Ask the experts

**Fred Pabst** · 03-24-2021, 04:38 PM

Instead of getting a new bike, considering converting my 2016 Hightower from 27.5+ to 29er. The bike has the Rockshox Pike fork. Just want to make sure of the front hub specs for that. Would it be the 15mm x 110mm boost?

**HAB** · 03-24-2021, 05:14 PM

Originally Posted by Fred Pabst

Instead of getting a new bike, considering converting my 2016 Hightower from 27.5+ to 29er. The bike has the Rockshox Pike fork. Just want to make sure of the front hub specs for that. Would it be the 15mm x 110mm boost?

Should be. They did make some 15x100 non-boost Pikes too, but IIRC those don't clear a plus size tire. Take the front wheel off and measure the hub width to be sure though.

**jackstraw** · 03-24-2021, 05:14 PM

Originally Posted by Fred Pabst

Instead of getting a new bike, considering converting my 2016 Hightower from 27.5+ to 29er. The bike has the Rockshox Pike fork. Just want to make sure of the front hub specs for that. Would it be the 15mm x 110mm boost?

The '16 Hightower came in both boost and non boost depending on timing...so I was told. First batches non boost.

**Fred Pabst** · 03-24-2021, 06:36 PM

Originally Posted by jackstraw

The '16 Hightower came in both boost and non boost depending on timing...so I was told. First batches non boost.

Thanks. Should have looked closer but found what I was looking for. I was looking for some markings on the hubs. Low an behold there is a sticker on one of the fork legs saying 15 x 110mm.

**mall walker** · 03-24-2021, 09:28 PM

does anyone have boost 29” wheelsets in stock? XD. flexible with price but preferring non-dentist stuff (dt swiss e1900 spline etc)

i25-i35 is fine

**g_man80** · 03-24-2021, 09:55 PM

How about these? https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/63322907

Keep an eye on KSL. I’ve seen a handful of gently used take-off wheelsets the last two months.

**mall walker** · 03-24-2021, 10:24 PM

ah damn, thanks. reached out to seller. I hadn’t thought of KSL but will go there. thank you!

**Benneke10** · 03-24-2021, 10:33 PM

MTBEU Gear Swap facebook group is a good place for WTB, lots of dentists over there happy to get rid of take-off parts

**radam** · 03-25-2021, 06:28 AM

Originally Posted by mall walker

does anyone have boost 29” wheelsets in stock? XD. flexible with price but preferring non-dentist stuff (dt swiss e1900 spline etc)

i25-i35 is fine

I've got an Arch MK3 wheelset, pm me for details

**XXX-er** · 03-25-2021, 11:27 AM

Originally Posted by toast2266

But if I maintain my engine poorly and it wears out prematurely, then I've effectively totaled a car that's worth many thousands of dollars. Replacing a worn out engine isn't financially viable.

If I maintain my bike chain poorly and it wears out prematurely, I replace it. I spend $50 on a new chain a little bit sooner than I would otherwise. I'm more than happy to waste ~$10 to avoid having to spend a couple hours fucking around with my drivetrain every month.

There was a time, many years ago, when chain lubes weren't great and there was a substantial and tangible benefit to hot waxing. But lubes have gotten a lot better - they lubricate better, they run cleaner, they last longer, and they take less fussing to reap the benefits. Hot waxing these days is unnecessarily anachronistic.

But to be fair, it's still better than jizzing in little cups and posting pictures of it on the internet.

I'm the poster who is not for hot wax, try to keep up

jizzing into your mom was actulay more better

**XXX-er** · 03-25-2021, 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by grrrmountainman

are you just jerking off onto pieces of cardboard and posting pics?? baby batter lube... new product launch coming soon...

not until I got tired of your wife

**Dumbest Known Time** · 03-25-2021, 03:00 PM

This thread is really nailing the second step of the 'pick a lube and be a dick about it' process.

**Rossymcg** · 03-27-2021, 12:38 AM

Originally Posted by Roxtar

I understand your point.
But it takes me about 3 minutes to change out my chain before a ride if I have to.
Doing the actual waxing takes me almost no time (It just sits in the crockpot, getting lubed). I put it in at my convenience.
That's my point. It really takes nothing, once set up.

it actually does though doesn't it its not even comparable to dripping on a lube.
Rock and roll left by my bike drip on to chain whilst spinning pedals back wards (10 seconds). If driving to trail leave on till there and wipe off (10 seconds) or if riding from home wipe off after locking up garage(10 seconds)
I NEVER have to specifically clean my drive chain with rock and roll lube.
taking you chainnoff takes longer than the whole drip process

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**Roxtar** · 03-27-2021, 09:06 AM

Originally Posted by Rossymcg

I NEVER have to specifically clean my drive chain with rock and roll lube.
taking you chainnoff takes longer than the whole drip process

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Never have to or just never do?
Rock n Roll used to be my lube choice and probably still would be if I didn't see such a huge difference between that and waxing.
When I would clean my chain, off the bike, the solvent left would be black and gritty from the gunk inside the chain.
Granted, if I never actually cleaned it, I wouldn't have seen it either.

Dude, seriously, if you don't want to wax? Don't. If you don't want to clean your chain? Don't. Yes, all maintenance takes time and 100% your choice. Just don't be a tool and claim that good maintenance procedures are useless. That's just stupid. You don't HAVE 2b a JONG forever but it is your choice.

**cydwhit** · 03-27-2021, 04:03 PM

Pretty obscure request here, but I remember seeing someone making a product that helped SRAM brakes have a more aggressive "bite-y" lever feel like Shimano brakes. I believe it was a pretty simple, small, affordable plastic part, made in Bellingham. Probably wrote it down at the time, but I've long forgotten where I saw it now.

Now I'm trying to find a set, and I can't really track down anything. Any ideas?

**El Chupacabra** · 03-27-2021, 05:54 PM

Originally Posted by cydwhit

Pretty obscure request here, but I remember seeing someone making a product that helped SRAM brakes have a more aggressive "bite-y" lever feel like Shimano brakes. I believe it was a pretty simple, small, affordable plastic part, made in Bellingham. Probably wrote it down at the time, but I've long forgotten where I saw it now.

Now I'm trying to find a set, and I can't really track down anything. Any ideas?

**Whiteroom_Guardian** · 03-27-2021, 08:01 PM

So yeah, waxed chains are what's up.

Mini crock pot (pro tip: use a heat gun to get the initial melt otherwise I would have had to leave it for like 6 hours to get it to melt) + 4:1 paraffin to bee's wax + fine powdered molybdenum. Super consistent and quiet for 20 mile pretty dusty MTB ride today.

**jamal** · 03-27-2021, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by cydwhit

Pretty obscure request here, but I remember seeing someone making a product that helped SRAM brakes have a more aggressive "bite-y" lever feel like Shimano brakes. I believe it was a pretty simple, small, affordable plastic part, made in Bellingham. Probably wrote it down at the time, but I've long forgotten where I saw it now.

Now I'm trying to find a set, and I can't really track down anything. Any ideas?

Which model brakes? I just ordered some guide rsc levers for my hei hei, which came with guide R. They've been bled twice and gotten new pads since I got it in august and they're still really mediocre- weak, with a lot of pull required. In contrast, the rscs on my hardtail are old and beat to shit and have much better engagement and power. I think the "swing link" deal, and the bearings instead of bushings, and being able to dial the contact adjust right up so they engage more quickly is all the difference.

I was really close to ordering shimano xt or xtr 4-pots last fall but I missed that boat, and G2s don't seem readily available either, so we'll just try to polish these turds I guess.

**climberevan** · 03-27-2021, 09:42 PM

Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

So yeah, waxed chains are what's up.

Mini crock pot (pro tip: use a heat gun to get the initial melt otherwise I would have had to leave it for like 6 hours to get it to melt) + 4:1 paraffin to bee's wax + fine powdered molybdenum. Super consistent and quiet for 20 mile pretty dusty MTB ride today.

20 miles? Pretty much any lube will last that long. Get back to us when you don't have to re-lube after 40+ miles of dust.

(Spoiler: the No Toil moto lube goes at least 60 miles.)

**Whiteroom_Guardian** · 03-28-2021, 09:35 AM

Originally Posted by climberevan

20 miles? Pretty much any lube will last that long. Get back to us when you don't have to re-lube after 40+ miles of dust.

(Spoiler: the No Toil moto lube goes at least 60 miles.)

The last shift was just as good as the first. Literally not a single speck of anything on the chain. Including the few miles of super dusty BML access road with the bike on the rack on the back of the truck.

**Dantheman** · 03-28-2021, 12:49 PM

Do Specialized rear axles not just thread out from non-drive side? I'm getting AC's Stumpy de-tubed and while trying to unthread the rear axle I started become genuinely concerned that I was going to to break or strip something. I thought maybe it was left-threaded for some reason but it won't budge that way either. Got nothing from Google.

**VTskibum** · 03-28-2021, 01:07 PM

DTM my 19/20 Stumpy is totally normal thread non drive side.

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**Dantheman** · 03-28-2021, 01:16 PM

Well that is concerning. I am definitely turning it in the correct direction, and if I pull any harder it's going to to strip. The tool already feels a little looser than it first did.

**toast2266** · 03-28-2021, 02:11 PM

Originally Posted by Dantheman

Well that is concerning. I am definitely turning it in the correct direction, and if I pull any harder it's going to to strip. The tool already feels a little looser than it first did.

I vaguely recall my old demo having a pinch bolt on the drive side. None of the new specialized frames I've played with have that though - axle just unthreads like normal.

I'd bet you just have some corrosion in there. I'd throw some penetrating oil on it, let it sit overnight, then try again.

**jackstraw** · 03-28-2021, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by cydwhit

Pretty obscure request here, but I remember seeing someone making a product that helped SRAM brakes have a more aggressive "bite-y" lever feel like Shimano brakes. I believe it was a pretty simple, small, affordable plastic part, made in Bellingham. Probably wrote it down at the time, but I've long forgotten where I saw it now.

Now I'm trying to find a set, and I can't really track down anything. Any ideas?

The regular metal pads bite better than the organic, but still different than a shimano.