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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #9476
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    28,435
    If I never shift the 3x8 on my bar-bike, does that make it an SS ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #9477
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,458
    Quote Originally Posted by geomorph View Post
    I used to have a bike set up like that with no derailleurs or chain tensioner. If I remember correctly you need to have the same number of teeth between both combos front and back. I did it with horizontal dropout and had to undo those every time I wanted to switch between trail and street mode but it would be easier with a chain tensioner. Search "dinglespeed", it was a thing at one time.
    I had a dirt jumper set up as a "dinglespeed". It had horizontal drop outs with a really strong QR. 18 tooth rear cog and 30/22 front chainrings.
    The 30-18 had the axle setup slammed at the very front of the horizontal dropouts and the 22-18 had the axle pulled all the way at the back of the dropouts.
    I had a steep hill to climb to get to town. At the base of the hill I would undo the QR, drop the chain to the 22t and pull the axle as far back as it would go, and get back on and pedal up the hill. At the top of the hill I'd bump open the QR, pull the chain onto the 30t and set the axle to the correct tension and pedal on the flats to town.
    I had it down to less than a minute each change.

  3. #9478
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,399
    With all this talk about moving the rear wheel around to adjust chain length, it's worth mentioning that you should make sure whatever frame you get has a brake mount that is cooperative with that sort of thing.

  4. #9479
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    People's Republic of OB
    Posts
    3,479
    Not a question, but some info that might help someone out...

    I got a digital Fox shock pump as trail day swag some years ago. Its internal battery has finally gone dead, and according to Fox this earlier model does not have a replaceable battery and they recommend tossing it out. But that's bullshit. Crack the casing open and its a standard 2032 battery you can pop out and replace, then glue the case back together.

    Just another IFP (inferior Fox product)

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #9480
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Cuntecticut
    Posts
    1,783
    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    Attachment 438342

    White Industries ENO hub and Dinglespeed 17/19 freewheel.



    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    this.

    i had a surly cross chek setup fixed/free for a while, with the fixed side having a dingle-cog setup. i could spin from my apartment on the road, commute, etc. in the higher, and then once i got to the trails i was willing to try on a fixed cross bike setup, swap to the lower.

    it was really dumb. but really fun.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  6. #9481
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Evergreen Co
    Posts
    779
    Anyone have commentary on the durability of the RaceFace vault hubs?

    i tend to do DT or i9 but there is a cheap used build of Vault hubs to 3zeroMoto rims Iím tempted to try. Hubs give me pause.

  7. #9482
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,399
    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Anyone have commentary on the durability of the RaceFace vault hubs?

    i tend to do DT or i9 but there is a cheap used build of Vault hubs to 3zeroMoto rims Iím tempted to try. Hubs give me pause.
    I'm on year 4 on a set of next r wheels with vault hubs. Hubs have been solid - bearings are still smooth, and the pawls rarely miss. Only real downside is that they're definitely one of the slower rolling hubs I've owned. I think raceface opted for better seals at the expense of more drag.

  8. #9483
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    10,392
    I’ve had no issues with my Vaults. They’re on my Ragley hardtail, less than 4,000 miles fwiw.

  9. #9484
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Van
    Posts
    3,642
    I had some Vaults in 2020 where the rear hub shell started creaking. It is a two-piece assembly that is pressed together, which was the source of the noise. Race Face warrantied it, but I sold the bike before I could see if it happened again.

    But Iím now on a Turbine SL that Iíve been running for almost a year on my hardtail, and there has been no creaking issue with that one.

    You can see if itís creaking by torquing the cassette with a chain whip, with the wheel removed from the bike.

  10. #9485
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Evergreen Co
    Posts
    779
    Thanks for the feedback!

    Iím always a bit slow to trust new hubs but sounds like theyíre durable enough.

  11. #9486
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    899
    Trying to get wife back on a bike. Decent rider, but has had a couple of proper crashes and is not going fast and/or especially steep/rough. Bike should be both reasonably efficient, fun on flatter / rolling terrain, but still have enough travel and geo to make here feel "safe" in any rougher sections. Price matters as she'll probably ride it 10 times a year, or something like that.

    A have a lead on a good price on a well regarded enduro frame, but I think it has more travel and is slacker than she needs. Probably more bike than she needs overall, but most complete 150mm-trail bikes with the geo I'm looking for is probably going to cost more than it's worth with here expected use frequency. The sizing is good.

    I'm considering building it up with a 160mm fork and a +0,5 or +1 angleset instead of the 170mm fork. And probably a 57,5 or 60mm stroke shock instead of the 62,5 it's specced with. Hopefully this will make a build that's reasonably fun on rolling terrain, but still with some reserves.
    The only negative geo changes would be a slightly lower BB and stack from the fork, but the BB will be lifted slightly by the steeper fork and I can use a riser or spacers to get it higher. A slightly lower stack would probably be good anyhow for the terrain. Less travel should also eliminate a couple of mm of sag.

    Is there any reason to not do this from a technical point of view?

    Don't need suggestions for trail bikes etc. Got that alternative covered - and it's absolutely an option, just wondering if this alternative is technically sound. Yes, I'm aware that this is overcomplicating a simple thing, but I'm only able to ski in the weekends - so I have most evenings free to ponder these thing.

  12. #9487
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,399
    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Trying to get wife back on a bike. Decent rider, but has had a couple of proper crashes and is not going fast and/or especially steep/rough. Bike should be both reasonably efficient, fun on flatter / rolling terrain, but still have enough travel and geo to make here feel "safe" in any rougher sections. Price matters as she'll probably ride it 10 times a year, or something like that.

    A have a lead on a good price on a well regarded enduro frame, but I think it has more travel and is slacker than she needs. Probably more bike than she needs overall, but most complete 150mm-trail bikes with the geo I'm looking for is probably going to cost more than it's worth with here expected use frequency. The sizing is good.

    I'm considering building it up with a 160mm fork and a +0,5 or +1 angleset instead of the 170mm fork. And probably a 57,5 or 60mm stroke shock instead of the 62,5 it's specced with. Hopefully this will make a build that's reasonably fun on rolling terrain, but still with some reserves.
    The only negative geo changes would be a slightly lower BB and stack from the fork, but the BB will be lifted slightly by the steeper fork and I can use a riser or spacers to get it higher. A slightly lower stack would probably be good anyhow for the terrain. Less travel should also eliminate a couple of mm of sag.

    Is there any reason to not do this from a technical point of view?

    Don't need suggestions for trail bikes etc. Got that alternative covered - and it's absolutely an option, just wondering if this alternative is technically sound. Yes, I'm aware that this is overcomplicating a simple thing, but I'm only able to ski in the weekends - so I have most evenings free to ponder these thing.
    To me, this sounds like she's a great candidate for a 3-4 year old enduro bike with 27.5 wheels. They tend to be a little steeper and a little smaller, but they still have all of the travel and they're new enough that the specs are still modern (and compatible with current standards). And they're cheap.

  13. #9488
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    899

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    To me, this sounds like she's a great candidate for a 3-4 year old enduro bike with 27.5 wheels. They tend to be a little steeper and a little smaller, but they still have all of the travel and they're new enough that the specs are still modern (and compatible with current standards). And they're cheap.
    Thatís a very good way to describe my intention with the build. And an easier and cheaper solution as well. Been on the lookout for a previous gen Slash or something similar.

    Problem is that the market for used bikes in that category/size is very, very small around here. And since I donít service suspension myself, costs tend to add up

  14. #9489
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Can/USA
    Posts
    1,534
    Stubborn shimano HG cassette help?? Swapping wheels over for a buddy and I cannot get this cassette off. Snapped my chain whip ( cheap one) and the thing wonít move. Is the answer simply more leverage ( and higher quality tools)

    Cleaned it as best I could, donít see anything obviously wrong?


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  15. #9490
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    2,506
    Are you unable to remove the lockring or to slide the cassette off of the body? If it's the former, the kind of lockring tool with the guide that fits into the hub and a big ass wrench should do it. If it's the latter, your freehub body is likely notched, on which case you'll need to bang it around a bunch until the cassette cogs release.Name:  keZ79.jpeg
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    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  16. #9491
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Can/USA
    Posts
    1,534
    Canít get the lock ring offÖ. I have the right tool, like you posted below and a big wrench, with a chain whip and just couldnít get it to move at all! Yes I was turning it the right way. Iíve never had a cassette this stubborn.


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  17. #9492
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    33,736
    These 'might' help, combined with a bench vise.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by rideit; 01-15-2023 at 12:23 PM.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  18. #9493
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,340
    Could drop some pb blaster on the lock ring threads overnight, then a bunch more leverage tomorrow is what Iíd do. Have never had that much trouble getting one off myself though


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  19. #9494
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    1,004
    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    Can’t get the lock ring off…. I have the right tool, like you posted below and a big wrench, with a chain whip and just couldn’t get it to move at all! Yes I was turning it the right way. I’ve never had a cassette this stubborn.
    Chainwhip, lockring tool, very big wrench, a friend and a sledgehammer.

  20. #9495
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Can/USA
    Posts
    1,534
    All good advice, thanks fellas! After the new chain whip arrives I will advise


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  21. #9496
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
    Posts
    3,736
    What freehub now? Sploded mine this morning. 11sp, shitmano. On an E fat bike so sees a bit more power through it than an acoustic bike.

  22. #9497
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    33,736
    I can’t really think of anything stronger than a replacement XT level HG freehub, TBH.
    Maybe a Hadley hub?
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

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