Ask the experts

[Jax]

Bling the wife's new ride:

Def not own thread worthy, but I'm trying to bling out Mrs Duffs soon to arrive new Ripley AF in pink . She thought the White (protein shake ) color is pretty bland, so trying to pink it up as much as reasonable .

So far: have a Spank Split pink stem and RF Chesters and pink grips coming. Any good options for pink stem spacers or topcaps that match the Spank?

Does anyone know where to find a side loading bottle cage in pink? No luck so far

Also want to grab new matched Fox 34 fork sticker . Slick vs Stikred vs others? I looked at the full Ibis frame logos and such also, but that seems like they would be tough to do and probably not wear well. Anyone try this on their ride?

Pink Wolf Tooth remote? It's the light action, which is sweet for girly thumbs (love mine). Pink was a limited edition color and WT is sold out. https://www.amazon.com/Wolf-Tooth-Re.../dp/B0B1SDHS46

WT has pink bottle cage bolts: https://www.amazon.com/Wolf-Tooth-Re.../dp/B0B1SDHS46

[jono]

Ok. This 609 cures on it's own or you can use the activator for a super fast cure like you said. Can't find any of this stuff locally so had to order online. I don't want to wait another week for activator. Just gonna clean well with iso and goop some of this stuff in where the cups sit and see what happens. Regular grease makes it quiet for half a ride and then it's super loud and annoying.

I used to use 609 to secure cartridge bearings (stainless IMS) in machined aluminum pockets for an Airbus. Never used it with carbon, but it's really low viscosity and doesn't form a crazy strong bond, so unless there's a chemical incompatibility it's probably pretty forgiving--on aluminum you can just peal it off/out to remove it. Should take a little more force to get things apart, but only a little.

You won't need to use much, because the stuff flows into every little gap with just a thin coat. The only problem I ever had was occasionally not curing, which I always attributed to greasy bearings not being clean enough (harder to get that right with sealed bearings since you don't want to get alcohol past the seals). Rubbing alcohol was usually enough if cleaned thoroughly, though. Just make sure the last wipe off is a clean towel and it has a chance to sit perfectly still long enough to cure. If the bearings are co-axial you should be good to go.

Unless they've changed it, I believe 609 was the original green stuff they developed with Klein for bottom bracket bearings.

[beaterdit]

Is this the green stuff?

I used that on a bearing pocket that was put off spec on an old bike. The bearing would slide freely laterally, the green stuff worked like a charm.

[sfotex]

609 is green. I've used it to bed metal on metal voids before.

[J. Barron DeJong]

FYI, both 609 and 680 are green.

680 is higher viscosity, meant to fill larger gaps - 0.005” vs. 0.015” for 609 and 680. 680 is also higher strength 4000 vs 3000 shear strength.

[beaterdit]

Gotcha. Can’t recall wick one I used but yeah, it worked great.

[skinipenem]

Would someone/WRGplease Clue me in on what WRG is doing with 609 etc.... ? Thx


Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

[toast2266]

Would someone/WRGplease Clue me in on what WRG is doing with 609 etc.... ? Thx!


Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

The guerilla gravity frames have removable headset insert cups that can be flipped to change the reach +/- 10mm. The cups aren't a super tight fit, and over time they start to creak, so he's putting a retaining compound in there to try to silence things.

[skinipenem]

The guerilla gravity frames have removable headset insert cups that can be flipped to change the reach +/- 10mm. The cups aren't a super tight fit, and over time they start to creak, so he's putting a retaining compound in there to try to silence things.

Thank you. I was unaware of retaining compounds.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

[mmmm...pow!]

Also want to grab new matched Fox 34 fork sticker . Slick vs Stikred vs others? I looked at the full Ibis frame logos and such also, but that seems like they would be tough to do and probably not wear well. Anyone try this on their ride?

Go to Etsy and search Fox 34 decals. Many options.

[rideit]

LOL, I actually had large Loc-Tite decals on my Klein Adroit. I thought it was really funny. (1993?)

[XXX-er]

Not all green loctites are the same so watch the green Loctite thing

[jono]

Just gonna clean well with iso and goop some of this stuff in where the cups sit and see what happens. Regular grease makes it quiet for half a ride and then it's super loud and annoying.

Sorry for the double reply here, I just remembered something else: are you planning to install the headset and fork to hold the bearings in their nominal position during cure? 609 cures slow enough to do that.

That's how we used this stuff in the airplane parts: tighter tolerance on the shaft than the pockets, so installing everything and setting the shaft (steerer tube) in the bearings and holding it vertical during cure helped ensure the bearings were co-axial. Might help your fix last a little longer--and maybe your bearings, too.

[rideit]

Not all green loctites are the same so watch the green Loctite thing

Reading is fundamental.

[sfotex]

Not all green loctites are the same so watch the green Loctite thing

https://www.aimsindustrial.com.au/bl...ultimate-guide

[jono]

LOL, I actually had large Loc-Tite decals on my Klein Adroit. I thought it was really funny. (1993?)

Probably? I was thinking a bit later than '93, but I might have been remembering the date of the little tech article I ran across while I was looking into the 609, (late 90's--I found it in 03 or 04).

Hinkel certainly seemed to get more out of the publicity than Klein. Kinda like how Gates' "sexyest" belt division is CarbonDrive.

[XXX-er]

well in case someone sez " use the green "

I used a Green to glue my cranks on the advice of a Locomotive mechanic who said they used the stuff to retain wheel bearings on Trains

I have seen recommended but not tryed " green Loctite " to seep into spoke threads

very different apps so ya read the directions

[rideit]

Fair points.

[east or bust]

GFs bike has developed a rough spot in the drivetrain on Saturday.

Was checking it out this afternoon and there’s one link in the chain that is doing some funky shit through the rear derailleur.

Every other link looks like this:


Problem link (marked red) looks like this:


It also looks visibly tweaked..


She didn’t crash at all this weekend, so not really sure what would have caused it.

What’s the best remedy? Just replace a few links and call it good?

[J. Barron DeJong]

GFs bike has developed a rough spot in the drivetrain on Saturday.

Was checking it out this afternoon and there’s one link in the chain that is doing some funky shit through the rear derailleur.

Every other link looks like this:


Problem link (marked red) looks like this:


It also looks visibly tweaked..


She didn’t crash at all this weekend, so not really sure what would have caused it.

What’s the best remedy? Just replace a few links and call it good?

Looks like a stiff link. Try grabbing the chain at that point and flexing it side to side a few times and see if it loosens up.

[rudy]

GFs bike has developed a rough spot in the drivetrain on Saturday.

Was checking it out this afternoon and there’s one link in the chain that is doing some funky shit through the rear derailleur.

Every other link looks like this:


Problem link (marked red) looks like this:


It also looks visibly tweaked..


She didn’t crash at all this weekend, so not really sure what would have caused it.

What’s the best remedy? Just replace a few links and call it good?

Sometimes you're able to bend the chain sideways at the pin that is binding up and it will loosen it up to pivot as it should. worth a shot and free

[east or bust]

Looks like a stiff link. Try grabbing the chain at that point and flexing it side to side a few times and see if it loosens up.

Sometimes you're able to bend the chain sideways at the pin that is binding up and it will loosen it up to pivot as it should. worth a shot and free

Thanks guys, took two tiny screw drivers and lightly torqued a few links in that area. It's running way smoother now with the chain still holding a slight shape on straight sections between the cassette and chainring. It's overdue for lube so I think that'll get me all the way there.

[toast2266]

Thanks guys, took two tiny screw drivers and lightly torqued a few links in that area. It's running way smoother now with the chain still holding a slight shape on straight sections between the cassette and chainring. It's overdue for lube so I think that'll get me all the way there.

It's probably fine, but take a very close look at it to make sure neither of the outer plates are tweaked out from the rivets. Sometimes that can happen from a hard mis-shift, and then produce a stiff link. And then you loosen up the stiff link like you did, but the link is still damaged, and it'll end up breaking soon-ish.

If everything looks normal and it's running smooth, then ignore this.

[grskier]

Also clean/degrease the chain and relube it once you have it not too stiff in the same area.

[summit]

Not sure this is thread worthy so I'll ask here. I live within pedaling distance of a bike park. Barely rode it this season but would like to change that next year. I'm thinking my current bike ('21 Norco Sight) will be fine if I get a set of DH wheels + tires and swap for park riding.

Is this dumb? Will I thrash the Sight? I'm not terribly hard on my gear, but have cracked both carbon bikes I've owned prior (not from shredding too hard, random stuff like rock strikes and chain suck). Guessing maintenance intervals will be shorter, but that's still cheaper than n+1. If DH wheels on the Sight are the way to go, hit me with some recs.

You are talking about a 160/150 frame and what, 29er config? 35mm stanchions?

Yes a heavier wheelset with burlier tires will help, but your base bike is probably not bike park material despite the Code brakes...

EXCEPT

What bikepark? That matters greatly. BIG deal.

Keystone would eat your bike while Trestle would be OK with the alternate wheelset.

But you are in Boulder which makes me think you are talking about Valmont "Bike Park"

Isn't that just all machine built human powered flow?

You do NOT want a DH bike for that. Your bike should be perfect if you are decent at landing where and how you intend.