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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #6326
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    I have an Emonda with the same seatmast design. Its side clamping style definitely needs to fit the profile of the rails. I have the carbon specific clamp for my S-Works Romin, and it's a way different shape. Clamping down hard on oval carbon rails with the round profile clamp will crush them and, of course, YER GUNNA DIE!

    Saddle clamps that support the rails from below and clamp from above can be used with carbon rails without concern.

    The Reverb appears to have a side clamp that can move up and down to accommodate oval rails and has a separate screw for tilt. Very clever. It seems like it should work with the saddle in question, but I agree that the photos don't look right.
    @mall walker: naturally I did not read the ownerís manual at all, whilst putting my Mad One together. I only consulted the online directions when the carbon rails just did not look right in the stock clamp (like you!).

    Listen to your instincts and get the last word from the factory, before risking expensive parts and/or your tender arse.

  2. #6327
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    Rockshox Recon (2018 model) tops-out with clunk every time you lift up hard on handlebars .i.e. doing a jump or wheelie, but works well otherwise.

    Took the kids bike in for some overhaul and ordered the suspension service which was $100 plus $16 in parts for the dust seal. I called the shop same day I dropped it off as I recalled my kids main complaint was the top out and mentioned that.

    Picked bike up today and notice the rear brake which I asked them to bleed was still squishy and that was the main reason I asked for it to be bled. They were able to fix that on the spot by burping it, but I didn't really check the fork top out issue specifically but saw that it was operating well otherwise with new oil and dust seals.

    Do I need to take it back and make heads roll or is that a hard thing to diagnose / fix for the $100 service charge. Or do I throw the whole thing in a dumpster and buy the kid a Zeb or 38? To be fair they also replaced a dropper post / cable with no service charge.

    I've tried slowing rebound and cycling the fork to maybe get the correct negative pressure???

  3. #6328
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    Building up a steel hardtail (karate monkey) for trail / singletrack bikepacking duty. I've been pretty out of the loop on suspension these days. What's a reliable 130-140mm fork that isn't too rediculously expensive? My FS bike has a fox 34 that is decent but I struggle a bit with small bump compliance as a lighter rider.

  4. #6329
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    Rockshox is a bit better for small bump compliance with lighter riders. A Yari might be a good choice for a budget plush fork or a more basic version of the Pike.

    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    Building up a steel hardtail (karate monkey) for trail / singletrack bikepacking duty. I've been pretty out of the loop on suspension these days. What's a reliable 130-140mm fork that isn't too rediculously expensive? My FS bike has a fox 34 that is decent but I struggle a bit with small bump compliance as a lighter rider.

  5. #6330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Rockshox is a bit better for small bump compliance with lighter riders. A Yari might be a good choice for a budget plush fork or a more basic version of the Pike.
    Unless you're going to swap out the Yari's Motion Control damper ASAP, I'd suggest skipping any fork with MC. The Charger damper (any version) is much much better. I found the MC damper harsh no matter what I did with air pressure and tokens.

    FWIW the Revelation is the cheaper version of the Pike, and the Yari is the cheaper Lyrik. A friend has an OEM Revelation with a Charger damper, but that's the only one I've seen like that.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #6331
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    Experts: anyone know what the cone wrench sizes are for Shimano through axle hubs? I believe they use traditional cup and cone type bearings, but none of my cone wrenches are big enough. I'd like to repack the hubs over winter.

    This is for SLX centerlock hubs, front is boost, rear is super boost.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #6332
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    ^ 22mm for cone wrench and and 22mm for the outer nut.
    The narrow end is 17mm
    https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...M7110-4606.pdf

  8. #6333
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    Noticed this sidewall bubble on a 0-mile Maxxis Aggressor EXO this morning. Am I going to die? No levers used when mounting so seems to be a manufacturing defect.

  9. #6334
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    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    Rockshox Recon (2018 model) tops-out with clunk every time you lift up hard on handlebars .i.e. doing a jump or wheelie, but works well otherwise.

    Took the kids bike in for some overhaul and ordered the suspension service which was $100 plus $16 in parts for the dust seal. I called the shop same day I dropped it off as I recalled my kids main complaint was the top out and mentioned that.

    Picked bike up today and notice the rear brake which I asked them to bleed was still squishy and that was the main reason I asked for it to be bled. They were able to fix that on the spot by burping it, but I didn't really check the fork top out issue specifically but saw that it was operating well otherwise with new oil and dust seals.

    Do I need to take it back and make heads roll or is that a hard thing to diagnose / fix for the $100 service charge. Or do I throw the whole thing in a dumpster and buy the kid a Zeb or 38? To be fair they also replaced a dropper post / cable with no service charge.

    I've tried slowing rebound and cycling the fork to maybe get the correct negative pressure???
    I had to reread this a few times to understand what you're getting at.

    Did you point out the clunk to the shop when you dropped it off with one of the goals to fix it? Or did you assume the service you got would take care of it?

    Should they have noticed the clunk after a full rebuild and said something... sure. But if it wasn't lined out as a goal I would say you go back pretty civil
    www.dpsskis.com
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  10. #6335
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    Been meaning to ask this one for a while:

    Is there a method or trick to getting your bars perfectly perpendicular to your front wheel after putting a stem or fork back on? Or do even pro mechanics just eyeball it six different ways and call it good?

  11. #6336
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    Why they never made (or successfully marketed) a keyed stem/steer tube interface is beyond me. I do think I saw 1 or 2 over the years, though, but poorly executed.

  12. #6337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Been meaning to ask this one for a while:

    Is there a method or trick to getting your bars perfectly perpendicular to your front wheel after putting a stem or fork back on? Or do even pro mechanics just eyeball it six different ways and call it good?
    Iím interested in this one too. Iíve seen some various methods but nothing that works better than eyeball.

    Using a single eyeball, and where you line of sight everything can help.

  13. #6338
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Why they never made (or successfully marketed) a keyed stem/steer tube interface is beyond me. I do think I saw 1 or 2 over the years, though, but poorly executed.
    Would make pressing the steerer into the crown a more difficult and low-tolerance process, maybe?

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    Using a single eyeball, and where you line of sight everything can help.
    Yeah, I usually go with one eyeball and try to align the bottom edge of the bar to the front edge of the fork crowns. I still feel like I spend way to much time agonizing over it.

  14. #6339
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    Ask the experts

    Re: straight bars. I get the customer to stand over the bike and tell them to line up the bars, and then I tighten them down. Everyoneís view and perception is different. If it looks straight to them itís good to me. (Are you sure that looks straight to you? Okay then)
    For my own bike I look down from above, and site the back of the bars with the top of the fork crown.
    I find that easier that lining it up with the wheel/tire.

  15. #6340
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    It's about the same as eyeballing the angle of your brake levers. And seatpost.

  16. #6341
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    It's about the same as eyeballing the angle of your brake levers. And seatpost.
    What kind of Luddite does not have a tool to measure brake lever angle, or seat angle.
    #toolnerd

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  17. #6342
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    Not the level of the saddle (I use a level for that) but side to side.

  18. #6343
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    I eyeball the extension of the stem to be paralell with the front wheel, so its easier with a long road stem, less easy with a short modern enduro bike stem

    I use a level to set the seat angle, YMMV but my crotch likes the seat slightly nose high
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #6344
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    What kind of Luddite does not have a tool to measure brake lever angle, or seat angle.
    #toolnerd

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    Don’t even need to be a Luddite
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  20. #6345
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    Donít even need to be a Luddite
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    Its ironic that you posted a broken link.

  21. #6346
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    Forum Cross Pollinator

  22. #6347
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Its ironic that you posted a broken link.
    Thatís on me. Luddite living in the computer age.

  23. #6348
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    I had to reread this a few times to understand what you're getting at.

    Did you point out the clunk to the shop when you dropped it off with one of the goals to fix it? Or did you assume the service you got would take care of it?

    Should they have noticed the clunk after a full rebuild and said something... sure. But if it wasn't lined out as a goal I would say you go back pretty civil
    I dropped bike off at shop requesting fork service among other services, then called back the same day saying that the specific ask from the fork service was the top out issue which I failed to mention when I dropped it off.

    Picked it up from a different mechanic and forgot to check the top out as I was distracted pointing out some other items

  24. #6349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    ^ 22mm for cone wrench and and 22mm for the outer nut.
    The narrow end is 17mm
    https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...M7110-4606.pdf
    Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  25. #6350
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    Another simple Q for the experts: I need a replacement chainring for a Race Face cinch crankset, 1X direct mount chainring. It's on an 11-spd bike with boost spacing. Does Race Face make different chainrings for boost vs non boost, like SRAM?

    I'm leaning towards the steel Race Face chainring for longevity.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

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