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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4626
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Was it a chill/manageable amount of people, or was it a shit-show?
    I would say chill compared to other races. They limit the size and it is all expert level riders, lots of pros. The heavy drinking can be avoided if you have a semblance of self control.

  2. #4627
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    This will be my 7th race of the season and I've been training since last Oct. Hoping to feel pretty strong. Still no good place to replicate that much vert in one lap (Silver Mtn maybe?)
    Silver's decent for that sort of thing. Race pace top to bottom laps are still 10-15 minutes, with options for more pedaling or more forearm abuse.

  3. #4628
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Was it a chill/manageable amount of people, or was it a shit-show?
    Everything I have seen looks pretty mellow. Would love to hear more input from simple.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/news/video-...orte-2019.html

  4. #4629
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    What's the question? I would do it again but not as a race. My friends who used the guide service in Oaxaca agreed. That way you get better food, transport, and lodging conditions.

    No way I would sleep in a dorm and be stuffed on a bus with a bunch of international travelers right now. We had a flu strain go around at that 2019 race that made a few people sick and they couldn't finish the race. With Covid19? Fuck that. (Note I have zero idea what the TSN protocols for that are in 2021)
    Last edited by simple; 05-24-2021 at 09:29 AM.

  5. #4630
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    You want to keep the Shimano cassette and chain together, that’s where the magic of HG+ shifting happens. Before buying an HG compatible chainring, try a SRAM eagle masterlink, that is where the ‘grinding’ sound usually comes from.
    Yeah, tried the SRAM link to no avail. I think it's a combo of being incompatible and well-worn.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  6. #4631
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    Debated putting this in the NE thread, but context goes best here.

    What lenses are best for east coast summer canopy/deep woods?

    I broke/heavily scratched (and now can't find) my Smith Rose Chromapop lenses on my aging Arenas. I'm looking for a replacement sunglass lenses with similar characteristics, which I wouldn't call low-light/clear. I already have a pair of Oakley Prizm Trails and find they're still way to tinted/dark and built for California "trails" not east coast woods, though they are great on the road.

    Any opinions, again probably primarily from East Coasters who only see the sun on road rides or very briefly during summer mountain bike rides. Also add that humidity is ridiculously high, so relatively well vented is another consideration.

  7. #4632
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    I really, really like the revant replacement lenses, there is an ‘orange-ish’ polychromatic lens that is absolutely perfect for what you are describing.
    However, it looks like your Arenas are too old, so this is for other lens shoppers.

    https://www.revantoptics.com/
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  8. #4633
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    Ask the experts

    This is a prescription lens in a FLAK 2.0 from Oakley, I believe it’s a prism rose lens, really lightweight and never fog. I love these in the woods, no matter how dark and dank.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    crab in my shoe mouth

  9. #4634
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    Have a what bike question for the experts in here.

    Toying with the idea of building up a hardtail, not in a hurry as this will mostly be used for the winter months. I've also realized that most of the trails I ride locally are more xc and/or flow oriented and would be more entertaining on a hardtail. So what frame am I looking for? I'm not looking for a hardcore hardtail, but don't want a super skittish 71* hta xc race bike, something in the middle I guess. Feels like a ~120mm travel fork and ~68ish degree hta would be about right. Ideally I'd like to be able to run it as a single speed also, so either sliding drop outs or PF30 BB. Maybe even do a little bike packing with it. Boost spacing would be a plus too so I could share wheels with my Fuel Ex, but not required.

    Oh yeah, I'm not a dentist, more on the 34 year old dirtbag that's decided to finally go to college program so something cheap and/or something to keep an eye out for used would be a bonus.

  10. #4635
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    Thanks for lense suggestions, and realized I didn't phrase it totally accurately. I'm not necessarily looking to find a specific replacement lenses for my Arena, but other types/modern of the same genre. Kicking around getting new Smiths or others and before doing so would be good to know what else works. I'll have to see if I can find the prizm rose as well buttah.

    For the hardtail, there's another HT thread started recently where there are some good suggestions. The SS-able list in that would be more recent Kona Honzo, SC Chameleon Alu, 2020+ Specialized Fuse, and 2020 or 2021 Salsa Timberjack which has an SS build all in non dentist prices. Chameleons in particular are going for COVID $$ from what I've seen.

  11. #4636
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    Quote Originally Posted by s_squatch View Post
    Have a what bike question for the experts in here.

    Toying with the idea of building up a hardtail, not in a hurry as this will mostly be used for the winter months. I've also realized that most of the trails I ride locally are more xc and/or flow oriented and would be more entertaining on a hardtail. So what frame am I looking for? I'm not looking for a hardcore hardtail, but don't want a super skittish 71* hta xc race bike, something in the middle I guess. Feels like a ~120mm travel fork and ~68ish degree hta would be about right. Ideally I'd like to be able to run it as a single speed also, so either sliding drop outs or PF30 BB. Maybe even do a little bike packing with it. Boost spacing would be a plus too so I could share wheels with my Fuel Ex, but not required.

    Oh yeah, I'm not a dentist, more on the 34 year old dirtbag that's decided to finally go to college program so something cheap and/or something to keep an eye out for used would be a bonus.
    Without any specific recommendations, here are my thoughts:

    - get a steel frame. Aluminum is too stiff and will beat you up. Carbon rides nice but is expensive. Also, lower end steel frames (i.e. Surly) are gonna be just as stiff as aluminum.

    - go slacker than you think with the headtube angle. As the fork sags, the head angle only gets steeper. Personally, I wouldn't go steeper than 66°.

    - the fork is your only suspension. Having a bit more travel up front is nice if you're not concerned with the bike being an xc race weapon. I think somewhere around 140mm is the sweet spot.

    - while a hardtail is definitely a different beast, geometry that's roughly similar to your trail bike will make switching back and forth easier, and ultimately more fun.

    - keep an eye on rear tire clearance. I'm more inclined to run fatter tires on the hardtail than on a regular trail bike.

  12. #4637
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    I wore the smith rose lenses for a long, long time mtb riding. Now I have some photochromics that I'm pretty happy with (oakley jawbreakers). They don't get dark enough for riding out in the open in bright sun but are good for in the trees and cloudy days and evenings. They get clear enough to leave on in the dark but not completely clear so they're not my pick for night riding. I suppose the other complaint could be that when it is bright, and you're in and out of trees, they could possibly be lighter. It takes awhile for them to get clear again.

  13. #4638
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    I am running these with the Amber lens (29% VLT). Great in full sun or playing speeder bike in the dense forest. The Zeiss lenses have the highest clarity I have experienced compared to Smith and Oakley.

    https://melonoptics.com/shop/alleycat/

  14. #4639
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Thanks for lense suggestions, and realized I didn't phrase it totally accurately. I'm not necessarily looking to find a specific replacement lenses for my Arena, but other types/modern of the same genre. Kicking around getting new Smiths or others and before doing so would be good to know what else works. I'll have to see if I can find the prizm rose as well buttah.

    .
    I think that was clear, (heh), I just wanted to throw out what has been working for me that a lot of people might not know about.
    Good luck!
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  15. #4640
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    I am going to disagree with toast on point 1. You should be running a 2.4-2.6" rear tire tubeless at <25PSI, the extra weight of steel will be much more noticeable than any vibration damping. Non dentisit hardtails should be aluminum. Read the pinkbike fieldtest for some insights. Geo wise ~66 is great, reach extends as a hardtail sags so you can go a bit shorter than a FS. You will want a dropper. If you don't use faster tires than your FS there is no point, I like a semi slick with big side knobs on the back of my nukeproof scout, which is a good option but not SS compatible.

    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Without any specific recommendations, here are my thoughts:

    - get a steel frame. Aluminum is too stiff and will beat you up. Carbon rides nice but is expensive. Also, lower end steel frames (i.e. Surly) are gonna be just as stiff as aluminum.

    - go slacker than you think with the headtube angle. As the fork sags, the head angle only gets steeper. Personally, I wouldn't go steeper than 66°.

    - the fork is your only suspension. Having a bit more travel up front is nice if you're not concerned with the bike being an xc race weapon. I think somewhere around 140mm is the sweet spot.

    - while a hardtail is definitely a different beast, geometry that's roughly similar to your trail bike will make switching back and forth easier, and ultimately more fun.

    - keep an eye on rear tire clearance. I'm more inclined to run fatter tires on the hardtail than on a regular trail bike.

  16. #4641
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Thanks for lense suggestions, and realized I didn't phrase it totally accurately. I'm not necessarily looking to find a specific replacement lenses for my Arena, but other types/modern of the same genre. Kicking around getting new Smiths or others and before doing so would be good to know what else works. I'll have to see if I can find the prizm rose as well buttah.
    Not east coast, but I ride mostly in the woods here in CA. I've got a pair of Smith Squad goggles with their Chromapop Contrast Rose lenses, and Oakley Flight Jacket glasses with Prizm rose lenses. They both work great in the woods, but I think I like the Smith lens a bit better for some reason that I can't put my finger on. Everything just seems a bit clearer and sharper. For night or dense fog riding I just use clear.

  17. #4642
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlh View Post
    I am going to disagree with toast on point 1. You should be running a 2.4-2.6" rear tire tubeless at <25PSI, the extra weight of steel will be much more noticeable than any vibration damping. Non dentisit hardtails should be aluminum.
    I think you're overstating the weight difference between aluminum and steel. Good quality steel isn't all that much heavier than aluminum, but it definitely gives a smoother ride. There's a reason almost every high end hardtail is either carbon or steel - I can't think of a high end aluminum hardtail. But unlike carbon, decent quality steel hardtails can be had for reasonable prices.

  18. #4643
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    Thanks for the input! I guess I should have been a little more specific with background and goals for this bike. When I'm actually fit, FTP typically hovers around 4.3 W/kg. Managed to ride close to 4500 miles last year with a pretty even mix of gravel/dropbar bike and singletrack. I want this bike to lean more heavily towards the xc side of the spectrum, If I want to ride a ~140 travel trail bike I'd take my Fuel Ex. This summer is a bit of mess for me, taking a couple classes and kiddo was born ~4 weeks ago, so that's really taking up all my free time, but have plenty of opportunities to think about what bike to add to the stable. Looking forward to next summer I'd like to hit most of the events of the NW epic series on SS. Previously I've owned both a gen 1 Highball al, and transition transam 26. didn't mind the ride quality of the Al frame even with a 2.1 rear tire. honestly couldn't tell a difference between the steel and Al. Hated the 71* degree head angle and fox 32 on it. Had my worst mtb crash on that thing, front end was so effing nervous.

    I really like the look of that BMC twostroke Al, except I'd have to run a chain tensioner. Is there something like that out there with a PF30 BB?

  19. #4644
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    Quote Originally Posted by s_squatch View Post
    Is there something like that out there with a PF30 BB?
    Isn't part of the point of buying a hardtail to have less creaks?

  20. #4645
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Isn't part of the point of buying a hardtail to have less creaks?
    Haha fair enough. I guess I should have said PF30 or sliding dropouts.

  21. #4646
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Thats a 30mm diameter by 134mm long crank spindle.
    Your frame is a 73mm wide, BSA Threaded bottom bracket (1.375” (35mm) diameter shell, 24tpi pitch thread).

    Yes that crank can work, you need a RaceFace BSA Cinch 30mm Bottom Bracket or other brand.
    The issue is a 30mm spindle in a threaded 35mm hole only allows for very small bearings, they are are prone to wearing very fast.
    That size frame and BB shell was designed for a traditional 24mm crank spindle.
    Huh? The bearings sit outside of the shell on a BSA BB, so the threaded portion doesn't have any impact on the diameter of bearing they can use. And it dates back to LONG before 24mm spindles.

    BB92 was designed for 24mm spindles, and kinda sucks.

  22. #4647
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I think you're overstating the weight difference between aluminum and steel. Good quality steel isn't all that much heavier than aluminum, but it definitely gives a smoother ride. There's a reason almost every high end hardtail is either carbon or steel - I can't think of a high end aluminum hardtail. But unlike carbon, decent quality steel hardtails can be had for reasonable prices.
    Yeah, this. Cheap steel is really heavy (and doesn't ride great). Good steel is pretty competitive with aluminum, weight wise, and rides a lot better.

  23. #4648
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Isn't part of the point of buying a hardtail to have less creaks?
    The point of buying an AM hardtail is to have the next new hotness. The amount of hardtail on Pinkbike lately has been hilarious. I swear they are pushing it on purpose. The riders have spoken!

    The funny thing it is kinda organic. Fastfred...who has no business to be on a hardtail anymore was adamant he needed one like two years ago. Nostalgic old guy syndrome maybe?

    ****Still have my my old race bikes from 2007 so I'm not knocking hardtails****

  24. #4649
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    to be quite honest i have never seen the point in an all mountain HT when I already own a good enduro bike and there are already not enough hooks in the shed for the rest of the quiver
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #4650
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    On 2.4 tires at appropriate pressures I question how much anyone is going to notice a difference in frame material.

    I want a new hardtail for XC racing. It'd be an orbea alma plus a short travel dropper. 68 deg hta and a little longer and lower than, say, an fsi or something and pretty different from my Kona King Kahuna which is just horrible to descend on now that I'm used to the hei hei. I still raced it a couple weeks ago though because the course had a lot of climbing and not much trail. And I ride it when it's not very nice out or I'm going to be on a lot of road or mellow trails. It was great on a "gravel' ride we did last summer.

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