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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4901
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    3,630
    That seems complicated. Measure the hose length you need. Hold the hose up in the air like at eye level and cut with an appropriate tool. Put in the olive and thread in the lever while still holding it upright. Works for me 100% of the time.

  2. #4902
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
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    8,991
    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    How hard was the Mezzer service? Any documentation or videos to watch? I need to do this.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    Manitou is good about documentation but thereís really nothing to it. As with a pike etc, takes 10 mins. I prefer to do most of procedure with bike flipped upside down. Pro tip for any fork: remove that circular wire spring from the dust seals and let em sit on the top of stanchions. Makes it easier to slide the lowers back on w/o damaging the dust seals.

  3. #4903
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    416
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    That seems complicated. Measure the hose length you need. Hold the hose up in the air like at eye level and cut with an appropriate tool. Put in the olive and thread in the lever while still holding it upright. Works for me 100% of the time.
    x2, this works. I like that pads idea -very clever but it seems like moving them even just a miniscule amount would spooge out brake fluid across your garage. I just cut and reattach, and never have to bleed.

  4. #4904
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,509
    x3^ Cut and hold hose vertical. Press in barb olive while holding vertical.
    Hold lever vertical while removing the cut hose.
    Put 2 pieces together without dripping any fluid.
    They replaced Kate Courtneyís brake lever mid race a few weeks ago without a bleed.

  5. #4905
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Bethel, Maine
    Posts
    1,090
    So if my tire generally holds air between rides and on trail rides but magically went from 22ish to 4ish PSI in four hours of lift served, what's that suggest? I need to learn how to ride so I stop pushing the bead out of place? Start with more pressure?

    (New to tubeless on a bicycle)

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app

  6. #4906
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    1,531
    XT rear derailer, 8100. Less than half a season on it. Seemed to freeze through part of it’s range so no tension in highest gears. Sprayed it all down with degreaser, slick honeyed the clutch and now it is like new. I’ve never had anything like this before, but clutch derailers are newer to me. What do I need to do on the go forward to keep this from happening again? I’ve told him to only use the clutch when descending.

  7. #4907
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    BC to CO
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    Shimano clutch grease only on those clutches. Anything else will make that derailleur to crap out.

  8. #4908
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    846
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Shimano clutch grease only on those clutches. Anything else will make that derailleur to crap out.
    Yup. I put regular lithium grease on my 11-SLX clutch and it totally burned up within 250 miles.

  9. #4909
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    24,254
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Shimano clutch grease only on those clutches. Anything else will make that derailleur to crap out.
    thats interesting, I serviced probably hundreds of printers with spragg clutches

    clean & grease with # 23 grease or replace if you had them, I would go into Canadian airlines with a pocket full
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #4910
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Three-O-Three
    Posts
    14,651
    Quote Originally Posted by Canada1 View Post
    XT rear derailer, 8100. Less than half a season on it. Seemed to freeze through part of it’s range so no tension in highest gears. Sprayed it all down with degreaser, slick honeyed the clutch and now it is like new. I’ve never had anything like this before, but clutch derailers are newer to me. What do I need to do on the go forward to keep this from happening again? I’ve told him to only use the clutch when descending.
    Get it warrantied and hope you get a replacement that doesn't have the same issue.

  11. #4911
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
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    They all have issues. Itís now a standard practice to open all Shimano clutch derailleur and service them.
    Shimano is aware of the issue . They changed the grease 16 months ago, their official stance is the added demands of the 12 speed derailleur is whatís causing the clutch failures, but many in the industry believe itís the new grease formula, or the quantity of grease applied to the new 12 clutches.

  12. #4912
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    24,254
    So what do they look like on inspection and how does a good one compare to a bad one ??
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #4913
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    389
    Not my photo, but my 8100 derailleur clutch looked just like this after only about 40 miles and three or so gentle washings (no pressure washer). Bone dry and didnít shift well at all.

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  14. #4914
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
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    1,524
    Quote Originally Posted by g_man80 View Post
    Not my photo, but my 8100 derailleur clutch looked just like this after only about 40 miles and three or so gentle washings (no pressure washer). Bone dry and didnít shift well at all.

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    That could be my photo from way earlier in this thread. Shimano replaced the der with no questions and the new one looks great. I now service then regularly with the special grease.

    Sent from my SM-G970U1 using TGR Forums mobile app
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  15. #4915
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Van
    Posts
    3,511
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    On my new (to me) bike, the threads for the cable guide bolt on the Fox 36 fork are stripped. Iím thinking it should be simple to helicoil it as a fix, but wondering if anyone else has tried that and how that turned out, or if anyone has a better suggestion?
    Itís not taking a ton of force. Could you try something like epoxy and steelwool to tighten the fit, in addition to the longer bolt suggestion?

  16. #4916
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
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    9,312
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Shimano clutch grease only on those clutches. Anything else will make that derailleur to crap out.
    This stuff? Not in stock anywhere.

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    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  17. #4917
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    This stuff? Not in stock anywhere.
    Yep that stuff, and yep not in stock.
    Take a small ziplock to your local shop and ask for a small dollop of it, it will last you forever.
    Last edited by Dee Hubbs; 06-13-2021 at 08:35 AM.

  18. #4918
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    389
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Yep that stuff, and yep not in stock.
    Take a small ziplock to your local shop and ask for a small dollop of it, it will last you forever.
    If anyone in the SLC area needs some, I have a small tub of it.

  19. #4919
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    yeah its always red rust in failing spragg clutches even in printers that had just sat on an office desk
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #4920
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    416
    Is there truly no substitute for that grease? It's not like Shimano makes grease, they buy it from some outfit that makes industrial lubricants. And I doubt they would develop a clutch system that also required a new lubricant to be invented just to make it work, that seems pretty dumb to this guy.

  21. #4921
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    24,254
    One could read the specs and see what type of grease it is
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #4922
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,509
    Originally they spec'd Shimano Internal Hub Grease Y04120800, and then they changed the spec to Shimano Grease for Shadow RD+ Rear Derailleur Y04121000.
    The original Internal Hub Grease is in stock in most places on line.

  23. #4923
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    1,817
    My rear dropouts have these rear facing threaded holes. What are they for? Bike is a litespeed t5g.

  24. #4924
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    30,473
    Drillium
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  25. #4925
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    8,582
    Well now there's an expert answer. Take that one to the bank.

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