Ask the experts

[El Chupacabra]

I’m gonna expert myself here-
Nay.

It totally exposes the star nut and cap bolt to all kinds of crud. Yes, I properly seal my threads with grease, but still, I don’t need all the muck that ends up on my face to also end up on my star nut and cap bolt.

Anyone want a blingy Garbaruk spoked steer tube top cap?

What's it look like? I might. I put stupid stem caps on road bikes...

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Can I "lever bleed" a newer set of Sram Code RSC? I want to replace pads and didn't realize the newer srams have this bleeding edge port on the caliper. My old bleed kit won't work for caliper, but the lever port is the same as before I think?

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[toast2266]

Can I "lever bleed" a newer set of Sram Code RSC? I want to replace pads and didn't realize the newer srams have this bleeding edge port on the caliper. My old bleed kit won't work for caliper, but the lever port is the same as before I think?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

If you just trimmed hose, you can probably get away with just sucking air out at the lever.

It's worth getting the bleeding edge fitting though. It's a slick system that's makes it super easy to get a good bleed.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Haven't trimmed hose and the levers aren't super soft or anything, but I want to put in new pads front and rear. Race in a couple days.

Can I just push the cylinders back and pop in new pads? Haven't fucked with Srams in like 5 years.

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[Dee Hubbs]

Can I "lever bleed" a newer set of Sram Code RSC? I want to replace pads and didn't realize the newer srams have this bleeding edge port on the caliper. My old bleed kit won't work for caliper, but the lever port is the same as before I think?

The lever end has a "traditional" fitting, the "Bleeding edge" fittings are only in the caliper ends.
You "can" do a lever only bleed. It will help if there is any air in the lever side, it will be difficult to get any air out of the caliper end from a lever only bleed. Just do a lot of push and pulls with the syringe and cycle the lever in and out.

[ridinshockgun]

Haven't trimmed hose and the levers aren't super soft or anything, but I want to put in new pads front and rear. Race in a couple days.

Can I just push the cylinders back and pop in new pads? Haven't fucked with Srams in like 5 years.

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I've replace the pads on RSC several times and no bleed was required.

[g_man80]

I've replace the pads on RSC several times and no bleed was required.

I've also done just a pad change on newer SRAMs and did not have to bleed. The contact point adjustment on the RSC may be helpful if the bite point changes with the new pads.

[grinch]

Hey toast, did you put that 38 in a vice befire you sent it to fox? Im pretty sure the nasty creak us coming from my 38. Cranking on the pedals and pulling on the bars is when it happens . Soneone suggested i put it in a vice and give it a twist

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[toast2266]

Hey toast, did you put that 38 in a vice befire you sent it to fox? Im pretty sure the nasty creak us coming from my 38. Cranking on the pedals and pulling on the bars is when it happens . Soneone suggested i put it in a vice and give it a twist

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I did, but I couldn't get it to creak in the vice. But if I held my bike vertical on the front wheel and pushed down, I was pretty clearly getting a (bad) creak from the headset region.

Sent the fork back, fox pressed a new csu, and it was fine after that.

I know a few other people that have gotten similar creaks in their 38.

[grinch]

I did, but I couldn't get it to creak in the vice. But if I held my bike vertical on the front wheel and pushed down, I was pretty clearly getting a (bad) creak from the headset region.

Sent the fork back, fox pressed a new csu, and it was fine after that.

I know a few other people that have gotten similar creaks in their 38.

Ok thanks. Ill try that. With all the moon dust i went for my headset first and cleaned and greased everything. Wasnt that. Pf bb but the bike is basically new. Carbon bar too but they dont usually creak that loud. Ill try the vertical thing. Youre description in your review and the extra volume creak makes me think its the fork as i suspected

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[HAB]

I did, but I couldn't get it to creak in the vice. But if I held my bike vertical on the front wheel and pushed down, I was pretty clearly getting a (bad) creak from the headset region.

Sent the fork back, fox pressed a new csu, and it was fine after that.

I know a few other people that have gotten similar creaks in their 38.

Do you mean they pressed in a new steerer, or just swapped the whole CSU?

[toast2266]

Do you mean they pressed in a new steerer, or just swapped the whole CSU?

I *think* they swapped the whole csu. But they didn't tell me, and I didn't mark the old fork. So I'm not actually entirely sure. All I know for sure is that the lowers that came back are the same.

[HAB]

I *think* they swapped the whole csu. But they didn't tell me, and I didn't mark the old fork. So I'm not actually entirely sure. All I know for sure is that the lowers that came back are the same.

I figured, I'd be surprised if they were trying to swap steerers. A lot quicker and easier to throw a new CSU in there.

[toast2266]

I figured, I'd be surprised if they were trying to swap steerers. A lot quicker and easier to throw a new CSU in there.

I'm sure in the long run that'll be true. I was somewhat under the impression that they were doing a closer examination on some of these earlier creaky models.

[HAB]

I'm sure in the long run that'll be true. I was somewhat under the impression that they were doing a closer examination on some of these earlier creaky models.

If I were them I'd definitely be pulling the creaky ones apart to see what's going on in there. I just don't think I'd be sending parts of them back into the field.

[toast2266]

If I were them I'd definitely be pulling the creaky ones apart to see what's going on in there. I just don't think I'd be sending parts of them back into the field.

I think theoretically, some of the problem is just the elliptical steerer being pressed in not quite straight. So it might be as easy as just pushing that out and repressing one that's straight.

[Andeh]

I did, but I couldn't get it to creak in the vice. But if I held my bike vertical on the front wheel and pushed down, I was pretty clearly getting a (bad) creak from the headset region.

Sent the fork back, fox pressed a new csu, and it was fine after that.

I know a few other people that have gotten similar creaks in their 38.

That's exactly what my 36 does. I suspected that it's the CSU, not some issue with headset (it happens on multiple bikes), but nice to know I'm not crazy. I can't wait to get rid of it. It's really distracting any time I dive into a berm or g-out hard when it makes this loud crack.

[skaredshtles]

My 34 did that. Shop sent it to Fox, they replaced the CSU, and fortunately were out of standard stanchions, so they were replaced with Kashima.

Which mad it a little easier to immediately sell.

[SchralphMacchio]

What lightweight 203mm 6-bolt rotor? Not looking for the most bling, just something that fits the "lighter than most without being unreasonably expensive" billing.

The only 203mm rotor my shop had was an SLX, and in my hand it seemed surprisingly heavy. Or are they all about the same weight?
To be paired with SLX 2-piston brakes, so not the stoppiest, but possibly the sloppiest ...

[rideit]

SRAM centerline is the best bang for the buck, IMO. (200mm)
I never thought the 1.5mm would make a damn difference.

[SchralphMacchio]

Cool, thanks!

Although I only want it if I will draw every female elephant within a 100 mile radius to my local trail when braking. I’ll be a rock star, yes?

[rideit]

I think that’s the calipers that’s squawk, not the rotors.

[El Chupacabra]

SRAM centerline is the best bang for the buck, IMO. (200mm)
I never thought the 1.5mm would make a damn difference.

FWIW, I have SRAM centerline rotors on my hardtail, with older generation SLX brakes (675, IIRC). Works fine. 180/160, so can't comment on the 200/203 sizing.

[bagtagley]

My OG 5.10s finally gave up. This was the only option at the time and I disliked almost everything about them other than the soles. What 5.10s would people suggest now? Freeriders?

[skaredshtles]

My OG 5.10s finally gave up. This was the only option at the time and I disliked almost everything about them other than the soles. What 5.10s would people suggest now? Freeriders?

Holy shit. Those shoes don't owe you anything...