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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #351
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    My old mechanic told me Sram needed more stretch in their cable to make the 1:1 shift ratio less brutal to yank on. And that it makes Shimano shifters sloppy. I believed him because heís better at mechanic-ing than me.

    Bottom bracket spacing is annoying. Bottom bracket/crankset moving target standards are the devil. Currently waiting for an E13 crank puller to arrive in the mail so that I can actually work on my fucking new (used) bike. Retarded.


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  2. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Bottom bracket spacing is annoying. Bottom bracket/crankset moving target standards are the devil. Currently waiting for an E13 crank puller to arrive in the mail so that I can actually work on my fucking new (used) bike. Retarded.
    E13 should be shot for not designing that crank with a self extracting bolt but in.
    Those cranks come with the extracting tool, dude who sold you the bike should have included it. Sucks to have to wait on a $13 tool just to remove your cranks.

  3. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    My old mechanic told me Sram needed more stretch in their cable to make the 1:1 shift ratio less brutal to yank on. And that it makes Shimano shifters sloppy. I believed him because heís better at mechanic-ing than me.
    I'm calling bullshit on that. Bike cables stretching is a myth. They don't, and a .1mm difference doesn't change that fact.

  4. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I'm calling bullshit on that. Bike cables stretching is a myth. They don't, and a .1mm difference doesn't change that fact.
    New cables definitely stretch. If you prestrecht when installing (pull by hand, then adjust tension) it's noticeable.

    I don't think the difference between 1. 0 and 1.1 is significant for bike use, but who knows.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  5. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    New cables definitely stretch. If you prestrecht when installing (pull by hand, then adjust tension) it's noticeable.
    The cables don't stretch. They settle into the pinch bolts, the housing liner compresses, and the housing ends seat into the shifter / derailleur. All of which gives the impression of the cable getting longer, but the cable itself hasn't stretched at all.

  6. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    The cables don't stretch. They settle into the pinch bolts, the housing liner compresses, and the housing ends seat into the shifter / derailleur. All of which gives the impression of the cable getting longer, but the cable itself hasn't stretched at all.
    Like chain stretch? I think that is my most hated saying in the bike industry.

  7. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Like chain stretch? I think that is my most hated saying in the bike industry.
    Well, at least a used chain does actually get longer (unlike cables). But yeah, "stretch" isn't a very accurate descriptor for the bushings wearing.

  8. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Well, at least a used chain does actually get longer (unlike cables). But yeah, "stretch" isn't a very accurate descriptor for the bushings wearing.
    Ok, dumb question. If the chain gets longer, why isnít that stretch? Whatís more accurate to whatís happening?

  9. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcski View Post
    Ok, dumb question. If the chain gets longer, why isnít that stretch? Whatís more accurate to whatís happening?
    None of the parts are actually stretching. What happens is, the pins that hold the links together and the inside of the narrow plate pairs that they ride on are wearing, so that those interfaces get sloppier and the chain gets longer overall.

    Is calling that something different that stretch a bit pedantic? For sure.

  10. #360
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    Ok thanks. Never gave it much thought. I guess the tork that would be needed to actually stretch the link would be unlikely for a human to do w a peddle stroke if i think about. Thx. But ya, definitely pedantic lol

  11. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    E13 should be shot for not designing that crank with a self extracting bolt but in.
    Those cranks come with the extracting tool, dude who sold you the bike should have included it. Sucks to have to wait on a $13 tool just to remove your cranks.
    They didn't come with the cranks that were installed on complete builds as far as I know. At least none of my buddies who have them had ever seen one.
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  12. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post

    Is calling that something different that stretch a bit pedantic? For sure.
    Well, that’s a bit of a stretch.
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  13. #363
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    Inelastic elongation is not stretch!

    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  14. #364
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    Is that like an erection?
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  15. #365
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    I actually bought a heavier spring a while ago for my dhx 2 and my fat ass, so not sure why this stirring in my head, but I can’t seem to truly make sense of this guide:
    https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=672

    Specifically for the SLS springs, reading the first two charts on the page. My show is 230x65. So from the first chart it seems like with a 230 e2e, you could go with the spring that is as long as the 6.1” TLG. But that is for shocks that have 3” of travel. 65mm stroke (which I assume is what they are referring to in the “travel”) is about 2.56” which would point me towards the one with 2.75 inches or less and TLG of 5.5”- which makes me think the spring I have is too short?

    Yeah generally a bit confused.

    can someone explain it to me like I’m 8?

    Edit: not to mention that the part numbers on fox site and ones most retailers have are different, and many out of stock, but I digress.
    Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?

    fuck that noise.

    gmen.

  16. #366
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    I'm no expert on coil shocks, but have kinda been going through the same shit recently, so here goes:

    1. Fox springs made for 65mm stroke will fit in your 65mm stroke shock. That will always be the case. There will be a lot of thread exposed.
    2. It's hard to find overall spring length when buying springs. You'd think this shit would be more standardized, but it's not really.
    3. Changing springs to figure out your ideal spring rate gets annoying and expensive. Especially if they're orange, or yellow, or white. Or titanium.
    4. To offset #3, Fox has done you a solid with their chart. If someone's got a spring that's made for a longer stroke shock (up to 76mm stroke) it'll still work. But there will barely be any threads showing. Maybe you can save some coin digging through parts bins and classifieds while you figure out your spring rate.
    5. The shorter spring will be lighter. Because less material. But thanks to the magical linear properties of coil shocks, a longer spring with the same spring rate will still feel exactly the same.
    6. You can also use springs from other companies since Fox shocks have a smaller diameter than others. But you'll need to buy a $15 adapter to get it to thread on right. Case in point, you could get a Cane Creek Progressive Spring. Warning: They're heavy fuckers.
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  17. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    I'm no expert on coil shocks, but have kinda been going through the same shit recently, so here goes:

    1. Fox springs made for 65mm stroke will fit in your 65mm stroke shock. That will always be the case. There will be a lot of thread exposed.
    2. It's hard to find overall spring length when buying springs. You'd think this shit would be more standardized, but it's not really.
    3. Changing springs to figure out your ideal spring rate gets annoying and expensive. Especially if they're orange, or yellow, or white. Or titanium.
    4. To offset #3, Fox has done you a solid with their chart. If someone's got a spring that's made for a longer stroke shock (up to 76mm stroke) it'll still work. But there will barely be any threads showing. Maybe you can save some coin digging through parts bins and classifieds while you figure out your spring rate.
    5. The shorter spring will be lighter. Because less material. But thanks to the magical linear properties of coil shocks, a longer spring with the same spring rate will still feel exactly the same.
    6. You can also use springs from other companies since Fox shocks have a smaller diameter than others. But you'll need to buy a $15 adapter to get it to thread on right. Case in point, you could get a Cane Creek Progressive Spring. Warning: They're heavy fuckers.
    Thanks man, glad I’m not alone.

    And point 5 clears up a worry of mine that somehow the 74mm I have was wrong for my 65 stroke shock when there is a 67mm spring out there.
    Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?

    fuck that noise.

    gmen.

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