older variety where the cable clamps at the post. Eg older KS, 9point8. I definitely don't need 3 of these.

I do need one ( possibly 2) dropper lever where the cable clamps at the lever. Anyone want to trade?

[Andeh]

When I looked in my parts box, I found only 2 levers. Banana got the 1 that clamped at the lever.

[Andeh]

350s heavy AF though, but they are reliable!

for 32h (from Fanatik's website)
King: 184g + 342g
Hope Pro 5: 188g + 312g
1/1: 165g + 295g
Hydras: 155g + 295g
350: 165g + 271g
240 EXP: 144g + 255g
OneUp: 142g + 220g

I wouldn't call that heavy AF. And ~$350 less than the 240s - that's a pretty bad $/g upgrade, even coming from a guy who puts Ti bolts on his bikes.