Ask the experts

[toast2266]

I think standard Presta holes are metric. 6mm maybe? I'm skeptical it needs drilling. Maybe just needs a different valve?

That aside, if the hole really does need to be a bit bigger, I'd drill it. High quality bit, high rpm, cover the hole with tape to minimize stray fibers, use a drill press, and go kinda slow. It's not a big deal.

[plugboots]

Is there an outdoor temp you wouldn’t want to store your bike below? Assuming it would be sheltered from direct precip


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What specifically are you worried about?
I store my bikes in my very cold garage all winter and I ride a fat bike all winter.
Judging by the recent posts in this thread, if you have Shimano brakes, you should be very worried.

[jm2e]

I think standard Presta holes are metric. 6mm maybe? I'm skeptical it needs drilling. Maybe just needs a different valve?

That aside, if the hole really does need to be a bit bigger, I'd drill it. High quality bit, high rpm, cover the hole with tape to minimize stray fibers, use a drill press, and go kinda slow. It's not a big deal.

Not sure about the metric vs SAE question, but when I use my digital calipers on the rim in question and on two different rims (one DT Swiss and one Spank), they all come out to straight fractions with SAE and funky numbers with mm. I know it's a relatively small sample size, but seems like the two rims that are easy to seat a valve vs the one that isn't is solid science.
Thinking about using this, since I don't have a drill press and I'm worried about a regular bit binding up and splitting the carbon.
https://www.dremel.com/us/en/p/83142-2615083142



Couple different valves for reference.

[Dantheman]

Um, 9/32" is bigger than 1/4". That said, I agree with toast that even in a carbon rim drilling the hole out 1/32" should not be a problem.

[XXX-er]

Is there an outdoor temp you wouldn’t want to store your bike below? Assuming it would be sheltered from direct precip


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the bikes are ok but there are a number of things in the shed i take in, if you lube the chain with Squirt don't let it freeze in the bottle or it will thicken the consistancey, just add water to thin it out in spring

[toast2266]

Thinking about using this, since I don't have a drill press and I'm worried about a regular bit binding up and splitting the carbon.
https://www.dremel.com/us/en/p/83142-2615083142
.

I'd be nervous about using the dremel. Seems like it has the potential to heat things up and melt the epoxy rather than cutting cleanly through it (although I have no personal experience with dremelling carbon with that sort of stone attachment). I'd be more inclined to use a hand drill and a lot of care. Although I'd still be more inclined to find someone with a drill press you could make use of.

[Dantheman]

Is there an outdoor temp you wouldn’t want to store your bike below? Assuming it would be sheltered from direct precip


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There were certain recent(ish) vintages of Shimano brakes where people reported the piston seals leaking in freezing temps. I haven't heard of this issue with DOT brakes. Anything mechanical won't be affected by temperature alone, but depending on where you live prolonged exposure to outdoor humidity could be an issue.

[Dantheman]

I'd be nervous about using the dremel. Seems like it has the potential to heat things up and melt the epoxy rather than cutting cleanly through it (although I have no personal experience with dremelling carbon with that sort of stone attachment). I'd be more inclined to use a hand drill and a lot of care. Although I'd still be more inclined to find someone with a drill press you could make use of.

I'd put that dremel bit in a standard cordless drill and use very low rpms. Grinding seems better than cutting since that's how carbon hacksaw blades work. But, very much agreed on not using it like a normal Dremel job at 10,000 rpm.

[Dee Hubbs]

I have a set of Renyolds. I have to use a something flat and strong to push down on, deform the tubeless valve rubber into their valve hole.
I agree they may be undersized. My rims are older BlackLabel/240's non boost, so they boarderline early/pretubeless.

[sethschmautz]

My Reynolds AR41s are really hard to set up tubeless. I ended up buying a set of Reynolds valves thinking they might seal better against the rim and it seems like they have. I would consider this prior to drilling or grinding anything... Reynolds support is excellent IME. Send them an email - I bet they would help.

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[jm2e]

My Reynolds AR41s are really hard to set up tubeless. I ended up buying a set of Reynolds valves thinking they might seal better against the rim and it seems like they have. I would consider this prior to drilling or grinding anything... Reynolds support is excellent IME. Send them an email - I bet they would help.

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Haha. Their support was "The secret is to use our tape and use our valves". At $17/single valve and $25/roll of tape, plus shipping, I'm going to either take my chances with drilling/grinding, or just keep doing it the way I've been doing it: Pump to 40 at the top of the run and hope the sealant fixes things before I'm running too far on total flat. Usually this results in half a run completely on the CushCore!

[jono]

Haha. Their support was "The secret is to use our tape and use our valves". At $17/single valve and $25/roll of tape, plus shipping, I'm going to either take my chances with drilling/grinding, or just keep doing it the way I've been doing it: Pump to 40 at the top of the run and hope the sealant fixes things before I'm running too far on total flat. Usually this results in half a run completely on the CushCore!

You sound like you want to get all heretical here so I'm just going to encourage that with 2 suggestions: Teflon tape (seems a little optimistic, but why not?) or a nice little bead of RTV--well-cured before touching sealant, of course.

In before XXXer suggests AQS!

[sethschmautz]

Haha. Their support was "The secret is to use our tape and use our valves". At $17/single valve and $25/roll of tape, plus shipping, I'm going to either take my chances with drilling/grinding, or just keep doing it the way I've been doing it: Pump to 40 at the top of the run and hope the sealant fixes things before I'm running too far on total flat. Usually this results in half a run completely on the CushCore!

Bummer. I can't imagine that there is anything special about their tape. Reynolds has gone above and beyond, in my opinion - replacing a fork for me (even though I let them know I was a second owner) that was well out of warranty. I had a little trouble with a couple hubs also and they replaced them - once from a local bike shop's stock when on a road trip. They helped me get back on the trail quickly. I feel better about paying retail when I feel that the company is going to take care of me if I run into issues in the future. Some companies are not like that.

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[evdog]

Has anyone ever tried the extended coverage options offered by vendors like Jenson or Amazon?

Neither reads as being especially bike specific although Jenson's refers to accident protection and mechanical or electrical failure.

3 years on a derailleur? Might be worth trying. I usually get 2 or less out of one if I don't bang it off a rock. Or pedals where the bearings go poopy after only 12 months.

Have they heard of Crank Brothers? lol

[bamboocoreONLY]

I wouldn't do the protection on shimano parts personally. If one breaks, not much of a certainty they'll have another in stock to replace it with. Then you'll be buying a new one anyway.

[Canada1]

Jm2e, I’d buy a brand new bit and tape both sides before drilling. My concern would be lateral fracture or chipping of the epoxy. Alternatively I might just put a 4” segment of a thicker tape over the valve area (Gorilla) to give it a better seat. I’d prefer to exhaust the conservative options before drilling.

Anyone have advice about ride wrap? Doing a bike for the first time tonight and don’t want to botch it.

[Dee Hubbs]

Anyone have advice about ride wrap? Doing a bike for the first time tonight and don’t want to botch it.

If it’s a used bike, clean clean, clean.
Once clean (did I mention clean) use as much soapy water in a spray bottle as you can. You can’t spray too much soapy water on the frame and on the backside of the ride wrap.
This really helps move the pieces to where you want them, and prevents the “stick and peal and re-stick” process that weakens the longevity of the wrap sticking.
When your all done you can use some light heat to help press down the odd curled edge.

Watch a few of their videos.

[Eluder]

Ive used drill bits and and dremels on carbon with no issues. A bit is more likely to grab strands and splinter though. I would get a conical bit that tapers lager than the whole similar to this and quickly hit the hole.



Ride Wrap, watch the videos and set yourself up.

[BigHerm]

Also, spray soapy water on your clean fingertips before peeling/handling the pieces.

[Canada1]

Ride wrap came out nice. Took a lot longer than I anticipated. Thanks for the tips.

[XXX-er]

did you do a bike specific wrap or cut your own ?

I have done my own on the last 3 bikes

[Canada1]

did you do a bike specific wrap or cut your own ?

I have done my own on the last 3 bikes

I bought the fitted kit.

[jm2e]

Follow up.



Used my 1975 single speed Dremel tool and the Silicon Carbide Grinding Bit. Wore a mask and goggles after heeding warning here and elsewhere. Went nice and slow. Took about 1 minute. Valves sit in real nice now. Set up dry with no valve leak. Set up with sealant and holding air x48 hrs now.
I’m not saying I won’t die, but it’s looking unlikely that I’ll die from this.
Appreciate all the input.
If I didn’t follow your advice, it’s not out of a lack of respect. It’s because this was cheap, seemed the lowest chance of catastrophic failure, and allowed me to go it alone.


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[toast2266]

Follow up.
Used my 1975 single speed Dremel tool and the Silicon Carbide Grinding Bit. Wore a mask and goggles after heeding warning here and elsewhere. Went nice and slow. Took about 1 minute. Valves sit in real nice now. Set up dry with no valve leak. Set up with sealant and holding air x48 hrs now.
I’m not saying I won’t die, but it’s looking unlikely that I’ll die from this.
Appreciate all the input.
If I didn’t follow your advice, it’s not out of a lack of respect. It’s because this was cheap, seemed the lowest chance of catastrophic failure, and allowed me to go it alone.

Nice.

Now, since that was a success, think about how much rotating weight you could save if you made all the internal spoke holes twice as big.

[skaredshtles]

Nice.

Now, since that was a success, think about how much rotating weight you could save if you made all the internal spoke holes twice as big.

SPEEDHOLES!!