Results 6,351 to 6,375 of 13303
Thread: Ask the experts
-
10-22-2021, 10:41 AM #6351
Assuming the new free hub was the the appropriate Hope version (not a knockoff, if those exist), and assuming the hub is still under warranty, neither the changed rim nor replacing the free hub body should mean you’re denied warranty consideration.
ETA: if Colorado Cyclist won’t help, I’d definitely go back to Hope themselves and explain the situation with the wheel/hub history, and let them know that that CC isn’t being cooperative.
-
10-22-2021, 10:44 AM #6352
I think it's going to come down to the mood of the specific person you're dealing with.
Personally, I would have swapped the microspline back onto the hub before sending it back. Does the hub have a serial number that you can refer to?
-
10-22-2021, 10:57 AM #6353Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Central VT
- Posts
- 4,808
The XD freehub was from Hope some nothing to worry about there. I'll certainly go to Hope USA if they tell give me a no.
Yeah, I probably should've swapped the freehub but that never crossed my mind. There should be a serial number in the hub so I hope they can verify that way. We shall see........
-
10-22-2021, 12:10 PM #6354Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Donner Summit
- Posts
- 1,251
You should be able to get a hub replacement but CC may be unwilling to rebuild it with the new hub since it's no longer a CC wheel. If that's the case I'd just ask for a new hub and for the rim and spokes to be sent back to you.
-
10-22-2021, 05:50 PM #6355Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2005
- Location
- Livingston, MT
- Posts
- 1,793
Ask the experts
Is this the delicate part of the SLX 12 speed people are seeing break pretty easily? Wondering if upgrading it is worth it? It would be SLX vs XT, no way am I paying XtR price (or is it worth the premium?). I remember this being discussed somewhere around…
Or the better question is whether there is a difference with slx vs xtr inner cage? I found one of each on eBay from overseas. They look the same, but is the material identical. Probably just order the cheaper and call it a day. Of course the shop where I bought the bike could not get the part. Standard even pre-pandemic.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsLast edited by hick; 10-23-2021 at 03:03 PM.
-
10-30-2021, 10:45 AM #6356
Rotors and Pads.
Huge fail this year pairing the Magura 2.0mm thick Ebike rotors with MTX pads. Bedded in nice and quick, followed either a couple day or a couple weeks later by horrible squealing and howling. Tried sanding down the rotors and the pads and cleaning, to no avail. Better results with shimano pads on the Magura rotor, but at the end of the day, they both seemed like a total fail.
Thinking about Galfer rotors and pads next, but fuckall that this ends up being another $175 experiment per bike.
This is for bike park, DH rig, hammering on the brakes all day long. Steep and fast at Mtn Creek, Snowshoe & Windrock. Whatever works for trail riding just doesn't apply here.
Any sage advice?However many are in a shit ton.
-
10-30-2021, 11:29 AM #6357
^ Assuming Magura brakes? A MT5 or MT7 4 pot brake?
Assuming the MTX Gold HD pads? not the Red RACE version?
Magura MDR-P 2 piece or Magura MDR-C 1 piece? what size?
How big of adapter is your frame and fork using to get to your desired rotor?
What frame material is bike? Alu, Carbon, Steel?
-
10-30-2021, 01:10 PM #6358Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,089
well you could try sanding them and then going to the top of a big mile long hill and do panic stops all the way down to bed them in which worked for me on a new FAT bike
on a fox 36 with Shimanp brakes I would think it had gone away with the sanding/ panic stops but it would come back at partial application in the middle of a berm.
I sold the bike and it was no longer my problem
edit: to sand your pads is easy you just take em out & sand them but if you wana sand your rotors use one of those sanding rollers you chuck into a drill, angle the drill slightly and the roller will rotate the wheel/rotor as it sands
or sell your bike to a medical professional with a lot of moneyLast edited by XXX-er; 10-31-2021 at 11:24 AM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
10-30-2021, 01:54 PM #6359
Try Shimano rotors? Centerlines? I get silence with both of those. 1 bike has full Shimano brake setup, other bike is MT7's and Centerlines. Sintered pads on the Shimanos. No idea what on the Maguras. Probably whatever they came with. Hope they like sintered as I have those hanging around, but whatever oem is on them actually seems to last and not get messed up.
-
10-30-2021, 08:48 PM #6360
Alloy DH bikes with Saint brakes. Went with the Magura 2.0mm rotors because we warp and bend 1.8 constantly. Went with MTX because you gotta try something with this supply shit show and had read more squeal stories about Galfer at the time.
I’d stick with RT76 or Centerline if they had a thick version.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
-
10-30-2021, 08:51 PM #6361
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
-
10-30-2021, 10:58 PM #6362
-
10-31-2021, 10:46 AM #6363Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Vermont
- Posts
- 1,492
Valve stems that are impossible to open with fingertips likely due to Stans fluid, can they be cleaned or is it easier to just replace? Sick of using pliers to open and been putting off until end of season which seems right around the corner.
-
10-31-2021, 11:05 AM #6364Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Donner Summit
- Posts
- 1,251
-
10-31-2021, 11:10 AM #6365Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,089
If one does not overtighten valve stems they will undo with fingers, IME the little knurled roller should only be ... finger tight
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
10-31-2021, 12:18 PM #6366
Anyone have experience with creaking/groaning under load with the new XT 8100 12-speed rear hubs?
I’m having to take my freehub apart every dozen rides or so to clean and lube it. I know the original service manual said to only apply a little grease to the tips of the ‘fingers’ on the plastic spacer but more recent guidance says to be more generous, but no matter how generous I am with the grease, and no matter how meticulous I am with cleaning it all before reassembly, noise comes back in short order.
Is this something they all do and either you live with it or replace the hub? Or is something worn/defective and replacing a part/whole freebody would solve the problem?
-
10-31-2021, 08:10 PM #6367Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,089
are you sure where the noise is coming from, the hub or the interface between hub & frame ??
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
10-31-2021, 08:24 PM #6368Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Posts
- 2,510
-
10-31-2021, 08:28 PM #6369Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Posts
- 2,510
Oh wait, my bad, you want Sram's TyreWiz.
-
10-31-2021, 08:36 PM #6370
-
10-31-2021, 09:35 PM #6371
-
11-01-2021, 06:07 AM #6372
Those hubs are finicky with multiple small parts, different springs, and multiple spacers, seals and lock rings.
I see you mentioned the manual in regards to how much grease to apply. Are you sure it’s assembled in the correct order?
It’s worth trying to reduce one of the spacer washers to see if the creaking is based on a tight tolerance.
I have not heard of issues with this hub, and looked in the Shimano forum to see if anyone else has had issues, no reports there.
Here’s the DM in case you don’t have it.
https://si.shimano.com/#/en/iDM/MAHB...OC_MAINTENANCE
-
11-01-2021, 06:12 AM #6373Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Vermont
- Posts
- 1,492
That’s always been my experience but these new ibis wheels are the exception. Even just barely tightening to close with fingertips by the time the next ride comes I can’t open the valve to add air. Had multiple friends try it out as well to make sure I’m not the moron, well at least not in this instance.
Thanks. Didn’t even think of this route. I might have some cores in a bin downstairs. Time to get digging.
-
11-01-2021, 09:46 AM #6374
-
11-01-2021, 10:14 AM #6375
I don't know anything about those hubs in particular, but the microspline driver on my Chris Kings is extremely prone to creaking. I've already warrantied it once. An XD driver (on the exact same hub) doesn't creak at all. I'm beginning to suspect that the microspline design is just a bit problematic. The guys at Chris King indicated that they'd had some trouble making a microspline driver that worked well, but I don't know the specifics of what makes it tricky.
Bookmarks