Page 195 of 222 FirstFirst ... 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 ... LastLast
Results 4,851 to 4,875 of 5545

Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4851
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,729
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Sram GX 10 Speed Short Cage on my DH bike to replace a GX DH derailleur.
    Any reason I shouldn't do this? $60 for one vs $120 plus very hard to source for the other. Current derailleur is bend like a motherfucker, but still hanging in there. Just thinking forward during these sparse times.
    I believe the 10 speed stuff is "exact actuation" and the newer stuff (including gx dh) is "x-actuation." Which is sram's way of saying they have different cable pull ratios.

  2. #4852
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    14,205
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Nice. And good luck in the race! I've got a friend or two that're heading over for it. Should be a good time.
    Thanks. Probably the heaviest competition of the year outside an EWS. Super stacked field. I was putting down some fast times this past weekend. Just need to maintain that pace, keep the rubber down, and pray it doesn't rain too much. Those off cambers roots on the stuff mid mountain is nightmare fuel if it's raining.

  3. #4853
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Bethel, Maine
    Posts
    1,086
    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    Would probably be just for a DH (we have no DH racing here, I want beer league DH culture, and I'm better at organizing things than I am at racing so I'm trying to figure out how to put it on.)

    I'm happy to just do it the watches/clipboard way, but like, we have so much great technology available. NFC chips are so cheap and simple. I'm no programmer, but I feel like it shouldn't be that hard to make it happen?

    For Eldelredo: I'd probably sew up velcro bracelets with the chip in them. There are options like this that are already in a button form factor. From there, I'd just need an app that logs the time of each scan, along with the chip's "name" to a spreadsheet. Easy enough from there to use Excel functions to spit out the delta in time between scans. Right? Or am I an idiot?

    Having someone scanning at the top, and another at the bottom with an iPhone, seems a lot simpler and more streamlined than stopwatches to me, but maybe it's not. IDK, I may fuck around and buy some chips and experiment. I'd really like to have a timing system for both bike racing, and the occasional DIY skimo race in the winter. For some reason we do not compete enough doing fun things in the mountains here in the Tetons IMO.

    EDIT: I think I figured it out. This app if anyone is wondering. I'll give it a test in a week or so.
    Note that the app blog post (admittedly from 2015) indicates that the racer needs to pretty much touch the NFC token to the phone reading it and get an audible beep. That's either a significant additional challenge for your racers or a show-stopper, IMO.

    Speaking as a computer geek who was a USAC official for a while and has worked road races with everything from clipboards and stopwatches to pro timing companies running video and picking up racer numbers from it, I'd want to have stopwatches and clipboards as a backup if I was using a chip-based solution.

    I'm also a ski-race official (and coach), and I've seen our automated systems—which are a start wand and photocell hooked up to electronic TOD-recording devices and then to a computer—fail for a variety of reasons, at which point we go back to...wait for it...clipboards and stopwatches (and then calculate an offset from the stopwatch TOD to the electronic TOD to hopefully wash out the human reaction time as well as any offset between the TOD set on the devices). Even with a higher-end chip-based system, as an official, I'd really want a human with a clipboard recording bib numbers as they come across the line, and having a stopwatch as well would seem to be a good idea.

  4. #4854
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Driggs
    Posts
    325
    Quote Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum View Post

    Speaking as a computer geek who was a USAC official for a while and has worked road races with everything from clipboards and stopwatches to pro timing companies running video and picking up racer numbers from it, I'd want to have stopwatches and clipboards as a backup if I was using a chip-based solution.
    Good info, thanks!

    The last enduro I raced before the pandemic required racers to touch a reader at the beginning and end of every stage and I didn't feel like it was a huge imposition at all, but yeah, will figure out some kind of manual backup for timing for sure.

  5. #4855
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    8,961
    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    Thx, I was leaning toward a new headset as the solution. Probably Cane Creek 40. You’ve given me hope

    The upper bearing has an OD of 31.8, so I guess I’m
    Looking for an IS42 upper assembly. The lower bearing is marked 36/45 degrees, which I think means the frame/bearing interface is 36 degrees.
    Turns out FSA uses a stupid ‘Italian standard’ 36 degree crown race. Anyway I bought a complete cane creek IS 42 / IS 52 integrated hell bender 70 headset…installed it…and the front end is still creaking somewhere near the headset/fork area. It’s stumped the LBS too. My next move is to dunk the entire bike in a deep fat fryer.

  6. #4856
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    24,197
    Noise can be hard to find and it could be anything

    back in the day a couple of us shot an intermittent noise bug on a bike , replaced stuff to no avail

    on the 3rd time in the shop the other guy found a SLIGHTLY loose QR on the rear wheel
    ever so often the rear wheel would slip in the dropouts and click

    good luck!
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #4857
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    9,645
    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    My next move is to dunk the entire bike in a deep fat fryer.
    Tenative dibs on the chain...depending of course on your chain maintenance protocol.

  8. #4858
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    13,041
    Wondering if i need a new derailleur hanger or maybe theres an adapter? Switched from 11spd 11-46 full xt to 12 spd 10-51 shimano. The cage on the der rubs on the 51 with b tension screwed all the way in . Chain is as short as it will go. Thinking 12spd must need a long der hanger?

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  9. #4859
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    9,306

    Ask the experts

    You got the B screw stop in place? If the B screw is pushing directly against the frame, you need to remove the mech and spin the stop so that it’s between the screw and the frame.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  10. #4860
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    13,041
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    You got the B screw stop in place? If the B screw is pushing directly against the frame, you need to remove the mech and spin the stop so that it’s between the screw and the frame.
    Oh that could be it/fingers crossed. Ill check in the morning. Thanks

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  11. #4861
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    bestcoast
    Posts
    1,802
    shimano 12spd chain setup shouldn't be super short either... https://dansbikeblog.com/article/how...eed-drivetrain

  12. #4862
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    13,041
    Quote Originally Posted by t.odd View Post
    shimano 12spd chain setup shouldn't be super short either... https://dansbikeblog.com/article/how...eed-drivetrain
    Thanks.Looks like i had the length right the first go. Took 4 out after the initial install to try and get that top pulley and cage away from the 50t , after i had the b tension all the way in.
    Going to add the 4 back in and look at this b tension setup now

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  13. #4863
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    2,852
    This is a bit silly but sounding like an idiot has never stopped me before: what's the secret to avoid hitting trees with wide bars?

    I ran 760 mm bars on my previous bike and occasionally nailed an aspen on the old school tight trails in Park City. The Occam came with 780 and I've really liked the handling of the wider bars but I've been clipping trees with an alarming frequency, and not always in tight terrain. The other day I put my bars into a big old pine in LCC when there was nothing pushing me toward it. I thought I had inches to spare but somehow bounced off the trunk hard enough that I barely stayed on the bike. It mashed the knuckle of my left pinkie into oblivion, leaving a nice hole that is now getting whipped by every passing branch. Yesterday I brushed 2 aspens at speed and thought I was toast.
    I know not to focus on the obstacle and look past it but I must unconsciously focus on the tree at the last second and drift into it. I'm always closer than I think and even when the bars clear I've brushed trunks with the back of my shoulder or the my pack.

    I'd prefer not to cut my bars so for now I've added a thin strip of tape on the outside of the grip to force my hand in a bit (tape is slippery and I naturally slide my hand away from it) to at least protect the fingers. Am I the only idiot who's incapable of keeping his bars from trees? What's you guys secret to avoid nailing inanimate objects?
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  14. #4864
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,729
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    This is a bit silly but sounding like an idiot has never stopped me before: what's the secret to avoid hitting trees with wide bars?

    I ran 760 mm bars on my previous bike and occasionally nailed an aspen on the old school tight trails in Park City. The Occam came with 780 and I've really liked the handling of the wider bars but I've been clipping trees with an alarming frequency, and not always in tight terrain. The other day I put my bars into a big old pine in LCC when there was nothing pushing me toward it. I thought I had inches to spare but somehow bounced off the trunk hard enough that I barely stayed on the bike. It mashed the knuckle of my left pinkie into oblivion, leaving a nice hole that is now getting whipped by every passing branch. Yesterday I brushed 2 aspens at speed and thought I was toast.
    I know not to focus on the obstacle and look past it but I must unconsciously focus on the tree at the last second and drift into it. I'm always closer than I think and even when the bars clear I've brushed trunks with the back of my shoulder or the my pack.

    I'd prefer not to cut my bars so for now I've added a thin strip of tape on the outside of the grip to force my hand in a bit (tape is slippery and I naturally slide my hand away from it) to at least protect the fingers. Am I the only idiot who's incapable of keeping his bars from trees? What's you guys secret to avoid nailing inanimate objects?
    Just gotta cut those trees down. All trails should have an 8' corridor.

    But yeah, there aren't really any tricks. That's why a bunch of the EWS guys run relatively narrow bars. Also why a bunch of those guys run moto handguards / bark busters. Personally, I do neither of those things and just deal with clipping my bars occasionally.

  15. #4865
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    30,446
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    What's you guys secret to avoid nailing inanimate objects?
    Stay far away from the morgue, you necropheliac weirdo!
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  16. #4866
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    14,161
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    I'd prefer not to cut my bars so for now I've added a thin strip of tape on the outside of the grip to force my hand in a bit (tape is slippery and I naturally slide my hand away from it) to at least protect the fingers.
    This feels like the wrong strategy. If may protect your fingers a little but now you have more bar hanging out there that your brain isn't intuitively aware of. I prefer to have my hand slightly overhanging the end of the bar.

  17. #4867
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    24,197
    i always wear crash pads, wrist to past the elbow which allow me to glance off trees or whatever, knee or elbow pads gota have a sleeve + straps to stay in place when you crash, I'm rocking some 661 2x4's from back in the day

    slow down so you can move the bars sideways to slide between the trees
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #4868
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    2,852
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    This feels like the wrong strategy. If may protect your fingers a little but now you have more bar hanging out there that your brain isn't intuitively aware of. I prefer to have my hand slightly overhanging the end of the bar.
    Mostly it helps me see how I like narrower bars. I'm probably running the equivalent of a 770 with the tape, if it doesn't bother me I'll cut the bars.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  19. #4869
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    14,205
    I have been running bark busters/VC guards for about a month. Lots of hate. Most people don't run them. I could care less. Hit a tree at close to 40mph and don't go down/break your hand? Do that once and you are sold. I tested mine at Silver last weekend.

  20. #4870
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    993
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    This feels like the wrong strategy. If may protect your fingers a little but now you have more bar hanging out there that your brain isn't intuitively aware of. I prefer to have my hand slightly overhanging the end of the bar.
    This. I have my hands right on the edge of the bar and almost never (like once or twice a year) hit anything, and when I do it's just a graze. The few times I've messed around with different bar widths by sliding grips and brakes inboard while leaving bar sticking out, I was tagging stuff left and right just with 10mm sticking out past the grips/hands.

  21. #4871
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    4,498
    Move your controls (levers, shifter, remote) inboard a 1/4-1/2”


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  22. #4872
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    13,041
    I occasionally rub a tree but thats just getting greedy on the inside. I think youll just get used to where your hands are. You brain might be still thinking 760 on occasion

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  23. #4873
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    In a van... down by the river
    Posts
    7,595
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Am I the only idiot who's incapable of keeping his bars from trees? What's you guys secret to avoid nailing inanimate objects?
    I was gonna say yes, but apparently, from the subsequent responses, you're not.

  24. #4874
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    1,214
    Anybody have a good strategy for getting the inside line on in stock bikes? I've noticed a few "owners" Facebook groups for specific brands where shops from all over the country will post up when they have a popular bike in stock. If I can track down a V2 Sentinel or Stumpy Evo I'd probably jump on it. I hate Facebook, but it's the most efficient option I've found so far.

  25. #4875
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Driggs
    Posts
    325
    Quote Originally Posted by North View Post
    Anybody have a good strategy for getting the inside line on in stock bikes? I've noticed a few "owners" Facebook groups for specific brands where shops from all over the country will post up when they have a popular bike in stock. If I can track down a V2 Sentinel or Stumpy Evo I'd probably jump on it. I hate Facebook, but it's the most efficient option I've found so far.
    The Facebook groups are pretty solid in my experience. Another strategy is to use the "dealer finder" function on the brand's website and just start calling dealers. Most of them won't be allowed to ship you a bike, but if you can find a friend (or a maggot) in that area who can go in and take delivery, and then bike flight it to you, you could be in luck.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •