Results 6,326 to 6,350 of 13303
Thread: Ask the experts
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10-20-2021, 09:26 AM #6326
Unless you're going to swap out the Yari's Motion Control damper ASAP, I'd suggest skipping any fork with MC. The Charger damper (any version) is much much better. I found the MC damper harsh no matter what I did with air pressure and tokens.
FWIW the Revelation is the cheaper version of the Pike, and the Yari is the cheaper Lyrik. A friend has an OEM Revelation with a Charger damper, but that's the only one I've seen like that.
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10-20-2021, 09:32 AM #6327
Experts: anyone know what the cone wrench sizes are for Shimano through axle hubs? I believe they use traditional cup and cone type bearings, but none of my cone wrenches are big enough. I'd like to repack the hubs over winter.
This is for SLX centerlock hubs, front is boost, rear is super boost.
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10-20-2021, 10:37 AM #6328
^ 22mm for cone wrench and and 22mm for the outer nut.
The narrow end is 17mm
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...M7110-4606.pdf
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10-20-2021, 10:39 AM #6329
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10-20-2021, 10:41 AM #6330
I had to reread this a few times to understand what you're getting at.
Did you point out the clunk to the shop when you dropped it off with one of the goals to fix it? Or did you assume the service you got would take care of it?
Should they have noticed the clunk after a full rebuild and said something... sure. But if it wasn't lined out as a goal I would say you go back pretty civilwww.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
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10-20-2021, 11:08 AM #6331
Been meaning to ask this one for a while:
Is there a method or trick to getting your bars perfectly perpendicular to your front wheel after putting a stem or fork back on? Or do even pro mechanics just eyeball it six different ways and call it good?
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10-20-2021, 11:16 AM #6332
Why they never made (or successfully marketed) a keyed stem/steer tube interface is beyond me. I do think I saw 1 or 2 over the years, though, but poorly executed.
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10-20-2021, 11:18 AM #6333
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10-20-2021, 11:23 AM #6334
Would make pressing the steerer into the crown a more difficult and low-tolerance process, maybe?
Yeah, I usually go with one eyeball and try to align the bottom edge of the bar to the front edge of the fork crowns. I still feel like I spend way to much time agonizing over it.
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10-20-2021, 11:25 AM #6335
Ask the experts
Re: straight bars. I get the customer to stand over the bike and tell them to line up the bars, and then I tighten them down. Everyone’s view and perception is different. If it looks straight to them it’s good to me. (Are you sure that looks straight to you? Okay then)
For my own bike I look down from above, and site the back of the bars with the top of the fork crown.
I find that easier that lining it up with the wheel/tire.
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10-20-2021, 11:25 AM #6336
It's about the same as eyeballing the angle of your brake levers. And seatpost.
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10-20-2021, 11:31 AM #6337
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10-20-2021, 11:55 AM #6338
Not the level of the saddle (I use a level for that) but side to side.
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10-20-2021, 12:13 PM #6339Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
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- 31,085
I eyeball the extension of the stem to be paralell with the front wheel, so its easier with a long road stem, less easy with a short modern enduro bike stem
I use a level to set the seat angle, YMMV but my crotch likes the seat slightly nose highLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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10-20-2021, 12:13 PM #6340
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10-20-2021, 12:34 PM #6341
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10-20-2021, 12:40 PM #6342
Down a rabbit-hole…
https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listc...hreadid=205203Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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10-20-2021, 12:52 PM #6343
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10-20-2021, 12:59 PM #6344
I dropped bike off at shop requesting fork service among other services, then called back the same day saying that the specific ask from the fork service was the top out issue which I failed to mention when I dropped it off.
Picked it up from a different mechanic and forgot to check the top out as I was distracted pointing out some other items
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10-20-2021, 01:33 PM #6345
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10-21-2021, 04:22 PM #6346
Another simple Q for the experts: I need a replacement chainring for a Race Face cinch crankset, 1X direct mount chainring. It's on an 11-spd bike with boost spacing. Does Race Face make different chainrings for boost vs non boost, like SRAM?
I'm leaning towards the steel Race Face chainring for longevity.
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10-21-2021, 04:56 PM #6347
^ RaceFace only makes their direct mount Cinch rings with a 51mm chainline. This is good for boost. Most of the the aftermarket rings list 52mm as an ideal chainline.
Here is a good explanation from OneUpComponents
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10-21-2021, 05:28 PM #6348
OK, well, that changes things if you were specific to diagnosing and potentially fixing a problem.
At both of the shops I go to they always call during diagnostics on things like this because it's not 'just' a fork service.....
Anyhow, I'd call and say I asked for this to be addressed, you guys had it all apart once, etc...www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
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10-21-2021, 06:09 PM #6349
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10-22-2021, 10:26 AM #6350Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Central VT
- Posts
- 4,808
Need some insight from bike shop people about a hub warranty......
In 2020 I bought a custom wheelset from Colorado Cyclist.com - Hope hubs on Race Face rims. Back in May, the rim cracks around the spoke nipple and Race Face replaces the rim under warranty but it was backordered for months so I went to the local shop and had them lace up the Hope hub with a new WTB rim. The RF rim eventually arrives so I keep it as a spare.
A couple months later the Microspline freehub that came with said Hope hub cracks. I can't find one in stock so I swap the Microspline freehub and cassette with XD ones I already had.
Fast forward a couple more months and the Hope hub fails (the notched ring that the pawls hook into started slipping inside the hub). Hope says contact the place you bought it from so Colorado Cyclist tells me to send the wheel and hub back. They just emailed me and are doubting that the hub I sent them is the one I bought from them due to a new rim and different freehub.
Besides having dogshit luck with the wheel.....am I screwed here? I have documentation and pictures for broken rim and freehub. Can they deny my hub warranty because I had a new rim laced up and replaced the freehub? I don't think I'm in the wrong here and have a hunch they might tell me I'm SOL.
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